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  1. After starting my addiction hobby with fountain pens I soon realized that there is far more to this than just the pen itself. 1. Pen - Needs to be comfortable to hold and write with, and perform well. It's very personal choice. 2. Nib - Without a good nib, the pen is useless. It should be one that you enjoy not only writing with, but are pleased with what it produces on paper. 3. Ink - I like a smooth ink, moderately saturated, with great shading. Others seem to like something akin to paint, but that's not my preference. Some nibs and inks are meant for each other. Others clearly are not. 4. Paper - You may have the nicest pair of roller skates/blades, but if you're trying them out at the sand dunes, you'll be sorely disappointed. Similarly, the paper should be fountain pen friendly & one that you enjoy writing on. What is your favorite combination of the three? I have a lot of favorite combinations, but my current favorite: 1. Mabie Todd Swan - 1920s BCHR self-filler 2. Super-flex fine 14k nib - very expressive 3. Waterman Blue-Black (1980s) 4. Zander's Gohrsmühle (great German paper with a really cool watermark)
  2. I bought a A. G. Spalding fountain pen about 15 or 20 years ago. Never used it. Recently I became interested in improving my handwriting and bought some fountain pens. I found my brft250 model and tried to used without success. It was empty and I think that it had never been filled with ink before, but when I try to write with it, nothing happens. Its nib must be dirty. I would like to know if this model can have his nib removed for cleaning or I will damage the pen. I would appreciate any help. I tried do clean the nib with water but I failed.
  3. Ok I replaced the sacs on the Waterman 512 1/2 PSF, 452, and Lady Patricia. I tested them with Noodler's Black Eel, a lubricated ink. I am admittedly new to flex nibs which all three have. So, I could just be naive. I don't know if I didn't wipe the nibs down enough after(wrap paper towel around the nib and let ink flow for a couple seconds or so) or what but when I started writing all three nibs ended up having a severe case of nib creep from the breather hole. I thought where was a leak in the sacs the sacs were fine and I would think if it were a leak ink would come out around the section and lever area. I did eventually wrap a paper towel around the nibs for about 5 seconds and I didn't seem to have the problem again. Was the feed just oversaturated right after inking or might there be other potential issues? I didn't have this happen when I used them for dip tests which leads me to wonder if it was an oversaturated feed.
  4. Hey guys! Just wondering what the best looking pen you've ever seen is? Pictures would be great too! Thanks!
  5. jrbaker

    Nib Work On Vintage Pens

    I purchased a beautifully restored blue pearl Parker Vacumatic at the Baltimore Pen Show a couple of weekends ago that I've guesti-dated back to Q1 of 1945. I inked it this weekend and started writing with it, only to find it's a bit rough. I'm wondering, is it sacrilegious to try and get the nib tuned? I'm torn because it's a vintage pen that I don't want to devalue, but I also want to be able to write with and enjoy it. Thanks in advance!
  6. Hey y'all! After a few months lolly-gagging on the forums, I finally took the time (and initiative) to introduce myself. I'm currently a postgraduate and a reborn FP-user (from my early teens, where I actually acquired a bit of $$ buying and selling pens on the Bay) who realized that if I'm going to spend the next 10 years studying and scribbling down notes, I might as well enjoy every minute of it! I just wanted to say hello and start off by showing you a few pics of one of my favorite pens so far - a TWSBI Micarta One of things I love most about this pen, is that its unique material allows for some 'customization' to be done to it. A few months ago, I bought and sold another Micarta that had some 'gold' work done to the characters and numbers on the cap. (I thank the first owner of that Micarta for giving me the idea!) On this Micarta, I wanted something a little more subtle, yet still eye-catching, so I colored in the etchings with J. Herbin's 1670 RH. Reason? to get that cool sheen of course! In normal light, the writings just look dark/black as normal. But in a specific light, they will shine that bright green that we are all familiar with in the Rouge Hematite ink. And thankfully, on the pen, the non-waterproof ink is pretty resistant when I tested it with water on the pen (so at least it stays on there and not my hands lol). I'm mostly glad that they are only green in certain light, though, because it would be a little obnoxious if they were constantly shining green IMO. So here are some links to the pictures, some in the light, and some out of light. Btw, I also applied Noodler's Dragon's Napalm to the entire pen, to give it a little darker/redder hue. So far, the ink has not gotten on my hands at all. http://www.flickr.com/photos/119945136@N08/13039588253/in/photostream/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/119945136@N08/13039589103/in/photostream/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/119945136@N08/13039441555/in/photostream/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/119945136@N08/13039442545/in/photostream/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/119945136@N08/13039803714/in/photostream/lightbox/ The nib, by the way, is a steel Nemosine 0.6mm stub (Of course I would prefer a gold nib, but who can argue with the cost-effectiveness of a 7$ nib?). It was a bit scratchy at first, but after some light nib hacking, it writes super smooth for a little stub. Let me know what you think!
  7. What's the best way to learn the intricacies of nib grinding? All the well known grinders started somewhere, and I'm curious how they learnt their craft. Also, do they all need that grinding wheel the cut and polish, or are there other methods which aren't too laborious?
  8. I have some FP experience and am considering getting some Serwex pens (http://goo.gl/Qfp9rY). I'm rather attracted by the decent reviews, nice nibs, and cheap shipping, as well as the price. Currently I have an Ahab and a Preppy. My Preppy's nib is rather stubborn (perhaps randomly so), so I'm looking for a Preppy replacement. My ink is Noodler's Polar Blue, which tends to bleed, so I'd like a really fine nib (student = cheap paper). I'm considering a Serwex 77B or 962. I'm also slowly getting better at my italic hand, so I really want a stub as well. Do any of you have experience with these pens? Do you have any advice or recommendations?
  9. I was told by a person at a pen store that Montblanc makes the better nib than say a monte grappa or cartier. I wonder if this is true or is it all in the name. I will say they are nice, but I wonder if there are others out there just as good. Hmmm
  10. heldercgrande

    Twsbi 580 Problems - I Need Some Opinions

    Hello guys,I came here to share some experience and problems with my TWSBI 580. I would like to hear some opinions about it.I received my TWSBI two weeks ago. I bought two nibs, a fine (F) and a medium (M). I found problems with both nibs, it is very dissapointed.The F nib writes more like an EF, and it is very scratch, unusable for me. It is much worse than my EF lamy nib.The M nib is kind smooth, but it skips sometimes. It depends on the ink I use, with Noodlers Bad Blue Heron it skips a lot, with Noodlers Black not so much.I bought the pen at thewritingdesk.co.uk. They told me I could change the F nib. I asked to change only for the F because I think I can fix the M skipping issue by opening the "tines" of the nib. But I didnt try yet. The other complication is sending the nib to England (I live in Brasil), and wait to receive it back. I think it will take two months, and there is the possibility to receive another scratch nib.I also ordered a polishing kit from US (Ebay). It will take more two or three weeks to arrive. So, I think my options are:1) Send the nib to change at thewritingdesk.co.uk. (Should I change only the F, or also the M nib)2) Wait for the polishing kit, and try to fix it by myself.3) Demand TWSBI itself to fix this problems.What would you guys do? Another question, if I try to open the M nib to make it wetter, will I lose the warranty for this nib?Does someone else have F TWSBI nib that writes like an EF? I want to know if this is commom. Thanks in advance for the help.
  11. I hope that getting a nib reground won't be a frequent need. In fact, if I sensibly stop with the pens that I've got, then I may never need it again. However, I really wanted the Montblanc Noblesse (or Noblesse Oblige, not sure) shown at the bottom of the picture to be a usable pen. It came to me having been reground as a left oblique, and it just didn't write very well. I don't think it was just me, as I have a couple of other left oblique nibs, but regardless, it wasn't working out for me. It just came back to me from Greg Minuskin, along with the Waterman, which only had to be aligned. He reground the Montblanc back to a "normal" .6 mm nib for me. I'd thought that this would surely involve re-tipping as well, but he told me it was not necessary, still enough tipping material for him to work with. I appreciated that, as the re-tipping would have added noticeably to the price. I got these back yesterday, and am very happy with both of them, but I can't stop writing with the Montblanc. It is now very smooth, just wet enough, and with the line width that I was aiming for. Well, actually I can stop, since I'm typing this, but you know what I mean. While the pens were gone, I remembered a Pelikan converter I had lying around, and wondered if it would fit the Montblanc. It does, which will spare me having to refill cartridges.
  12. scrivelry

    Changing The Nib In My Padrino Pen

    I have a small pen in a custom-fitted box that says Padrino. I bought it off the bay, but have tracked it down to being a now-discontinued Paradise Pens product. It has what I assume is a medium nib, and while the nice ladies at the Paradise Pen store did not know this, a little experimentation following a review for an entirely different pen on Mr. Brown's channel has revealed that the nib is in a little unit that screws out. My very cheap electronic calipers tell me that the body of this nib unit is 24.1 millimeters long, exclusive of what I think is the rear end of the feed, tiny, which sticks out a smidge more. Measuring tip of nib to bottom of smidge I am getting 42.8 mm The plastic part of the unit is about 6.8 mm in diameter. There is a five on the back of the feed, and if I try to measure the feed I am getting about 5mm. Can anyone tell me what kind of nib unit this is or seems compatible with? It looks to me like the ones on the Meisternib site, which I think are JoWo, but I do not actually know. If I had to guess I'd guess it was one of these in a size five, but since the nib, wherever I get it, seems like it is going to cost me six or seven times as much as the pen did, I'd rather not be sitting on a nice but useless-to-me-one. Anyone have a guess? I hope to be at the LI Pen show and can look there, but if I know where to start that would help tons. A picture is problematic due to issues I've been having with my camera, my computer, etc, or I'd post one. Thanks for any help. T
  13. I apologise for posting a new thread on this subject which I know several already exist. I am new to the forum and was unable to search for the other threads once I signed on. Are any of the gold Nakaya or Omas nibs listed on nibs.com compatible for the Diamonds (540 and 580) or the VAC700? Please move this to an older thread if possible - sorry about that.
  14. I recently filled my Conid bulkfiller streamline demonstrator with Noodlers Navy ink. It had the worst case of nib creep I've seen, rendering it nearly unusable. It made me think, is it the nib, the ink or a function of both? Any comments, experiences, and more importantly ways to fix it are appreciated.
  15. I have two Lamy extra fines, both filled with Noodler's Massachuset's 54th, yet they write drastically differently. One is significantly lighter and somewhat broader than the other. Any suggestions on next steps? Thanks!
  16. At the beginning, I was not supposed to make a review of the safari. I thought there was too many already out there. But, after a long time, after buying a montblanc, a parker sonnet 18k nib, and many other pens, I decided to re-ink my safari, as a reminder of the good old times ! I almost fell off my chair. Now I was finally able to fully appreciate this pen, after using a lot more : 14k nibs, 18k nibs, cheap stainless steel nibs, good stainless steel nibs ect ect.... So finally I decided to make this review because this pen is just too good for the price. The look : Personnaly, I am not a huge fan of this design. But it is very special and original. Some like this some don't but the pen still have a very interesting look. The construction : Bullet proof. It is made of plastic, but nothing that will crack of break with "normal" use. Some will say that it is plastic.. and it is crackable ... and .. and .... But listen, I don't know what those people do with theirs pens and I don't want to know. I used and carried the safari around for a long time and it is still in very good shape. The nib : SMOOTH, it is very very very smooth for a pen in that price range ! I used a lot of pens and I can tell that it is a very good nib for a pen that I got for 22 $ on Amazon. The nib is very stiff, so don't expect any flex "play" with this but for a beginner and even an expert, is is very very enjoyable. Mine is also very wet. Shape, weight and balence : The pen is well balenced, you can use it for a long without any pain. But I need to talk about the grip section, it is quite special. I personally find it awesome and incredibly conformable but it is not everybody's opinion. For example, my father tried it and he did not liked it. I would say it is a good thing to try it to figure it out. But I think it fits to a lot of people hand. RELIABILITY : It is one of the most reliable pen of my collection. I can let it inked on my desk for a month not using it and it will start up the first time. You know this pen is not gonna let you down. Conclusion : The Lamy Safari is a pen everybody should own. In my opinion, It is the best pen for beginners. So if you are looking for a first fountain pen : this one is the one you should get. Even if you are an expert or a collector, it is a great pen to own. *** English is not my first lenguage, please understand. Your comments are more than welcomed !
  17. I'm not sure if this is the best place to post this, but I'm looking for a replacement nib and feed for my Wearever I don't know what model. It's a pen/pencil. I understand that these are relatively common and not of the highest quality, but I do think it looks rather neat. I do know that the current nib is after market that reads Moore Iridium Duo-tip not the smoothest writing nib, also the feed likes to keep me high and dry. I don't know what types of nibs would fit this sort of pen so I'm asking you guys. Please help me with this if you can. http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww191/ParkerDeanPeterson/temporary-12.jpg http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww191/ParkerDeanPeterson/temporary-13.jpg http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww191/ParkerDeanPeterson/temporary-14.jpg http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww191/ParkerDeanPeterson/temporary-15.jpg
  18. Guest

    Scratched Nib

    I was working on making my Sheaffer touchdown 14k and Platinum/Palladium 2 tone nib a little wetter. In the process I got a couple scratches on what before was a fairly pristine nib when the feeler guage I was using slipped out and skidded acrossed one tine. Just big enough to see with the eye. It did not effect the gold section. Being that this nib is only plated is it even possible to buff scratches out of such a nib?
  19. MatthewSoper

    Demonstrator M200 Ink Flow Problems

    Two weeks ago I purchased an M200 Demonstrator. I've been using it daily and have been continually encountering problems getting the ink flow started once the nib touches the paper. It involves me retracing the first stroke of the pen. The nib seems to not like the down-ward stroke as I make the first movement to write my name. Once I go back up, the ink flow is there and I can finish the word. The ink flow will also stop during circular movements, such as for "a" or "o." It is annoying and yesterday I went back to the shop and they replaced the nib. Today the pen is doing the same thing as before. I also switched from green ink to black ink to see if that would make a difference and lightly rinsed with cold water, no soap. When I compare this to my other Pelikan and my Retro51, both of then have immediate ink flow when the pen touches the paper. If you could offer any advice I'd be appreciative. I made a video clip <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_ereTgqxLI> with my iPhone and hope you can see what I am talking about, I also took a still and underlined the letters the pen/nib had difficulty delivering a flow of ink. Any advice would be brilliant! Cheers.
  20. cooldude666

    Replacement For Unknown Brand

    Hi there. I'm looking for replacement parts for a pen, which I'm not sure of the brand. This pen was bought for me from a tabac in Beziers, France. It's a cheap pen, but I took it with me on a holiday in Europe and it worked like a dream. When I returned, I couldn't find the occasion to write with it, so it fell out of use for a few months. I picked it up again recently, and found that it is not working like it used to. The pen will draw ink from the cartridge, and will write for two or three lines, but then will run dry. If I remove and replace the cartridge, it will then do the same thing again. I thoroughly cleaned the insides, thinking that was the issue, but the problem remained. I bought new and different inks, but they all had the same issue. I then took it to T Sharps, my local pen shop, and they said the insides were clean, and that the problem was with the nib, which seemed damaged. I do not remember dropping it, but I'm pretty rough with my pens, and the nib does look a bit damaged, so I agree that the nib is the problem. I was then told that they could not do repairs, as they were not sure of the brand of the pen. (It has Enzo Varini written on the cap, but that is the only identifier, and a quick google search shows no results of a pen brand of that name.) They also did not have any replacement parts, as they said these types of pens are generally hand made with random parts from other pens. I am quite eager to have this pen fixed, and was wondering if anybody had seen a pen like this, or knew where to get replacement parts. I would be happy to replace all of it, as long I could still use the case. Thank you for any help you can provide, Adam
  21. Hi, I'm thinking of buying a Sailor Procolor but I'm still not sure about the nib size. I have a Lamy steel EF, a TWSBI EF and a Pilot 78G in M. Ideally something close to the Lamy EF would be nice. The TWSBI is a bit too fine for my taste. Pilot 78G in M is the absolute upper limit in what I would be comfortable in using (I mostly use my pens for Maths). Basically, I think that the Lamy EF is pretty much perfect. I've had a look at the nib nook but it's very difficult to judge based off on that. A Lamy 2000 that I ordered in EF turned out to be much finer than I had thought it would be judging by the nib nook and I had to send the pen back. I would love to hear your opinions on this.
  22. Hello! I was wondering if anyone of you has a Parker Duofold (or maybe another pen) with an Oblique Fine nib? I was looking everywhere for some writing/drawing OF samples ....in vain I would like to know if an oblique nib would help me create some more line variation while drawing or would it skip all the time while not holding to a certain angle? I always tend to turn the nib towards me when I write and draw... actually when I draw I twist the pen all the time in all directions and use all the sides of the nib. I did not realise that until I watched a video of my hands while I draw... And if I turn an oblique upside down, does it produce a thinner line like the rounded nibs? I have some dip pens with reverse oblique nibs. They are totally flat, sharp as hell and a bit too broad for detailed drawing so they don't really help me imagine how an OF would work. The thing is I finally ordered my new Duofold. It comes with an F nib...but I could exchange the nib within 4 weeks. I'm really interested in the OF but I'm not sure if I can test it anywhere in Berlin... In all the stores I've been to I've been told I will probably have to send my pen to Parker (in Hamburg I think) if I'm not happy with the F nib. Sorry for writing a novel Here is one of my sketches...I'm interested in a nib that would create long, organic lines and give me lots of line variation.... Thank you for any help! Ewa http://ewaludwi.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/smoke.jpg?w=500&h=836
  23. Hello! I bought my first fountain pen a couple of months ago, a Lamy Safari with a fine and a 1.1 nib. It actually is fantastic, no complains, but I wanted to go to the next level, you know maybe a better writing experience, I don't really care about the looks. So, here goes the question: ¿What fountain pen do you recommend me? It is very important that it has a similar nib to the 1.1 because my handwriting has improved a lot with that nib. Thanks!
  24. perth

    Sheaffer Targa Nib

    Hello. So I've been using my newly acquired (old) Sheaffer Targa. After a few lines, the ink ran out. There seemed to be some ink from the feed, but it looks like it cannot keep up with the nib. Eventually, the lines thin out into nothingness. Initially, I thought the nib was bent, but it seems that this is normal. I suspect the feed to the nib could be slightly blocked, so I am now leaving it in some water with a small amount of soap. By the way, there is no black ink mark in the first photograph, only a reflection.
  25. dragos.mocanu

    Lamy 2000 - Medium Or Broad

    Hello, Today I've finally decided, I want to buy a Lamy 2000. But I have a bit of a problem...I don't know which nib size I should get. I have medium sized handwriting, but I can effectively use nibs spanning from F (0.5mm!?) to 1.4mm stubs (that's the maximum I have at the moment), because I usually write cursive with smaller nibs (F, M) and print/italic with larger ones. That being said, which of the two sizes would you recommend? From what I've seen around here, the Broad nibs tend to have a bit of line variation (like a stub); is that the case with all Lamy 2000 Broads? Thank you!





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