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Showing results for tags 'nibs'.
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After three years of using fountain pens, I'm searching high and low for my ideal pen. In order of importance, I'd like it to have 1) An EF/F (by Japanese standards, 0.35 or less) nib that is FIRM, like a nail, and smooth as can be. 2) A body size comparable to the Noodler's Konrad or Pelikan M200. 3) Ideally a Piston filling system, C/C is tolerable. 4) Less than $100USD. The Pelikan M200 is so very close, but it still writes a bit wide for me. I was looking at the Sailor Young Profit or Sailor 3776 Century, based off the reputation of the company. Any other pens that I should take a look at?
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Heyy Guys, Anyone here knows if these new cartridge Pelikan P200 & P205 can use the M200 or M400 nibs???? If so its very interesting . :D http://www.lacouronneducomte.nl/webstore/main/images/pelikan_classic_p205_vulpen_fountainpen.jpg http://www.lacouronneducomte.nl/webstore/main/images/pelikan_classic_p200_vulpen_fountainpen.jpg
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I apologize if this has been discussed before, I tried to search through the old threads about WE pens. In every thread about the Writers Edition pens, people talk about how one edition or another has a particularly smooth or soft or springy nib, but I can't find any details on differences between the WE nibs themselves apart from the designs on them. Are the nibs different in a way that would be consistent throughout any given edition (e.g. all properly tuned Poe nibs have X quality)? How much is dependent on the person using the pen? How do they compare to the 146es produced in their year? I would really appreciate any thoughts on WE nibs and the comparative differences between them. Of course, every time I see a WE praised, I think about adding one to my roster. I'm just trying to get a better sense of how they perform.
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Sailor 1911 Nib Designation - Does H-F Mean Medium-Fine Or Something Else?
sailorman posted a topic in Japan - Asia
What does the H-F designation mean? Sailor Fountain Pens have been my favorite daily writing instruments for the past several years since being introduced to them. I own several other very nice pens from popular makers, but I love the velvety smooth flow of Sailors - from high end to low end. One thing that I can't resolve though; both my favorite daily writer, a 1911 Standard, and my trophy pen, a large 1911 Demonstrator, have H-F on the nib, but they write very differently. The 1911 Standard is a 14K nib and the Demonstrator is a 21K nib. The Standard has a broader and smoother line than the Demonstrator, which has a much finer and "scratchier" line. I took the Demonstrator to Fahrney's pens in DC a couple of years ago to have it examined, and it was determined to be nicely aligned. They recommend that I write with it more. (Not sure what that would accomplish), but just wonder whether what could be the difference. -
To the more experienced FP enthusiasts. What is the most preferred nib size for average office chores, like signing checks, initialing /approving paperwork, journals, making short notes and todo's?
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Variation on a theme. I know there are "what ink" or "what pen" are you using threads here already, but I don't see a what nib are you using thread. I have 11 pens inked today and have the following: Four 1.1 mm stubs - steel nibs Four medium - 2 gold & 2 steel Two bold - 1 gold & 1 steel One fine stub - gold (vintage)
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Hello. Hope your well. I recently purchased my first Japanese made pen: Pilot Prera, demo "M" nib. I believe I'm now hooked. All of my other pens are American, German & French made. I'm now looking into TWSBI as my next but, but my research on this brand is a bit more difficult & confusing than the Prera hunt. I just need some simple answers. It seems the 500 series ( Diamond ?) and the VAC 700 series are the most popular. Are their size differences in the 500's and what is the difference between them and the VAC 700? I have seen that the 530 & 540 are being phased-out. Not sure. Does the VAC 700 offer any other options? Also, are their nibs in line w/ other Japanese makers: on the finer side? My Prera was bought w/ M nib = a US F nib. Is this so w/ TWSBI nibs? Sorry about so many questions. If there is a link that may help me, I would be happy to follow...If I've stated any facts that are false, please correct me. Also, I've spent quite a bit lately on all things writing related, so am looking for a good starter TWSBI at a reasonable price just to kick-the-tires so to speak. But, one that is as good a writer than the Prera. The nib is akin to mercury: liquid metal. That smooth...Again, thanks for your help and my best, LeRoy
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Hi, I recently bought an old Pelikan Graphos drafting/calligraphy set, I have little experience with cleaning nibs with old ink stuck to them so I thought I'd ask for some good advice first. What is the best way to clean Graphos nibs with old ink and and very light rust?
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Hi Everyone, Is anyone aware if there is a possibility for changing the nibs in a Sailor fountain pen? It seems they do not offer the possibility to purchase them from the company themselves. Is there anyone out there who knows of a seller, technician, etc. who can help in this matter? Regards
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It has proven quite hard to find individual nibs without feed online, such as Pelikan M400, M600, among others. Any suggestions please? A touch concerned about buying used online, but would be prepared to do it in a physical shop which is quite rare these days.
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I'm beginning to enjoy my flex pens (mainly Waterman's), but I was looking recently at Noodler's Ahab's. Now they are cheap, but I've also read the thread here that they are best when adjusted with the use of a dremel. Now I've been asking around and can't find anyone I know with a dremel, so if I bought an Ahab I would probably have to buy a dremel to make the adjustment. To do that, a cheap pen would end up being quite expensive. So, I started to search a little and saw the Pilot Namiki (for roughly the same price as a dremel and an Ahab!) and it said it had a flexible nib. I just wondered if anyone had any experience of the Pilot Namiki (saw it on Goulet pens website) and if it is just as 'stiff' to use as the Ahab. Essentially what I was looking for was a cheap pen that I could throw any ink into without worrying and sometimes I worry about certain inks in my vintage pens that have flex nibs.
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I have Ranga Model #4 with the "Bakul" finish that I'd love to love more than I currently do. The Wality nib and I have never gotten along. Has anybody ever yanked a nib on a Ranga or other ebonite Indian eyedropper. I'm considering putting a Goulet B in it. Thoughts?
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Flex nibs! I love them, the smooth wet writing, subtle line variation, the ability to bold lines into a great flourish! I know about Noodler's flex nibs, and I know Serwex from FPR makes them as well, but does anyone know any other companies that make flex or semi-flex nib pens? Also what does "#5 Flex nib" (from FPR) as opposed to "#6 Flex nib" (Noodler's)?
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Hello everyone, I'm setting my sights on some larger pens. I think too much computer gaming at a young age made my hand a little sensitive, so I'm looking for something that manufacturers seem to reserve for their more expensive models - a girthier section. So I'm looking at (I have some credit on JM's site, so I'm choosing from their stock): an Omas 360 a Sailor KOP a Pelikan M1000 a Danitrio Takumi or Hakkaku (and a Nakaya dorsal fin, maybe?) and the recently released Bexley's OC 2014, which I can't yet buy I had a chance to handle a 360, and I mean that, strictly: it was uninked. I found it very comfortable to hold. The Sailor and the Pelikan have the appeal of those unique, enormous nibs. I generally prefer lighter pens, and the Pelikan is on the heavier side of these pen selections, but excellent balance, if it's there, can make weight less of a factor. The Pilot Custom 823 and Nakaya Desk Pen feel just fine, despite weighing 20+ grams uncapped. Danitrio is relatively unfamiliar, but I like the shape of these two pens. I put a maybe on the Dorsal Fin because looking at the pictures it feels like the nib is just a little too small for the pen's proportions. Pictures dramatize everything, though. So I'm just looking for thoughts on these pens. My goal is to obtain a pen that's highly comfortable and has the kind of nib qualities you might (ideally) expect from one of a manufacturer's premium pens. I like butter. Thank you for reading
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Hi, I've recently become very interested in the thread "Stub of the Day"; however, I've noticed that most of the pens in that thread are vintage or high-end. For some time I've been searching for a stub-nibbed pen which is mid-range: up to £50. I'm not looking for an italic pen. I don't intend to do calligraphy. I just want something to add a little interest to my everyday writing. So please don't suggest a pen with an italic nib. Thanks.
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I'm using fountain pens for the last 2-3 years and only recently started buying new ones. I have four different pens: Kaweco sport, Waterman Hemisphere, Lamy Vista and a $0.5 Tesco fountain pen. Oddly enough, the last one outperforms all others, on any paper and any conditions. I would like to understand what's wrong and how things should be. I either got bad pens or have wrong expectations Here are my questions: Is it normal that a pen writes very differently depending on the paper? I.e. printing paper (100g/m2) vs lighter one (60g/m2) vs smoother/rougher? Example: Lamy becomes scratchy and writes really bad on printing paper. It's the same with Waterman. Kaweco/Tesco swallow anything I put them on though. Is the line volume and color supposed to be diluted on certain places? Example: only Tesco has a consistent line. Others have diluted parts here and there. Is it normal that a pen doesn't write in just slightly off angles? Example: Waterman is completely unusable if I rotate it a bit or increase the slant. Others are a bit better, but still Tesco allows the greatest flexibility.Thanks in any case - hope this makes sense!
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How has your nib prefer eve changed over the years? I used to buy fine and extra fine nibs exclusively until about seven years ago, when I started getting into broad and upwards. Now, my standard nib is is almost always going to be a stub or cursive italic, and wouldn't bother with anything smaller. I think larger nibs can be more demanding to use, but also help in maintaining a clear hand. Any thoughts?
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I finally have the funds to purchase the ever so lovely Edison beaumont. I have been wondering though how the extra fine nib is. If anyone can tell me their experience with the edison EF nibs (scratchiness, wetness, etc.) it would be very appreciated. Thanks, ~Phil
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A while ago I broke my 18k Sonnet nib very badly. I just got a loupe to look at it for the first time after the straightening and re-tipping Greg Minuskin did. I was amazed at how precise the tipping looked, and figured I would take some pictures to share.
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Hi all, I have a question of Richard binder's nibs. I wanted to buy a nib for my Pelikan m200, and was wondering if it would have extra flex and all if i were to buy a standard one from his website. Here is a screenshot of what I am looking at.
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Hi everyone, This is my very first post. I apologize if i ever make horrible grammatical mistakes, English is not my first language (i'm French). I've been reading topics on the FPN for several years but only decided to register today as i've just received my first vintage pen and i have a few questions about it. I checked the pen and all "fake guides" out there and i do think mine is authentic. However, the nib makes me question my conclusion. It's a medium nib (18K/Rhodium) from a pen that - i believe - was made in 2002 (it's marked "A."). The problem is... i find this nib to write much smaller than a newer Sonnet (23K plated) that i own that has a medium nib too. Here's a pic - i'm using the same ink in both: So, i was wondering if there were variations in Parker Sonnet nibs sizes? Or is it an indication that my pen is counterfeit? I also find that the nib on the vintage Sonnet is a little bit scratchy on paper compared to my newer one. Thank you for your help!
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I'm done studying for the week and was reading through random threads on here when I came across a thread with people yelling "NO" at the idea of using brown paper bags to do nib smoothing as it will likely do damage. It made me think of the no-name index cards from our campus bookstore I'd just been using for flashcards, in general a whole lot lately, that seem kind of rough in texture. Could this pose a risk similar to the brown paper bag? Basically, does poor quality paper pose a risk to nibs and their tipping? (I'm using a Parker Sonnet with an 18k medium nib.)
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Hello all, I've just hit a small windfall and am looking to purchase some Nakaya pens with the proceeds. Specifically I'm looking at getting three long cigar models in various finishes. What I need some help on is some reference to the character of Nakaya's fine nibs. Currently my first and only fountain pen is a Pilot Custom 823 with a fine nib that is mostly smooth with just a touch of feedback and moderate flow; and that is my frame of reference. I was hoping for some comparisons between the Pilot #15 f nib I have and the Nakaya fine, extra fine, and soft fine nibs. Any help would be most appreciated.
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I found my way here while looking for information about changing ones own nibs: whether that is not done; if do-able, how to do it properly; and so on I know, of course, that certain nibs are suitable only for certain pens. I am slowly growing a small collection of various brands of fountain pens, with a variety of nib sizes. I have plenty of ink for now. Having lost the physical ability to work, I am currently staying sane through the enjoyment I receive from fountain pens, writing to friends (on paper! sounds!), and attempting to improve my penmanship (or is that penpersonship), and dabbling in calligraphy. When I have time, I will explore the forums for the wealth of information no doubt therein contained. For now, hello all; and I hope I'm doing this correctly. Chadbear
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Are there any reliable ways to make cheap nibs last? Do they handle converters better than cartridges, and/or do they need more diligent maintenance?
