Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'nib'.
-
What could be wrong with (or dirty or clogging) a nib? I have had two Preppies and one "disposable" Zebra with what I thought was a similar problem. I see plenty of ink and if I wipe the sides or back vent hole with a damp paper towel, ink immediately wicks out. But when I wrote, nothing came out. With the Zebra, I pulled the nib out and noticed with some magnifier help that there seem to be a teenie bit of dried ink between the tines. I scrubbed it with a cotton swab with some rubbing alcohol and sure enough some ink-color staining on the swab. I "deform" the nib a little bit to expose the inner-edges to the alcohol. I put the Zebra back together, and all is fine. I did the same with a Preppy, but it's still not writing. I recall now this is the same problem I encountered about 8 years ago and is why I gave away my Preppys. However, I want to try again. I should note that this is clogging on BayStateBlue. The cloggy Preppy is better with the included cartridge. The other non-clogging Preppy is filled with Monteverde. These Preppys are all newer models, not the ones with the painted colors on the nib-backs. (Too bad, they are cute.) Or maybe BSB is like any drier ink and I should "do something" to the space between tines? Or "deform" it a bit to be farther away from the black part? Thanks for any tips! Btw, I refilled a "disposable" blue Zebra with BSBlue and it writes terrifically -- thin lines, thinner than the Preppy 03 but maybe a little wider line than the Preppy 02. No hard starts and good cap-off time. Is anybody using Preppy+BSBlue? -
I am looking for a particular fountain pen from Montblanc. I believe it is a Meisterstuck fountain pen. I have attached the photo. It is the middle one with a name color of what may seem to be like a Crimson red or some thing. Does anyone know which model this one is exactly? I first encountered this from watching a YouTube video of a guy I think his video or channel is called the gentleman gazette. Please let me know if you know of this model and if you know where I can buy one? Thank you very much for your time.
-
I did this comparison of Sailor nibs EF, F, MF and M for someone else and thought this might be helpful for others too. It seems like a big step between MF and M. I think I saw the same behaviour between Pilot M and F. My writing world is clearly below M. KoP Standard M, 1911 Std MF, ProGear F, 1911L: Sailor Blue-Black
-
Left handed nib selection for first gold nib purchase.
Pencidental posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
I am about to make my first gold nib purchase and I'm unsure about which nib I should get. I am a lefty, over writer without a hook. I turn my paper/journal at a 45 degree counter clockwise angle when I write, so I write away from my body. I will be purchasing a Santini pen, I enjoy using the Pilot Metropolitan Cursive Medium and would like a similar, if not more refined writing experience. My choices are Italic, Left Oblique or Reverse Oblique. They also offer a 0.9mm Italic nib as an option to their 1.1 Italic. Any insight would be appreciated, I've had a recent bad experience with a TWSBI Precision Stub pen which I had to pass on to my wife as it proved to be unusable in my hands. I'd like to think it's a one off experience being a lefty, but I do not want to risk a similar experience. -
I love my Parker vacumatic. Its nib is the best I’ve ever written with. It seems to be an extra fine/fine and though it doesnt have line variation like a stub or italic/ the line width isn't totally uniform and has some nice character. There is a wonderful almost pencil-like feedback. What modern pens would you recommend that have a similar feel? I’m guessing gold nibs? I’m tired of the likes of Kaweco nibs that feel like a nail and not as tactile.
-
I am a new owner of a Dupont Montparnasse. The feed seems to be of a unique design. There are none of the typical slots that function as ink reservoirs to deal with pressure changes, nor does the nib have the usual breather hole through which you can view the feed slot. Do any of the Dupont experts out there clarify how this manages to deal with pressure changes, ie, is there an alternative to the slots? Thanks for any info!
-
the question has come to my mind a few times, which are your favourite steel nibs? and why? Are there some really great steel nibs out there? I usually prefer gold nibs due to their greater degree of springiness (with some notable exceptions especially in more modern nibs) but a few steel nibs deserve my admiration too. The first one that comes to mind is the Pelikan M200 (or 120) steel nib. I like the M200 nibs in almost all widths from F to B (BB should be nice too but have not managed to get one yet). I also have an old OM that is really nice. All of them have this special springiness that's uncommon in steel nibs and that makes me prefer them over any other steel nib. Only the EF admittedly is not my favourite, slightly scratchy, but then again I'm not really an EF guy...still springy though. Another pleasant recent experience with a steel nib is the B nib on my Momento Zero and Furore. Very smooth and... slightly springy! I do like that! (some of you had some bad experience with Leonardo nibs, I have not tried the narrower nibs, but my Bs are really great.) Faber Castell steel nibs: I like these for a different reason, in reality they are stiff, but oh, so smooth! If I had to make a comparison with gold nibs the FC steel nibs would be the Waterman Man100/200 of gold nibs (or Dupont) A few other good steel nibs come to my mind when I think of Stipula, Visconti, Delta. These are likely Bock nibs, made to custom design. They all usually are very smooth, Stipula and Delta, especially in earlier pens like the Journal, sometimes showing slight springiness. Generally speaking, Bock own branded steel nibs are good (I have several on my Ranga pens), nothing too surprising, slightly stiff, but usually very pleasant and reliable. But are there other really great steel nibs out there that I'm not aware of? (I know some of you will come up with those flex nibs like the zebra G nib, but those are really out of my interest/capabilities of use... I also disregard most of the Chinese nibs, some of them can be smooth, but oh, so stiff...)
-
I am interested in Ratnam Pens because of all the Indian fountain pen creators they seem to be the only ones who make things "from scratch", including the nibs. I dropped a message on Ratnam's WhatsApp number asking whether they make gold nib pens today. Surprisingly I got back a "No" for an answer. IIRC the person who made those pens (Mr. Ratnam) is quite old. Does he no longer work?
-
Artist using fountain pens UEF and spray fixative drawings
Carolartist posted a topic in Of Nibs & Tines
Hello, I am an artist who has recently moved away from India ink and rapidograph/technical pens (4x0) to UEF platinum 3776 fountain pens and dye based fountain pen ink. My style is drawing/inking on top of watercolors. As such fountain pen ink tends to spread and I lose my thin line. I’ve found I can apply spray workable fixative to the watercolor, let it dry then ink with fountain pens and fountain pen ink over it with great success. I use extremely light pressure. My question. Am I doing damage or harm to the nib? Thanks, Carol -
I just got hold of a couple of NOS Parker 15 pens from the Newhaven-era. One is a Matte Black GT and the other a Energy Yellow Demostrator. I want to create a frankenpen out of the two by using the clear section of the Demo on the Matte Black cap and barrel, but I want the gold nib on this clear section. Anyone knows how to safely remove the nibs out of these pens? Thanks beforehand!
-
I recently acquired two Sheaffer Sagaris fountain pens, one with a fine nib, the other with a medium. I decided that I preferred the fine nib so I went looking for a fine nib unit to purchase to replace the medium. Since it's the entire unit, it should just screw into the barrel, right? I found a replacement fine nib unit from a seller in England, purchased it, and it has arrived. It won't screw all the way into the barrel that came with the medium nib unit. Hmm... So let's try the fine nib unit from the other pen from the original purchase. It won't screw all the way in either! Oh, futz... It's not due to the length of the converter (or shortness of the barrel.) I tried screwing in just the nib unit; no joy. The gap left between the barrel and the unit flange that nestles up against it is about 1mm. If I can find a flat washer with the proper i.d., o.d., and thickness I can fill the space, but that's a big if (and a big, ugly kludge.) I might have a better result with an o-ring (see ugly kludge.) Time to get out the vernier calipers and take some precise measurements. I suspect that the medium barrel was not threaded to the same depth as the fine barrel, hence the fine nib unit coming up short. It strikes me as very odd that Cross/Sheaffer would manufacture different barrels for different nib units because a more complicated manufacturing process is a more expensive and error-prone process. Can anyone shed some light on why the nib units are not interchangeable or suggest any alternatives for dealing with my situation? thanks, richard -- - You can’t get enough minimalism.
-
I saw this pen for sale recently, and I was torn between the horror of a nib that neglected, and the doubt about whether or not it was some sort of artisinal finish that is, in fact, much desired by afficionados. There is something almost deliberate looking about it... Can someone please enlighten me?
-
I had posted this thread a few days ago in a different area of FPN. Perhaps best in Regional Forum under Italian pens. Would appreciate if anyone has seen this kind of nib imprint and knows what it is. Many thanks!! ---------- I had the pleasure of seeing a very nice vintage fountain pen during a recent dinner with a friend. The pen belonged to the his late grandfather. It is an Omas Extra lever filler with marbled brown celluloid. I love looking at any vintage pens, and noticed that the nib is not the usual Omas vintage nib. It has a kind of sheep(?) imprint on the nib with "14K-585" and "OSMIUM" on it. I didn't write with it, but I tried on my thumb nail and it feels very soft and flexible, a typical wonderful vintage nib of that era. With the permission of my friend, I posted the photos of this pen in the hope that someone might know what this interesting-looking replacement nib is. Many thanks!! By the way, I had offered to restore (lever is stuck and also needs new sac for sure) and polish this pen for my friend, but he doesn't want. Nib is patinated but he doesn't want to get it polished either. He wants to leave the pen as how it was when he received it, and only uses it as a dip pen. I understand.
-
I have an ebonite eyedropper pen fitted with a Schmidt #5 nib. I topped my pen's tank with Platinum's Carbon Ink. After keeping the pen nib down for about 10 minutes I tried writing a few lines. To my disappointment the nib doesn't seem to put much ink to paper. The letters are faint with portions disappearing altogether. I had run water throught the pen yesterday and allowed it to dry out. No obstruction or any sediment was found within the pen. Could the ink be an issue or is it the nib?
-
It looks a little funny to me.
-
Who would you recommend for nib customization ? Required would be stacking gold nibs, gridding and retipping them ?
-
I bought a Sheaffer Prelude Silver Brush “M” Fountain Pen on the Bay (item no. 223837617036) and received it Friday, 3 days ago. This is the made-in-China model, but it seems to have gone to Sheaffer Mexico. The selling price was $38.00. The listing specifies " Condition: New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item (including handmade items). See the seller's listing for full details." and "Sheaffer Prelude Silver Brush “M” Fountain Pen. Beautiful and comfortable! Comes in a great Sheaffer gift box, Black as well as a blue ink cartridges and a converter. Condition is New. What a great gift or keep it for yourself! Shipped with USPS First Class Package." The seller has a few dozen fountain pens listed on the Bay. I cleaned and flushed the pen and discovered that it had been dipped in ink. I wrote to the seller on Friday pointing this out and suggested that he be more accurate in his listings or that he flush pens before shipping them. I haven't received a response yet. Nevertheless, I left positive feedback. On Sunday, I examined the nib with a magnifying glass and discovered a defect. On the underside, the black plastic part (the feed?) isn't aligned with the metal part. We're talking about the metal part and the plastic part being an inverted V, with the end of the feed being cut short. In other words, it's more like an inverted U. The straight part of the feed, which goes from right to left, is about 1.5mm wide. The black part is off to the side, about 0.5mm off. It is so badly misaligned that the left hand side (facing up) of the black part extends beyond the metal part. On the right hand side, the metal is exposed. As far as I can tell, the pen writes fine. But, what do I know? With usage, might the nib get distorted? This is a defect, but Is this defect significant enough to return the pen? Would it qualify for Sheaffer's warranty? I haven't written to the seller yet.
-
Ideas To Explore Various Nib Types In Indian Pens..
antarmukhee posted a topic in India & Subcontinent (Asia)
I never used flex, broad, BB, stub, oblique or italic nibs in any pens so far. And I want to try out. I want to select a pen model that is relatively inexpensive that will fit these nib types. I will keep my options restricted to nib manufacturers in India or nibs that are available for purchase in India. Just to clear my confusion around nib size, and nib width - I understand that the size (with numbers like #5, #6) refers to the dimensions of the nib. And if I understand correctly there is no uniform size comparison and it varies between pens. Correct me if I am wrong. The only comprehensive nib catalogue that I got hold of was from Kanwrite. If we look at Kanwrite nib catalogue, the stub, italic and oblique options are available only for large (#35) nibs. Is it the case that smaller nibs (#4, #5) do not come with stub/oblique/italic options for width? Is it the case with all nib manufacturers? If anybody has a catalogue that visually shows different Indian nibs, please share with me. It seems like there are 2 options to explore different nibs: Get a fountain pen that can fit # 35 size nib. Fit and try each nib one at a time. When wanting to write with a different type of nib, change the nib. The problem is that each time I will be changing the nib and I am not very confident whether I will fit them correctly etc. Get multiple fountain pens that are pre-fitted with each type of nib that I want to explore (eg. B, BB, sharp stub, oblique etc). If nibs are pre-fitted they can be tested beforehand and it is easier for me to deal with. But, it comes at the disadvantage of having to buy multiple fountain pens just for the sake of exploring nibs.Is it a good idea to buy relatively inexpensive pens (eg. Camlin 36 or Camlin Elegante or Click Aristocrat) and fit the different nib types from Kanwrite in separate pens to try them out? Thanks in advance.. -
So, I finally attempted a nib replacement- a Zebra G nib in a Jinhao x450. I think it worked pretty darn well!
-
I bought this Waterman Expert new in December, 2019. It occasionally skips. When writing on Rhodia paper (No. 18, 80g/m^2), it writes rough. It writes smoother on Tamoe River 52g/m^2 but still skips. I wouldn't say the nib is wet. Does this mean it's dry? The ink I'm currently using is Pelikan 4001 Royal Blue. I filled it July 12, 11 days ago.. Last night, it completely stopped writing. I extracted a little ink with the converter and then it restarted. Could this be the nib? The feed? The cartridge? The pen? I've never in my life gone to a nib meister but wonder if that might help. If so, any recommendations? I'm located in New York City.
-
Hello everyone, hope your weeks are off to a fine start. I come to you today with a very specific question: is my Montblanc 146 nib scraping its shoulders on the inside of my Conid Minimalistica’s cap? I usually use my Minimalisticas with Sailor nibs, but I have a lovely 146 nib, which I’ve had ground to a CSI, that I occasionally swap in. My question springs from the slightest scraping sensation I can feel when capping the pen fitted with the aforementioned nib. Now, both of my Conid’s are the all Delrin AVDA Phi versions, so I am unable to actually see if the nib and the inner cap are indeed making contact. I would hate to damage such a fine nib, so I am hoping someone out there with a clear capped Minimalistica is using a 146 nib and could answer my question. Thank you in advance. All the best to you and yours, Eli
-
Hi, In cleaning my (stock) nib, I tried to wipe it dry with a cloth and it popped right off. All I could find in a Google search are articles emphasizing the difficulty of removing the nib (!), and they all just say to slide the (new) nib on, making sure it's oriented properly. I can slide it on to the feed, but it doesn't seem to slide into the section and it's just loosely sitting on the feed. What am I doing wrong? Is it supposed to go into the section? If so, do I just have to push it really hard? Thanks a lot for your help.
-
Periodically I come back to writing with a fountain pen. I cant afford expensive pens but tend to use Fine nibs if available I am old school so big problem is writing checks. Find even fine nibs seem to bleed and form larger lines. Have found it necessary to reverse the nib writing to get an even thinner line though it makes writing more scratchy I assume there may be no real solution??
-
My first vintage Sheaffer pen was a Triumph 550GT pen, that needless to say, wasn't equipped with a Triumph nib. But it was thanks to this pen that I found out about Sheaffer's legendary conical nibs. It's been a while since I've been under the impression that all Sheaffer conical nibs were denominated Triumph but just yesterday I got a Sheaffer Stylist MkII pen that sports a nib that is a conical one but seems to be referenced as "Skripsert". Can anyone clarify what defines one or the other nib? Thanks in advance!
-
Greetings! I need some advice. I have an early 1990's MB 149 which needs nib work. I'm guessing it's baby's bottom but the tines also seem to be "wanky" and need adjusted at the bare minimum. I'm not comfortable working on a nib and I live in Germany. I've read about MB's service and it seems that they are more apt to replace parts than fix them, and the cost to replace a nib is very expensive. Also, I bought this pen used (the body and cap are in perfect condition), but unsure if I will keep it as I've really fallen in love with some of my other pens. I'd like to know if it's advisable to send the pen to MB for service or if it would potentially be better to send it to a nibmeister. If you are suggesting a nibmeister, do you know of a good one in Europe, preferably in Germany? Thank you so much in advance! Dave
