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Showing results for tags 'nibs'.
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I believe, this is how it should have been, right from the start Don't know if they will come back with a similar model eventually, but I love it and will hack some more, for sure. After examining the two housings carefully, I've decided against attempting to make a housing for the 9019 nib and feed, because I didn't feel that there would be enough material left to thread. So I chose a simple, quick and fully reversible hack, to fit the 9019 nib in the 9016 section, directly: teflon tape, used in pluming. I did also turn a small protection for the thin part of the feed, although, if using the screw in converter, I don't really think it's necessary. (and, of course I've glued the hole of the barrel - what were they thinking? - in, so that it may be eye-dropper-ed) If you would also like to attempt this, make sure you wind the tape in the direction of the threading, and go a bit thicker towards the front, where the collar of the housing would have been. And also cover the back of the feed, so that the converter has something soft and insulating to sit on. I really love it... how it looks, how it feels... a big nib on a medium sized pen... the straight, namiki-like nib... the size of a 146 with the nib of a 149, without the hustle of the piston... So, I hope this inspires you to also attempt this, should you have wondered if it's possible (I thing my next attempt will be using shrink tube, although it might not glide so smoothly on the threads, as teflon does) I just love inexpensive, hack-able pens! 😍
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Hello all, This has likely been asked before, and I apologise if it has. I have a favourite no name pen with a fine nib that tends to be rough. It is a F nib and has tipping material. I would like to take the nib down to an Extra Fine but am not sure how to deal with the tip material. Should I remove it or work at leaving it where it is and incorporate it into the reduction? Thank you for any input you may have.
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1-1.5 years ago there was an uproar about Pelikan and the QC problems with their nibs. In short, the nibs weren't always the size the stamping said they were. Is this still a problem?
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Does anyone know (or have any) where I can buy old bent/repairable nibs? I have already checked the major websites, so I’m looking for those unadvertised private websites of pen folks that would have them. I need to practice a repair technique, the more the better.
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I've learned that LAMY pens are tested at the factory as part of the quality control, but are the replacement nibs also tested at the factory? I'm a little bit concerned by the recurring theme of scratchy or non-functional replacement nibs in the 1 and 2 star reviews of the LAMY replacement nibs at Goulet Pens: https://www.gouletpens.com/collections/lamy-nibs/products/lamy-steel-nib-silver Or are all the "bad" nibs just clustered on a set of production years and it has gotten better since then?
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It is common among the community to say that gold nibs are not better than steel nibs. I disagree since most gold nibs are hand polished and tested one by one while steel nibs are mass produced in automated processes. So, in order for a steel nib to compete against a gold nib, it would need to be hand polished, hand finished and hand tested. Currently the only steel nibs that I am aware that are hand made are the Kaweco Premium Steel nibs (which cost $50 USD), , the steel nib of a Hero 40 years reform and opening special edition 英雄钢笔1978改革开放40 and Edison Pens. Maybe Faber-Castell steel nibs are also hand polished given their quality. But most steel nibs are not: Pelikan, Aurora, Lamy, etc. So, the question is what brands do you know that offer hand polished, hand finished steel nibs? Since today it was a cleaning day, I share a picture of a clogged feed and how I left it.
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Advice on vintage Onoto nib sizes and interchangeability?
velox brunneis vulpes posted a topic in Great Britain & Ireland - Europe
Dear fellow FPNers, I have recently acquired 2 vintage Onoto plunger fillers, a model 3000 with a No.3/ST nib, and a model 6000 with a No.3 nib. Could someone please let me know if the nibs And what does the "ST" on the No 3/ST stand are interchangeable? for? I look forward to your feedback Thanks in advance! -
Hello everyone and happy Sunday! Can anyone here help me identify these two Lamy nibs? I found them on an online private auction. They are two different nibs. Do you think they are nibs for a Lamy 2000? Maybe gold plated steel? Maybe yellow gold that is losing its rhodium plating?
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I just got the new Schon Design Monoc nib fountain pen. This is their first in-house designed and made nib and it writes like no other pen that I have experienced. It is smooth with a graphite like feedback that is very pleasant. The pen itself is really elegant--all black and very simple and sleek. My one criticism is that I find that the section is a bit too short for my fat hands, and the threads are a bit sharp, but I probably will get used to it. The nib itself is really unusual. It looks wonderful, and writes with a wet line that is more like a broad than a medium. It is so unusual for a small pen maker to actually create their own nib. What is even more courageous is to invent an entirely new kind of nib out of one piece of titanium. The advantage is that there is not all the complexity of having to weld a tip to the pen, but it also must be challenging to get it both smooth, but also make sure that it doesn't wear out quickly or bend. The nib itself does not flex, but because of its peculiar shape, you can get some different weights of lines and it actually writes very well in reverse. I have had no problems with flow--if anything it might be a bit too wet. I am a bit dubious by pen lovers who feel that the user should adjust their writing habits to the pen, but in this case I feel like it is like a handmade violin that will change my drawings as I learn what it can do and its unique characteristics. Also, I know that the design will evolve and it is exciting to the first edition of what I hope will be a series of nibs. I discuss the pen at length on my YouTube channel.
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I just did a YouTube review of the fountain pen I probably use more than any other for drawing, the Duke 600 which is a very inexpensive pen. I got mine on Amazon a few years ago, and it does a great job of filling in areas. It works almost like a brush but it gives me more control. It isn't just that the nib is bent (or Fude). The nib has a little hood that acts like a reservoir and makes sure that it gets enough ink, otherwise it would go dry. It is really an amazing bargain. It is a bit heavy, but when it is posted it is well balanced. The shape is a bit strange--a sort of hour glass figure. It is made of metal, which I usually don't like it, but it feels nice in my hand. The section is also metal, but it is engraved with a pattern so that it is not slippery. It posts very securely--so securely that it makes me wonder why other pens are not designed in the same way. It has a converter that has a little spring in it that seems to help with the ink flow. The only negative for me, is that this converter does not hold a lot of ink given how much ink the pen puts down. I wish someone would develop a similar pen with a big ink capacity. I need to make time to see if I can use the nib on an eyedropper pen like an Opus 88 or a vacuum filler. I wish someone would copy the design and make such a pen! You can see my review here:
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As in the title.
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I have recently purchased a new box of nibs, Zebra comic G, for copperplate calligraphy. They're nibs I used in the past with happy results, very flexible and nice fine lines in my opinion. I used them with regular fountain pen inks (like Waterman, Pelikan, Lamy, MontBlanc and so on) but also with some self-made mixes and gum arabic. The old set worked just fine as soon as it was out of the box, no need for cleaning or set-up: they just held ink perfectly. This new box seems exactly the same, same finishing, and it was purchased by the same vendor. However the nibs don't hold ink properly: it will pool around the reservoir and refuse to flow towards the tip. When it does flow, it very often comes down all at once creating splotches. I tried different ones, so it's not just a faulty one of the box. I have tried cleaning them with: saliva - which had worked fine in the past with other nibs: slightly better, but the issue is definitely not solved water - no improvement, almost made the issue worse if possible flame - held it over a lighter, at first just a second, then when it was not working I held it for several seconds: again the situation got somewhat better, but it's not solved Things I heard but haven't tried yet: toothpaste - I'm afraid to ruin the tip: should I go for it? chemicals, like solvents: acetone, nitro thinner or simple kitchen degreaser - I really don't know what's going to happen with the metal and/or the ink. I'm not keen on playing the little chemist, so I'd rather leave this as a last resort. intervening on the ink - maybe some inks will solve this problem? Maybe they need to be thinner? Do you have any recommendation or low-risk methods I could try at first? I really want to solve this because I love these nibs and would be very sad to start looking for different kinds to fall in love with also I have a deadline coming up for a job and need to sort this out rather quickly! Thanks and apologies for my English.
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How do you store your pen spare parts, extra nibs, ink converters and cartridges, etc.?
A Smug Dill posted a topic in Paper and Pen Paraphernalia
How do you store your pen spare parts, ink converters, etc.? My wife finally managed to get me to clean up some of my mess, ahead of friends visiting (which is quite rare for us). I have boxes of pen spare parts, standalone or replacement nibs and nib units, dip pen handles and nibs, ink cartridges and converters, tools (such as tiny wrenches) for pen maintenance, water brush pens, a stamping kit to produce an outline image on swatch cards, makeup applicators for swabbing ink, display stands for (photographing) swatch cards, surplus Chinese pens, dedicated cheap pens for holding certain iron-gall inks and pigment inks so that they're always on the ready, etc. All of which, until recently, used to sit in a precarious pile (or ‘tower’) on one of the unused dining chairs, and it's hard to either move them or hide them away from sight all at once. Just as well that I also have a hoard of ‘spare’ storage boxes, document trays, etc. This one proved suitable beyond my expectations, even though of course it couldn't hold all of that type of bits and bobs; I still have dozens of new Sailor, Platinum, and Pilot converters, as well as retail boxes of ink cartridges and new surplus (not just Chinese, but also Japanese and European) fountain pens filling up mini-crates and crammed into a huge drawer elsewhere. Take a guess how much stuff it holds for me! This is not nearly the “all laid out” view, when there are stacks and layers inside the smaller boxes themselves: All of the plastic boxes shown were bought in Daiso, with the exception of this one: -
Hi all. I am returning to the fountain pen world after some years, and I am trying to deepen my knowedge of the different types of nibs. I know about normal, italic, stub, music and so on, but I found in some sites the possibility to choose an "orb " nib (e.g. Orb 0.5). I made some researches here on the forum and elsewhere, but did not find a clear explanation. Could you provide some insights about this type of nib? Is it a subtype of the oblique nibs? Thanks.
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New to this forum. I have a Sailor Pro Gear slim with a extra scratchy nib. As Sailor is not having replacement nibs is there any possibility to put another nib from another manufacturer onto the feed? Such a pity replacement parts (nibs) for Japanese pens are not available. kind regards Michel
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The only person I know of is The Nib Studio, however he is not responding to messages on Instagram. Can anybody recommend trusted alternatives ? Would be better if you have previously sent your pens to the people in question.
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Hey all, I am wondering if it's worth it to get an Estie with a custom ground nib like those offered on Fountain Pen Hospital's site? This is also something to note:(a second one, also regular sized since my first will be an Oversized Honeycomb) Thoughts and opinions are definitely welcomed. Regards, Rosendust
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nibs Seeking /a/ vac fillers which have 1.5mm nibs and/or /b/ 1.5mm nibs which fit TWSBI vac fillers
KateGladstone posted a topic in Of Nibs & Tines
I’m seeking vac fillers which have 1.5mm stub or italic nibs (do they exist?) and/or 1.5mm stub or italic nibs which fit TWSBI GO and/or SWIPE vac fillers. Do these exist? (They need not be from TWSBI — I enjoy Frankenpenning.) Also, what chance is there of anyone being able to persuades TWSBI to resume making their 1.5 mm stub nib? Oh — by the way — what does TWSBI stand for, anyway? I assume that it abbreviates something, and that it may be abbreviating something in Chinese. I don’t know much Chinese, but I do know that a word which sounds like “bee” Is the Chinese word for a pen or pencil, So I wouldn’t be surprised to find that the company name is short for something Chinese. -
From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens
© (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.
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From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens
© (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.
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From the album: OldTravelingShoe's Random Pics of European Fountain Pens
© (c) 2022 by OldTravelingShoe. All rights reserved.
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Sailor is my favorite pen and I've owned quite a few over 20 years. I just purchased a Pro Gear 21K medium. The nib is marked "M" and not "H-M". In comparing it with the same model (different color) purchased in 2012, I find nib differences that, to me, are not acceptable. The line width has jumped from 0.28 mm to 0.41mm, that is, it has become "Western". Flow is inferior, with ink pooling at the bottom of letters and it writes poorly, with bleeding & feathering, on papers not designed for fountain pens. It is no longer an EDC. Worst of all, it does not have that precision feel, sharp imprint, and tactile feedback that we Sailor aficionados love. It writes like any one of the acceptable $60 pens I've owned. I contacted Sailor. They verified they are changing their nomenclature but have not made any other changes. I returned the pen for a refund. Maybe I got a rare defective nib. If I buy one of these new Sailors, I'll make sure it is easily returnable. For those who complained that Sailors are scratchy, this may be the one you like. There is a great YouTube post comparing Sailor 14K and 21K nibs. The author shows that all write about the same width and ink flow with the exception of M, where the 21K nib is much wider that the 14K equivalent,
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Bulk steel nibs to practice grinding, polishing, and tuning
Microgrs posted a topic in Of Nibs & Tines
In trying to hone my skills at grinding, polishing and tuning nibs I am looking for a source of ‘bulk’ #5 and #6 steel nibs on which to practice. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks. -
New here and interested in the best Fountain Pen components in the Asian market.
Artistic_P posted a topic in Introductions
Hello, Hope you are doing well. I'm interested in finding the best components of Fountain Pen such as Nibs, Brass tubes, Resin tubes, Feed, Ink Collector, Ink Converter, Inner Barrel and other inserts. Preferably in the Asian market. Any recommendation? Thanks -
What nibs to start with for my first bespoke pens
Denis Boarder posted a topic in Pen Turning and Making
,Just joined and posted an introduction. Forgot to mention that I belong to a Wood Workshop here in Melbourne who have a large membership but no one making bespoke pens, so that's what I'd like to concentrate on. I have pens my grandfather and farther left me in bakelite and So here's my question: Having used kits in the past with all parts provided, when I now look at my starting point, the nib, I'm overwhelmed. I'd love to be able to offer the pens concentrating on Australian Species, in particular ancient wood. As far as the nib is concerned I feel I would initially look at the mid range, chose and then stick to a manufacturer. It would be great to be able to chose between pen design and nib type. Can anyone give me a nudge in the right direction? Many Thanks Denis
