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Oh guys I really need your help This is my third day trafficking goulet website Friend of mine is coming to visit UK and she has agreed to bring me a bottle... Please give me your advice...you know things I don't know I want Noodler's ink for 1.1stub nib and flex pen. Good shading ink. The only one I own so far is Apache Sunset. My daily inks are usually turquoise (Lamy, Sheaffer) I like green inks, but I own way too many (Bad Green Gator?) My first choice would be BSIAR (is it too similar to Diamine Tyrian Purple?) Wouldn't mind girly pink (don't have one yet) I'm not too big on blue inks, but I would consider 54th Mass HELP
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http://www.fp-ink.info/colorcard/503.png Diamine Salamander is pretty close: http://www.fp-ink.info/colorcard/135.png Light resistance data will follow sometime later (images will be replaced)
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Brian Goulet just made an awesome video on "Back to School", a guide for using fountain pens in school. It's something that I've been looking for and this summer I just got into fountain pens. The video is very informative. http://www.inknouveau.com/2014/08/fp101-back-to-school-shopping.html One thing I want to point out, everyone says that if you write in cursive it will improve your memory because you have to concentrate more on what you're writing, I disagree with this. I write everything in cursive and I have done so for years now, so writing in cursive is effortless for me, no it's not gorgeous, but I do not concentrate very hard on this. The concept is that you have to be concentrating harder, the study was also conducted with people who don't normally write in cursive. So if you're like me and write in cursive all the time, switch to writing in print, I find I concentrate harder when doing so and I remember things better when I switch to print because I'm not used to forming the letters in print. I could be entirely wrong here so feel free to correct me if I'm wrong I don't mind. =) Also, today I picked up four cheap Composition notebooks from Wal-Mart. Three were made in Brazil, the other was made in Vietnam.....Holy....Cow. I am shocked at the differences. The one from Vietnam threhad more tooth and wasn't smooth, it was more absorbent and feathered badly. The three from Brazil feathered VERY little, and there was hardly any bleed through. Like none. A few spots here and there from where I started the stroke or ended it. The paper was very smooth, more tooth than Rhodia, but still very smooth. The pens stayed truer to their marked size. I wrote with three pens. 1. Monteverde Impressa with Fine nib, the ink was Diamine Ancient Copper 2. Noodler's Ahab with flex nib, the ink was Diamine Ancient Copper 3. Pilot Metropolitan with M nib, the ink was Diamine Grey The Grey had the overall least amount of bleed through. These notebooks were on sale for $.50! I did find several ones made in Brazil that had more tooth to them, I didn't purchase them so I don't know how they perform, the three from Brazil that I bought had very smooth paper. So be aware, it seems as if even the ones from Brazil aren't made as consistently as one might think.
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Indexed in fp-ink.info: http://www.fp-ink.info/colorcard/559.png Light fastness and nibcreep do take a while for measurement so they will be added here (picture replaced) later.
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I'm looking for a very saturated, very permanent black ink for regular use. I've got a sample of Noodler's Bad Black Moccasin that I've been enjoying--it is indeed very black, and I like the way it feels with the pens and papers I've tried it with--almost slippery. But I hear that Heart of Darkness is even blacker, and that's really appealing to me. Folks who have tried both: how do they compare?
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Inky T O D - Premium Inks - Is It All About The Bottle? Or Is The Ink Worth The Extra Money?
amberleadavis posted a topic in Inky Thoughts
So, the cost for Noodler's, Diamine and Toucan inks are downright inexpensive compared to Caran d' Ache and retail on Pilot Iroshizuku. Of course, we all search for deals or spend money with our favorite retailers. The question from Top Pen was should he spend the extra money on CdA? Let's hear from you inky buyers. (Because we all know Amber doesn't need a reason to buy ink). -
What is Noodler's up to these days? I miss hearing about Nathan's latest ink and fountain pen experiments. Have I missed any news? It seems quiet. And I'm bummed I can't get the large bottles of Noodler's ink any more. eta: I seem to remember there was going to be a Noodler's music nib... did that ever materialize?
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Don't forget to take my flex pen poll and win a brand new, high performance flex pen! So I was on my quest for the perfect blue when I heard about a vibrant, waterproof, true blue. I jumped at the chance to try it. So far, my favorite pen to use with this ink is a Parker 21, and I just adore it with plain, basic cursive italic. Here are some comparison photos of some comparable blues on a few papers: World's cheapest notebook paper. (I bought 200 sheets of this stuff for about 50¢ in 1998. It actually accepts inks pretty well, so while it's the cheapest paper I've ever bought, and is see-through, I'm beginning to think it's not THAT bad.) Staples Bagasse World's Cheapest Copy Paper
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I have been looking for a certain blue (pilot Juice Aqua Blue)and decided to ask you all for some ideas. I am attempting to attach a copy of the color I found online, but this is my first attempt at posting here on FPN. I at one time had $80 worth of blue samples in my cart from gouletpens.com. The first blue I tried out turned out not to be as blue as the color swatch appeared to be, that was Noodler's Navajo Turquoise. Then I tried Chesterfield ink's Zircon ink from xfountainpens.com, it's a little darker and ever so slightly green leaning. While both colors are gorgeous they don't match what I'm looking for. I've decided I'm looking for a bright, saturated, pure medium blue. By pure I mean not leaning to far to purple or green. So I bit the bullet and have ordered a few samples from the Goulets. The list as follows: Pilot Iroshizuku Kon-Peki, Asa-Gao and Tsuyu-Kusa(which is the one I'm hoping is the closest), Diamine Royal Blue and Washable Blue, Waterman Serenity Blue, Noodler's Liberty's Elysium, Pelikan Edelstein Topaz, and Private Reserve Tropical Blue. I'm planning on doing a test page to compare them all, but I was wondering if anyone had any other ideas. I believe the Pilot inks should get the task done since it is after all a Pilot pen, but even within Pilot they have two different model pens (Juice and Hi-Tec-C) with two different colors both being called Aqua Blue, sooooooo... Any ideas? Oh, and ideas where to buy inks that the Goulet's don't carry. I know they don't have Montblanc for example and I either go to them or Amazon for purchasing ideas. Thank you in advance.
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Hello everyone, I am Bode505 and I am from the state of New Mexico in the USA. Currently I live in South Korea as an English teacher. First fountain pens were cheesy calligraphy fountain pens, dip pens kind of got me into fountain pens. I already have a small collection going but I finally pulled the trigger on becoming an FPN member because I had been messing with my Konrad for a while trying to make it into a pen that could flex easily like a vintage pen. I am aware I said the magic word to get thrashed on this thread but I would like to present my findings before I am hiding under a rock for my words. After many attempts the best I have gotten to work for me (without weird hard starts and 1 million railroads) is using a Hunt 56 (its not exactly flush but after heat setting the ebonite it sits in there well enough to do well I feel I should also mention I think when setting the ebonite feed that I may have also heated up the plastic barrel a bit with the near boiling water as it screws in to the cap with a little resistance now which it didn't have before) and my Noodler's Konrad I bought from the Goulet company a few months ago. I liked the pen but we all know when the feed isn't set well they can be frustrating so I destroyed a few nibs trying this but I will put up a picture of what I came up with. Bare in mind you can write pretty quick with this setup (sorry for my (bleep) handwriting is 2:00 am here in Korea). Anyway here is my picture without further nonsense. Before you ask the paper in the sample is G. Lalo it was the nearest pad I had to me to write on tonight and that railroading happened as I was going pretty quick so I am overall pleased with the results anyway. I thought it was important to show that railroading does occur but it has to be under pretty big flexes and only during demo like that so far for me not under normal writing flexing on each down stroke of the pen. Question is: What sub-forum should this go into? 2.What do you guys think about it? Honest feedback is appreciated Hope you guys like and appreciate it, -Bode505
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I just ordered a bottle of Bad Blue Heron from pure pens.co.uk I wanted the wonderful Prime of the Commons however this is out of stock and they cannot get a hold of Noodlers to get more of it. I have a 2ml sample of this ink and love it. Compared to Tsuki-yo it is really a good colour. I hope the Bad Blue Heron has the same effect on me! Your thoughts anyone?
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Does Whiteness Of The Whale Matter For Achieving Color Mixes?
vossad01 posted a topic in Inky Thoughts
I bought Noodler's Whiteness of the Whale (WotW) because I was not sure whether it would make a difference in trying to mix colors, but read some indications suggesting it would. Below are the results of an experiment to try to answer the question. Strathmore Writing (25% cotton, natural white, wove, 24lb): Georgia Pacific Multipurpose Paper (20 lb, bright white, Walmart): Unless otherwise indicated the writing is from a dipped Jinhao X750. I learned more definitively the things I did wrong in the above and things I should have done differently than actually answering the question. From the above my current inclination is that the answer is either "inconclusive" or "no". The inks definitely behave very differently: the WotW mix is "chalky" and does not shade as much and ink diluted with water to that degree has too much surface tension to be consistent when dipping as I was. With respect to color I am not sure there is any difference that cannot be explained by the different behavior of the ink. There is some slight variation in color (more visible in the scan I think), but it is such that I am not sure I can say it is significant given the other sources or error in my method. I think I will need to actually load them in a FP and write with them for a time to see if I learn anything more. I suspect one of the big behavior differences to be when the ink starts to dry on the nib, I know the water dilution will darken; but I suspect that will be less the case with the WotW mix. Though I think the WotW mix would dry-out/clog more quickly in the same situation. Currently I am using a pen loaded with the 1:20 Distilled water mixture after adding some Photo Flo to bring the surface tension down to a usable level. I maybe will make another post on that after a time because amazingly the ink is rather usable after being diluted 20x (!) and the color looks to me to be very similar to Diamine Beau Blue from this Month's ink drop (probably a little less red than Beau Blue). I thought i was going to try this experiment with a few inks to show the various results, but after not finding anything interesting here and knowing how much time this took probably won't bother. The WotW mix definitely looks cooler though, especially if you will be putting it in a demonstrator: Hopefully this is helpful to someone. I would be interested in knowing whether others have experience that corroborates or refutes my findings. -
Wanting An Inexpensive 1.1Mm Italic To Take Noodlers Bulletproof Ink
Jumpmonkey posted a topic in Of Nibs & Tines
I'd like a 1.1mm Italic nib pen to run some Bad Black Mockasin. I'll use it for document signing and other such stuff, so nothing ridiculous looking. $50 absolute tops What are your recommendations? Please no Kaweco's! Thanks, Adam -
Here's a saturated blue that's sadly not unique enough to strike my fancy. While its behavior on copy paper leaves me disappointed, it's very good on Rhodia, if a bit unremarkable. Being the sheen junkie that I am I'd rather find a comparable color with lots of sheen from Diamine than spend the money on Ottoman Azure. Still, there are far worse inks you could get. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/18/fdnx.jpg Please remember to vote on this ink in the poll!
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Think of Co-Dependent Ink Enablers. Hi, I'm Kettle. I'd like to introduce you to my buddies. My fellow FPNers have been kind enough to indulge me in this latest Crazy-Review by Two. I'll let you see the damage. http://sheismylawyer.com/She_Thinks_In_Ink/2014-Inklings/slides/2014-Ink_507.jpg http://sheismylawyer.com/She_Thinks_In_Ink/2014-Inklings/slides/2014-Ink_507b.jpg
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I'm looking for a wet flowing medium blue If you have used Noodler's Blue Eel can you help me with these questions: 1. Is it 'as blue' as Baystate Blue? From the goulet colour swatch it looks even more vibrant! 2. Does it flow well? Is it wet, in between or dry? 3. Any odd characteristics?
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Just posted this review on my blog - figured someone here might want to read it too. :-) I guess I’ve been on a bit of a Noodler’s kick lately, but I feel like I’m not really doing it right if I don’t at least try some of the classic Noodler’s inks. Thus, here for your enjoyment today is Black Swan in English Roses, also known as BSiER: And, because my handwriting is a bit tough to read on this one, here is what I wrote: This ink is very interesting. Goes down a deep red, but dries to more of a rusty brown. Makes me think of writing with a pen full of blood (sorry if that’s too morbid)… No noticeable feathering or bleeding, though there is show-through because it is a bit on the thin side. This ink does have some shading, though I’m not sure that I’m seeing the “black swan” effect. Still, a very nice color and it seems dark enough to use in a professional setting while still having a touch of color. This ink claims to be at least partially bullet proof, so I will have to test the water resistance, but barring that and no cleaning problems, this would definitely be and ink I would recommend if you like the color. :-) This was a fun ink. My first one in the Vac 700 and I went through almost the full fill before I got bored and emptied it out. One bummer was that it practically looked black in the barrel, and I like to use inks that look fancy in demonstrators. But it cleaned out easily and had a good amount of water resistance, so I would say it was a very “user friendly” ink. Overall, I would recommend this ink if you like the color and want something with a bit of water resistance and otherwise good behavior. It wasn’t exactly a life changing ink, but I could see it being very nice if you are using it in a flex pen, which, alas, I do not have yet. This ink was purchased with my own money and I am in no way being compensated for this review. All opinions expressed above are my own and you are free to disagree with them if you like.
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Well here I am - a true sign that I'm a goner is when I join a forum. I am new to fps. I love to draw and have discovered that lovely inks are available to fp users. My mom sent me an old AW Classic Impressions that writes beautifully with the old ink cartridge that came with it, but it's ugly as hell. A splotchy black and green body. Somehow a gaudy Jinhao 3000 Tiger ended up on my Amazon wish list and my sister sent it to me. Writes like a dream. It glides on the paper without a sound - I really like that. But it is encased in metal and very heavy. Slightly difficult to hold. And ugly. Meanwhile I ordered a Noodler's Ahab from Goulet Pens and some ink samples. The Ahab is a great pen as well except for the scratchiness on the paper, which is a minor complaint. Ink flow is just about perfect. I'm loving these forums so far. Must research my next purchase of course. I'd like something sleek and whisper quiet. And then I'd like 10 of them, each with their own ink.... yeah....
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A scanned review of Noodlers Bad Belted Kingfisher, including a torture test with hot water and bleach. I was able to get some color to spread, but the original line remained on the page until the paper started coming apart with the bleach. The scanner doesn't capture all of it, but even the Q-Tip with water managed to chew up the surface of the paper to get the smear I did. Pretty neat stuff. The review did scan "color correct" and in looking at this on a color calibrated monitor (I do a bit of photo work, and calibration is critical) I can say that the color here is true to what is on the paper. Please feel free to comment or ask any questions. Noodlers Bad Belted Kingfisher
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So, I've had my Ahab for a good few months, got it all tuned and set up nicely and I've been having fun with it. I hadn't used it for a week or so until today, but it started almost straight away. I thought I'd check out how much ink was left, so I unscrewed the barrel and it took the plunger unit with it! Luckily I had it nib up, so I contained most of the ink. Turns out the threads on the plunger unit are stripped. Any suggestions?
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Hey guys. I am planning to write a letter in a few days with a Noodler's black ink. Unfortunately, the regular black that I had my heart set on just isn't going to be available locally in time because of weather and shipping complications. I might have to buy X-Feather instead, and though I've read about it extensively, I'd just like to know if anyone has tried it on laid paper, which is known to be highly absorbent or "thirsty". So far, I know that X-Feather: has long dry timesis somehow more viscous than most inks (but this applies to Noodler's inks in general?)is drier, less lubricated and spreads less than HOD and Bad Black Moccasin (I prefer thinner lines as long as there's no skipping)I use a pen that varies wildly in its flow, but most people call it a dry pen (Nemosine Singularity with 0.6 mm stub). X-Feather is surely not useful for smooth papers like Clairefontaine, but since laid paper is more or less the exact opposite in characteristics, I am theorizing that it could be suitable for my needs based on how the qualities of the ink and paper match up. In contrast, some people have had trouble using fine nibs, stubs, or dry inks on G. Lalo Vergé de France because of its texture, and maybe other reasons. I'm in a bit of a rush so I hope someone can vouch for this combination of materials. If it comes down to it, I could still buy a few samples of the regular black instead of a new bottle of X-Feather, but I would be under a lot of stress if the absorbency of the paper or the limited amount of ink caused me to run out before I'm finished writing. Also, if anyone has used it, about how many hours should one allocate for drying to prevent smearing? I understand that laid paper should make drying less of an issue, but this is X-Feather, after all. Thank you.
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http://i.imgur.com/PBkXXAk.jpg Haven't logged on here for so long I forgot my username here was "GlennPen" not "PenGlenn". Interchangeable I suppose? EDIT: Also, I realized I should've put "Subjective" not "Objective". It's morning man. Anyway, a transcription for the "Objective Writing Experience" "You know on the Goulet site it says this ink is not 'Fast Drying', but I feel comfortable dragging my hand all over the paper. Feathering is non-existing unless you stick the nib to the wet paper (hence 'Oops'). Flow is wet but not so much, very smooth writing experience." I like this ink, and it's my first Green ink too. http://i.imgur.com/WED60Lf.jpg Behold, the sequel! I tested the ink again (except for it's water-resistance properties) on copier paper to address the ink's supposed feathering problem, well, I don't see it guys! Maybe yellow Legal pad paper or Wal-Mart leaf paper. Subjective Writing Experience transcript: "Perhaps not as smooth experience as on a fountain pen friendly paper like Rhodia but nonetheless the ink is behaving the same way; wet, quick-to-dry, and mostly likely the paper will be destroyed by water before the ink is." Also, I wiped the nib over with a napkin to see if there is nib creep for my Lamy Safari 1.1 nib; there is none.
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A quick water-fastness test of 17 inks on a sheet of Rhodia dotpad paper. They all dried for at least a week prior to when I conducted the test. I rinsed the sheet in warm water, soaked it for half an hour, and then pressed it under a stack of magazines to dry. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv56/k4p2tog/InkWaterTest1copy.jpg De Atramentis Aubergine (4) Diamine: Hope Pink (2) Marine (1) Peach Haze (1) Syrah (3) Noodler's: 54th Massachusetts (5) Antietam (3) Bad Green Gator (5) Baystate Concord Grape (4.5) Black Swan In Australian Roses (4) Green Marine (4) Kung Te-Cheng (5) Liberty's Elysium (3.5) Pelikan Edelstein Ruby (2) Pilot Iroshizuku: Ama-Iro (2) Yama-Budo (3) Private Reserve Tropical Blue (1) Notes: I was having feed issues with the pen with which I wrote the Bad Green Gator sample, which is why it is lighter than normal. The way the waterproof Baystate Blue and the more fugitive Baystate Red combine produces a decent imitation of mimeograph printing. I've given a numerical rating based on remaining legibility. 5 = Unchanged 4 = Changes to color but still entirely readable 3 = Readable, but it is getting hard 2 = If you stand on your head and squint, you just might make something out 1 = All gone!
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A beautiful 1930's plunger vacuum-fill Sheaffer Balance has just come into my possession. Woo! It is my first vintage pen, and I want to take proper care of it. I'm trying to decide what ink to put in it. I have: De Atramentis Aubergine Diamine Oxblood Noodler's Black Swan In Australian Roses Noodler's Green Marine Pilot Iroshizuku Ku-Jaku What do you think of the safety of these inks in this pen? Should I avoid the Noodler's? Do I need to get different ink altogether?
