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  1. FPRebel

    Mabie Todd Swan Sf1

    I recently purchased a Mabie Todd Swan SF1. I knew it would need sac replacement, but if I'd done all of my homework, I would not have chosen the SF1 to attempt this for the first time! Still, here I am. Please advise or refer me to existing information for this specific model (I haven't found it) for: 1) removing the section, 2) replacing the sac, 3) pulling the nib, if possible 4) Is there a reasonable way to recondition the clip? The cap closes with only a quarter turn although all parts (cap, body, feed, section) are labeled SF1. Near the base of the barrel is imprinted, "1 S-F MED" I'm attaching pictures; from one of them you'll see how far I've been able to pull the section. 5) By any chance, is the section inside the barrel fluted? It feels like it when I try to pull it out. Sorry about the image color. For reference, the pen is photographed against a Leuchtturm page. Thank you in advance for help.
  2. Had a lovely day out in Manhattan Beach. I was able to put faces to people who have previously been email addresses. And in a display box I saw a dingy little grey stick that turned out to be a sterling MT Swan ringtop with a very flexy MT nib. It'll look swell when it's polished. The dealer had another little silver pen - it had a Waterman nib, which, I suppose, is a matter for another forum. So he did well by me.
  3. Hello I am rather new to vintage pens and I am looking to purchase a Mabie Todd Swan No.2 safety pen C1917 This is the lisiting on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mabie-Todd-Swan-No-2-safety-pen-C1917-Superfine-xxxf-BB-No-2-nib-Serviced/252718508401?_trksid=p2050601.c100085.m2372&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D37338%26meid%3Dfc693cc1d39e460cbac892d94efef564%26pid%3D100085%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D252718508401%26clkid%3D1871438649743035473&_qi=RTM2247625 I was wondering how much these pens usually go for and how much i should bid. I was thinking between 40-70 USD would be reasonable. Thoughts?\ Brian
  4. This is my Vac 700 with a custom section sporting a vintage 14kt Mabie Todd “Swan” no.6 flex italic nib. The Pen Holder: I am sure many of you here have already seen quite a few reviews of the TWSBI Vac 700. Like many others out there I was impressed with the looks and quality of this pen. The clear EF nibed pen I received directly from TWSBI wrote perfectly out of the box, but my personal preference is for flexi nibs so I immediately began searching for an adequate replacement. The Custom Section: After a long tedious search I was unable to source an appropriate nib that could be easily transplanted to the TWSBI section. As such I decided to go custom. I had a fantastic Mabie Todd Swan no.6 nib and feed without a matching body so I thought they would be a great match for this pen. Our own Appleman here on FPN was the gentleman who did the wonderful work shown in the attached photos. The custom section is made out of black ebonite. Appleman did a great job creating a girthy section with a nice curvature which is extremely comfortable to hold. As you can see in the images, there is also less of a step from the barrel to the section when compared to an unmodified Vac 700. This was a huge plus as well! The ebonite feels warm to the touch and due to its solid construction moves the balance of the pen toward the front of the pen which I prefer. I find that if I remove the clip to the pen from the cap then the pen is actually quite reasonably balanced when posted. I am sure the very large chunk of gold at the front end helps as well Although I do not have a Vac 20 yet, I hope that this pen will still be compatible with TWSBI’s Vac inkwell. The Nib: Before this project I had the nib in a Noodler’s Konrad which wrote well. However a nib of this quality needs a pen holder which offers the sense of luxury. So I was not happy with that set up. When it was in this pen body, I had the tip customized to a rather sharp cursive italic by Mr. Pendelton Brown. He did fabulous work. In the TWSBI pen holder the Swan writes an amazing M (western) cursive italic that can easy flex to a glorious 3+mm downstroke. Whether or not this is a “superflex”, “wet noodle” or otherwise is beyond my experience as I have only used a handful of flex nibs. I will say that the force required to flex this pen is small enough that flexing on every letter can be done without fatigue. The cross strokes can be hairline thin when a light hand is used. The nib is very responsive, but the flood of ink that comes with the flexing can sometimes puddle up if the stroke is not followed through on. None-the-less, the full flex writing experience is smooth and quite enjoyable on higher quality papers. The matching vintage Swan ladder feed manages to keep up very well considering how much ink is laid down. After long sessions of flexing the flow does require some time to catch up (as you can see by the time I get to “jumps”), but honestly I am surprised these vintage feeds can supply as much ink as they do. The Rhodia dotpad paper crinkles under the stream of ink… Of full flex writing the pen only manages to write about 5 pages of text (single stroke fill-60%ish full). This is quite surprising considering the Vac 700’s large ink capacity. However I do not anticipate writing pages of flex writing so this is not an issue. Under normal writing conditions the ink supply will last a long time. When writing with a light hand the nib handles with ease. The pen is smooth and flow is generous but not uncontrollable. I would be comfortable using this pen on cheaper printer paper for unflexed writing. On some 30% recycled copier paper the pen writes without feathering, but the line is a more stubish M-B line. Most of my inks are of the Iroshizuku line which to my understanding are quite wet. I will need to try some dryer inks. (any recommendations?). I have been considering some iron-gal inks but am unsure if R&K Salix or Scabiosa will react with the steel plunger rod. If anyone has some experience with these inks and Vac 700’s please let me know. Conclusions: This pen has blown away all my expectations and it is truly going to be my prized pen for many years to come. This mix of vintage and modern has created a sweet spot for me personally. I am left wondering if I will ever need another pen again. The balance of the pen leans toward my preferences, the looks are stunning and eye catching and most importantly the writing experience is heavenly. Thank you all for looking! ~Hanryy
  5. Hello everyone, I've got a problem with a pen I recently restored, I don't find it confy enough to be used regularly and I want to place the nib on another pen in order to use it on daily basis. The pen in question is a Mabie Todd Swan self filler, with a gold swan 2k nib. I don't know if this topic is misplaced, if so I apologize, but I would really appreciate if someone in the community could give me an advice to get the full potential of this nib on another pen. Thanks in advance!
  6. Hi, I'm a newbie to this site and wandering if anyone out there recognises this Mabie Todd Pen Set. Fountain pen and pencil are a pink composite material with inset rings of yellow and blue Pen measures 95mm capped, pencil measures 100mm Pen Nib marked, MABIE TODD & CO, N,Y. 2 In a leather pouch marked MABIE TODD & CO LTD
  7. hello, I would like to know which nib is fitted in the swan 1500, as it is a overfeed pen I cannot see which nib is fitted I do not know if is the swan #2 or# 3 or whatever. Many thanks
  8. hello, I would like to know which nib is fitted in the swan 1500, as it is a overfeed pen I can see which nib uses I do not know if is the · 2 or 3 or whatever. Thank you
  9. Here is a recent acquisition which I picked up because the rough look on the clip reminded me of a Schnell Penselpen. But before I get there, note the Mabie Todd pen http://www.peytonstreetpens.com/mabie-todd-usa-swan-fountain-pen-model-a3-eye-dropper-full-flex-nib-excellent-works-well.html at Peyton Street Pens: http://www.peytonstreetpens.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/thumbnail/65x/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/s/w/swan_a3_eyedropper_1.jpg And now the one I came across from Eagle Pencil Co.
  10. I was looking at my now complete telescoping dip pen, and thought the length comparison was interesting. Here it is, extended, next to a typical early MT pen with a slip cap. This one has the rotating (NOT "rotting") (edit after below post...) collar to secure the cap on a pin on the section (it is shown in this thread). But it is the exact same size as my slip cap pens with over/under feeds. While the dip pen appears to be a small pen, it is actually a very standard sized pen when extended for use.
  11. I have three stylos in my large FP collection, two Mabie Todd Long Short, and a very early AT Cross. How smooth should these feel on the paper, or how smooth can they be? They aren't exactly scratchy, but they are kind of "toothy" The AT Cross has no protruding needle - the needle stays inside. It seems to need a fairly vertical writing angle, but writes well. I would imagine this to be normal based ont the physics of the pen, but I have nothing to compare it to. The Mabie Todds have protruding needles that are on springs, which seems to allow the pen to be used at an angle more like 45 degrees, but of course there is some vague feel of the needle on paper. So, can any fans of vintage stylos tell me more about how old stylos are supposed to perform, and how much can I expect from them. They are not really for using much, but I still enjoy getting all my pens are tuned up as possible regardless of whether or not they will be actually used in the future.
  12. Hello everyone! I was walking around town today and decided to walk into a old collectible shop and found this babe along with others! http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq23/Skye_El-Rahi/IMG_1137_zps7lul9dgd.jpg I was able to fix the other pens I got from him but this one needs a pressure bar and I'm interested in the history of the pen. Can anyone help ID this fountain pen and let me know what parts it had originally so I can try to restore it as best as I can to its original state? As far as I can tell its BCHR and has some ripple patterns similar to the Conklin 20p Crescent Filler. Here is the picture of the writing on the side: http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq23/Skye_El-Rahi/1204c00a-a2f5-4c32-b229-3f719dd60136_zps29pgyjgo.jpg This is my first Mabie Todd and man I need to have more! Any information would be greatly appreciated! All the best, Skye
  13. I am searching for information about 1930-40s mechanical pencils. I have 3 interesting examples inherited from my father from whom I have also inherited my love of collectable pens. 1. “GOLD” mechanical pencil inscribed “Fyne Poynt' MABIE TODD CO. LTD. MADE IN ENGLAND” 2. “SILVER” mechanical pencil inscribed 'The “Conway" No. 60 MADE IN BRITAIN STIRLING SILVER’ 3. “STAINLESS STEEL” mechanical pencil inscribed The “Conway No 50. MADE IN BRITAIN 1 & 2 Seem to take 0.9mm leads but the the sterling silver Conway 60 drops that diameter lead. I dont know if it is damaged or I should try a different lead. Do you know where I can obtain more information about these elegant writing implements? (apologies for the photo quality, just used my iPhone and low res.)
  14. Hello FPN, I was wondering if someone with more vintage flex knowledge than I (which isn't much) could advise me with my newest acquisition. It is a Mabie Todd Swan SF250 circa 1937. I need to do some more research on the hallmarks stamped onto the gold bands. Upon first using the pen I noticed some quirks here and there, like dry starts at the beginning and some railroading. It also seemed to work better when holding it at a rather high angle, though then it feels a tad scratchier. After using it for a while, these problems pretty much go away entirely, as if it gets much wetter after some use. I was looking at the nib through a loupe and I noticed that the gap of the tip is a little wonky. It's a bit V shaped when looking at it head on where the tines meet. The tip of the left tine somehow seems bigger than the right, like there's more material. The gap of the tines is pretty much parallel from the hole of the nib to the tip of the tine (I thought it was supposed to be a bit more tapered towards the tip where the tines meet.) The pen seems to be in great condition otherwise, the lever works well, the gold bands aren't worn, the inscriptions are still legible, etc. But I'm wondering if this nib could be improved if I sent it to someone competent. Like I said, it seems to behave much better after it's been used for a minute or two and then it lays down a good amount of ink (quite a bit, though I am using Iroshizuku with it, which maybe is too watery?) and I can make a flex stroke from top to bottom of page without it railroading. I'm just wondering if with some adjustment I could get a bit finer line on the upstrokes and just a more consistent performance over all. On the side strokes it's about an XF/F if done fast, the diagonals or upstrokes seem more like a F/M and the downward strokes can get to 3mm (though I'm a bit paranoid of doing that very often.) Anyways, if anyone wants to throw in their two cents I'd appreciate it. Could that V issue I mentioned be something that happens with a nib that flexes that much? Does the angle become more parallel when it's flexed? That's just a random thought though. Thanks!
  15. I was delighted to purchase these two Mabie Todd swan pens on eBay. Doing so, I understood that they were not whole. At the very least I would get another gold over feed out of this. But I am wondering if there is a way to restore/repair these to working condition? Ok. So let's start with the longer/full sized pen. It came with the forward part of the section which seems to have been broken off of the barrel, the cap, and barrel with most of the ebonite interior within. With the section was the nib, which I was surprised to find was 18karat, a very small feed (which I'm assuming was longer, but broke with the section; though I've not seen a swan feed that looks like this before), and a gold over feed. I was most excited about this pen, because it is what I've been seeking for some time. (As seen in an advertisement around Christmas of 1911 I think?) my only indication as to what model it is was pressed into the section. "Swan" 2 C. Luckily I have an inksight swan which is also a 2 C. The cap uses the accepts those threads without feeling incorrect and is very securely screwed on. And the barrel seems to be the correct length when side by side and capped. The section shapes are also identical, though it should be noted that the nib,feed, and over feed from the partial section that came with this pen does not fit within the section of the inksight swan. As for the smaller pen, it is just a tad shorter than my Swan B2. The threads don't seem to line up well either, and the section of the B2 is too long and the gold cap does not have a chance to engage the threads with it in place. The small pen was purchased as only a cap and barrel, though there is still the ebonite interior of the barrel. (And I'm assuming the inner caps of both the long and short pen are still intact). What I hope is that there is a hope that these two will be useable pens again. (Hopefully with not too much money spent in the process). The first thing that comes to mind is to somehow remove the ebonite within the gold (let's just focus on the long pen for now) and then either have a new insert made or cannibalize a 2 C which has a broken cap or is sold as parts/missing a cap. If the second route (cannibalizing) is taken, to heat the barrel and try to slip the filigree/overlay back onto it (as to how to keep it in place securely once this is accomplished, I have no idea). Any advice/help/opinions/comments would be most appreciated. Thank you for your time
  16. Do Eternal nibs have any flex? I've never had the opportunity to try one.
  17. Hello, I am applying for help with this strange problem. I've bought via Ebay this Swan and have been able to disassemble, clean and polish it to a quite satisfactory extent. I am currently waiting for a replacement sac. I have noticed however that the thread does not allow to screw the cap to full closure. It looks like the pen is too long for the barrel's thread to fully grip the cap's one. I noticed that if I remove the section from the barrel, I have no problem in screwing the cap firmly in. The issue is not with the nib and feed being too long, because the problem comes up even when the nib and feed are removed. I have wondered whether the section is possibly not the original one. However the name Swan is engraved on the section. Maybe a Swan specialist here could tell me if he knows of Swan having used considerably different section lenghts. I am enclosing some pictures of the pen.
  18. Here's my sweet new Jackdaw. The 14k nib's doesn't feel quite as robust as some of the other MTs I've experienced but it takes nothing at all to flex. At the moment, it has a few problems flow-wise, in spite of a clean. I'm going to get an ultra sound. Any cleaning tips will be welcome and I offer my modest acquisition here to add to our MT catalogue. It's a lovely pink and silvery green.
  19. I recently acquired a Mabie Todd # 4 nib (18K) and dip pen from eBay. The nib looks to be almost in mint condition. I'm very new to Dip pens, so I might be missing something on how to use it. I thought that this was a flex nib, but I don't see the tines separating when I put a little pressure. It instead writes like an extra-fine nib. The ink doesn't flow very freely, and I've only used it with fountain pen ink so far, and not India Ink or other calligraphy inks. The nib feels scratchy, but the times are perfectly aligned. Is there anyway to make the ink flow more freely or improve the flex? How much pressure can I put on it? I've attached a couple of images for the nib. Thanks.
  20. Hello everyone! I've just spent far too much money on a greeny-gold, red veined Swan snakeskin. The little chap doesn't have a clip. I don't suppose anyone's got a spare knocking about, or any idea where I might find one? Any help with a model number would be fantastic. My patience with the Swan lists wore out as an accident's made prolonged web-monging physical torture just now. The pen's not yet in my possession or I'd provide pics but it's a SF, maybe a minor (?) and it has a wide gold cap band and a gold lever. Lovely looking No. 1 nib. Thanks for any help! xx
  21. My Swan frankenpen is finally whole again! A little while ago I bought a black SF1 matched with a woodgrain section and cap. Now I've been fortunate enough to find an SF1 woodgrain Swan sporting a damaged lid. The various bits are now re-united and I have a lovely woodgrain pen. It's gifted with a beautiful NY nib that a previous owner had set in the section with a certain lack of subtlety and I didn't really feel confident enough to pull it all apart and fiddle with it. But thanks to the tender ministrations of Cob it's back to its lovely best - a smooth, flexy writer with brilliant snap-back. Thank you, Cob and one day I will learn how to photograph these bloody things properly!
  22. If you bumped against an Edwardian gentleman in a London street around 1910 and felt an unusual bulge in his pocket, it may have been one of these, a "Swan fountfiller for travellers": http://i.imgur.com/e770hFH.jpg The design is possibly inspired by London post boxes. The material is lightweight wood. The top unscrews to reveal, Russian doll like, an ink bottle inside: http://i.imgur.com/y3WDCi9.jpg The ink bottle is sitting on a spring mechanism, so that it pops up when you unscrew the wooden top. The ink bottle can then be lifted out. There's a printed reminder on the spring platform to buy a replacement bottle of Swan ink: http://i.imgur.com/ZZrMenJ.jpg The ink bottle itself has a hardened and unusable bulb and the top is gummed shut with dried ink, but is otherwise in nice condition: http://i.imgur.com/nHXQSCy.jpg Closed, it measures 12cm base to tip. Note the slight problem on the top of the lid which is going a bit bald where the red paint is flaking off: http://i.imgur.com/yi9Oc7Z.jpg The Swan trademark logo on the back - your guarantee of quality: http://i.imgur.com/C1e7BhJ.jpg
  23. A very strange Mabie Todd Swan, presumably American: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6698428727_0be79d594a_b.jpg This pen has the right parts, sort of. The clip is right. The cap band arrangement isn't really right (not for a flattop). The stamps on the top and bottom of the pen are right - sort of, they are gold colored. The stamp on the barrel is very incorrect. The section is what is really weird on this pen. The barrel opening is huge - too big for a Mabie Todd 46 section. The opening in the section that is in there for the nib is too small for a 6 size nib. Its marked 46 on the end of the pen, but I'll be damned if I can figure out how to fit a 6 size nib in there.. This is a big fat pen. I've got to think that someone in the factory made it lunchtime with leftover parts (although I'm not sure where this particular celluloid came from - or maybe bakelite?.
  24. I have stumbled across the Merle Blanc retractable safety pen made in England. I have not yet found any information on similar Blackbirds and been wondering whether there were any or this particular Merle Blanc was just a rebranded version of the Swan safety pen made for the French market?
  25. The self-filler is a New York pen from about (I would guess) 1924. It is fitted with a Pat. 1915 clip. The leverless was a bit of a pain; English from about 1933, its internal mechanism had rusted away and the fact that it is thinner than the standard leverless pens of the period (e.g. L200/60) made the repair trickier than it might have been. And of course the nib was bent too. Anyway it works now and as I hope the writing shows, it was worth straightening the nib! The colour difference is interesting I think, the New York pen being quite a bit darker; perhaps there was more "gold in the rolling"? Rgds Cob.





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