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  1. Astronymus

    Lamy Hanzi nibs

    I've read that Lamy has released special Hanzi nibs in Asia. They seem to be on the "architect" side to aid with Chinese or Japanese writing. I can't write Chinese but I'm curious. Anyone used one? https://www.instagram.com/p/CYc46c2vLFN/ https://www.instagram.com/p/CYfVKvQvUKn/ But since when is there a matte red Safari? 🤔
  2. fingertrouble

    Summit S.125 nibs?

    Had a business seller on eBay sell a pen to me with a cracked nib and not mention it in the description - and was hard to see in the blurry photos! Really naughty and their response that 'at this price what do you expect?' for £20 when I have bought better pens for the same or less without a cracked nib AND those sellers were honest. Very lucky for them I didn't want the stress of calling eBay in. Yet I am worried if I give the pen back they will just flog it on to someone else the same way :-/ So I could return it or get a replacement nib - anyone know what nibs fit a Summit S.125? A Mk 1 I think, dark green marble http://summit.wesonline.org.uk/section105.html - it is a nice pen, despite the unfixable nib. I'd love a flex nib, if one of those will fit...but finding a genuine Summit nib might be hard. (Oh and another minor rant: they also sent it in a really thin cheap jiffy bag. No other protection. I was shocked. And yes they charged £3 extra for postage and packing! Thing is, all the other pens I have bought off eBay have been lovely people, and really well packaged, and as described - well bar a slightly bent Waterman nib but I think they weren't a regular seller of vintage pens/jewellery unlike this person. That's why I feel this is rather sharp practice and not just ignorance).
  3. Hi y'all! I have a Montblanc 310 that has quite a gap between the nib and the feed and am not sure of what to do, as I'm not sure whether the gap is the result of the nib being bent upwards or the feed being bent downwards. There's a video showing this pen's tear-down here: https://youtu.be/H57t0ZLfs1Y?t=42 but no the clear piece that joins the section to the barrel on mine just won't budge. Any ideas? I would like to take it apart, so I can either fix the nib properly or apply hot air or water to the feed to bend it upward to have it touch the nib's underside. The pen writes well, but has issues starting after not using it for a day because the ink that fills that gap evaporates. Thanks!!! alex
  4. Hello FPNers - I have a Sailor Pro Gear that originally came with a music nib. This nib wrote beautifully, but I don’t write music scores, so I wanted to convert it from a once-in-a-while writer to a daily writer. I hired a nibmeister to convert it to a medium nib, which turned out to be impossible because the ball tipping material wasn’t there. He reduced its size and made it smoother, but it’s not working for me at all. I’m open to suggestions, including nib replacement (is this possible on a Pro Gear?), alternate nibmeisters, etc. I don’t want to end up with a stub or anything unusual. I prefer standard medium or fine nibs, or perhaps a smooth cursive nib like Lamy offers. The Pro Gear is perfect for me ergonomically; I just need to get the nib right. Thanks, GNL
  5. Version 1.1

    822 downloads

    High resolution nib width measurement chart, from 0.1 mm to 2.0 mm stroke width, both horizontal and vertical. Width increments in 0.05 mm from 0.1 mm to 0.5 mm, thereafter increments of 0.1 mm. Includes comment fields etc. Requires printing at 100% and a minimum print resolution of 4000 dpi, on high quality laser or inkjet paper. Inkjet paper is preferred.
  6. Darthagnon

    Parker 45 nib wobble?

    I recently repaired a Parker 45 bent nib. It writes infinitely better than it did, but I've noticed the nib wobbles up and down a little bit (~0.5mm?) against the feed. This makes it feel a little bit floaty/brush-like/extra flexible (? my first gold nib, not sure how flexible it's supposed to be) when writing, and I suspect causes it to hard-start due to broken ink flow. Can anyone offer any suggestions to stop the wobble? Is it one of those pens that needs heat-setting to the feed with boiling water? Should I try jamming a bit of paper/plastic/thin rubber in there? Has anyone else had or fixed this sort of problem before? I'd sure appreciate any advice; thank you, once again, for the previous times you've helped me! Previously, the left tine was bent. I straightened it by rolling, which perhaps could have changed the shape of the rest of the nib (not that I can tell with the naked eye, though I do have a couple other 45s around I could compare to), allowing it to wobble. The feed is undamaged, and it writes "okay", quite wetly (gap between tines is probably a little wider than brand new, due to the repair). I'll post a writing sample/photos if anyone thinks they'd be useful... EDIT: Writing sample, using Diamine Matador ink. All Parker 45 lines are single, some of the reference Parker 25 lines are double (e.g. flames in the Ring verse). Noticeably more shading due to ink deposition.
  7. I recently purchased a brand new Pelikan M600 (Blue) with a fine nib, which I love, but I’m also interested in trying the medium nib in this pen. What reliable, affordable retailer would you recommend to sell me that medium nib? I’d be open to buying a used one in great condition, as well. Thanks! Gary
  8. I have a handlful of Vintage and new Pens. Parker Vacumatic, Parker Duofolds, Skyline Everysharps, Pelikan 400nn. Pelikan M200's, M400, Sailor 1911, Various TWSBI's. Inks: Only "wetter" inks. Aurora, Diamine, Waterman, Iroshizuku. Mostly blues. I have read that pens should be flushed or cleaned regularly to extend the life of the feed and nib and prevent ink drying out and build up. I have been using the above pens regularly, every 1-2 weeks or much more, for some time. Should I be emptying the ink and cleaning out the pens every so often? How often? Or, is it not necessary as long as the pens are inked and used regularly? Thanks for your help. jim
  9. Hello, I posted previously about my Visconti Rembrandt and it also had this problem with hard starts and skips every line. I was able to exchange it for a Van Gogh starry night, and sadly it's no better. The starts are really bad. I have to apply more pressure than usual to get it started, and then 5 seconds off paper requires another hard start. Either im extremely unfortunate or visconti has the poorest nib QC here's a pic demonstrating the issue,. Visconti Van Gogh Starry Night B Nib http://i.imgur.com/nDeSjan.jpg?2 If theres any way to fix this without sending it to a nib mechanic let me know pleaseee
  10. Dear all, (I hope I am posting in the right part of the forum. Apologies if I am not and, moderators, please help me move this message where appropriate.) TL;DR: This is about an issue with a 1970s Pilot Elite, Soft 18K Nib. I have never seen something like this before, but I suspect there is something wrong with the iridium tip of this pen. In plain English, I think it's missing. Could you please comment? Details: I just received a few pens from an eBay seller from Japan. One of the pens felt very scratchy on my thumb, so I started looking at its with 10x optics. Here are the photos, Figures 1-3, showing the nib overhead, sideways, and underneath, respectively. The original photo from seller seems to me to show the nib with tip, but I will not display it for now so I do not damage the reputation of the seller (which is high wherever I checked). My questions are: What do you think could be the problem? Is there a missing (iridium) tip? Is this reason to contact the seller and complain? What would be a typical request - money back? Is there any other way I could fix this? Can the nib be re-tipped? Who could do this and what would be typical expenses? Many thanks. Figure 1. Nib from above. Figure 2. Nib from the side. Figure 3. Nib from underneath.
  11. Disclaimer: I am new to vintage fountain pens. I recently acquired a Mabie Todd Swan (photos of the pen and some scribbles below) and would appreciate assistance with the following items: I know very little about this pen and would like to learn about its provenance, approximate age, model and comparison with other Swan models, etc. The body of the pen is marked "Eternal" but the nib is not. Does this mean that the current nib replaced the original? The pen is a very nice writer once the ink is flowing; it can feel very smooth, provides nice line-width variation as the nib is flexible and I think stub-ish, and it lays down a lot of ink. At the same time, it's prone to hard starts and occasionally skips. It also looks like the feed might not be properly aligned with the nib. I would like to have the nib examined and tuned by a professional and was thinking of sending it to Mike Masuyama. Does this seem appropriate, or are there other nib experts I should consider? I would like to have the body of the pen cleaned up and restored prior to getting the nib worked on, but I have no idea who to send it to. Any recommendations? In particular, I would like to have some luster restored to the body, have the fins of the feed looked at as they seem to have some minor damage, and have it cleaned up (the pen has a bit of a smell which, although gradually dissipating, remains pretty strong inside the cap). The tip of the nib looks a bit slanted to me. I know only so much is possible with photos, but can anyone tell if it's because this nib has an oblique grind or if it's some sort of alignment issue?
  12. I had bought a Benu that is a lovely pen but whose nib seemed "meh". I decided I would try a grind on it, but wanted to experiment with an inexpensive pen first so I tried a CSI (all remote, as this is Covidland) on a TWISBI Go, and thought it worked well but was a bit too wet. I sent the Benu off for the same grind, and got the Go adjusted to be less wet. Now that they're here I'm finding that they are difficult for me to write with comfortably, as they demand more precise positioning than I am accustomed to and my angle, rotation, etc. varies with where I'm seated and how I'm writing. The nibmeister suggested converting the Go to an RSI to see if that suits me better, and then depending on what I think I can either have the Benu adjusted or throw up my hands and replace the nib with a different one. Thoughts? My handwriting is a cursive/print hybrid. Are custom grinds not the best for people who don't always write in the same way? It had been such a long queue at the nibmeisters, too!
  13. E.H. Tersono

    Does a nib need to be straight?

    This is a medium Sonnet I just received, from a reputable shop, which was sold as "new old stock." The nib looks bent to me, but it writes pretty nicely. Perhaps a little scratchy in one direction, but wildly better than the custom ground nib I unexpectedly got from another shop. So this has me wondering, should the nib on this pen be straight? Or are there benefits to nibs shaped like this? Or is it a flaw that needs to be returned and corrected? (None of the photos on the site showed it from the side, so it wasn't clear that it would look like this when I ordered.)
  14. I recently bought my first Parker Sonnet, a used 1993 with a nib described as "springy and writes smoothly" and I was surprised to find that while it is indeed springy it's also very scratchy. I was surprised to find that my LAMY safaris and Kaweco sports are so much smoother and much more pleasant to write with. Is it me? Or the pen? It was sold as a medium nib, and it's marked "M" but I wonder if it isn't actually some kind of italic? Or if perhaps it's been ground down to this? Or is this normal for a Sonnet? My eyesight is quite bad which makes it hard to really deal with the details of nibs beyond others descriptions of them and my experience writing with them. But it looks strangely square to me, and it writes like that also. If I draw a line straight down it's thick, and if I draw across it's thin. I'm enclosing photos of the nib from the seller, they're better than anything I could take myself (though I know they aren't as high resolution as would be ideal). And some images of the lines and writing produced by the pen, using Pilot Iroshizuku Tsuki-yo on Rhodia 16, with the nib also visible there. I truly appreciate your help, advice, and thoughts about this nib. I'm a real beginner in this area, so my apologies for anything obvious that I might be missing. Thank you.
  15. Carrau

    Santini to Offer #8 Nibs

    On a recent visit to the Santini Italia website, I noticed an announcement that they will offer size #8 nibs in 18 karat gold beginning in October. https://www.santini-italia.com/
  16. Hi folks, I got this Parker 51 from Ebay for a total of $70 including shipping. I'm trying to figure out of the nib is a medium or a broad. The pen is Made in England. If it's a Medium, it's quite a bit broader than my Made in England Parker 45 medium nib. What do you folks think? I am writing on Mnemosyne paper. Thanks! The nib says "14K" "585" "Parker" "Made in England" and I believe that's about it. I'm interested because I never thought I would love a nib that's this broad. It works well for speech outlines because it's easily legible.
  17. Guest

    Heat Setting Nibs/feeds

    Is it safe to heat set vintage pens? Dip into hot water just deep enough to cover the nib and feed but not up to the section for about 30 seconds and then press the nib and feed together? Is this mainly for certain types of nibs?
  18. Hey guys! Normally post in the Japan pens forum but I picked up a TWSBI 580ALR from Mark Bacas with a special nib grind and I wanted to share some info about it. First off - the ALR is just like an AL except the cap band has a difference finish(?) and most importantly the grip section is 'ribbed.' The lines on the grip section feel amazing, really good to the touch. I consider it an upgrade from my AL, but you do have to be careful not to get ink in those lines because you would have to clean it out. Mark Bacas is a popular nibmeister. You can see his work at https://www.instagram.com/nibgrinder/ I got the 580ALR with a Blade Turk grind and if I had it to do over again I would send him my nicest pen because it's an amazing grind. The Blade Turk is a mini-architect grind with a gentle curve so you get a controlled gradation of line width from Platinum UEF to Japanese M. It's a really versatile tool. Anyone could just pick it up and write with it, but if you vary the angle up or down you can variation in width. An artist could probably build a whole career around this nib, as the more you use it the more you get to know what it can do and get the line widths you want without even thinking about it. Here's a video demo I made of the pen & nib: And here's an additional photoset: https://imgur.com/fpngallery/eXPLoO9 Mark Bacas deals TWSBI pens so I think you can just order a nib from him already ground to load into your TWSBI. This gives some additional options for nib types normally only found on Japanese pens, for example... or various architect grinds. Anyhow, I really love the pen and I'm considering sending him my King of Pen to work on next. This Blade Turk is just such an interesting and unique grind. I'd recommend it for any artist but also anyone who just wants an interesting fountain pen nib that is still appropriate for every day use.
  19. Dip n Scratch

    Parker Vector nib & feed

    Does anyone know the size of the nib & feed in mm? I was wondering about using the nib in a Wality.
  20. R531

    Bock 'platinum' Nibs

    Hi All, Just a quick curiosity. I was looking on Bock's website earlier, and they appear to make Platinum nibs labelled Platinum 950(95% platinum). I can't seem to find any info online about them, and there aren't any manufacturers that seem to use Platinum nibs in their pens. Can you purchase these nibs anywhere, and has anyone used them ? If so, what are they like ? I'd be greatly appreciative if anyone could share their knowledge. Cheers
  21. Hello everyone! I'm brand new to the world of fountain pens, and have a couple beginner's questions regarding my new Retro 51 Tornado. It came with a medium nib, which writes nicely, but I'd like to purchase a nib that allows me to vary my line stroke and write more calligraphically and personally. Before I look into flexible or italic nibs, however, I was wondering if my pen can even take replacement nibs; the nib doesn't seem to come apart from the nib assembly/ feed, so even if I knew the correct size to buy I'm not sure if my pen could take it. Do I have to purchase an entire new nib assembly (in which case, where should I look to buy them?) or does the nib disconnect in a way I'm unaware of? Thank you all, Alec
  22. Just J

    FPR Markings

    Is anyone here familiar with FPR's nib-marking conventions? I bought a couple of FPR's Majestic pens, one Clear with 1.0mm Stub & the other in Red with Med Nib. Both are pictured here together (pls see), and as easily discerned, the Stub is plainly marked as such, but the other (red pen) only shows what appears to be a tiny 'square', slightly offset left-of-center at base of the stamped 'nib' marking. Nowhere can I find anything resembling an 'M' for Medium. (2nd photo shows a little better view) Notably perhaps, there's also a distinct difference in the brand-markings on each. Both, btw, came in on the same order, not like weeks or months apart. Can someone who knows please describe what's going on here? I know NOW because it just came in & is fresh on my mind. But how do I know what it is when I pick it up again 6 months from now?. TIA!, _/_/
  23. This past Tuesday I received from the maker in India a new Ranga fountain pen, my first Ranga. While I wrote to the maker to ask how the apparently #6 nib and feed come out of the section, I've not heard from him (maybe because he and his son don't often look at their email service or maybe too busy due to the work load: I used mpkandan@yahoo.co.in which is inside the pen case). Therefore, I'm here to ask the same thing: do I simply pull out the nib and feed since they're both friction fit, or are both inside a housing/collar that unscrews from the section? [I know if both are in a collar, I can pull them out of the collar/housing.]
  24. Theroc

    Nib, The Game

    I found this browsing itch.io and found it interesting to say the least. Certainly worth a look. The nib is mightier than the sword. Literally. Here's the gameplay trailer:
  25. birdylo

    Lady Sheaffer's lost her head!

    I just received a vintage Lady Sheaffer 903 that was supposed to be in working order and had the nasty surprise that her nib (wraparound style 14k) does not stay on her feed section. All the parts are present (the washer and rubber seal too), so I spent about an hour cleaning everything thoroughly. I needed to chase the feed threads since they were seriously gunked up. Now the threads on the nib and feed section are clean and distinct, they just don't have enough contact to screw together. What should I try next? I would like to have a permanent solution but I'm not sure if I should get the epoxy so quickly. Based upon what I cleaned out of it, I think someone had tried shellac on it before... but that clearly was not a good fix.





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