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Showing results for tags 'nib'.
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For my first fountain pen, I am debating between a lamy vista (F/EF) or a Jinhao X450/X750 with a Goulet #6 (F or EF) nib. I like the looks of both pens, so it is a matter of performance. I will be using this pen mainly for school notes. How do the two pens compare in terms of performance, comfort, etc.? Also, how does the stock jinhao nib compare to the goulet nib? -Thanks
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Hi, I just bought a 145 Chopin MB and ask for nib chance at AD. I'm looking for OB or OBB nib but I'm in doubt about final decision. Is the OB nib offer nice line variation or the OBB nib is the best for my spectations? I want to handwriting in Italic on daily basis. Thanks in advance
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I have a Mabie Todd Swan pen model #3150 that needs a nib. The pen itself is ca. 125mm or 5 inches capped. 1. What model number Swan nib am I looking for? 2. Do any members know where I might find a nib to fit this pen? -Neil Anderson
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Hi guys, new to the forum and relatively new to fountain pens. I'm wondering if anyone has found certain fountain pen inks working better with finer nibs. I find that I need a fine or even x-fine nib or my letters tend to run together, especially the loops, but I've had problems with the inks blocking the pen if left for too long (and I'm only talking minutes) between writing. I prefer a waterproof ink, I'm an engineer (Naval Architect and ship designer) and mark up drawings that are taken into the field where they are subject to all sorts of liquid hazards (from water to coffee even oil and solvents). I don't expect to protect against solvents, but water should be simple enough.
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I have a 9555 with a curious V-shaped notch on the underside of the feed. Readymade posted a picture of a similar nib here and I'm wondering if anyone knows what it's for.
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I just received my Vacumatic I ordered some time ago. I am really pleased with its condition, except fort he nib, which I initially found a little scratchy. Upon closer inspection, it seems that a good amount of tipping had been worn off. Since I plan to use this more often than not, will I be wearing away at the gold if I use it? I've seen a post saying that the gold nib wouldn't last if there were no iridium tipping. Thanks in advance!
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I've got an orange 1927 Parker Lady Duofold, with the Christmas-tree feed. Although it writes beautifully, and the nib feels quite snug in the section, it periodically slips out enough to lift away from the feed a centimeter or so, enough to disrupt the capillary action and stop my writing until I wipe it off, and press the nib firmly back into its seat. How do I stop this from happening? I have several other Duofolds without this issue, and I can't figure out why it is so afflicted.
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If only it weren't so small. I love writing with this pen.
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Anybody Know How To Disassemble A Pilot Vortex Section/feed/nib?
Glenn Atkins posted a topic in Japan - Asia
http://www.jetpens.com/Pilot-Vortex-Fountain-Pen-Fine-Nib-Clear-Green/pd/10539 Thanks in advance for help, tips, or ideas.... Glenn -
Hi Folks, Is there any of Pelikan nibs of size #2? I ask because I have a #2 flexible waterman nib, and I fitted it on a noodler's nib creaper. It works, but I need to slow down to keep reasonable amount of ink for the flex. If there are any Pelikan nib of size #2 I would like to get Oblique nib, because I prefer oblique over flex for daily writing. Thanks.
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After getting access to a credit card, I went on eBay and bought a Parker 100 (my grail pen). In my haste I had not taken a good look at the photographs and had later found what seems to be a defect. Since it was shown in the post, I don't think I would be eligible for eBay/PayPal buyer protection. As it is my grail pen which I had wanted for so long, I am somewhat devastated by this revelation. My question is: does anybody know of an online store or have a Parker 100 nib section that they are willing to sell? I've seen other similar posts that have been resolved, but I don't know how many are left out there that I would be able to find.
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Quick review on my Goulet nib: Assuming that my nib is a good representative of all the others, I think these nibs are a great value for the money. I put mine on a Nemosine Singularity that was otherwise a great pen but had a super scratchy nib. Now it is beautiful, writes really smooth, and is a total joy to use. And, that two-tone is really classy looking. :-) I say that if you are looking to replace a #6 nib, this would be my first recommendation. Also, I really like the Goulets and I would rather have their logo on my pen than any other company. A few more writing examples: And some poorly done pictures of the nib itself: Btw, I bought this nib with my own money and I am in no way affiliated with Goulet Pens. All opinions expressed above are strictly my own and you are totally allowed to respectfully disagree with them.
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I love this pen although it does not work at the moment and needs a full overhaul. However, the nib itself as beautiful as it is, reminds me of a kid with braces. How the heck do you get it completely clean. I have soaked and wiped but it still has ink in the nooks and crannies of the slider and such.........
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Hi, I currently own a Pelikan Souveran M250 with 14k gold nib manufactured in late 1980s or early 1990s. It's a fine pen and it has been a reliable companion. The other day, I saw the Pelikan Souveran M800 (with 18k gold nib) and I have been going back and forth about buying it. I heard that the 18k gold nib is less durable than 14k and it is prone to wear and tear from daily use. I wonder how much of this is true, and whether I should forget about M800 completely and stick to my trusty M250. Thanks. Henry
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Well its my first official post! I am coming here for some help on a newly acquired pen. I purchased this one at Scottsdale Pen and Knife. Its a blue and yellow Monteverde Regatta. The shop owner explained to me that this pen was in a Doctors pen collection and was taken care of. I saw it in the bottom of the showcase and told him i would buy it without even trying it. its that beautiful (to me of course). Anyway... he didn't have any other information on the pen. I got it home and inked it up with Waterman Turquoise in a Monteverde converter that I got with the Intima I also bought. This pen is really smooth. like unbelievably smooth. I was wondering if there are any other Regatta owners out there that can help me out with more information on this pen. I have no idea when they were made, how much they were new, what nib size it has, or even if they are all this smooth. I would love to buy another one (or 12 lol) after the experience I have with this one. Thanks! JM
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I have a Pelikan 400 tortoise from the early 1950s. I posted a review here Now that I have a bit more experience looking at nibs under magnification, I've discovered the tines on this extra fine nib were out of alignment and the entire tip of the nib itself is crooked and a bit twisted. I was able to align the tines but the nib is still twisted. Fixing only the alignment leaves the nib very scratchy. Ink flow is very good and I think just as it should be for an EF and even keeps up when I add pressure to my writing to get line variation.It's so scratchy though that I want to get someone to fix it for me. Not sure what my options are; any recommendations?
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Hello Visconti fans, I had a quick question: are all Visconti steel nibs the same? Basically, I'm trying to figure out if there's any difference between Rembrandt and Van Gogh in terms of writing performance, or if the only differences are aesthetic. (This is pretty important since Van Gogh is nearly twice as expensive as Rembrandt!) Just to be clear, I'm referring to the Van Gogh that's currently readily available in a number of online pen stores, and is (I think!) still in production. I believe Visconti has discontinued an older version of Van Gogh. I'm asking because, let's face it, I'll probably be buying a Visconti pen some time in the not too distant future, even though I arguably have more pens than I know what to do with. As evidence for my assertion that a Visconti pen purchace is imminent, I submit the fact that I spend way, way too much time looking at photos of various Visconti pens on the Internet. Ah, well. Can't deny those pens look gorgeous...
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When I attempt to start nib grinding I will probably start out using whet stones but have access to machines just like the one in the image show below. The ones I use for lapidary work are are diamond coated in different grits from a course to very fine on one side then the other set of wheels are polishers. Would something like this be ok for nib grinding or would the small metal points perhaps be bad for the wheels?
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The Best Combination Of Pen, Nib, Ink & Paper?
Jared posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
After starting my addiction hobby with fountain pens I soon realized that there is far more to this than just the pen itself. 1. Pen - Needs to be comfortable to hold and write with, and perform well. It's very personal choice. 2. Nib - Without a good nib, the pen is useless. It should be one that you enjoy not only writing with, but are pleased with what it produces on paper. 3. Ink - I like a smooth ink, moderately saturated, with great shading. Others seem to like something akin to paint, but that's not my preference. Some nibs and inks are meant for each other. Others clearly are not. 4. Paper - You may have the nicest pair of roller skates/blades, but if you're trying them out at the sand dunes, you'll be sorely disappointed. Similarly, the paper should be fountain pen friendly & one that you enjoy writing on. What is your favorite combination of the three? I have a lot of favorite combinations, but my current favorite: 1. Mabie Todd Swan - 1920s BCHR self-filler 2. Super-flex fine 14k nib - very expressive 3. Waterman Blue-Black (1980s) 4. Zander's Gohrsmühle (great German paper with a really cool watermark) -
I bought a A. G. Spalding fountain pen about 15 or 20 years ago. Never used it. Recently I became interested in improving my handwriting and bought some fountain pens. I found my brft250 model and tried to used without success. It was empty and I think that it had never been filled with ink before, but when I try to write with it, nothing happens. Its nib must be dirty. I would like to know if this model can have his nib removed for cleaning or I will damage the pen. I would appreciate any help. I tried do clean the nib with water but I failed.
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Ok I replaced the sacs on the Waterman 512 1/2 PSF, 452, and Lady Patricia. I tested them with Noodler's Black Eel, a lubricated ink. I am admittedly new to flex nibs which all three have. So, I could just be naive. I don't know if I didn't wipe the nibs down enough after(wrap paper towel around the nib and let ink flow for a couple seconds or so) or what but when I started writing all three nibs ended up having a severe case of nib creep from the breather hole. I thought where was a leak in the sacs the sacs were fine and I would think if it were a leak ink would come out around the section and lever area. I did eventually wrap a paper towel around the nibs for about 5 seconds and I didn't seem to have the problem again. Was the feed just oversaturated right after inking or might there be other potential issues? I didn't have this happen when I used them for dip tests which leads me to wonder if it was an oversaturated feed.
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Hey guys! Just wondering what the best looking pen you've ever seen is? Pictures would be great too! Thanks!
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I purchased a beautifully restored blue pearl Parker Vacumatic at the Baltimore Pen Show a couple of weekends ago that I've guesti-dated back to Q1 of 1945. I inked it this weekend and started writing with it, only to find it's a bit rough. I'm wondering, is it sacrilegious to try and get the nib tuned? I'm torn because it's a vintage pen that I don't want to devalue, but I also want to be able to write with and enjoy it. Thanks in advance!
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Hey y'all! After a few months lolly-gagging on the forums, I finally took the time (and initiative) to introduce myself. I'm currently a postgraduate and a reborn FP-user (from my early teens, where I actually acquired a bit of $$ buying and selling pens on the Bay) who realized that if I'm going to spend the next 10 years studying and scribbling down notes, I might as well enjoy every minute of it! I just wanted to say hello and start off by showing you a few pics of one of my favorite pens so far - a TWSBI Micarta One of things I love most about this pen, is that its unique material allows for some 'customization' to be done to it. A few months ago, I bought and sold another Micarta that had some 'gold' work done to the characters and numbers on the cap. (I thank the first owner of that Micarta for giving me the idea!) On this Micarta, I wanted something a little more subtle, yet still eye-catching, so I colored in the etchings with J. Herbin's 1670 RH. Reason? to get that cool sheen of course! In normal light, the writings just look dark/black as normal. But in a specific light, they will shine that bright green that we are all familiar with in the Rouge Hematite ink. And thankfully, on the pen, the non-waterproof ink is pretty resistant when I tested it with water on the pen (so at least it stays on there and not my hands lol). I'm mostly glad that they are only green in certain light, though, because it would be a little obnoxious if they were constantly shining green IMO. So here are some links to the pictures, some in the light, and some out of light. Btw, I also applied Noodler's Dragon's Napalm to the entire pen, to give it a little darker/redder hue. So far, the ink has not gotten on my hands at all. http://www.flickr.com/photos/119945136@N08/13039588253/in/photostream/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/119945136@N08/13039589103/in/photostream/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/119945136@N08/13039441555/in/photostream/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/119945136@N08/13039442545/in/photostream/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/119945136@N08/13039803714/in/photostream/lightbox/ The nib, by the way, is a steel Nemosine 0.6mm stub (Of course I would prefer a gold nib, but who can argue with the cost-effectiveness of a 7$ nib?). It was a bit scratchy at first, but after some light nib hacking, it writes super smooth for a little stub. Let me know what you think!
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What's the best way to learn the intricacies of nib grinding? All the well known grinders started somewhere, and I'm curious how they learnt their craft. Also, do they all need that grinding wheel the cut and polish, or are there other methods which aren't too laborious?
