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  1. Hello FPNers - I have a Sailor Pro Gear that originally came with a music nib. This nib wrote beautifully, but I don’t write music scores, so I wanted to convert it from a once-in-a-while writer to a daily writer. I hired a nibmeister to convert it to a medium nib, which turned out to be impossible because the ball tipping material wasn’t there. He reduced its size and made it smoother, but it’s not working for me at all. I’m open to suggestions, including nib replacement (is this possible on a Pro Gear?), alternate nibmeisters, etc. I don’t want to end up with a stub or anything unusual. I prefer standard medium or fine nibs, or perhaps a smooth cursive nib like Lamy offers. The Pro Gear is perfect for me ergonomically; I just need to get the nib right. Thanks, GNL
  2. I recently purchased a brand new Pelikan M600 (Blue) with a fine nib, which I love, but I’m also interested in trying the medium nib in this pen. What reliable, affordable retailer would you recommend to sell me that medium nib? I’d be open to buying a used one in great condition, as well. Thanks! Gary
  3. Astronymus

    Lamy Hanzi nibs

    I've read that Lamy has released special Hanzi nibs in Asia. They seem to be on the "architect" side to aid with Chinese or Japanese writing. I can't write Chinese but I'm curious. Anyone used one? https://www.instagram.com/p/CYc46c2vLFN/ https://www.instagram.com/p/CYfVKvQvUKn/ But since when is there a matte red Safari? 🤔
  4. Darthagnon

    Parker 45 nib wobble?

    I recently repaired a Parker 45 bent nib. It writes infinitely better than it did, but I've noticed the nib wobbles up and down a little bit (~0.5mm?) against the feed. This makes it feel a little bit floaty/brush-like/extra flexible (? my first gold nib, not sure how flexible it's supposed to be) when writing, and I suspect causes it to hard-start due to broken ink flow. Can anyone offer any suggestions to stop the wobble? Is it one of those pens that needs heat-setting to the feed with boiling water? Should I try jamming a bit of paper/plastic/thin rubber in there? Has anyone else had or fixed this sort of problem before? I'd sure appreciate any advice; thank you, once again, for the previous times you've helped me! Previously, the left tine was bent. I straightened it by rolling, which perhaps could have changed the shape of the rest of the nib (not that I can tell with the naked eye, though I do have a couple other 45s around I could compare to), allowing it to wobble. The feed is undamaged, and it writes "okay", quite wetly (gap between tines is probably a little wider than brand new, due to the repair). I'll post a writing sample/photos if anyone thinks they'd be useful... EDIT: Writing sample, using Diamine Matador ink. All Parker 45 lines are single, some of the reference Parker 25 lines are double (e.g. flames in the Ring verse). Noticeably more shading due to ink deposition.
  5. Dear all, (I hope I am posting in the right part of the forum. Apologies if I am not and, moderators, please help me move this message where appropriate.) TL;DR: This is about an issue with a 1970s Pilot Elite, Soft 18K Nib. I have never seen something like this before, but I suspect there is something wrong with the iridium tip of this pen. In plain English, I think it's missing. Could you please comment? Details: I just received a few pens from an eBay seller from Japan. One of the pens felt very scratchy on my thumb, so I started looking at its with 10x optics. Here are the photos, Figures 1-3, showing the nib overhead, sideways, and underneath, respectively. The original photo from seller seems to me to show the nib with tip, but I will not display it for now so I do not damage the reputation of the seller (which is high wherever I checked). My questions are: What do you think could be the problem? Is there a missing (iridium) tip? Is this reason to contact the seller and complain? What would be a typical request - money back? Is there any other way I could fix this? Can the nib be re-tipped? Who could do this and what would be typical expenses? Many thanks. Figure 1. Nib from above. Figure 2. Nib from the side. Figure 3. Nib from underneath.
  6. I had bought a Benu that is a lovely pen but whose nib seemed "meh". I decided I would try a grind on it, but wanted to experiment with an inexpensive pen first so I tried a CSI (all remote, as this is Covidland) on a TWISBI Go, and thought it worked well but was a bit too wet. I sent the Benu off for the same grind, and got the Go adjusted to be less wet. Now that they're here I'm finding that they are difficult for me to write with comfortably, as they demand more precise positioning than I am accustomed to and my angle, rotation, etc. varies with where I'm seated and how I'm writing. The nibmeister suggested converting the Go to an RSI to see if that suits me better, and then depending on what I think I can either have the Benu adjusted or throw up my hands and replace the nib with a different one. Thoughts? My handwriting is a cursive/print hybrid. Are custom grinds not the best for people who don't always write in the same way? It had been such a long queue at the nibmeisters, too!
  7. E.H. Tersono

    Does a nib need to be straight?

    This is a medium Sonnet I just received, from a reputable shop, which was sold as "new old stock." The nib looks bent to me, but it writes pretty nicely. Perhaps a little scratchy in one direction, but wildly better than the custom ground nib I unexpectedly got from another shop. So this has me wondering, should the nib on this pen be straight? Or are there benefits to nibs shaped like this? Or is it a flaw that needs to be returned and corrected? (None of the photos on the site showed it from the side, so it wasn't clear that it would look like this when I ordered.)
  8. I recently bought my first Parker Sonnet, a used 1993 with a nib described as "springy and writes smoothly" and I was surprised to find that while it is indeed springy it's also very scratchy. I was surprised to find that my LAMY safaris and Kaweco sports are so much smoother and much more pleasant to write with. Is it me? Or the pen? It was sold as a medium nib, and it's marked "M" but I wonder if it isn't actually some kind of italic? Or if perhaps it's been ground down to this? Or is this normal for a Sonnet? My eyesight is quite bad which makes it hard to really deal with the details of nibs beyond others descriptions of them and my experience writing with them. But it looks strangely square to me, and it writes like that also. If I draw a line straight down it's thick, and if I draw across it's thin. I'm enclosing photos of the nib from the seller, they're better than anything I could take myself (though I know they aren't as high resolution as would be ideal). And some images of the lines and writing produced by the pen, using Pilot Iroshizuku Tsuki-yo on Rhodia 16, with the nib also visible there. I truly appreciate your help, advice, and thoughts about this nib. I'm a real beginner in this area, so my apologies for anything obvious that I might be missing. Thank you.
  9. Carrau

    Santini to Offer #8 Nibs

    On a recent visit to the Santini Italia website, I noticed an announcement that they will offer size #8 nibs in 18 karat gold beginning in October. https://www.santini-italia.com/
  10. Disclaimer: I am new to vintage fountain pens. I recently acquired a Mabie Todd Swan (photos of the pen and some scribbles below) and would appreciate assistance with the following items: I know very little about this pen and would like to learn about its provenance, approximate age, model and comparison with other Swan models, etc. The body of the pen is marked "Eternal" but the nib is not. Does this mean that the current nib replaced the original? The pen is a very nice writer once the ink is flowing; it can feel very smooth, provides nice line-width variation as the nib is flexible and I think stub-ish, and it lays down a lot of ink. At the same time, it's prone to hard starts and occasionally skips. It also looks like the feed might not be properly aligned with the nib. I would like to have the nib examined and tuned by a professional and was thinking of sending it to Mike Masuyama. Does this seem appropriate, or are there other nib experts I should consider? I would like to have the body of the pen cleaned up and restored prior to getting the nib worked on, but I have no idea who to send it to. Any recommendations? In particular, I would like to have some luster restored to the body, have the fins of the feed looked at as they seem to have some minor damage, and have it cleaned up (the pen has a bit of a smell which, although gradually dissipating, remains pretty strong inside the cap). The tip of the nib looks a bit slanted to me. I know only so much is possible with photos, but can anyone tell if it's because this nib has an oblique grind or if it's some sort of alignment issue?
  11. Dip n Scratch

    Parker Vector nib & feed

    Does anyone know the size of the nib & feed in mm? I was wondering about using the nib in a Wality.
  12. Just J

    FPR Markings

    Is anyone here familiar with FPR's nib-marking conventions? I bought a couple of FPR's Majestic pens, one Clear with 1.0mm Stub & the other in Red with Med Nib. Both are pictured here together (pls see), and as easily discerned, the Stub is plainly marked as such, but the other (red pen) only shows what appears to be a tiny 'square', slightly offset left-of-center at base of the stamped 'nib' marking. Nowhere can I find anything resembling an 'M' for Medium. (2nd photo shows a little better view) Notably perhaps, there's also a distinct difference in the brand-markings on each. Both, btw, came in on the same order, not like weeks or months apart. Can someone who knows please describe what's going on here? I know NOW because it just came in & is fresh on my mind. But how do I know what it is when I pick it up again 6 months from now?. TIA!, _/_/
  13. This past Tuesday I received from the maker in India a new Ranga fountain pen, my first Ranga. While I wrote to the maker to ask how the apparently #6 nib and feed come out of the section, I've not heard from him (maybe because he and his son don't often look at their email service or maybe too busy due to the work load: I used mpkandan@yahoo.co.in which is inside the pen case). Therefore, I'm here to ask the same thing: do I simply pull out the nib and feed since they're both friction fit, or are both inside a housing/collar that unscrews from the section? [I know if both are in a collar, I can pull them out of the collar/housing.]
  14. Theroc

    Nib, The Game

    I found this browsing itch.io and found it interesting to say the least. Certainly worth a look. The nib is mightier than the sword. Literally. Here's the gameplay trailer:
  15. birdylo

    Lady Sheaffer's lost her head!

    I just received a vintage Lady Sheaffer 903 that was supposed to be in working order and had the nasty surprise that her nib (wraparound style 14k) does not stay on her feed section. All the parts are present (the washer and rubber seal too), so I spent about an hour cleaning everything thoroughly. I needed to chase the feed threads since they were seriously gunked up. Now the threads on the nib and feed section are clean and distinct, they just don't have enough contact to screw together. What should I try next? I would like to have a permanent solution but I'm not sure if I should get the epoxy so quickly. Based upon what I cleaned out of it, I think someone had tried shellac on it before... but that clearly was not a good fix.
  16. Unluckily, the world 1st 3d printed nib was made by Pjotr Dumat. So, I should be the second one(lmao). Material is Co-Mo-Ti Alloy. In DLMS 3D printer EOSINT M 280 At first, it looked very Rough. So I decided to polish them. After 20 hours Polishment in 14 days: Next time if I have free time I will welding them with Iridium point.
  17. Brother Tea

    Very Wet, Very Smooth Writer

    I am a university student in continental europe on a search for a very wet, very smooth writer. I want to have the feeling of writing on glass, and I don't want to have to worry about the ink flow, while I am feverishly taking notes during class. The paper is not the problem because I use Oxford 90 gsm paper. Does anyone have an idea how to make a feed bleed more? Can anyone recommend a reliable very smooth and very wet pen that I could ask for for my upcoming birthday in April? When I say very wet and very smooth, I think of my grandfather's Montblanc 149 with a F nib. This is however not my pen or a student pen. I also enjoy the writing experience of my mother's Pelikan M200 (1988-1997) with a B nib, however the piston mechanism doesn't work anymore and because it's the Old Style I don't know where to bring it to have it fixed. Last year, I was still able to use a Kaweco Sport with an EF nib, which is a smooth writer, but it didn't have the flow to back it up, i.e. even after an attempt or two to make the nib wetter, I gave up on the pen. This year, I have been using a PenBBS 355 with a Jinhao M/B (0.7mm) nib. This pen writes smooth as well, and I have been able to make the nib much wetter, but twice I have pushed the nib too far, spread the tines, and now sometimes when I put down too much pressure the tines will separate and no ink will flow. Luckily, I have two replacement Jinhao nibs, but for now I'll stick with the wet nib I have. In the first half an hour of use, the pen writes exactly how I want it to, and it exudes ink as freely as what might be considered too wet for the japanese market. However, the feed cannot keep up, and soon afterwards, I have to put down pressure to get the same amount of ink on the paper. This is an endless feedback loop of wetting the nib, spreading the tines, and then fixing the nib to make sure the nibs don't spread too much. Any tips, tricks, and suggestions for a better nib and pen would be greatly appreciated.
  18. fingertrouble

    Summit S.125 nibs?

    Had a business seller on eBay sell a pen to me with a cracked nib and not mention it in the description - and was hard to see in the blurry photos! Really naughty and their response that 'at this price what do you expect?' for £20 when I have bought better pens for the same or less without a cracked nib AND those sellers were honest. Very lucky for them I didn't want the stress of calling eBay in. Yet I am worried if I give the pen back they will just flog it on to someone else the same way :-/ So I could return it or get a replacement nib - anyone know what nibs fit a Summit S.125? A Mk 1 I think, dark green marble http://summit.wesonline.org.uk/section105.html - it is a nice pen, despite the unfixable nib. I'd love a flex nib, if one of those will fit...but finding a genuine Summit nib might be hard. (Oh and another minor rant: they also sent it in a really thin cheap jiffy bag. No other protection. I was shocked. And yes they charged £3 extra for postage and packing! Thing is, all the other pens I have bought off eBay have been lovely people, and really well packaged, and as described - well bar a slightly bent Waterman nib but I think they weren't a regular seller of vintage pens/jewellery unlike this person. That's why I feel this is rather sharp practice and not just ignorance).
  19. What could be wrong with (or dirty or clogging) a nib? I have had two Preppies and one "disposable" Zebra with what I thought was a similar problem. I see plenty of ink and if I wipe the sides or back vent hole with a damp paper towel, ink immediately wicks out. But when I wrote, nothing came out. With the Zebra, I pulled the nib out and noticed with some magnifier help that there seem to be a teenie bit of dried ink between the tines. I scrubbed it with a cotton swab with some rubbing alcohol and sure enough some ink-color staining on the swab. I "deform" the nib a little bit to expose the inner-edges to the alcohol. I put the Zebra back together, and all is fine. I did the same with a Preppy, but it's still not writing. I recall now this is the same problem I encountered about 8 years ago and is why I gave away my Preppys. However, I want to try again. I should note that this is clogging on BayStateBlue. The cloggy Preppy is better with the included cartridge. The other non-clogging Preppy is filled with Monteverde. These Preppys are all newer models, not the ones with the painted colors on the nib-backs. (Too bad, they are cute.) Or maybe BSB is like any drier ink and I should "do something" to the space between tines? Or "deform" it a bit to be farther away from the black part? Thanks for any tips! Btw, I refilled a "disposable" blue Zebra with BSBlue and it writes terrifically -- thin lines, thinner than the Preppy 03 but maybe a little wider line than the Preppy 02. No hard starts and good cap-off time. Is anybody using Preppy+BSBlue?
  20. KingsCountyWriter

    Pilot Myu nib and date code

    I just acquired a Pilot Myu 701 that's dated 1171( November 1971). Above the date code is usually where the nib size is printed, but on this one, there is none. Every other Myu I own, which are newer than 1971 has the F marking above the date code. Those pens are from 1973-1976. Comparing the nib to a Pilot Custom Black Stripe from 1972, the line that the Myu makes looks like a F, but again, it's not marked on the pen. Does anyone have any insight as to why this is?
  21. I am looking for a particular fountain pen from Montblanc. I believe it is a Meisterstuck fountain pen. I have attached the photo. It is the middle one with a name color of what may seem to be like a Crimson red or some thing. Does anyone know which model this one is exactly? I first encountered this from watching a YouTube video of a guy I think his video or channel is called the gentleman gazette. Please let me know if you know of this model and if you know where I can buy one? Thank you very much for your time.
  22. I am about to make my first gold nib purchase and I'm unsure about which nib I should get. I am a lefty, over writer without a hook. I turn my paper/journal at a 45 degree counter clockwise angle when I write, so I write away from my body. I will be purchasing a Santini pen, I enjoy using the Pilot Metropolitan Cursive Medium and would like a similar, if not more refined writing experience. My choices are Italic, Left Oblique or Reverse Oblique. They also offer a 0.9mm Italic nib as an option to their 1.1 Italic. Any insight would be appreciated, I've had a recent bad experience with a TWSBI Precision Stub pen which I had to pass on to my wife as it proved to be unusable in my hands. I'd like to think it's a one off experience being a lefty, but I do not want to risk a similar experience.
  23. Hi folks, I got this Parker 51 from Ebay for a total of $70 including shipping. I'm trying to figure out of the nib is a medium or a broad. The pen is Made in England. If it's a Medium, it's quite a bit broader than my Made in England Parker 45 medium nib. What do you folks think? I am writing on Mnemosyne paper. Thanks! The nib says "14K" "585" "Parker" "Made in England" and I believe that's about it. I'm interested because I never thought I would love a nib that's this broad. It works well for speech outlines because it's easily legible.
  24. Aditkamath26

    Ground a few nibs...yay!!!

    Over the years, I've tried nib grinding and have destroyed quite a few of them in the process. But I've also gotten better Definitely not pro-level, but here are a few of my grinds. Writing samples to follow soon. I used a whetstone, and sandpaper to grind these. 1) Architect on Kanwrite Medium nib: 2) Needlepoint on a Wingsung 727 3) Stub on a Kanwrite broad Thank you for looking!
  25. I love my Parker vacumatic. Its nib is the best I’ve ever written with. It seems to be an extra fine/fine and though it doesnt have line variation like a stub or italic/ the line width isn't totally uniform and has some nice character. There is a wonderful almost pencil-like feedback. What modern pens would you recommend that have a similar feel? I’m guessing gold nibs? I’m tired of the likes of Kaweco nibs that feel like a nail and not as tactile.





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