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I finally have the funds to purchase the ever so lovely Edison beaumont. I have been wondering though how the extra fine nib is. If anyone can tell me their experience with the edison EF nibs (scratchiness, wetness, etc.) it would be very appreciated. Thanks, ~Phil
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Howdy, I'm currently waiting for bidding to close on this pen: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA2NFgxNjAw/z/pVEAAOxydlFSvZoI/$_57.JPG REALLY bad image, but it the best overall shot on the auction. So the guy has it listed as an Imperial 330 - Afaik, the shape could possibly be, but I wasn't aware they came in Touchdown and I can't find anything to suggest they did with a google search. The 14k nib also gave me pause, but that could just potentially be because he did a nib swap. Is this just an Imperial IV that's been incorrectly identified? Also, the colour is just really washed out in that pic, it is actually golden coloured. Also, this will be my last "help me figure out this pen" because, god help me, I'll have a sheaffer imperial by the end of this week if it kills me
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How Is My Handwriting I Want To Improve Please Help Me
Shahab Mirza posted a topic in Calligraphy Discussions
Hello fountainpennetwork.com, My problem is concerning handwriting, I have been struggling to improve my handwriting since years but could never been satisfied with my own handwriting so I moved to www.fountainpennetwork.com, I have attached photos showing my handwriting, I write in 20 different fonts but I am confused which handwriting should I use in college and exams, please see my handwriting in photo attached and tell me which one should I finalize as my handwriting and please answer following questions. 1: Can I use Italic writing in exams? 2: Is it better to write on the line or in middle of 2 lines? 3: Is Italic writing good or non Italic? Looking at my photos tell me which writing is suitable for me and help me improve my handwriting. Should I write in such a way that bottom of letter touch line or should I write in middle of line help me please. Thanks and please reply quickly its urgent please Thanks.- 12 replies
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I have a Sheaffer 100 fountain pen, it has a 2 tone nib and the point (tip) has been destroyed. I would like to know: a. where to get a replacement nib for this pen b. how to replace the nib if i have to replace the nib on its own
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I recently bought a "BBB" nib Parker Tellevisor (Canadian?, 1940s?) which is quite a decent pen but has most of the tipping missing from one tine. I doubt that one could find a Televisor nib now but would any other Parker nibs fit? How difficult would it be to change it?
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Hey, So a while back I acquired two used Parker 45 pens, one with a 14k extra fine nib and the other with a steel Fine. Unfortunately, the 14k nib seems to have been either worn out, or badly ground...it writes as thick as a Japanese M, and has such a tiny sweet spot that it's immensely difficult to use. A tiny bit off and the pen bites into the paper. I made sure the tines are aligned, and spread them a tiny bit to make it wetter which seems to have helped a bit, but it's still not very fun to use. In addition, my other P45 kept getting ink all over the inside of the cap, as well as the section. I couldn't figure it out and packed away the pen for a while, and only took it out today. I had stored it cap off, but I now realize the whole section is warped, so the nib doesn't even point up anymore, it slants slightly. At this point I'm considering just sticking the steel nib onto the section of the other pen (with a problematic nib), but it seems to be a bit of a waste... Are there any easy ways to fix the 14k nib and/or the warped section? I'll try to post photos later. Thanks! edit: Here are some photos! http://i43.tinypic.com/295cs5u.jpg http://i42.tinypic.com/rup8og.jpg http://i41.tinypic.com/1y1t87.jpg http://i43.tinypic.com/2guz91u.jpg
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Just looking for some info about this dip pen my grandmother gave me a while back. I was going to use it for drawing lettering for fun. I know its an Aikin and Lambert no6 Pen. The number 6 is on both the pen and the nib. Thank you for reading my post and I hope to see some informative replies. Marcus http://i.imgur.com/TQNXxQR.jpg http://i.imgur.com/igrRiKj.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/yOOYbuJ.jpg
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I recently purchased a Lamy Safari fine nib as my re-introduction to the world of fountain pens. I have had a couple observations/issues, though: -The pen writes extremely broad lines, especially on cheaper paper. It is definitely not what I would consider a fine nib, it seems more like a full-fledged medium. On better paper the performance is finer, but it still seems rather broad. (I have used an admittedly small sample of inks: Lamy Blue, Noodler’s 54th and Noodler’s Bad Blue Heron (the Noodler’s were definitely worse for line width, and also terrible nib creep!) ). -The nib seems scratchy. There is a definite scratchy noise when writing, not matter on what type of paper. This is alleviated somewhat if I hold the pen at an extremely low angle, but if I write at what I would consider my normal angle (about 60 degrees or so) there is a sound, and also a feeling, that occurs when writing. My questions is, are those two conditions normal for this pen? I was made to understand that writing with a fountain pen should be smooth, which is how I remember it from years past. Having been using ballpoints for quite some time, coming back to fountain pens is indeed smoother, but not as smooth as I remember it, and I certainly don’t remember the scratchy noise and feedback. And, as a related aside, are gold nibs generally smoother than steel nibs? I know that might be a can of worms, and there indeed may be no actual consensus, but I was curious...
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I am looking for some help regarding Pilot replacement nibs. I have a 742 custom I got with the FA #10 nib. I really liked the nib and I was going to have it sent off to grind it down to a finer point. I left it wrapped up on my desk ready to box up and ship out after work. But before I go back home someone apparently mistook it for trash and out with the garbage it went. I have been trying to find out if it is possible to buy a replacement nib only or not. So far it seems I would have to buy a whole new pen. Any info would be great, or anyone that might have an FA nib they care to sell. Thanks.
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Recently, I acquired a vintage Parker 51 Vacufill. It's a really pretty pen; India Black barrel, Gold filled cap with a perfect Blue Diamond and jewel and a fine 14k gold nib. The barrel says its 1st quarter 1948 and the nib is stamped 1947. This was an eBay pen, and seller purported the pen to be cleaned, flushed, re-sacked, and in good working order. Contrary to the best advice, I filled the pen with Montblanc Midnight Blue (the old batch) and observed a little bit of tooth, a very fine and somewhate dry line. After a short while, I emptied the pen and soaked her for about 20 hours ... re-inked her in Diamine Evergreen and tried again. She remained toothy and writing on the dry side. I flushed and soaked her again, and inked her up with Shaeffer Black Skrip, which my other Parker 51s absolutely thrive on. Same result .. she wrote fine and dry for about a paragraph or so, and then quit altogether. Time for a look under the hood, pardon the pun. The hood was removed (strangely, without any heat) to inspect the collector and the breather tube. The tube, was a plastic replacement type (fine with me I think) and the collector was soaked in pen flush (soap, water and some ammonia) for 30 hours ... I managed to get the collector clean enough, though it was badly stained, but the fin gaps were very clear and the breather tube as well. Long story long, reassembled, inked up with the Diamine Evergreen. She was nice and wet for a paragraph or two and then slowly and completely died away. Although the genius of the Parker design has become evident to me, I'm thinking the issue here is a nib issue. The right side of the nib looks a little worn compared to the left, but I'm not sure that is the issue or not. Other than that, I'm fairly well in the dark here and ready to send the pen out for a professional remedy. Anyone have any input before I box her up? Do I send her to a nibmeister or a general repairman? I'm confounded for the moment and would like to hear the general brainstrust, perhaps others with a common experience ... I also obtained a Parker 51 Aerometric from eBay around the same time, a 1954 Special, and it is the sweetest, most reliable and enjoyable writing instrument I own, or close. Thanks .... Parker 51s ... I certainly DO get it!
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A Franken-Plumix has come my way - it has one color body, anther color cap, and is missing the nib. Reading carefully on FPN, and calling a supplier or two, it seems that: Pliot does not sell nibs for these pens Pilot Varsity nibs will not work Generic nibs will not work But nibs from Pilot Prera, 78-G, Plumix and Penmanship should be replacements for each other. So... if anyone happens to have nib for any of these, and no longer has a workable pen to go with it, and would be interested in getting rid of that nib, maybe we can work something out. (I know the pens are not expensive. It's more the challenge here...) T
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I'm a student and am trying to find a good pen setup for myself. I'm a bit heavy handed with a pen; I tend to ruin ballpoints by pushing the ball upwards with a little writing, and with felt tips tend to grind the felt tip down before the ink runs out. I decided to try a Pilot Vpen and it went really well as I developed a lighter writing style with it (which helped with hand cramps too). As Pilot Vpens are pretty expensive throwaway pens I was thinking of getting a re-usable fountain pen when my friend gave me a Lamy safari for my birthday. I'm now finished the first cartridge but have had quite few problems with it and am hoping I can change some things to get it working well so it can be my main pen. The problems I've had are mainly that the ink doesn't flow very well or very fast especially compared to how the Vpen worked. With the Vpen I was able to write really quickly but with the Lamy I had to write slowly or else I'd have sections of my writing where no ink came out and so letters were missing. Also, after a while the ink from the nib dried up completely. I removed the nib and ran water through it and it worked again for a while before becoming quite scratchy. I have a size M nib - would an L nib be better at letting the ink through without clogging up? Also, a problem I had with both fountain pens was that when I used a highlighter over my writing the ink became very pale - would that be because the ink is water-based? Is it possible to get a fountain pen ink that doesn't do this? Finally I'm wanting to switch to a refillable cartridge and find a different ink. Is it likely that I could find a cheap ink to use with the Lamy that won't clog up? As a student I do a lot of writing but don't have a lot of money to spend on stationary.
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My hands are trembling and my mind is numb with disbelief. The tactile sensation of writing with the Pilot Metropolitan (F) is amazing. Actually, there is no tactile sensation at all. The nib glides so smoothly across the paper that my thoughts have trouble keeping up with it. This is one fine nib, perfect for taking notes or going on bursts of free-writing. It's a little puzzling that it took me by such surprise, because I've had prior experience with Pilot Prera (F), which to my knowledge uses the same nib and is previously the smoothest pen I had. Yet this nib feels much smoother, with ink and paper as constants (Pilot Blue and Muji notebook). However, I don't dare suggest that there is variation in quality since Pilot is sort of synonymous with consistency... I suppose one can only expect the best? I know some fp aficionados like feeling feedback from the nib during writing, but for others, I highly recommend this fp, even if it means backtracking a little into "lower-end" fp's. That's what I did... and I have never been more surprised.
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I am very new to this, I have a smallish budget, I like to tinker. I have seen numerous vintage pens on ebay that were missing nibs or had nibs that pretty clearly looked like goners. For something like a Mid-century Parker I am sure there is some set way or ways to get these nibs/send them off to be replaced. However, if I wanted to replace a missing nib in a vintage pen, where would I start? This does not strike me as easy, and I am pretty sure it is even less easy than it strikes me, but I figure if I never ask I will never know more than I do now... T
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I am having a hard time with this Konrad and the nib looks different to me than the nibs on the other Noodler's pens I have. Here is the best shot I could get of it... opinions? (the picture will get bigger if you click on it)
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Are there any reliable ways to make cheap nibs last? Do they handle converters better than cartridges, and/or do they need more diligent maintenance?
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I apologise if my question is somewhat frequent here but I am in need of advice. A couple of years ago I bought Lamy Studio as my first fountain pen and I am still very happy with it. However, it has a sturdy stainless steel nib producing lines with no width variation. My question therefore is: are the gold nibs fitted into common not-so-expensive pens (under or around $100) capable of any line variation or would I need to pay a rather hefty sum of money for such a feature? Just to be clear -- I am not talking about anything Spencerian-like, just a moderate line variation to add a little flair. If any such pens are commonly available, which would you recommend if:the pen would either have to have a piston-filling mechanism, or a converter would have to be available (I am not a fan of cartridges);size of the pen should be around that of Lamy Studio, i.e., length at least around 130 mm (capped; Studio: 140 mm), diameter ~13 mm; weight at most ~25 g (Studio: 30 g, but this can get a bit too much if one writes for a long period of time); andF or EF nib should be available. From what I have read online e.g. some Pelikans might be a good fit, but [a] I would like to be sure and I would like to know all my options before making a purchase. In case you need more information to make a recommendation, just ask and I will try my best to provide a comprehensive answer. TIA,nvx
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I like Rotring fountain pens. Yes, they are inexpensive and that's part of the problem, they aren't usually worth fixing. I have a Rotring APC Initial, I dropped it and the nib is a mess. I can't find replacement nibs anywhere (pen hasn't been made in years). The nib tip looks pretty generic - no special shaping. Pulls out of and away from the feed very easily, Is there any reason why a $10 nib tip from ebay (or wherever) won't work with this pen? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
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For context, a few words about me first... I grew up writing with fountain pens from kindergarten through graduate school... First using Pelikans then mostly Lamys (For math and engineering)... So I know a thing or two about fountain pens and nibs... I have an ok collection including some Montblancs from that time... Fairly recently I've decided to use fountain pens again at work. So I became first a lurker, then a member here. After much research offline and online - in particular on this forum, I've recently bought a Pelikan M805 in all black. Needless to say that I am totally in love with it!!! That takes us to the topic of this post... Richard Binder I had a very bad prior experience with a very established and reputable store in town, which completely ruined a new Kaweco Elite, that I had bought online and simply wanted to be a bit wetter. They still owe me a replacement after approx 6 months! Decided not to make the same mistake again, I followed the advice read on this forum and ordered the M805 from binderspens. "Binderization" was what attracted me. And indeed, I am so delighted with Richard and Barbara's service that I felt compelled to write this post. First they sent me exactly the pen I had ordered, with a slightly broad M nib due to Binderization. So I contacted them to replace or fix the nib and make it slightly narrower. They both very kindly responded to my many emails asking for advice (e,g., about ink), and prompted me to include writing samples. As a result, they reground a nib to my EXACT specifications, and sent me back not only the nicest pen, but also the best writer I've ever had!! In an age of consumerism and mass online orders, where employees at brick-and-mortar stores often have no idea about fountain pens, Richard and Barbara's services are an island of honesty, kindness and simply good craftsmanship! Thank you! CP
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Recently, by dad brought back two Hero fountain pens, a 7018, and a 7029, both medium nibs (did not actually say on the pen or packaging, my estimate) from china. Both were about 15 USD. The 7018 went to my brother and I got the 29. Within a week, by brother had dropped it nib-first. The strangest thing was that the nib tip did not sustain serious damage. The tines were misaligned, but that was corrected. However, the nib had been pushed into the pen, and since then, I haven't been able to get it out back to where it was (and have been unwilling to try). Top is the 7029, bottom is the 7018 Is there any way to get it pushed out back to where it was? Is it better to leave it the way it is? (it still writes, and I haven't seen a large difference in flow, etc.) (note where the gold flower is)
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Everyone is probably aware that Pelikan over last year have started dramatically reducing their nib range. After speaking to a contact who has been conversing with Pelikan, they will only be producing: EF F M B Stopping BB & All Oblique Nibs! The question that I would like to pose is, if Pelikan did a production run of 500 nibs for say the M800 & M600 range. The 500 nibs split into 250 of one type of nib & 250 of another. Which Nibs would you like to see production of: Italic: 1.1, 1.3, 1.5, 1.7, 1.9 Stub Nib. Please leave a choice of two nib types! & How many people would be interested in buying one of the pens with reproduction nibs...? Thank You Regards rrs
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Is The Kaweco Sport Classic Supposed To Be A Smooth Writer?
WhatsNewSisyphus posted a topic in Other Brands - Europe
I got a sport classic EF, it was super scratch and the nib was actually slit not in the middle, weird I know, anyhow, I ground it to balance but it still is a very dry writer that takes pressure to write unlike all my other pens that just hydroplane on paper by their own weights. Before I ask customer support to send me a replacement section, I wanted to check with you all to ask how it is supposed to be writing. -
I'm an aide for the shop teacher at my high school, and in my off time I've been working on a rough plan to make a fountain pen nib using the various tools available in our work areas (we're sponsored by a lot of manufacturing companies, so we have plenty of toys). This is my first attempt at making a nib, and while I feel I have the right idea with my plans that I've drawn (I'll post a picture as soon as I can) I would feel so much more confident if I could see a plan or diagram of a nib with measurements
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I have a Laban Celebration Oyster that has a badly corroded steel nib. Can anyone provide me with the Laban nib part number for a medium and/or broad nibs? I searched the forums but did not turn anything up. Also, does the Celebration have the same cap top seal issues the Mento seems to have? THANKS!
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Broad,, Medium, Fine Nib Sir? NO THANKS! - will be the answer that follows. No longer will these nibs be looked at, due to John Hall(A true honor meeting this gentleman. Delightful & Outstanding customer service) here in the UK. At the recent North UK pen show I acquired a OMAS Arco Verde, hi trim with an italic nib. There lies the culprit, the OMAS Italic nib. I have not been able to put the pen down, by no means am I an expert on using this type of nib. But with practice have used this pen and can now write with certain amount of speed! Still little scratchy on paper but only when I mistakenly change angle of nib. My Question: The love affair has started hehe. I am currently deciding do I go for a OMAS Stub Nib OR Visconti Stub Nib? Any suggestions? Anyone with experience of both nibs? Could someone point in right direction to see writing samples for both nibs? Help! Thanks rrs.