Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'nib'.
-
nib swapping Swapping a regular 149 nib of a limited edition for a flex nib
AYChopp posted a topic in Montblanc
Hi I recently bought a used montblanc limited edition (4810 pieces) 149 by andree putman, which is basically a classic 149 with a special case, I sent it to get serviced. I contacted My Jewlery Repair (montblanc's authorized repair) if i can swap the nib of a regular 149 to the calligraphy flex nib & they said they could. My question is, since its a limited edition set will I totally ruin the pen's value if i would eventually sell it or it will upgrade the pen/set? I've attached stock images of the set, Thank You
-
Hi FPN, I have a Lamy Lx and have noticed that the nib <M> is particularly scratchy, and I am a beginner and have had it for just 4 days. In comparison to another Lx, mine is really scratchy to the point where it picks up fibres on the tip of the nib, and feels like it is dragging along the paper on some strokes (it sounds like a pencil, very much so! I notice that a downwards, upwards and right to left strokes are alright, but a left to right stroke is very scratchy. It is also scratchy for a left to right diagonal stroke. This leads me to believed that it is a misaligned nib, though I don’t know how to fix that (and what the left to right stroke being scratchy means [i.e, left tine backwards, towards, etc.] Another thing to note is that when comparing mine to another Lx, the space in between the tines on mine is smaller than that of the other one. I have sent Lamy a support message, I hope that they respond. Is it worth trying to fix it myself, as it will end my warranty (I believe). Perhaps the warranty will allow me to get a completely new nib (pen can’t be returned as it was a sale item)? Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated!
-
Hi, I have just received a Lamy Lx Palladium (I got on sale). I have noticed a couple of mishaps. Firstly, I noticed that there is a loose bottom finial- creating a rattling sound. I was able to use my finger to tighten it (in comparison to another one, it is not fully tightened- as seen in the photo by referencing the ‘Germany’ imprinting). However, it came loose again. Since tightening it again, it hasn’t. Is there any way that I can fix this, to prevent it loosening long term? I believe there is a hex thread in the bottom finial? A question about the nib. I noticed a grey streak on the right tine. I originally thought that it must be some sort of factory residue. I cleaned it and inked it up, however, have realised that it is still there. Could this be a spot on the nib where PVD coating is missing? Input on this would be great. And finally, a question about the feed. When capped, the feed remains black, though when uncapped, it fades to a greyish white colour. Is this normal, as I haven’t been able to find any information on this? Not sure if any of these issues or questions have to do with a slight problem I ran into. When loading a cartridge into my pen, after cleaning with a bulb syringe (with basically distilled water), and drying off, the ink just would not flow to the nib properly, as only faint grey lines came out (even after writing for a while). I tried everything to promote the ink to saturate the feed, including putting the pen upside down, gently squeezing the cartridge and writing with it. When cleaning it out, a faint pink colour came out? Anyway, I have since combatted this by using bottled ink (Pilot Iroshizuku), so as to saturate the nib and feed initially, and since I haven’t had any flow issues. Thank you in advance!
-
Hello everyone, I recently bought a vintage Pelikan 100N and the pen writes really wet and smooth. It has a full flex nib. But I have a problem, the tip of the pen is unfortunately not springy enough and the tip is not thin enough. Even when I don't apply any pressure it writes like a medium. My question to you is, can the nib be thinned with a nibmeister? Can it be converted to F or EF nib? Thank you very much in advance.
-
Sheaffer Lifetime Nib/Feed (Vac) - Will NOT go in (re-insert)...
Emc^2 posted a topic in Of Nibs & Tines
Hi all, I am finishing my repair of a Balance Vac, and I am trying to set the nib and feed, and they will not seat in the section far enough in! I have never had this problem before. I have attempted to reseat it about 5 times. Every time I find myself exerting more force than I believe is a proper amount and so I back off, say a few chosen words, scratch my head, knock it back out, and figure out what the hell is wrong. I have looked inside the section, I do not see any old nib edge marks to see where it was seated before (this is my fault for not doing this when I took it apart). I have rotated where I attempt to place the nib and feed when inserting it...the only other thing I can THINK of is to set the section in the freezer or fridge (for a brief few minutes) to get it to shrink and therefore expand the size of the section hole, but that is just pure speculation as I try to figure out how to get this darn thing back in. It is the nib and feed that came/original with the pen, so it's not that I am trying to replace these parts. I am out of ideas. Any suggestions? -
It is common among the community to say that gold nibs are not better than steel nibs. I disagree since most gold nibs are hand polished and tested one by one while steel nibs are mass produced in automated processes. So, in order for a steel nib to compete against a gold nib, it would need to be hand polished, hand finished and hand tested. Currently the only steel nibs that I am aware that are hand made are the Kaweco Premium Steel nibs (which cost $50 USD), , the steel nib of a Hero 40 years reform and opening special edition 英雄钢笔1978改革开放40 and Edison Pens. Maybe Faber-Castell steel nibs are also hand polished given their quality. But most steel nibs are not: Pelikan, Aurora, Lamy, etc. So, the question is what brands do you know that offer hand polished, hand finished steel nibs? Since today it was a cleaning day, I share a picture of a clogged feed and how I left it.
-
I’m considering buying a pen with the pictures nib. But as is obvious it is splayed. I know that from pictures alone it’s difficult to assess the problem. From your experience- does this look like something that could be fixed? And is it a diy-fix or something that would require a professional? kind regards thomas
-
Advice on vintage Onoto nib sizes and interchangeability?
velox brunneis vulpes posted a topic in Of Nibs & Tines
Dear fellow FPNers, I have recently acquired 2 vintage Onoto plunger fillers, a model 3000 with a No.3/ST nib, and a model 6000 with a No.3 nib. Could someone please let me know if the nibs And what does the "ST" on the No 3/ST stand are interchangeable? for? I look forward to your feedback Thanks in advance! -
Advice on vintage Onoto nib sizes and interchangeability?
velox brunneis vulpes posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
Dear fellow FPNers, I have recently acquired 2 vintage Onoto plunger fillers, a model 3000 with a No.3/ST nib, and a model 6000 with a No.3 nib. Could someone please let me know if the nibs are interchangeable? And what does the "ST" on the No 3/ST stand for? I look forward to your feedback Thanks in advance! Best, J -
14k gold means only the tip of the nib, right?
Fountain PenDa posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
Still my favourite pen after 25 years. It is tiny but I like it. (Not that I do not like to try my hand on an 149) But after so many years, I am still not sure (probably yes for this MB pen) what it usually means when you see 14k on the nib and wonder if it is only the very tip of it is made of 14k gold or the whole metal bit of the nib... Do you guys also have MB hommage a Mozart like in other variation of colour, materials etc.?
-
I have two 146’s. One pen is older and has the nib holes 180 degrees apart and the other is a more modern Bordeaux 146 with nib holes offset. I have tools for the older 146 but not for the newer nib hole 146’s. I really did not want to pay $40 $50 dollars for another tool. I read that the MAJOHN P136 was the size of a 146 and saw they had a take down tool. Per the instructions it looked like it would work on the nib assembly of a newer 146 Montblanc. So I decided to try an experiment and purchased this tool for $10 and free shipping. I purchased it Jan 30 and it arrived to me in Texas on Saturday Feb 11 Well it worked like a charm on the piston and more importantly on the nib assembly. I hate adding eBay links because in time they are no good for future searches but I thought I had to tell y’all to take advantage of this while you can. Someone else sells the same tools but it’s listed for “Montblanc use” and they want $20 for the tool and $20 for shipping. Hope this helps someone, it did me. Cheers,Ozzy https://www.ebay.com/itm/394315658418?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=OSSpmWOnTcO&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=bZUb89HITrK&var=662832818694&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
-
The PenBBS store on Etsy is offering a few 14kt Gold nibs in RF, REF, No.4 and N.15 calligraphy. $115 each. Only a handful left. They look impressive and I am severely tempted.
-
Flexible nib factory feed for Custom 743 won't seat fully
MythrianXeras posted a topic in Of Nibs & Tines
So I bought two flexible nib factory feeds for an FA-nibbed Custom 743 I got recently and the immediate thing I noticed is that, even after using considerable force to move the nib in, and making sure it was aligned exactly with the grooves cut into it, the nib sits about 1 mm further from the housing/grip than it did previously, and I'm not willing to use more force to insert it as I'm worried about cracking the grip. Is this a common issue with these feeds and will it be fine to continue using the pen as I normally would under these circumstances? -
Can anyone tell the nib size from this HQ image of a LeGrand Montblanc?
xdach posted a topic in Montblanc
In the recent times of King's Charles III ascension to the throne I have noticed the fountain pen nib he uses is very dominating - it looks really great on paper. However, I am not sure if this is just Montblanc conforming slightly differently to the other more 'standard' brands of Fountain Pen. For example, a M nib or OM feels more like a Broad etc. Are we able to tell from this image of the pen the nib? I think I can see a slightly different nib end here suggesting perhaps Oblique but wanted to see what you guys think? To me, the sidestrokes seem thinner than the downstrokes, no? I can confirm an OB is far too thick so I'm not sure if it's just a Medium or Oblique Medium?
-
I’ve been eyeing this pen lately, and from what I’ve heard it has a good 14k nib. However, it’s made of metal (aluminum) and I was wondering if it would damage the nib if I try to cap it. Will it scratch/damage the nib?
-
nibs Seeking /a/ vac fillers which have 1.5mm nibs and/or /b/ 1.5mm nibs which fit TWSBI vac fillers
KateGladstone posted a topic in Of Nibs & Tines
I’m seeking vac fillers which have 1.5mm stub or italic nibs (do they exist?) and/or 1.5mm stub or italic nibs which fit TWSBI GO and/or SWIPE vac fillers. Do these exist? (They need not be from TWSBI — I enjoy Frankenpenning.) Also, what chance is there of anyone being able to persuades TWSBI to resume making their 1.5 mm stub nib? Oh — by the way — what does TWSBI stand for, anyway? I assume that it abbreviates something, and that it may be abbreviating something in Chinese. I don’t know much Chinese, but I do know that a word which sounds like “bee” Is the Chinese word for a pen or pencil, So I wouldn’t be surprised to find that the company name is short for something Chinese. -
Title basically sums it up! I have just finished repairing a hard rubber Duofold, but in my excitement to get it writing again, I forgot to disassemble and clean the nib and feed before I glued the ink sac on. Because of this I'd rather not have to cut the sack off to clean the feed and nib. I do not plan of course to soak anything in pen flush; just rinse. With that being said, are pen flushes containing ammonia safe for the hard rubber and the sack?
-
It has two B s on it, the one on the left being flipped horizontally. Other than these two letters there are not any helpful marking on this nib.
-
Hello FPNers - I have a Sailor Pro Gear that originally came with a music nib. This nib wrote beautifully, but I don’t write music scores, so I wanted to convert it from a once-in-a-while writer to a daily writer. I hired a nibmeister to convert it to a medium nib, which turned out to be impossible because the ball tipping material wasn’t there. He reduced its size and made it smoother, but it’s not working for me at all. I’m open to suggestions, including nib replacement (is this possible on a Pro Gear?), alternate nibmeisters, etc. I don’t want to end up with a stub or anything unusual. I prefer standard medium or fine nibs, or perhaps a smooth cursive nib like Lamy offers. The Pro Gear is perfect for me ergonomically; I just need to get the nib right. Thanks, GNL
-
I recently purchased a brand new Pelikan M600 (Blue) with a fine nib, which I love, but I’m also interested in trying the medium nib in this pen. What reliable, affordable retailer would you recommend to sell me that medium nib? I’d be open to buying a used one in great condition, as well. Thanks! Gary
-
I've read that Lamy has released special Hanzi nibs in Asia. They seem to be on the "architect" side to aid with Chinese or Japanese writing. I can't write Chinese but I'm curious. Anyone used one? https://www.instagram.com/p/CYc46c2vLFN/ https://www.instagram.com/p/CYfVKvQvUKn/ But since when is there a matte red Safari? 🤔
-
I recently repaired a Parker 45 bent nib. It writes infinitely better than it did, but I've noticed the nib wobbles up and down a little bit (~0.5mm?) against the feed. This makes it feel a little bit floaty/brush-like/extra flexible (? my first gold nib, not sure how flexible it's supposed to be) when writing, and I suspect causes it to hard-start due to broken ink flow. Can anyone offer any suggestions to stop the wobble? Is it one of those pens that needs heat-setting to the feed with boiling water? Should I try jamming a bit of paper/plastic/thin rubber in there? Has anyone else had or fixed this sort of problem before? I'd sure appreciate any advice; thank you, once again, for the previous times you've helped me! Previously, the left tine was bent. I straightened it by rolling, which perhaps could have changed the shape of the rest of the nib (not that I can tell with the naked eye, though I do have a couple other 45s around I could compare to), allowing it to wobble. The feed is undamaged, and it writes "okay", quite wetly (gap between tines is probably a little wider than brand new, due to the repair). I'll post a writing sample/photos if anyone thinks they'd be useful... EDIT: Writing sample, using Diamine Matador ink. All Parker 45 lines are single, some of the reference Parker 25 lines are double (e.g. flames in the Ring verse). Noticeably more shading due to ink deposition.
-
Help with This Nib Issue - Is This a Missing Iridium Tip?!
OldTravelingShoe posted a topic in Japan - Asia
Dear all, (I hope I am posting in the right part of the forum. Apologies if I am not and, moderators, please help me move this message where appropriate.) TL;DR: This is about an issue with a 1970s Pilot Elite, Soft 18K Nib. I have never seen something like this before, but I suspect there is something wrong with the iridium tip of this pen. In plain English, I think it's missing. Could you please comment? Details: I just received a few pens from an eBay seller from Japan. One of the pens felt very scratchy on my thumb, so I started looking at its with 10x optics. Here are the photos, Figures 1-3, showing the nib overhead, sideways, and underneath, respectively. The original photo from seller seems to me to show the nib with tip, but I will not display it for now so I do not damage the reputation of the seller (which is high wherever I checked). My questions are: What do you think could be the problem? Is there a missing (iridium) tip? Is this reason to contact the seller and complain? What would be a typical request - money back? Is there any other way I could fix this? Can the nib be re-tipped? Who could do this and what would be typical expenses? Many thanks. Figure 1. Nib from above. Figure 2. Nib from the side. Figure 3. Nib from underneath.
-
I had bought a Benu that is a lovely pen but whose nib seemed "meh". I decided I would try a grind on it, but wanted to experiment with an inexpensive pen first so I tried a CSI (all remote, as this is Covidland) on a TWISBI Go, and thought it worked well but was a bit too wet. I sent the Benu off for the same grind, and got the Go adjusted to be less wet. Now that they're here I'm finding that they are difficult for me to write with comfortably, as they demand more precise positioning than I am accustomed to and my angle, rotation, etc. varies with where I'm seated and how I'm writing. The nibmeister suggested converting the Go to an RSI to see if that suits me better, and then depending on what I think I can either have the Benu adjusted or throw up my hands and replace the nib with a different one. Thoughts? My handwriting is a cursive/print hybrid. Are custom grinds not the best for people who don't always write in the same way? It had been such a long queue at the nibmeisters, too!
-
This is a medium Sonnet I just received, from a reputable shop, which was sold as "new old stock." The nib looks bent to me, but it writes pretty nicely. Perhaps a little scratchy in one direction, but wildly better than the custom ground nib I unexpectedly got from another shop. So this has me wondering, should the nib on this pen be straight? Or are there benefits to nibs shaped like this? Or is it a flaw that needs to be returned and corrected? (None of the photos on the site showed it from the side, so it wasn't clear that it would look like this when I ordered.)
