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I need help... I was attempting to smooth out the nib on my TWSBI ECO using the cardboard sleeve included in the packaging. I just drew a couple figure eights at first. I checked on some regular notebook paper and... it was now a lot scratchier! Desperately, I drew more and more figure eights until I realized I had been making it worse and worse. Any advice on how to revive the nib? It was fine at first; I was just a little ambitious with the smoothness.

I have a problem with Kaweco Sport: I love their design (both in terms of looks and functionality - size, weight, robustness, etc.) but I hate their nibs. I bought one whose nib was just unusable, then I got a replacement nib and it works fine - but still, its feel is just not very good. I have looked at some posts about the possibility of finding compatible nibs from different brands ( https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/325830-kaweco-sport-alternative-nib/ ) but there doesn't seem to be any option that one can just plug in as if it were a Kaweco nib, without being somewhat versed in DIY. I'm not good at DIY at all, and it's not something I want to devote time to. Then I found out that the Kaweco Sport is a very old design, and that Kaweco used to be a different company - so I assume the nibs in vintage models are different. And I suppose they are better, because honestly, I don't think I have tried worse nibs than the current Kaweco ones (even €5 Chinese pens seem to be better in this respect). So I am hatching the plan to buy a vintage model, to see if I can obtain the design I like with a better nib. My question is: am I right in assuming that vintage Kawecos have better nibs, without the problems of the current models? And, since I have observed that they get more expensive the oldest they are, what time period should I aim at to get a decent nib? When exactly did they change from their previous nibs to their current, unreliable ones?

Hi. I'm planning on buying myself a Twsbi Eco just after Christmas, and I'm torn between which nib to get - A stub or a medium. Typically I write quite quickly, and reasonably small with a medium nib, but I really love the look of writing with a stub. There is a photograph of my handwriting written with a Waterman Gentleman with an 18k gold Medium nib, inked with Waterman Black ink. What do you think? Thanks!

Recently, I've messed my Pilot Metropolitan's nib. I love this pen, which is black and from animal collection. I'm using J. Herbin Perle Noire ink with this pen, however, while shaking the pen, it dropped ink sometimes, and I wanted to fix that by manually adjusting the nib. However, this newbie attempt resulted me having a bended nib, which leaked even more. This was a bad idea. I couldn't fix this behavior. I didn't want to throw the pen away, so I tried to find replacement nibs. I couldn't find a spare nib for Metropolitan, and I didn't want to salvage other pens just for that, so I checked other sources. While checking Aliexpress, I saw Wing Sung 659 and 698's nib is compatible with Pilot nibs, so I gave it a shot. It's $3 on Aliexpress (I bought with $2 feed which should be compatible with pilot also just in case). The feed looked almost identical, but didn't fit into pen (slightly larger), but the nib fit into Pilot's feed just nicely, and here it is. The replacement nib's tines are a little bit longer, but writes beautifully, and F is almost identical with Pilot's M. This "frankenpenish" attempt resurrected my pen. In the photo: Left: Pilot MR-3 (nib is identical with metro) with Pilot nib, Right: Pilot Metropolitan with Wing Sung nib.

Hello, I own a Parker Frontier with a cheap third party nib that I would like to replace. I happened to stumble upon a set of Noodler's #6 nibs for $6. I was wondering if those nibs would fit the Frontier. By the way, the Frontier has a plastic feed (not the ebonite feed that Noodler's has). The following link will take you to the site: https://www.gouletpens.com/collections/replacement-nibs/products/noodlers-art-nib-pack?variant=11884735823915 Even if they don't fit, feel free to make suggestions.

I am looking for a decent FP with a flex M-B nib and price not more than 100$ Please advise me Thanks

Dear all. I'm looking for a gold Wahl Eversharp epn. I found this (see attached file), but I see that include a New York Nº3 nib. Is that the right (original) nib? I can not see any 'Wahl' imprint on it, and I dont want to buy a pen with a replacement nib. Does some Wahl Eversharp gold pens include that kind of nibs? Regards, Wahl Eversharp pen nib.pdf Wahl Eversharp pen nib.pdf

Hello everyone, Today I just want to write an opinionated post about what I consider German fountain pens quality control. Please take note, this is my view, my opinion, and thus is highly subjective. I don't claim to write here about absolute truths, incontestable facts and scientific observations. Thanks. Over the years I have purchased dozens of nibs for Lamy as well as Kaweco and Pelikan. The rate of success was less than 20% overall. Maybe I am the most unlucky man on earth, but let me explain. I like EF nibs and not a single EF Lamy nib that I bought was smooth. They were all more or less scratchy, misaligned or toothy. I could live with that if I wasn't able to straighen them out and smoothen them with lapping film myself. Something I paid Lamy to do for me but they shamefully didn't and sold me a half finished product. Next, Kaweco. Now these other guys decided to go in the other extreme. They make all their nibs so smooth that they practically don't write. Yes. You buy a fountain pen just to look at it. Everybody complains all over the internet about Kaweco nibs having baby bottom and yet Kaweco completely ignores the problem. All my Kaweco nibs have this problem. Does every fountain pen customer have to become a nibmeister himself? Is this what the world of fountain pens is turning into? Then I spent a ton of money on Pelikans and found that the only nibs that write legible for me without writting just 30 words per page are the EF nibs. But all of them have flow issues and if you even try to adjust the flow, the smoothness is gone, the nib is ruined and again ... back to grinding and smoothing. I've found Japanese pens to be the highest quality of them all, but also the least attractive. While the Europeans are extremely expensive pieces of art that cannot write but look gorgeous and like true fountain pens should (at least in my personal opinion), the Japanese ones are of superb quality but ... I know that you can't make a fountain pen nib that can satisfy everybody, and I know that many people might actually not be bothered by a scratchy nib or a nib that skips a little every 3 words. The world is a vast place and there are many individuals in it, for sure. Some might even like writing with absolutely whatever writing tool they find on a desk, for them being more important what you write than how you write it. And some may exclusively type. But even so, I strongly believe that is is pretty common sense and has been established for a long time how a nib should write and it's only a matter of additional effort to bring it there. It's possible and I think it's better if manufacturers did it instead of their customers, just like going to a dentist shouldn't require that you fix your filling after you return home. I apologize to the readers that have German pens that write like a dream. And I tell them to cherish those pens even more now after they've read my opinions. I am sure there are many such pens out there.

A while back, I lucked into a couple of Sheaffer fountain pens in a batch of pens someone gave away. People here helped me identify one of the pens as a Triumph (the other is a Snorkel). I think the Triumph came with the three nib units from a Sheaffer calligraphy set--it has three italic nibs, in different widths. I don't always want an italic nib. My favorites are all regular F nibs. I've been googling around to see if I can find someplace to get a nib unit with a standard F nib for that pen, but have had no luck. Is such a thing available? Where would I find it?

Anybody know what ST means on a pelican nib . Marking is in the position usually occupied by the nib size . I am looking to find an extra feed and nib for my green stripe 400 which came with an HF . Seller of the ST marked nib claims it has nice flex but he is in Serbia and I am not and I don't know him so I have no idea what he considers nice Flex . Thanks . Eddie

Is this a common appearance on F-M nibs? The extra tipping on the face side of the nib. I didn't notice the baby's bottom while writing but it is definitely there although it writes very well.

Hi all. How do you adjust a very springy steel nib that resists adjustment? I'm trying to make my Visconti Rembrandt nib wetter but any effect I get is temporary as the nib eventually goes back to its original condition. Best regards

Hello all! Short version If anyone knows a steel #5 nib and feed that I can buy to replace my Visconti Rembrandt's I would be grateful. I am particularly interested in JoWo, but can be talked into something else. My TWSBI 580 nib fits, but not the feed. (feed is 44 mm long, nib/feed holder is ~22 mm). Long version I have a lovely Visconti Rembrandt, but it has some problems. I have played around with it, and I am pretty sure it's a feed or converter/feed starvation issue plus a dodgy nib. The nib looks like this under a 10x loupe (I know narrowing towards the tip is not a bad thing): http://i67.tinypic.com/erdjs6.jpg But even with a TWSBI (JoWo?) nib, the ink flow is not great, and gets drier as I write. I have soaked the feed in warm soapy water, cleaned with a toothbrush, cut the channel a bit with a razor blade...with some improvement. (inks: Pelikan Sapphire, MB Irish Green, Diamine Bilberry). I can't tell if it is an issue with the feed, or the converter, or both---or their interface: I tried it with standard short ink cartridges and and I seem to get the same problem, but it's hard for me to tell as my only cartridges are pretty saturated ink (D. Majestic Blue). Anyway, I don't really want to use cartridges and and I'm not certain there is anything wrong with the Visconti converter itself, though I note it doesn't have a plastic ball inside. Is that a major issue?Interestingly, if I simply take off the converter and put it back on (no shaking!), that is enough to briefly increase the flow: maybe this is a sign that the converter or the interface is a bit dodgy? Perhaps I should try another converter, but I've seen a few posts with similar issues here on FPN.The end of the feed looks like the sketch below. Would cutting this channel a bit wider make a difference? http://i66.tinypic.com/rcihw5.jpg I thought about sending off for repairs, but I'm not impressed with the tales I've seen here on FPN of similar issues with Visconti replacements. And anyway I'm an engineer and like hacking things together. I confirmed that a standard #5 should fit the pen (using a TWSBI 580), but I would like to try a new feed as well to see what a difference it makes. Any suggestions on one that will fit? (44 mm long feed, ~22 mm long nib/feed holder). I'm not impressed with a Bock replacement nib I bought recently (metal left in the slit, ends touching), so am looking for JoWo or something different. Edit: Sorry the images are so huge!

Hello all, I have managed to get a Platinum 3776 pen body without a feed or nib. Is there anywhere I can get a nib and feed (cheaply, I hope), for this pen? Any nib size will do for now as I'd just like to put this pen to use again. Alternatively, I'm happy to fit any non OEM feeds and nibs that simply fit this pen. I don't think other feeds will fit due to the very long tail, but I guess other no.6 nibs might fit in the end. So mainly need the feed, then a nib. Any help is much appreciated. Best

Hello Everyone, i haven't posted here for a while. I have been using just one pen and ink this year. Lamy 2k EF and pelikan smoky quartz. My nib caught on the inner cap and became a little scratchy. I then adjusted the alignment to make smooth. It worked! however now its become very very wet. Has anyone here worked on a Lamy 2k to make it drier and had success. Please post links if you can. thank you!

How do you get the nib out of the unit. It seems like they are almost glued in. Compared to getting a #6 nib free of it's unit dealing with the #5 is a bit of a swine. I got one unit with a Bock EF nib and I was going to get another with a 1.1mm Italic tip. I just want the nib removal to be easier next time.

Hi Recently, after watching a few reviews online, I decided that I'd like to get a Pilot Custom 823. I've heard they have great nibs, and I'd love to get a vac filler. The problem is that they're not available from any UK sellers that I know of. And importing from Japan would lead to import costs, and any issues with the pen/nib would be a pain to solve. Has anyone else in the UK imported the 823? If so, how much did the import duty/VAT cost you? Also, when I do figure out the best way to get one, I can't decide between broad or medium. Some people say the medium is just like a western medium, but some reviews say its more like a fine. Any advice? Thanks

I found this in a local antique store for what might be a very good price. I'm rather new to Sheaffers, having grown up in a mainly Parker family, but am very impressed with the Snorkel and Vac-Fil that a friend gifted me last year. So I grabbed this pen when I saw it. I THINK it is a short slender Balance, but I am quite confused about nomenclature from my recent reading. In addition, this pen is clearly marked as Canadian, and has the fattest nib I have ever seen that isn't a music or italic nib. It needs a new sac so I haven't written with it yet to see the actual line thickness, and I am also confused about the proper sac size (after spending about 3 hours searching the topic). What is definite is this: 1. It's a Canadian Sheaffer as can be seen from the very good condition impression on the barrel, which says "W. A. Sheaffer Pen Co. | (of Canada, Ltd.) Malton, Ont. | Pat. 1936". 2. It is short, 120mm = 4.75". 3. It is slender, 0.423" at the widest part of the barrel. 4. It has a fairly wide sac nipple: 0.272". 5. it has a white dot and the nib is a Lifetime two-tone. 6. It's green 7. The clip is the flattened ball with Sheaffer inscription. 8 The nib looks very wide. Questions: 1. Is my general ID correct (short slender Balance)? Is there some other model name that goes with this pen? 2. What is the correct sac size? Pensac seems to suggest a #18 if I'm deciphering the model and chart correctly, and that fits the barrel and nipple, but the x/64 rule would imply a #17.5 for that nipple size. Richard Binder's site says to use a #15 for slender Balances if using the original lever. I have 16s and 18s on hand. What should I really use? 3. Is the proper color name Marine Green striped? 4. I've resacced a few Esterbrooks but and got this Balance apart easily with a variable temperature heat gun I have, but I am no expert on pen repair. I bought this pen to be a user, but other than some corrosion or dirt on the underside of the clip and ambering of the ink window it seem to be in very good condition. Roughly what would be the value of this pen? Is the value high enough that I should have it fully restored by a pro or should I continue to play with it? 5. I know the real test is how wide does the nib write, but I was wondering whether Sheaffer made a BB nib in the 1930s, or would this probably be a B? From certain angles it looks slightly stubby, but I suspect it really isn't. I appreciate any guidance those more knowledgeable about Sheaffer's can give me.

I don't know if Lamy Dialog nibs can be swapped like a Safari or Imporium. If it can be done without having to send it to Germany, how do I do it? And is it the same kind of nib that is used in the CP1 platinum? Thanks!

Hello all! As stated in my introductory post, I recently purchased a pen from a woodturner. He only sold pens with a medium nib, which is too big for my writing style. Because the nib writes very smoothly, I want to buy the same make if I can. Being a fountain pen newbie, I thought I could find the nib online by searching for what it is stamped with, "Iridium Point Germany." You experiened users will know that this led nowhere. I was, however, able to find a turned pen with the same hardware as mine. The kit for it had been purchased from Penn State Industries (US), so I emailed that company in the hope that they would sell me a fine nib. Turns out that they only sell medium nibs as well. The representative said that I could use any "Waterman style" nib in the pen. I emailed the Goulet Pen Company, whose videos have been helping me with the fountain pen learning curve, to see if they would know what the Penn State Ind. representative meant and if any of their nibs would work. Though kind and helpful, the Goulet representative was unsure what the woodworking supply company would have meant by "Waterman style," so she directed me here. Long story short: anyone know what would be meant by a "Waterman style nib"? I would have attached a picture of the medium nib that is currently in the pen for comparison but the picture I uploaded in the Introductions board took up all of my MB allowance without my noticing.

Just want to share with all FP enthusiasts here, the manufacturing video of Platinum 3776 gold nibs: [media=400] [/media] Love the work ethic and passion shown in the making of the nibs (and with nice cheerful music to boot). Although kind of awkward to see some of the forced smile at the end (IMO). Sorry if this has been posted previously.

Does the Jinhao 599 take a standard #5 nib?

Hi everyone. I have a 146 bought at auction some time ago. Unfortunately I never really used it as it is leaking from around the nib. I was hoping someone could provide me with contact details for John Sorowka or another alternative for repair. I want to see other options than sending it to montblanc (170). Or maybe the montblanc price is good. Im just not sure. Many thanks in advance. Oh Im based in Ireland. M

Hello, New to the forum but I have a question regarding the Visconti Silver Dust fountain pen that I recently bought. After reading/watching reviews on the Visconti Silver Dust with the palladium nib I thought that this would be the ideal pen for me as I'm planning on flying for work and like writing with a fountain pen. The design of the pen also was attractive to me. Living in the UK and had previously used the UK shop before to order online. I decided to use the same shop which offered the silver dust in the steel tubular and dream touch versions. I ordered the extra fine in dream touch and when they said they only had an extra fine nib in two tone, rather than the one tone palladium that I've seen everywhere else. I didn't think too much of this. However, I think what has been sold to me is originally the steal tubular nib version with the nib replaced with a palladium one. My reasoning for this is that the outer packaging states "KP16-01-FP1M Opera Silver Dust Demo Pen Tubular M", looking at Visconti's own website from my own understanding for the dream touch nib would be KP16-01-FPS. The pen also came with the snorkel and looking at it next to the nib, just eyeballing the nib next to the snorkel I do not think it would fit. When I had been looking at this pen online the dream touch version should come with a travel inkwell instead of the snorkel. In the end I'm thinking of returning the item as it isn't what I expected when paying a premium price, I think if the shop had been more up front that they were replacing the nib from what came out of the box I wouldn't feel so bad. Just curious who else has bought this model of pen and the version they bought and what they got out of the box.

Fascinated as I am by Parker Duofolds, though can't bring myself to break the psychological $300+ FP barrier, I was drawn to a world of Duofold Look-Alikes, such as the Pilot Lucina. However, on receipt of the Lucina, I realized it is a SMALL pen. NIb is great (Steel, but very nice) but the body length just barely adequate when posted. However, due to a large inventory of pens, I'm prone to experimenting. So, I tried threading the section of a Lucina into a 1970's Parker Big Red ballpoint/felt tip shell. And who'd have thunk...it actually worked out kind of nice! The extra length of the Big Red body makes it more comfortable to write with, and the step-down to the Lucina section is not that bad - and I have profound hatred of excessive step-downs (looking at you, Metropolitan!). Unlike previous Frankenfolds (Pajaro's Cross Solo hybrid) this one will fit a converter, though I prefer using the Pilot cartridge. Unfortunately, the Con-70 will not fit (too wide for barrel). Hey, if Cross can use Sailor nibs why can't Parker use PIlot ones? Sailor nibs....hmm...where's my spare 1911... Correction: Pajaro states it does fit with a Solo section/Parker Nib + green "push in" Cross converter.