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  1. I fit a Nikko G, a common Copperplate dip pen nib, into my Creeper. The advantage of the G is that it allows one to draw finer hairlines than the Noodler nib. Also the G can be used as a replacement nib if you damage the Noodler nib. You should have no trouble modifying the Nikko G nib if you are used to grinding Noodler nibs with a Dremel, for instance, see Pterodacylus' thread: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/240492-noodlers-ahab-ease-my-flex-mod/ ----------------- The procedure I used for modifying the Nikko G was to: 1) Narrow the body of the nib. 2) Reduce length of Nikko G to match the length of the Noodler's nib supplied with the Creeper. 3) Clean. Details (G=Nikko G nib, N=Noodler nib): 1) The G has a smaller diameter arc than the N. When placed on top of the feed, the extra arc perches the nib above the feed. This prevents insertion of both G and feed into the Creeper pen. By narrowing the body of the G, the height of the discrepancy is reduced enough to allow insertion. Having no experience with heat-setting a nib to an ebonite feed, I don't know if heat-setting would accomplish the same thing. Grind both sides of the G body; conveniently, the cuts in the side of the body, up near the breather hole, provide a guide for how much metal to remove. Remove metal from the cut all the way to the base. See photo. Hold the nib in your hand while grinding. Dip nib frequently in water to keep it cool (not only saves your fingers, but also preserves the temper of the metal). The grindstone does not care if the metal is wet. I put down a pad of newspaper on my workbench to catch grinding particles. If dampened, it will hold them and keep them from dispersing. I used the large cylindrical grind stone pictured. Due to the diameter of the stone, I ended up grinding off most of the small tab of metal on the tip-side of the cut; this does no harm, though it leaves a sharp barb, that will need to be deburred (to protect your fingers when you insert/remove the nib, and to keep cleaning tissues from snagging and leaving bits behind). I deburred all cuts using wetordry sandpaper. There will be slivers of metal left on the sides of the nib after grinding. Be careful when sanding. There will also be slivers on the damp newspaper. Metal workers know how important it is to deburr - In this case, not only to save your fingers, but also to keep the nib from scratching and gouging the feed and pen. 2) Hold the G up to the N, match tips, and mark the base end of the G to match the length of the N. The G is much longer than the N, and if it is not reduced in length, it will be impossible to screw the cap onto the pen. Also, if the length is not reduced, it will be hard to achieve the feed/tip distance necessary for good ink flow. I used a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut to length. The nib gets very hot very quickly when using the cutoff wheel, so take light cuts and dunk the nib in water frequently. Don't worry, if you forget, your fingers will remind you :-) I deburred with the conical grinding wheel and sandpaper, but you could deburr with just sandpaper. Round the corners a bit to keep them from digging into the feed or pen body. 3) Clean the nib with soapy water + ammonia to remove finger oils and any oil/grease from the grinding wheels and sandpaper. 4) Test fit: i) If the nib + feed won't enter the pen w/o excessive force, then you need to remove a bit more metal along the sides. ii) Check exposure of the nib: on my pen, if I measure more than 2.0 mm of nib metal exposed (from pen to tip), the screw-on cap will bottom on the tip. You can grind off more from the base if the nib sticks out too far. Or, you could wrap a couple threads on the pen with tape to stop the cap a couple turns early. Don't forget to debur between each test fitting. Benefits: 1. As you can see on the test sheet, the hairlines from the G are much narrower than the hairlines from the N. I can get narrow hairlines with the N if I float the pen over the paper, certainly. But the G makes achieving hairlines easier. Wide lines are also very easy to achieve. 2. Replacement nib for the Creeper, if ever necessary. 3. Feed not altered, so reinstallation of the Noodler nib easy. 4. Last, but not least, you will make our benefactor, Nathan Tardif, happy. He designed the pen to take other brands of nibs, and takes a deserved pride in his accomplishment. Negatives: 1) The Nikko G is plain steel, while the Noodler nib is stainless steel (tested with a magnet). I don't know how long the G will withstand rust. 2) Dip pen nibs are scratchy, compared to fountain pen nibs. The G may require a higher grade of paper than the N to avoid catching the point. I tested some Georgia-Pacific paper from Wal-Mart ("Standard Bright, Multipurpose, 20 pound", next grade up from their "Basic") and had no trouble with the G. <Incidentally, Bay State Blue, diluted 50% with distilled water, showed much less feathering on this paper than when I wrote on it with full strength ink.> The demo paper in the photo, using Waterman ink, is a copy paper of unknown origin (my wife picks up recycling from various locations around Bozeman). On a vendor's site, the Noodler pen write-up was somewhat dismissive of the pen due to thick hairlines. With the G on your pen, you can scoff at that criticism :-)
  2. shawng

    Ink's Settling

    I had a bottle of Noodler, Rome Burning, sitting on my self which I had not touched for a while. Finally decided to put it in one of my pens but once i had the ink appeared to be very light. I then shook the bottle of ink and refilled the pen and found the ink returned to its original colour. Is this normal? Thanks.
  3. Alzyx

    Noodler Feed Fit

    I just received the two noodlers I ordered: a Achab and a Konrad - wonderful service by Goulet... Both perform very well with noodler ink (I tried golden brown in the ahab, and 54th massachusetts in the konrad), but after a day I noticed that the konrad is loosing a bit of ink, covering 5-6mm below the nib. Both were setup with the ebonite feed at ~ 7 fins of the feed visible. Do you know if it is normal, or should I close the feed more? And by the way, I cannot understand how a feed which is not completely pressed inside can prevent all the ink from gushing out... Still a mistery to me! Alessandro
  4. The Ghoul Caligrapher

    Black Inks (Anti Fade Jet Black)

    So have you guys have any recommendations about a really dark black ink that that doesn't fade out. I do regular caligraphy and I tried out diffrent bottled inks plopped them in my converters and tried them out. I tried a Cross black ink but the colour is terrible and goes gray. I heard about Noodlers black inks and how good they are but have yet to try it myself. So..WHAT DO YOU GUYS RECOMMEND?
  5. milanjuza

    Noodler's Dragon's Napalm

    This is the first ever Noodler’s ink I tried. I got a sample as a part of Goulet Pen’s Ink Drop. It is hardly the most mainstream colour, but it turns out it is not as unusual as it seemed to me when I was making the hand-written notes below. When I was writing the notes, I used an artificial lighting and as I later found out the ink appears quite different on daylight. Under a typical incandescent or even fluorescent light, Dragon’s Napalm it appears almost pinkish. However, in daylight its colour is much closer to, in my opinion somewhat more universally usable, peach or light orange. Dragon’s Napalm behaved well in my tests. There was almost no feathering at all and only a very small amount of bleed-through. The ink even shows some shading as can be seen from the high res pics. It’s rather unlikely I would use this ink on a daily basis as I find the colour to be a rather too bright and, as mentioned above, ‘too pink’ under artificial lighting. But in terms of key characteristics, reliability and ease of use there is very little to complain about. Plus, I really love the name! Paper: Rhodia A4 notebook (90 gsm), tested also on 80 gsm Rhodia, Paperchase and MoleskinePen: Montblanc Boheme M nibWater test: drops left on the paper for 1 minuteHigh res images are available on Flickr or on my blog.
  6. I loaded up one of my pens (Homo Sapien F) with Noodler's Sequoia Green recently and noticed on Rhodia paper, it takes about 30 minutes to dry (yes, minutes). Dabbing it with blotting paper helps a bit, but still takes an crazy amount of time to dry. On photo-copy paper it dries within seconds. Is this normal??? My other pens I have inked today have include a TWSBI 580 with Lamy Blue and a GVFC Classic with De Atramentis Puccini. Both these inks dry relatively quickly. I'm wondering if I have a bad batch or do some inks simply take forever to dry.





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