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Showing results for tags 'nib'.
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Hello everyone, hope your weeks are off to a fine start. I come to you today with a very specific question: is my Montblanc 146 nib scraping its shoulders on the inside of my Conid Minimalistica’s cap? I usually use my Minimalisticas with Sailor nibs, but I have a lovely 146 nib, which I’ve had ground to a CSI, that I occasionally swap in. My question springs from the slightest scraping sensation I can feel when capping the pen fitted with the aforementioned nib. Now, both of my Conid’s are the all Delrin AVDA Phi versions, so I am unable to actually see if the nib and the inner cap are indeed making contact. I would hate to damage such a fine nib, so I am hoping someone out there with a clear capped Minimalistica is using a 146 nib and could answer my question. Thank you in advance. All the best to you and yours, Eli
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Hi, In cleaning my (stock) nib, I tried to wipe it dry with a cloth and it popped right off. All I could find in a Google search are articles emphasizing the difficulty of removing the nib (!), and they all just say to slide the (new) nib on, making sure it's oriented properly. I can slide it on to the feed, but it doesn't seem to slide into the section and it's just loosely sitting on the feed. What am I doing wrong? Is it supposed to go into the section? If so, do I just have to push it really hard? Thanks a lot for your help.
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Periodically I come back to writing with a fountain pen. I cant afford expensive pens but tend to use Fine nibs if available I am old school so big problem is writing checks. Find even fine nibs seem to bleed and form larger lines. Have found it necessary to reverse the nib writing to get an even thinner line though it makes writing more scratchy I assume there may be no real solution??
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My first vintage Sheaffer pen was a Triumph 550GT pen, that needless to say, wasn't equipped with a Triumph nib. But it was thanks to this pen that I found out about Sheaffer's legendary conical nibs. It's been a while since I've been under the impression that all Sheaffer conical nibs were denominated Triumph but just yesterday I got a Sheaffer Stylist MkII pen that sports a nib that is a conical one but seems to be referenced as "Skripsert". Can anyone clarify what defines one or the other nib? Thanks in advance!
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Greetings! I need some advice. I have an early 1990's MB 149 which needs nib work. I'm guessing it's baby's bottom but the tines also seem to be "wanky" and need adjusted at the bare minimum. I'm not comfortable working on a nib and I live in Germany. I've read about MB's service and it seems that they are more apt to replace parts than fix them, and the cost to replace a nib is very expensive. Also, I bought this pen used (the body and cap are in perfect condition), but unsure if I will keep it as I've really fallen in love with some of my other pens. I'd like to know if it's advisable to send the pen to MB for service or if it would potentially be better to send it to a nibmeister. If you are suggesting a nibmeister, do you know of a good one in Europe, preferably in Germany? Thank you so much in advance! Dave
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Help! How Do You Hold Your Fountain Pen?
fountainphreak posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
I need help fact-checking my a part in the Novel I am writing. I want to know how someone who writes Italics would hold their pen, is it any different from someone who writes with a Straight Handwriting? I conjecture that someone who writes in a Straight Handwriting will have the nib pointing -45 to -20 degrees from their body whereas an Italics writer would hold it -15 to +25 degrees. What this means is that a Normal writer's nib will be more worn on the left side than the right, and vice-versa in an Italics writer. Please send in a picture (if possible) of how you would hold your nib if you are writing in italics, and mention whether you usually write in a straight, or in italics. Everyone who submits a response will be mentioned in the Acknowledgements at the beginning of my novel. It's a thriller, and this is the part where the detective begins to suspect things she would have never had otherwise... Any help and advice will be deeply appreciated. I place a very high price on the factual accuracy of a novel. -
Recently I've ordered some F & LH nibs from my country's official Lamy store to customize some of my Safaris and AL-Stars. While changing the nibs, I've noticed that they are too tight fitting. When I wanted to remove one from my AL-Star with tape, whole feed detached from the pen. Fortunately the feed and the pen are fine but, I'm surprised to tightness of the new Lamy nibs. Did anyone experienced the same phenomena? What if I want to return to old nibs of the pens some day? How can I remove these nibs? The nibs write very good BTW. They are wet, smooth and firm like all Lamy nibs.
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The pen arrived with a dried out cartridge that first signaled bad news. I waited for 2 months for this pen from Japan, and it won't write. I have soaked it for 3 evenings and run it under warm water. It's soaking as I write this now. When water is in the section, it will drain out through the nib. A fresh cartridge or a converter doesn't allow the ink to flow past a few scribbles. If this were a cheaper pen, I'd attempt to open it up, but I'm not well versed in repair and this was over $100 to acquire. Can someone make a recommendation as to who might be able to solve this issue? I'm in the NYC area but I don't mind shipping it.
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Hi everyone, I'm Jim, known as PenSloth over on Instagram. I finally got around to making a video of one of my nibs and a writing sample. (Hopefully, this is the right place to post this.) At some point in the future, I'm going to do more videos, including some technical information about grinding and stacking nibs. Thanks! -Jim
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Conway Stewart Needs Complete Restoration. Who To Send To?
kealani posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
I have a Conway Stewart in excellent outside condition. I sent it to a pen repair person for a complete restoration, new sac, nib tuned and polished. I got it back and all it got was "grease" and does not fill or write. Charge was $17. (restoration quote was $40) Rather than pursue with this fellow and waste my time, are there any reputable pen restorers, repair persons in the USA, with an online website, that I can send my pen to for restoration and nib tuning and polish? Thanks for your help. jim -
Dear All, Greetings, I am from India and have newly joined FPN, a goldmine of information regarding fountain pens. I recently got (re-)interested in fountain pens after using a Lamy Safari for past 2-3 years. I needed something with better ink capacity and found TWSBI Eco to start with However, due to my stupidity I lost it's nib, and now cannot find a reasonably priced replacement for it here in India. Please guide as to what are my possible options. Thanks and regards
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I just received a MB 149 platinum body with no nib and feeder since I already had those two items. The collar was already inserted. The feed goes in until it hits the bottom and the horizontal notch on the nib is just above the barrel. The nib goes in very quickly and when it hits the bottom of the collar, the feeder is the same if not little longer that the nib. I have 4 other MBs and changed nib/feeder with the MB platinum resulting in the same situation: the nib/feeder is too loose for the platinum collar. Questions: Do I need to get a different nib or a feeder (I have plastic feeder similar to the pictures of Platinum on websites)? do I need to get a different feeder? if so will it fit into the Platinum? Thank you for considering my questions. Hal
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Dear community, for sure this issue has been discussed somewhere in the 89 pages of this forum. I apologize if I re-propose it again. My "brand" pens, with original unit (feeder and nib), work flawlessly. Great, generous and just the right amount of ink. My "restored" ones don't. Basically they all suffer from poor ink flow. As a user, I buy old pens and I put new feeder and nib. Nibs are the good ones, Knox, Artisan State. Feeders, I never paid too much attention, but I'm now since they all have just one tiny ink drain, and that could possibly cause the dryness. I checked a feeder from a good "brand" pen, and it had 3 drains instead of one. If this is the case, should I look for these multi-drain feeders? I haven't seen them around, where do they sell? Is this "the" solution? I can tell I adjust my nibs, I align the tines, with the correct separation, correct tiny space between nib and feeder for a good ink flow, etc.. so I think I'm ok on that side. Ink wise, I've tried all kind of brands, Montblanc, Private Reserve, Parker, Sheaffer, none gives the flow I need. So it's not an ink problem. Suggestions and help are very welcome. Thank you very much. Vieri
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To all those who own (tried) both pens, i would like to ask why are western nibs (pelikans specifically) are know to be wetter than the Japanese nibs (considering same nib width on paper and not marking) . Is it because of the feed/nib material or the engineering of the feed/nib ?
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Yukio Nagahara And Specialty Nibs Of Sailor
The-Thinker posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
I have heard that sailor’s nibmeister Yukio Nagahara retired, i was wondering what would be the future of sailor like (as a company know for their amazing nibs). Will their specialty nibs develop, or would the nagahara nibs never be produced again due to the retirement (king cobra , eagle ,...).I want to hear your thoughts and references regarding the topic! -
As a lefty (with atrocious penmanship), I have a soft spot for Waterman’s Yellow nibs. In turn, the collection has steadily grown. What struck me today when looking them over is how different the nib shape and profiles are from one to another. Additionally, flexibility varies significantly. In the close-up photos of the nibs from left to right: (1) Canadian #5. (2,3) US #7’s. (4) Canadian #7. (5) Canadian 14k #7. (6) US 18k #7. By far, the 18k nib requires the least amount of pressure to spread the tines and lays down a strong wet line. The #5 is quite springy and flexible. The 14k nib is surprisingly the least flexible. So, the moral of the story, when my girlfriend muses why I have 'so many of the same pen', I can now point out that they are in fact quite dissimilar. The madness continues….
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Is increasing the distance between nib and feed increase or decrease ink flow? Why?(concerned about sailors specifically)
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Silly curiosity, this. Cleaning my 88 from the 8o's sometime (first pen I ever bought) I see some really, really tiny figures at the bottom of the nib just before entering the section. I haven't found anything on these tiny markings, any ideas? From the top the nib reads 14k, 585, Aurora, that's all well and good, now here's the tricky bit, in an oval: a five pointed star, numeral 5, _space_ TO. They are so tiny I don't think I have anything that could provide a good photo. Now that I've spotted them, I can't let it go. Thanks kindly.
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Hi all, first post here. I bought a taperite citation with the hooded nib that needs restoring, but the nib needs replacing. I have been scouring the web for months trying to find a replacement with no success. Having to guess at the nib description as all the engraving says is ‘made in england’ or some such. I have bought other taperites with the intention of nicking their nibs, but they are always in good condition and very saleable, so it would simply leave me with yet another pen needing a nib. Can anyone point me to a nib or provide an accurate description of the nib model so i can continue my search without going bald too quickly? i apologies if i am in the forum, feel free to moderate me. many desperate thanks in advance, Dave C.
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I'm afraid I accidentally sprung my Sailor 1911L nib a little. I may have accidentally given a tad too much pressure when writing. It's not bad at all. I can see a tiny separation between the tines, and the nib is writing more like a M than the MF it is (it is noticeably wetter than before). I don't have any skipping or hard starts, I just don't like that it has become much wetter. I may not have actually sprung it, but just in case, what measures can I take to fix it? Thank you.
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Does anyone else notice that the quality and nature of penmanship changes depending on the nib, pen, ink, and paper?? Here's a sample of my sloppy handwriting. Practice in progress. Rhodia Paper.
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What Happens For An Extremely Smooth Nib Tipping!
kikopens posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
Happy New Year and a New Decade too, fellow FPN members. I would like to share an insight to which I would also like to know your opinions. I tune my own pens and even my friends' pens. I have gotten pretty good at it and I can do some amateur grinds like grinding down nib widths though I am yet to master it. Recently I was tuning up a nib and came to observe a fact. Before I tell you what I observed, there is a post that a fellow FPN member shared a few years ago: I was working on a Faber Castell medium nib which is extremely smooth but has NO BABY'S BOTTOM. I had cleaned up the pen thoroughly by disassembling the feed and nib. I was using an Krishna Lyrebird blue which I think is dry(?) or maybe I can say its flow is not good. What I observed: 1) The pen initially with its super smooth tipping gave a very uneven flow of ink, ie parts of the letters were not of consistent width. (this very thing happened with other super smooth nibs too when using this ink) 2) I roughened up the tip just a bit and then I brought it to the paper and voila, it was behaving extremely well. Though it had some feedback it had no uneven flow of ink on paper on any of the letters. 3) I polished it up once again with Mylar and Micromesh papers to a glassy smooth feeling. The problem came back. Uneven flow. 4) This time I gave it a small "foot" on the tipping that is mostly found on Sailor nibs. This time it was even better than before. A perfect 10/10 inkflow. No scratchiness whatsoever, has a mild pleasant feedback. Writes on the least amount of pressure yet reliable. Opinions? Am I missing something?
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So I had replaced the nib on my Jinhao X750 about a month ago, and I want to switch it again. But no matter how I try, the nib and feed will not come out of the pen. I have soaked it in warm water and that didn't work either. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, FPN!
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I'm going to be buying a Pelikan M1000 in the next few days and was wondering what Nib size to order. I currently have an M805 with a B stub nib that I love. However, I had an M805 with an F nib that I preferred slightly more and my current daily driver is a Lamy 2000 with a M nib. Having used the B and F nibs on the M805 extensively, I'm leaning towards an F nib on the M1000 but I've also heard that you start to appreciate B nibs on fountain pens after writing with them for a while. Which nib size would be a good choice for everyday writing? I'm also debating between color choices and it's come down to either the new M1005 with grey stripes, the M1000 with green stripes, and the all black M1000. I'm leaning towards the all black M1000 due to the fact that I find it hard to see the ink level through the stripes of my M805 but I'd also like to have stripes because it's Pelikan's quintessential design. Is the ink window good enough to justify getting the all-black pelikan (I haven't seen much about the ink window) or should I go with the stripes and if so, which color? Thanks!
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I have an ebonite King of Pen I love. Anybody know if I could swap its section (the section, itself, is plastic) with a Pro Gear King of Pen? I'm thinking if I were to get another King of Pen down the road, I would probably want a Pro Gear since the ebonite model looks just about like the 1911 KOP. It seems logical to me that all the KOP sections would be identical (except for color, etc.) Thanks!
