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  1. Does anyone else notice that the quality and nature of penmanship changes depending on the nib, pen, ink, and paper?? Here's a sample of my sloppy handwriting. Practice in progress. Rhodia Paper.
  2. Happy New Year and a New Decade too, fellow FPN members. I would like to share an insight to which I would also like to know your opinions. I tune my own pens and even my friends' pens. I have gotten pretty good at it and I can do some amateur grinds like grinding down nib widths though I am yet to master it. Recently I was tuning up a nib and came to observe a fact. Before I tell you what I observed, there is a post that a fellow FPN member shared a few years ago: I was working on a Faber Castell medium nib which is extremely smooth but has NO BABY'S BOTTOM. I had cleaned up the pen thoroughly by disassembling the feed and nib. I was using an Krishna Lyrebird blue which I think is dry(?) or maybe I can say its flow is not good. What I observed: 1) The pen initially with its super smooth tipping gave a very uneven flow of ink, ie parts of the letters were not of consistent width. (this very thing happened with other super smooth nibs too when using this ink) 2) I roughened up the tip just a bit and then I brought it to the paper and voila, it was behaving extremely well. Though it had some feedback it had no uneven flow of ink on paper on any of the letters. 3) I polished it up once again with Mylar and Micromesh papers to a glassy smooth feeling. The problem came back. Uneven flow. 4) This time I gave it a small "foot" on the tipping that is mostly found on Sailor nibs. This time it was even better than before. A perfect 10/10 inkflow. No scratchiness whatsoever, has a mild pleasant feedback. Writes on the least amount of pressure yet reliable. Opinions? Am I missing something?
  3. So I had replaced the nib on my Jinhao X750 about a month ago, and I want to switch it again. But no matter how I try, the nib and feed will not come out of the pen. I have soaked it in warm water and that didn't work either. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, FPN!
  4. I'm going to be buying a Pelikan M1000 in the next few days and was wondering what Nib size to order. I currently have an M805 with a B stub nib that I love. However, I had an M805 with an F nib that I preferred slightly more and my current daily driver is a Lamy 2000 with a M nib. Having used the B and F nibs on the M805 extensively, I'm leaning towards an F nib on the M1000 but I've also heard that you start to appreciate B nibs on fountain pens after writing with them for a while. Which nib size would be a good choice for everyday writing? I'm also debating between color choices and it's come down to either the new M1005 with grey stripes, the M1000 with green stripes, and the all black M1000. I'm leaning towards the all black M1000 due to the fact that I find it hard to see the ink level through the stripes of my M805 but I'd also like to have stripes because it's Pelikan's quintessential design. Is the ink window good enough to justify getting the all-black pelikan (I haven't seen much about the ink window) or should I go with the stripes and if so, which color? Thanks!
  5. JonnyTex

    King Of Pen Section Swap?

    I have an ebonite King of Pen I love. Anybody know if I could swap its section (the section, itself, is plastic) with a Pro Gear King of Pen? I'm thinking if I were to get another King of Pen down the road, I would probably want a Pro Gear since the ebonite model looks just about like the 1911 KOP. It seems logical to me that all the KOP sections would be identical (except for color, etc.) Thanks!
  6. I'm looking at https://rangapens.com/, and they offer a large variety of nibs in their handmade pens: Schmidt, Jowo, and Bock, steel & titanium. I'd hate to just guess and then have long round trips of shipping from US to India for swaps & service, so I wonder if anyone has some thoughts on: * How soft or springy do the various brands and materials tend to be in broad-point and medium-point? I don't write flexy-style, but I like a little bounce on the nib and paper. * Are there general trends of wetness vs dryness across the brands and materials? I know this depends a lot on tuning, maybe completely on tuning, but perhaps someone knows some general trends. * How buttery versus feedbacky do the various brands and materials tend to be (after tuning)? I'm ambivalent about this. Too much feedback can get tiring, too buttery can be annoying, too. * How easy is it to tune the nibs without dismounting them for these various brands and materials? * Any general differences in steel versus titanium in softness, feedbacky-ness, tunability? * I have a couple Goulet #6 broad-points, and I like them. Anyone know whether they are one of those brands? * Any comparisons in performance and feel to other nibs I am familiar with, i.e., Namiki #50, Montblanc 149, Visconti dreamtouch Palladium? (thinking out loud) these pens are so inexpensive that maybe I should just order three barrels each threaded for one of the three brands (I am pretty sure the three brands differ in threading, so the barrels would not be mutually compatible), then start experimenting with the nibs.
  7. Dr.X

    Winsor & Mason Dip Pen

    Hello from Boston. Does anyone happen to know anything about the company that manufactured Winsor & Mason gold dip nibs? I'm giving one away as a Christmas gift and would love to tell the recipient something beyond "it was probably manufactured between 1850 and 1900...". Many thanks. Nick
  8. KingRoach

    Waterman Model And Nib Removal

    Hi all. What precise model and year is this pen, and which direction should the feed be knocked out? I suppose you knock it from the back so it comes out from the nib-side? I'm asking because I have some unfinished business with this nib and I need to settle the score with it outside. Thanks in advance for your help. Best regards
  9. I recently purchased a Kaweco sport classic and have been using it with an included pack of cartridges (Kaweco Caramel brown) for the last week and a half with no issue. After finishing the last of the cartridges I inked the pen up with Diamine Asa Blue using the Kaweco piston converter but I found that the pen would get progressively drier as I wrote and would stop writing after a few pages, needing to have the feed re-primed to get back to writing. I tried flushing the pen and switching to Parker Quink but the problem only got worse so I decided to ditch the converter and refill a cartridge with Quick and have been writing with it all day without any issue so far. I'm wondering if the converter is the issue and how I can fix it? In case its relevant, the pen arrived with a bad case of baby's bottom but I was able to fix that with some micromesh and it is now one of my favorite writers. Edit: Forgot to mention that the feed slit isn't perfectly aligned with the nib slit. I tried to remove the nib and feed to fix that, but it won't budge.
  10. lmboyer

    To Stub Or Not To Stub

    I'm considering trying something new here but unsure whether it will really suit my liking or not. I am starting to look for the next addition to my collection and I'm looking for a new brand and a new writing experience (though hopefully one I like, not one that's just different). I'm wondering about stub nibs, knowing that they have quite a following in the FP world. I'm also looking at a few new brands I haven't tried yet (mainly Visconti but unfortunately their steel nibs as the gold/palladium are a bit out of my price range, so it would be the Rembrandt). One of my favorite pens so far is a Geha Oblique soft medium nib I have which is probably the closest I have to a stub/flex. I realize full well that the experience of a steel stub will be different than a gold semi-flex but I'm curious what you guys think - whether I should go for it and whether I will like it or if it will just feel kind of cheap. Alternatively I could also just go with a regular nib from one of these brands but at that point is it worth the cost if its just a steel nib? I do like the idea of a Visconti and even at the cheaper price point of the Rembrandt, the colors of the pen are gorgeous. One last notable thing - I underwrite and also rotate my paper such that when I write, my pen is perpendicular to the direction of my writing - there is almost no slant/angle to my writing. I feel like with a 1.5mm stub this would be very thick in all of my writing, especially if I am not writing very large, am I wrong? (Ultimately I realize that I won't know until I try it, but I want to see what some others with more knowledge/experience think) Thanks guys!
  11. What is the difference in writing experience between an M1000 nib, which is supposed to be semi-flex vs. using a M800/805 F ground to a cursive italic? i.e. in the line variation experience? I understand that the writing feel will be quite different on the semi-flex M1000 vs the soft rigid M800 nib. Also understand that the M1000 is heavier and thicker, so overall experience will be quite different. I don't own any italics or semi-flex, but in the distant future when I get to buy one of the above, I want to consider options. I tried a stub, and love it.
  12. essayfaire

    I Got Duofold Working!

    I finally succeeded in getting this inherited Duofold to work, decades after it came into my possession! I know a lot more now and had decided to give it another go now that I realize some pens don't twist to fill. This had been my grandfather's and did not come with a box nor instructions. I filled it with a lubricated ink (Monteverde) and it seems to have worked. Time will tell. I can't tell what size nib this is, but it seems to put down a fairly fine line. I'm pleased as punch!
  13. itskato

    Nakaya Nib Comparison

    So I was planning to buy a nakaya medium nib, then I saw this review https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQSfX91oAC4 by Mr. Brown. As you can see in the video the regular medium seems very dry and hard as a nail. Then I saw the soft medium, it seems like it is the nib I really want. A little bit flexible and pretty wet. But still I can't be so sure just from watching a video. So I'd like to ask anyone that has experienced it firsthand how the soft medium feel compared to the regular medium nakaya nib (is the medium really that dry? because I'm a little bit shocked at how dry and hard it is). My favorite kind of spring is the m200 fine steel nib. It is springy but not to springy. I don't like a nib that is too springy like the soft fine 14K platinum nib. Please share your experience on the nakaya soft medium and medium nib! It'd be much better if there is a comparison of those nakaya nibs to pelikan m200 fine nib and platinum soft fine nib. Thanks in advance! Edited: seems like I provided a wrong link to an anime video, I've corrected the youtube link
  14. Hi, last week a stunning Swan #2 tuned up nib arrived on a Swan L212/60 (late 1930s). It has a double pointed tipping: downside a F with good flex and on the top a real needlepoint! The L212 isn't restored yet, so I took a 6260 for a writing sample on A5 paper with 5mm squares: Some details of the nib and tipping: I haven't seen such a nib before, it seems to be a lucky find... Best Jens
  15. enchiridion

    Pearl's H.g.s. Century 18Cts Nib

    Does anybody have an idea who made a gold nib inscribed "Pearl's H.G.S. century 18cts"? the quality is good and it was found on a FAP Airmail fountain pen from the 1930s or 1940s. I cannot find a single reference. Even the FAP company seems very mysterious (some nice 1947 adverts survive).
  16. Hi FPN, I have been lurking for quite a while but this is my first post on here. I currently own a TWSBI 580 and a Lamy Safari, both in extra-fine, I have been considering purchasing either an Edison collier or a Pelikan m400 pen. I like my nibs to draw quite thin lines having come from Uni-ball pens, and I do not have access to a local store that sells Pelikan pens, I was wondering if someone could provide writing samples for a Pelikan extra-fine nib so I can try to assess the line-width. Thank you for your time, ~Chris
  17. TravelCommons

    Pelikan Nib Repair In Chicago?

    I just received an M800 Fine from Cult Pens that has an awful rough spot. Before I go thru the hassle of sending back to the UK for an exchange, can anyone suggest a shop in the Chicago area that could fix the nib? I'd prefer to pay a nibmeister to smooth it out than trans Atlantic shipping. Thanks, Mark
  18. The grand experiment is on. I have an extra Skyline nib which is hard as a nail. I am recontouring the underside, much like how Waterman flex nibs are ground (thinner at the edge, full thickness at where the two tines meet). I just want to give this nib a small amount of flex. This is baby steps for me before I go more dramatic. The pen it will rest in, is going through the final stages of a restore (the shellac which holds the sac in place is drying). Previously there was no flex or line variation with this nib (as tested before the restore effort). Tomorrow I will post the results. The victim is a Skyline Standard in black.
  19. I am looking for a new nib for the muji fountain pen. This post yielded contradicting results on which nibs fit. So there is the Bock 180 and 076 are mentioned that fit. So which one is it? Moreover I am based in Europe and wonder where I can get nibs. Most suggestion - concretely Feanaaro suggested the FPR 5 - are based in the US. Which suppliers are based in Europe? I really love the Pilot preppy and wonder if the fit. Glad to hear any suggestions.
  20. Hi, I got a beautiful Blue Moire Eversharp Skyline Standard. It came with a very stiff manifold nib in an ink-vue section. I hat stiff and love flex. So I have been looking at buying a replacement nib or another pen and then swapping nibs. But I have learned that the Standard Skyline came in at least two sizes. A smaller and a larger version. I have several of the skylines with the smaller nibs and they tend to have the eversharp imprinted on a curve with no other imprints. One of the smaller ones has the Eversharp at an angle. I have bought other skylines and individual nibs only to find they are the larger ones and will not work in this pen. Here is one thing I have not tried. Do the Demi size skylines have the same size as the smaller standard skylines? Also if anyone has a spare small nib or skyline laying around with some flex they they would be willing to sell, pls message me.
  21. I have been writing with fountain pens since elementary school. However, I did not start investing in gold nibs until the beginning of this year. In this particular post, as we are talking about the nib, I will be selectively focused on the broadness of the nib only. Since I am a college student, functionality always dictates my affection for any nib. As a result, none of my pens has a nib that is broader than a Pilot Custom 823 M. Currently, I have two Montblanc 146 pens, one in F and the other in EF; I have a Justus 95 in F, a Lamy 2000 in EF, a Pilot Custom 823 in M, a Pilot Falcon in EF, and a Sailor 1911L in MF. As you can see, reflected in my rather a small collection, finer nibs are truly special to me. They make it possible for me to write more information on a single page and draw clear graphs/chemical structures. It is also worth mentioning that on a practical standpoint, the nib has to be suitable for me to write rather fast - these fine nibs have all aligned this requirement quite well (except the Falcon EF since it is too soft and can, therefore, get scratchy during fast writing). Furthermore, even though these are rater fine nibs, they still allow my inks to show their color variations (I use Irushizuku inks, Montblanc ink, Kobe ink, and Kyoto ink). Since I never own any broader nibs, I am very curious about your thoughts. Do you think I should get a broader nib? Here are some pictures of my pens and the things I write for your reference.
  22. GlenV

    Waterman Nibs !

    Just an appreciation for the beautiful nibs made by Waterman, pretty, sensitive and durable, hats off to the ideal nibs. This one is from around 1940, but no better than ones from the teens. Pretty to look at and even better to use! Way to go Waterman
  23. Hi all, I am about to go after a Pelikan M800 with a Medium nib. Does anyone have some writing samples to show of the Medium nib (ideally compared with the Broad nib, in case you have both pens)? That would really help me move forward with this purchase.
  24. I've heard that Visconti are going to phase out the Dreamtouch Pd nibs...the relaunched watermark series and the Voyager 30 all have 18K nibs. Flipside? The newer nibs are insanely expensive. I queried getting one for my watermark to swap out the Pd nib, and they are EUR315+VAT for F, M and B and the EF and Stub will be EUR363+VAT I'm not sure whether they're just meant to replace the Pd nibs or are simply another tier up...Considering they're a good EUR125 (ex-VAT) more expensive than the Pd nib units, this could mean the refreshes of the HS series could go up by as much as US$200(!) Your thoughts?
  25. Hello again to all my FPN friends, I know anytime you use the word "best" for something as subjective as a fountain pen you'll get varied responses, but that's what I'm hoping for. Here's my question for you all: In your opinion, what is the best gold-nibbed Chinese pen (a Chinese branded pen, not just a pen made in China) available on the market today? Along with your recommendation, please explain why the nib feels great to you and what you like about both the pen and nib. What does the nib feel like on the paper? How much feedback? Including that information will help others decide whether the pen is a good choice for them. Thanks in advance for your contributions!





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