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  1. amberleadavis

    Co-Razy-Views - Fiesta Wines You Say?

    Think of Co-Dependent Ink Enablers. Hi, I'm Kettle. I'd like to introduce you to my buddies. My fellow FPNers have been kind enough to indulge me in this latest Crazy-Review by Two. I'll let you see the damage. http://sheismylawyer.com/She_Thinks_In_Ink/2014-Inklings/slides/2014-Ink_507.jpg http://sheismylawyer.com/She_Thinks_In_Ink/2014-Inklings/slides/2014-Ink_507b.jpg
  2. I'm looking for a wet flowing medium blue If you have used Noodler's Blue Eel can you help me with these questions: 1. Is it 'as blue' as Baystate Blue? From the goulet colour swatch it looks even more vibrant! 2. Does it flow well? Is it wet, in between or dry? 3. Any odd characteristics?
  3. Just posted this review on my blog - figured someone here might want to read it too. :-) I guess I’ve been on a bit of a Noodler’s kick lately, but I feel like I’m not really doing it right if I don’t at least try some of the classic Noodler’s inks. Thus, here for your enjoyment today is Black Swan in English Roses, also known as BSiER: And, because my handwriting is a bit tough to read on this one, here is what I wrote: This ink is very interesting. Goes down a deep red, but dries to more of a rusty brown. Makes me think of writing with a pen full of blood (sorry if that’s too morbid)… No noticeable feathering or bleeding, though there is show-through because it is a bit on the thin side. This ink does have some shading, though I’m not sure that I’m seeing the “black swan” effect. Still, a very nice color and it seems dark enough to use in a professional setting while still having a touch of color. This ink claims to be at least partially bullet proof, so I will have to test the water resistance, but barring that and no cleaning problems, this would definitely be and ink I would recommend if you like the color. :-) This was a fun ink. My first one in the Vac 700 and I went through almost the full fill before I got bored and emptied it out. One bummer was that it practically looked black in the barrel, and I like to use inks that look fancy in demonstrators. But it cleaned out easily and had a good amount of water resistance, so I would say it was a very “user friendly” ink. Overall, I would recommend this ink if you like the color and want something with a bit of water resistance and otherwise good behavior. It wasn’t exactly a life changing ink, but I could see it being very nice if you are using it in a flex pen, which, alas, I do not have yet. This ink was purchased with my own money and I am in no way being compensated for this review. All opinions expressed above are my own and you are free to disagree with them if you like.
  4. Miss Cooley

    Hello From North Carolina

    Well here I am - a true sign that I'm a goner is when I join a forum. I am new to fps. I love to draw and have discovered that lovely inks are available to fp users. My mom sent me an old AW Classic Impressions that writes beautifully with the old ink cartridge that came with it, but it's ugly as hell. A splotchy black and green body. Somehow a gaudy Jinhao 3000 Tiger ended up on my Amazon wish list and my sister sent it to me. Writes like a dream. It glides on the paper without a sound - I really like that. But it is encased in metal and very heavy. Slightly difficult to hold. And ugly. Meanwhile I ordered a Noodler's Ahab from Goulet Pens and some ink samples. The Ahab is a great pen as well except for the scratchiness on the paper, which is a minor complaint. Ink flow is just about perfect. I'm loving these forums so far. Must research my next purchase of course. I'd like something sleek and whisper quiet. And then I'd like 10 of them, each with their own ink.... yeah....
  5. A scanned review of Noodlers Bad Belted Kingfisher, including a torture test with hot water and bleach. I was able to get some color to spread, but the original line remained on the page until the paper started coming apart with the bleach. The scanner doesn't capture all of it, but even the Q-Tip with water managed to chew up the surface of the paper to get the smear I did. Pretty neat stuff. The review did scan "color correct" and in looking at this on a color calibrated monitor (I do a bit of photo work, and calibration is critical) I can say that the color here is true to what is on the paper. Please feel free to comment or ask any questions. Noodlers Bad Belted Kingfisher
  6. Tom Traubert

    Bizarre Ahab Problem

    So, I've had my Ahab for a good few months, got it all tuned and set up nicely and I've been having fun with it. I hadn't used it for a week or so until today, but it started almost straight away. I thought I'd check out how much ink was left, so I unscrewed the barrel and it took the plunger unit with it! Luckily I had it nib up, so I contained most of the ink. Turns out the threads on the plunger unit are stripped. Any suggestions?
  7. Hey guys. I am planning to write a letter in a few days with a Noodler's black ink. Unfortunately, the regular black that I had my heart set on just isn't going to be available locally in time because of weather and shipping complications. I might have to buy X-Feather instead, and though I've read about it extensively, I'd just like to know if anyone has tried it on laid paper, which is known to be highly absorbent or "thirsty". So far, I know that X-Feather: has long dry timesis somehow more viscous than most inks (but this applies to Noodler's inks in general?)is drier, less lubricated and spreads less than HOD and Bad Black Moccasin (I prefer thinner lines as long as there's no skipping)I use a pen that varies wildly in its flow, but most people call it a dry pen (Nemosine Singularity with 0.6 mm stub). X-Feather is surely not useful for smooth papers like Clairefontaine, but since laid paper is more or less the exact opposite in characteristics, I am theorizing that it could be suitable for my needs based on how the qualities of the ink and paper match up. In contrast, some people have had trouble using fine nibs, stubs, or dry inks on G. Lalo Vergé de France because of its texture, and maybe other reasons. I'm in a bit of a rush so I hope someone can vouch for this combination of materials. If it comes down to it, I could still buy a few samples of the regular black instead of a new bottle of X-Feather, but I would be under a lot of stress if the absorbency of the paper or the limited amount of ink caused me to run out before I'm finished writing. Also, if anyone has used it, about how many hours should one allocate for drying to prevent smearing? I understand that laid paper should make drying less of an issue, but this is X-Feather, after all. Thank you.
  8. http://i.imgur.com/PBkXXAk.jpg Haven't logged on here for so long I forgot my username here was "GlennPen" not "PenGlenn". Interchangeable I suppose? EDIT: Also, I realized I should've put "Subjective" not "Objective". It's morning man. Anyway, a transcription for the "Objective Writing Experience" "You know on the Goulet site it says this ink is not 'Fast Drying', but I feel comfortable dragging my hand all over the paper. Feathering is non-existing unless you stick the nib to the wet paper (hence 'Oops'). Flow is wet but not so much, very smooth writing experience." I like this ink, and it's my first Green ink too. http://i.imgur.com/WED60Lf.jpg Behold, the sequel! I tested the ink again (except for it's water-resistance properties) on copier paper to address the ink's supposed feathering problem, well, I don't see it guys! Maybe yellow Legal pad paper or Wal-Mart leaf paper. Subjective Writing Experience transcript: "Perhaps not as smooth experience as on a fountain pen friendly paper like Rhodia but nonetheless the ink is behaving the same way; wet, quick-to-dry, and mostly likely the paper will be destroyed by water before the ink is." Also, I wiped the nib over with a napkin to see if there is nib creep for my Lamy Safari 1.1 nib; there is none.
  9. Prolix

    17 Inks Water Tested

    A quick water-fastness test of 17 inks on a sheet of Rhodia dotpad paper. They all dried for at least a week prior to when I conducted the test. I rinsed the sheet in warm water, soaked it for half an hour, and then pressed it under a stack of magazines to dry. http://i669.photobucket.com/albums/vv56/k4p2tog/InkWaterTest1copy.jpg De Atramentis Aubergine (4) Diamine: Hope Pink (2) Marine (1) Peach Haze (1) Syrah (3) Noodler's: 54th Massachusetts (5) Antietam (3) Bad Green Gator (5) Baystate Concord Grape (4.5) Black Swan In Australian Roses (4) Green Marine (4) Kung Te-Cheng (5) Liberty's Elysium (3.5) Pelikan Edelstein Ruby (2) Pilot Iroshizuku: Ama-Iro (2) Yama-Budo (3) Private Reserve Tropical Blue (1) Notes: I was having feed issues with the pen with which I wrote the Bad Green Gator sample, which is why it is lighter than normal. The way the waterproof Baystate Blue and the more fugitive Baystate Red combine produces a decent imitation of mimeograph printing. I've given a numerical rating based on remaining legibility. 5 = Unchanged 4 = Changes to color but still entirely readable 3 = Readable, but it is getting hard 2 = If you stand on your head and squint, you just might make something out 1 = All gone!
  10. A beautiful 1930's plunger vacuum-fill Sheaffer Balance has just come into my possession. Woo! It is my first vintage pen, and I want to take proper care of it. I'm trying to decide what ink to put in it. I have: De Atramentis Aubergine Diamine Oxblood Noodler's Black Swan In Australian Roses Noodler's Green Marine Pilot Iroshizuku Ku-Jaku What do you think of the safety of these inks in this pen? Should I avoid the Noodler's? Do I need to get different ink altogether?
  11. Uncial

    Noodler's Apache Sunset

    Will Noodler's Apache Sunset permanently stain my Waterman Kultur if I use it as an eyedropper? The Kultur is a clear version.
  12. Howdy, So I have a pen that I've flushed out many many times now (I got it clogged up and sacless) but even so, Apache sunset ends up turning brown in it. The ink that was dried in it when I got it was blue black, so I'm not sure why it's turning the colour it is. I've flushed it multiple times and each time, the day after the ink has turned brownish, like a burnt Sienna / coffee colour. I havn't done a complete flush with ammonia yet as I don't think we have any, but I've done warm soapy water flushes and left the nib soaking for a few days. Has anyone else had this ink change colour inside a pen or is it just that I'm likely to have to do an ammonia flush? Is it possible that it's something in the sac (it was a black colour) is slowly seeping out and into the ink?
  13. http://sheismylawyer.com/She_Thinks_In_Ink/Inklings/slides/2013-Ink_847.jpg http://sheismylawyer.com/She_Thinks_In_Ink/Inklings/slides/2013-Ink_852.jpg
  14. yogalarva

    Heart Of Shin-Ryoku

    My mother bought me a beautiful bottle of Iroshizuku Shin-Ryoku for Christmas, and while I love the color (a very vibrant green), it just wasn’t getting much use because vibrant colors don’t have a good place in my academic writing. Plus, it’s not at all water resistant. So, I decided to try mixing it with a bit of Noodler’s Heart of Darkness, and this is what emerged: It’s a 4:1 mix of green/black and the result is a dark green that exhibits lots of shading, a pretty wet flow, and reasonably fast dry times. Oh, and water resistance! That’s the result of a thorough soaking. The green spreads a bit depending on the paper (how absorbent/coated it is) but the black component is still perfectly readable. I’ve been using this ink for a few weeks now on my homework and lately in my Seven Seas journaland it is behaving wonderfully. I do find that sometimes I get bits of writing that are lighter than others, but this is usually alleviated by inverting the pen to make sure the ink inside is well mixed. Paper used is M by Staples arc refill, and all opinions expressed above are completely my own. :-)
  15. I received a Noodler's Ahab for Christmas and it writes beautifully. It did from the moment I inked it up. However, I don't get as much flex out of it as I expected. I find that when I really push it, it tends to railroad. Is this something that will improve with use? I get no dry starts or skipping when I'm not flexing so I don't think the nib is bad at all. Maybe I just need practice...? I tried to search for others topics about the Ahab but there were just too many threads to weed through so I apologize if this topic has been beaten to death.
  16. Hi everyone, a few days ago I received an order from the Goulet Pen Company (wow, fast service, really well packaged and loved the lollypop, couldn't be happier!). I had ordered a couple of pen, a TWSBI Vac 700 and a Noodler's Ahab, and a couple of bottles of Noodler's ink, Empire Red and Ganges Blue. The pens are great, the Ahab is inked up with the Ganges Blue and the TWSBI with Empire Red. These inks are beautiful, I really love them, the colours are fantastic, especially the Empire Red - a really nice shade. I'm new to Noodler's, but I will be ordering more soon I'm sure. My question is: having read some negative reviews of Noodler's inks, I'm a little hesitant in using it in my 'expensive' pens, such as a Montblanc 149. I'd like to use them, as I really like them but I've seen horror stories about Noodler's inks completely ruining pens. Anyone have any experience of using these inks? What do you think?
  17. So there I was. I'd loaned my Ahab to a Martian who needed directions to the White House. He/she/they(?) sneezed, and the Noodlers flex nib dissolved. My pen was out of action! Interplanetary Crisis! Noodler's doesn't sell replacement flex nibs, at least not yet. I had a Noodler's regular fountain pen nib, free gift when I bought my pen. Taking my trusty Dremel, I set out to modify the regular nib to make it into a flex. Fortunately for the Solar System, it worked. In case you ever find yourself in a similar boat, here's what I did. 1) Extend slot of regular nib with Dremel cutoff wheel. 2) Apply Pterodactylus' Ease My Flex (EMF) Mod. 3) Adjust the tines; heat-set the feed if necessary. 4) Clean...and test. Details: 1) I made a jig to position the Dremel cutoff wheel on the nib. Ahab/Konrad nibs have an arc that matches a 1/4" bolt. I used a 1/4" wooden dowel about 1.5" long for the jig. I hand cut a slot in the dowel with a coping saw, trying to keep the slot in the middle of the dowel. Slot length is about 1/2 the diameter of the cutoff wheel. I clamped the dowel vertically in a vice, and ran down the slot with the cutoff wheel to enlarge the slot to fit the wheel. BE SURE TO WEAR A FACE SHIELD whenever using a cutoff wheel. These cutoff wheels can't take any twist, they will shatter. There will be some smoke as the wheel cuts/burns its way down dowel. Stop when the axle of the wheel reaches the top of the dowel. I clamped the nib in a vice, using the dowel and a popsickle stick to protect the nib. See photo. Note, the 2nd bit of dowel in the vice, to the right of the nib, is there to keep the vice jaws from cocking as I tightened the vice. I wanted to extend the slit to match the length of a Noodler flex nib's slit. I marked the approximate stop point on the nib with a black marker pen. I positioned the dowel slot over the center of the Concave side of the nib. By cutting from the concave side, the wheel will have less tendency to wander. Positioning the nib/dowel/vice took some fiddling. My goal was to start the wheel at about the 1/2 way point in the desired slot extention. The cutoff wheel diameter gets smaller as you use it on your projects. You'll have to match the size of your wheel to the middle of the desired slot, I can't give you any precise figures. My wheel was not quite new, so was a few mm smaller in diameter than a new wheel. Take light cuts, removing the wheel to check that the nib is not getting too hot. I dribbled water on the nib periodically, just to be safe. But the nib never felt hot to my fingers, even after the first (dry) cut. The wheel will cut on both sides of the slot since this is a "plunge" cut. I positioned the Dremel so that the wheel would try to climb up the nib; I never had a problem with climbing, though. I used a "medium" speed for the Dremel. After I got the slot length I wanted, I deburred with wetordry sandpaper, and a scraper (small screwdriver blade...the universal tool). Deburring took a while. 2)Once the slot was deburred, I applied the EMF mod. See his thread for details. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/240492-noodlers-ahab-ease-my-flex-mod/ 3) I had to adjust the tines, in/out and up/down and rotation. The slotting had spread the tines, and the EMF procedure had warped them a bit. I needed to use round-jaws needle-nose pliers to bend the tines parallel to the arc; this was to correct an "Inverted Grand Canyon slit" problem (Richard Binder terminalogy), probably caused by the slotting operation. Eventually I got the slit and tip looking ok. Richard Binder's Nib Smoothing Workshop notes (.pdf) is a great help in showing you what you need to see at the tip. The nib was not snug against the tip of the feed, so I heat-set the feed to the nib. Nathan Tardif uses a "Tiki oil candle" in his demonstration video. Ace Hardware had similar candles under the "Ultra Pure Liquid Candle" name (on a shelf next to lamp oil and tea candles). This was my first heat-set....I held the feed a little too long above the flame, and the feed started to smoke, oops. The fins expanded a bit, clearly suffering from the heat; but they still will hold ink, fortunately. 4) Clean and clean again with dish soap+ammonia. I also used rubbing alcohol to remove fingerprints & grease from the nib. Testing was long. Initially, the pen would not pass ink past the slot. The ink channel would dry up, under the slot, as I wrote. This drying was exacerbated by the wonderful flex of this nib - wide areas are Very wide, expending ink quickly. Pen would work fine if I covered the slot with a bit of masking tape. This would restore the wicking action needed to move ink past the slot to the slit. I tried various fillers to increase capillary action in the ink channel under the slot: brass wire, cotton threads, stainless steel wire. Cotton thread (from string) laid in the ink channel wetted the best, but flow was still slow. Eventually, repeated cleaning of the feed with a the soapy solution and a test-tube brush, got me back in business. The ink will flow through the ink channel without needing any capillary enhancers or masking tape lid. When I burned the feed, perhaps some of the combustion products were inhibiting ink flow? The pen writes fine now. I can't write at blazing speed, the feed can't keep up. However, for normal calligraphy writing speed, the new nib with slot works well. If I feel the need for speed, I'll just put a small bit of tape over the slot. If it was clear tape, no one would even know :-) Oh yes, Step 5) Always carry a Loaner Pencil in case you run into Martians. The photos: 1) Modified nib and original flex nib. 2) Jig and vice. Slot has been cut, deburring next. 3) Look, it writes! I diluted the ink to get more shading. A 50% dilution, not seen here, works better. Without dilution, my wet lines show no shading with this ink.
  18. So here it is: unlike the Ahab, on which I have given up for good, does the Konrad write? Even if left capped for 15 minutes, or, Heaven forbid, overnight?
  19. So i was curious which noodlers inks can be mixed with other brands. Just got a bottle of kon-peki (expensive!!!) And wanted to play with the color a bit. I tried mixing diamine poppy red with noodlers black. Worked well for a day then the next day it write just red... went to my vial i mixed them in and the inks had separated.... :-/ So anyone who knows.... can only non-bulletproof, non-baystate colors be mixed with other brands?!? Is it because of the chemical properties of those inks?! I have a whole lot of noodlers and it would be sad if i couldbt mix any of them and have them stay mixed. Is precipitate the right word for them separated?? I dont know all the words and abbreviations and acronyms for the inks like BBK for bad belted kingfisher everyone uses... Someone should have a thread of all the abbreviations for people that dont know.... Hint hint admins and moderators.... :-) Thabks in advance for the info!!
  20. NoodlersFan

    Ink Macro Photos

    Since making this video: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/256123-ink-dragon-comes-to-life/ i've become intrigued by pen and ink macro photography. Here are my first attempts at ink macro shots: http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3702/11020948564_53e79d2f3a_c.jpg Noodler's Dragon's Napalm http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3795/11020944153_5bc73f49d8_c.jpg Noodler's Dragon Catfish Pink http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7297/11020895024_73d9da31e9_c.jpg Noodler's Bluenose Bear http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3670/11020869134_3b8cdc61a7_c.jpg Noodler's Bluenose Bear 2 Nikon D5000, Nikon AF-S 105mm 2.8 micro with TC-17E II 1.7 x teleconverter
  21. Nate_Emmi

    Flexy Flexy Nibs!

    Flex nibs! I love them, the smooth wet writing, subtle line variation, the ability to bold lines into a great flourish! I know about Noodler's flex nibs, and I know Serwex from FPR makes them as well, but does anyone know any other companies that make flex or semi-flex nib pens? Also what does "#5 Flex nib" (from FPR) as opposed to "#6 Flex nib" (Noodler's)?
  22. When I first got into fountain pens, I bought ink because I liked the color, or (often) because I liked the philosophy behind the company that made it, (Mr. Tardiff is an individualist after my own heart.) however, I never would have guessed before I found this forum that there could ever, EVER be a fountain pen ink that could be called, for lack of a better term, "controversial". I suppose anything that arouses strong emotions might be worth getting into a tizzy for, and we pick colors because we like them, so I guess I shouldn't be too surprised, considering how strongly practically everyone feels about Baystate Blue. It's got to be the most vibrant, delightful color I own. Well, I'm tired of people ragging on Baystate Blue, so I did this dilution to show that it can be tamed, if you're having trouble with it. As I said, I love the color, but it feathers anywhere from ever-so-slightly to badly on my Clairefontaine (90gsm), Fabriano (85gsm), and Staples Bagasse (the stuff is practically see-through, but handles fountain pen ink well), as well as my hand-picked Norcom notebook material. However, I want to show you that by diluting it, you can make it perform splendidly. I got a sample of Éclat de Saphir a long while ago, and I've been using it in a Pilot Petit1, and from the moment I first saw it, I've been thinking "this looks just like a thinned out Baystate Blue", it doesn't have the vibrancy, but it does have excellent performance on cheap papers (most of what I use at work, sadly) so at last, I did a side by side comparison, and I'm quite happy. The paper I did this on came from a 50¢ Norcom notebook I pulled from Walmart. Good lord. Short of a napkin, it doesn't get much thinner/cheaper than this. Notes: This is not scientific, since I didn't perform these samples in the exact same pen, but the performance is highly comparable, I think. The tiny cutoff is some noodling I did with a few different blues. The "Baystate Blue thinned" is the thinned result. The paper is 90gsm Clairefontaine.
  23. So i was curious which noodlers inks can be mixed with other brands. Just got a bottle of kon-peki (expensive!!!) And wanted to play with the color a bit. I tried mixing diamine poppy red with noodlers black. Worked well for a day then the next day it write just red... went to my vial i mixed them in and the inks had separated.... :-/ So anyone who knows.... can only non-bulletproof, non-baystate colors be mixed with other brands?!? Is it because of the chemical properties of those inks?! I have a whole lot of noodlers and it would be sad if i couldbt mix any of them and have them stay mixed. Is precipitate the right word for them separated?? I dont know all the words and abbreviations and acronyms for the inks like BBK for bad belted kingfisher everyone uses... Someone should have a thread of all the abbreviations for people that dont know.... Hint hint admins and moderators.... :-) Thabks in advance for tge info!!
  24. Hey, guys! Just got a new Noodler's Konrad Acrylic flex pen today...it writes SUPER scratchy. I'm pretty new to fountain pens and all. What can I do to fix this issue?
  25. Edjelley

    Noodler's Dark Matter Review

    http://edjelley.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-fountain-pen-ink-review-12.jpg Noodler's Ink - Dark Matter Handwritten Review Pen: Levenger L-Tech Stealth, Medium Nib Ink: Noodler's Dark Matter Paper: Kyokuto FOB COOP Dot Grid - B5 It's astounding how I do not already own a bottle of this ink. It has to be my second favorite black ink out there, and I've gone through 3 samples already. This ink does some awesome grey to black shading that I absolutely love. It's dark, but not too dark, and could easily work as a go-to black ink. The dark grey elements in the ink make it unique, and give it some needed character, which is rare in a black ink. The name of the ink is also pretty cool. Here's a link to the story, definitely check it out. Another thing about the ink that makes it more interesting is that it's a reformulation of a vintage military issue ink. Most importantly, it looks and performs great. It's nice and smooth, and the flow in the Levenger L-Tech's medium nib is great. There's no way that I'm not buying a bottle when this sample runs dry, I'm hooked. Pros: Grey to black shading is awesomeGreat flowCool name / back storyCons: NONE.http://edjelley.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-fountain-pen-ink-review-1.jpg http://edjelley.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-fountain-pen-ink-review-2.jpg http://edjelley.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-fountain-pen-ink-review-3.jpg http://edjelley.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-fountain-pen-ink-review-4.jpg http://edjelley.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-fountain-pen-ink-review-5.jpg http://edjelley.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-fountain-pen-ink-review-6.jpg http://edjelley.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-fountain-pen-ink-review-7.jpg http://edjelley.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-fountain-pen-ink-review-8.jpg http://edjelley.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-fountain-pen-ink-review-9.jpg http://edjelley.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-fountain-pen-ink-review-10.jpg http://edjelley.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-fountain-pen-ink-review-11.jpg http://edjelley.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-fountain-pen-ink-review-12.jpg http://edjelley.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-fountain-pen-ink-review-13.jpg http://edjelley.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-fountain-pen-ink-review-14.jpg The original review, and more can be seen at: http://edjelley.com/2013/11/25/noodlers-dark-matter-ink-review/





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