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We are delighted to say that we have been able to preorder a big chunk of the UK's allocation of M805 Demos. We will have 100, the same amount as the M800 Demos that we had a few years back. This time, 75 'plain' without engravings and 25 with. There will only be English text this time, no Spanish. I have chosen this 75-25 split based on what we sold last time, I do not know how Pelikan's manufacturing split is. Pelikan are doing EF, F, M and B nibs on the plain, but the engraved one will NOT be officially shipped with B nibs. The UK RRPs are set at £510 for plain; £530 for engraved. (approx. US $775 - $805) Our price is discounted (to compete with a better European RRP) and will be £385 and £399. This is around $585 and $605. We do not have dates for delivery, but release is April. I would expect them in the second half of the month. We are taking preorders now, we have around 15 reserved already, after 2 days. Therefore we are expecting them to sell well! Ross Adams www.pelikanpens.co.uk

Hi all, I've owned an M205 for a few years now, and although I love it I do think that it's slightly small for the furry ape-paws that I have for hands. So, I am thinking of treating myself to either an M605 or an M805, but I would like to get some advice from those of you who have these pens before I go out and buy one. (Especially as either would cost me a sum that I can't really afford to be spending.) Obviously, apart from the different plating on their trim, the M605 & M805 are the same pens as the M600 & M800, so the answers to my questions would also apply to the differences between the M600 & M800. I would like answers to the specific questions listed below, but I would also welcome any other information that you think that I ought to know, and also any advice/hints/tips that you think that I ought to consider. My specific questions: 1) Does an M80x feel noticeably heavier than an M60x - i.e. might its weight become tiring in long sessions of writing? 2) Does an M80x feel ‘unwieldy’ compared to an M60x? 3) Does either model only feel ‘right’ if you write with its cap posted (or, for that matter, with its cap not posted)? 4) Is there any difference between the feel/responsiveness/springiness/performance of the 18K gold nib on an M80x and that of the 14K gold nib on an M60x? 5) How do these nibs compare to the feel/responsiveness/springiness/performance of the steel nib in an M20x? 6) does the longer nib of the M80x substantially alter the feel or ease of writing with one, and if it does, does the longer nib make it ‘more comfortable‘ to use than an M60x, or ‘less comfortable’? I do recognise that the best way to find out which of the two pens will better-suit my own, personal, taste is to try both of them out in a store, so; 7) can any of you let me know of any shops in my vicinity (the Midlands of England) that stocks both of these models of the Souverän? My thanks to you in advance for your answers to those questions, and also for any other information that you feel that I ought to know before spending my money. Cheers, M.

Dear all, I have just received my new Pelikan Souveran M800, Black & Green which I ordered via Amazon.de. My excitement and antcipation was crushed when I saw how this fine writing piece was delivered. I made a picture of te package that arrived with my mobile phone, but I cannot upload it because it's size is 2,24 MB, whereas the maximum allowable size of upload files is 1,95MB No documentation, no box, nothing except the bare pen fell into my mail box. Can any of you who own such a pen give me some feedback? I cannot imagine that this is normal... Should I be worried about the authenticity of this product? I look forward to your feedback. RSEN

When my father died a couple of years back I inherited his small pen collection. All good quality dating from 1950s to fairly recent. Among them is an M800 which has the gold cap logo dating it from 2010 onwards. It is possible that the pen is that new, but I think it unlikely as he was beyond travelling to a suitable shop by then and I was his official online purchasing agent. What is believable is that he broke the cap in one of his many falls and arranged a replacement. So can anyone help? Would a 2010/11 cap fit a slightly older pen? Is there any way I could tell from design details on the pen itself if it were older? There may be other forums (fora?) on other subjects as good as FPN but I have difficulty imagining where else one could ask such an esoteric question with any hope of an answer. This is an incredible resource. and I thank everyone in advance. Actually, as I write this it occurs to me that the pen got damaged in a fall, he phoned and was told repair was unlikely and so bought a replacement there and then. Still, I would be interested in any information anyone has.

I recently had the great pleasure of using both the M800 and the M1000. I currently own an M200 with a 400 nib (I hope I've remembered that correctly!) and I really like it, although it's not in the classic green stripe style and it is a little too small for me to be honest. It was the delight at using the m800 and the m1000 that made me buy the m200 frankenmodel. It was all good for a while, but I noticed something a little strange. I like to post my pens and the Pelikans post securely and well. The m1000 is a huge pen and bigger again when posted, but I really, really liked it - hence the strong level of temptation to spend a silly amount of money. But I was a little surprised that the m800 didn't feel as well balanced when posted and written with. Has anyone else noticed this, or is it simply to do with hand size and writing style? Now I won't be running out to the shops anytime soon, but can anyone both encourage me to part with a sizeable amount of euro's and discourage me? I'll be honest, I'm totally sold on the m1000, but would appreciate knowing any of the bad things...if there are any.

Evening all. I recently picked up a M800 from the infamous auction site which detailed "pump intact". The pictures showed a user grade pen so I wasn't expecting the world and to be honest I was after teh 14C nib more than anything else. Turns out the piston seal was trapped further up the neck of the pen after having come adrift from the piston rod at some point. I've unassembled the entire pen for a good cleaning (it needs it) and found that the piston seal is no longer circular, it must have been jammed in there for a while. It's flattened on two sides so I doubt it'll even return to it's normal shape again. Does anyone know of a source for replacement or original seals? I had thought of contacting Pelikan directly but thought I'd ask here first. Cheers, Greg

Hi Pelikan fans, I wanted to share my recent experience with my newly purchased M800, and regrettably, some horrible experience dealing with Chartpak. This reveals some important changes to the Pelikan's warranty policies, and I thought my experience may inform any prospect buyers of Pelikan fountain pens. Long story short: Chartpak will NOT service any Pelikan fountain pens purchased outside of North America even though you are the first owner with the original receipt. Never mind the service fees or Pelikan warranty; Chartpak management will REFUSE to service your pen under any circumstances. Period. Just over a month ago, I stumbled upon a great bargain and purchased a Pelikan M800 fountain pen from a German retailer. To my dismay however, the F nib I received turned out to be troublesome and it just did not write correctly. I contacted the seller, and he suggested I send back the nib for a section swap but the shipping the pen back to Germany was going to cost me $95.00 UPS + weeks of waiting time (I live in Chicago, IL). I thought this was a little too expensive for me so I decided perhaps I can contact Chartpak and they will be able to help me out. It is a brand new pen and the pen comes with 3 year warranty after all. Within the next couples days, I heard back from Abi Weeks and her response was: show us the receipt first. So I wrote her back with the copy of the receipt and the dealer stamp, and a few days later she wrote back to me saying that Chartpak will not service the pen, no explanations provided. The response was rather surprising for me because this was a brand new pen and I was the first owner. I wrote another email to Abi Weeks asking about the reasons for the refusal of services because I wanted to know that I would be able to repair my pen in the future should I have any problems with it. Abi only told me that Chatpak will not service the pen and it was the "decision made by the Chartpak management." The only reason I could think of was because the pen was purchased from Germany, not America. Nevertheless, Chatpak's stance was rather absurd because the pen I purchased was defective to start with, never mind the 3 years warranty. I understand that sometimes when a product was purchased from outside the service country, companies charge service to to account for the labor cost, and I was okay with that. I have never experienced complete refusal of any kind services with no explanations of the refusal provided. I don't know about other fountain pen users, but when I spend hundreds of dollars on a pen, I feel that I am also paying for the services. The hardware alone can never justify the high cost of these pens. When I pay a lot of money for a fountain pen, I want the confidence that I will be able to enjoy this writing instrument for a long time, and if I have any problems, they can be fixed, sometimes with a cost. Pelikan's excellent warranty service was not a small part in my decision to purchase the new M800, and all the more reasons why the experience dealing with Chatpak was extremely disappointing. As far as I know, Chatpak is the only official repair services Pelikan has in North America. I don't know how I can go about repairing the pen in future if I have any problems with the pen. I guess I will have to go with other skilled third party repairman.

Hi all, I opened my mail today and was delighted to find my very first Pelikan M800 Tortoise that I purchased from John Mottishaw. Just wanted to share some photos! It's a broad stub. (My first broad, and my first stub!) -Best regards, Suji

I teach college chemistry, so there is a lot of grading to be done. There are many pens at home, including a big vintage sheaffer collection, but those are not in rotation. In the flock are: A marble green m200 with M and an extra R. Binder cursive italic nib (rarely used). A blue-o-blue m800 with an IB nib, filled with blue pelikan ink (the sign official stuff pen). A red m800 with a F and an extra EF nib, filled with brown pelikan ink for general writing and grading. (a nice ink, BTW) A red d800 pencil for all things pencillish, including filling in bubble sheet keys, crosswords and kenken puzzles. I love the m800's because they are the perfect weight for my hand. The pencil is sublime. The blue-o-blue, the red pen, and pencil live in a leather case in my purse all the time. I somewhat prefer to color code my pens to the ink. I am getting meaner as I get older, and am considering shifting to bloody screaming red ink in the red pen for grading. This leads me to needing another pelikan m800- one for general writing. Of course I might also eventually need a new matching pencil, since the general writing pencil must match the general writing pen. Choices are, of course: Green : Love the green stripes. They scream Pelikan. Problem is that I would eventually be tempted to fill it with green ink. And only crazy people write letters in green ink. I do not know whether I am more concerned about the perception, or the danger of falling into madness from the green ink. Black : So elegant, but looks like every high class black pen out there. So, "Erm, no, it's not a Mont Blanc" or Blue. Darling, but I already have a blue pelikan. I could buy it a nibless pen body from RB, since I have a spare nib. Weigh in, my friends!

Hi, The other day I went to a small local bookstore, and discovered that they have a Pelikan Souveran M800 with "Made in W. Germany" engraving on its band and a 14c EF nib. They didn't put any price tag on it. They had price tags for other everyday items, but they didn't put any on the M800. It's one of those shops where you can haggle to get a bit of discount. The pen is brand new. It's green striated. It's probably the most expensive item they have in the shop. The store clerk said it is an old item that has been around since before he works there, and it's the only one the shop has. I may be wrong about this, but to the best of my knowledge the pen should be manufactured some time between 1987-1989 before the reunification and it is one of the sought after pens. What I would like to know are: Is there any justification to buying this pen? I am well aware that M800 isn't an entry level fountain pen. Compared to other competing brands in its price range, the materials used on the M800 seem cheap. With other brands, you may get pens with metallic shaft with lots of bling bling. On the other hand, the Pelikan Souveran M800 is made of plastic resin. The piston barrel may be made of brass, but the piston mechanism inside is made of plastic. So what makes this pen worth the price? Or should I spend my money elsewhere? What would be a fair price for this early edition of M800? Is there anything else that I need to be aware of about this pen? Thanks. Henry

It looks like M800 Brown Tortoise prices have significantly dropped these days. The pens are regularly going for under $400 at auction which is a vast improvement from the $600 street price. The majority of the pens are coming from Regina Martini who is a fairly respected seller on this site. How is it that she can do this? Is this what they call the gray market? Have they reached market saturation? If she is able to do this and still make a profit, just how marked up are the prices on these pens? If Sailor is able to sell their piston filler Realo for $250, wouldn't the actual price of a Pelikan be comparable? This also makes me wonder just what the size of the fountain pen market is. Does Pelikan move pens in the hundreds? Thousands? Tens of thousands? It's sometimes a bit frustrating that I have no idea what this community looks like as a whole.

Hi, I currently own a Pelikan Souveran M250 with 14k gold nib manufactured in late 1980s or early 1990s. It's a fine pen and it has been a reliable companion. The other day, I saw the Pelikan Souveran M800 (with 18k gold nib) and I have been going back and forth about buying it. I heard that the 18k gold nib is less durable than 14k and it is prone to wear and tear from daily use. I wonder how much of this is true, and whether I should forget about M800 completely and stick to my trusty M250. Thanks. Henry

Oh dear! I should not have done it but I did. Walked into a well-sorted B&M store and tried out multiple Pelikan pens of the M200/400/600/800 range. The M800 was too heavy for me, the M200 and M400 too small. Only the M600 pens they had fit my hand perfectly and were of ideal weight and balance. So I have decided to get me a M600. But which one? There are so many around. In the shop they had a green marbled one that looked very good and a light blue one with silver trims that seemed to be some kind of limited edition and also looked cool. I can`t have both pens, so I must decide between these two. If you had the choice, which pen would you take and why?

Hi, I've received my M800 Tortoise today! It is my 10th pen right now, and one of my grail pens. I'm very happy with it, and glad that I've decided to spend more than what I usually do! http://www.kepfeltoltes.hu/131118/P1170317_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg http://www.kepfeltoltes.hu/131118/P1170309_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg http://www.kepfeltoltes.hu/131118/P1170299_2_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg M800 & M400 http://www.kepfeltoltes.hu/131118/P1170329_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg http://www.kepfeltoltes.hu/131118/P1170336_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg M400-M600-M800 http://www.kepfeltoltes.hu/131118/P1170255_2_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg http://www.kepfeltoltes.hu/131118/P1170258_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg Thank you for watching!

I have an m800 with an OB nib that I've been using for a while, but I still occasionally miss the angle and the pen skips at the start of a letter - which drives me a little crazy. Should I buy a new nib (M, I think) or purchase the M600 I have my eye on? There is only an $82 difference, which isn't a very big part of the equasion. I suppose another option might possibly be to get the OB nib ground to a stub?

While looking at certain pens I see art take place...Such is the case with my.M800! I took a picture for another post...but thought I'd share the beauty...(please enjoy like I did! Apologies if you don't). Regards rrs

Was this nib a special, or will it continue as a stand offering from Pelikan? I'm hearing conflicting news on this?

Is it possible to re grind an M800 nib and get a similar experience as one would with an Aurora 88 with a factory stub? I recently bought an Aurora 88 from John Mottishaw, not customised but just a factory stub which he tuned, which has completely blown me away. I've been using M800s almost exclusively for work for about six years now and just wanted to see what all the fuss was about concerning feedback with Aurora nibs. I just find it a fantastic nib to write with, and seems to work with almost any kind of paper that I encounter (I work in a hospital, where paper quality varies a lot!). The trouble is I love the M800 in terms of design generally, but love the Aurora stub nib. Is it possible to regrind a Pelikan M800 to feel like an Aurora? I had a BB M800 nib reground to cursive italic by John Sorowka, and have been mightily impressed with the result. Just wanted to know if I can achive something more like the Aurora by having a regrind, and what would that be? Any help would be very much appreciated...!

Hi All My Pelikan M800 with IB nib turned up to in the post! Bringing a very large smile to my face upon seeing the pen and nib! Pure Class, Seduction and sultryness! (made up word/or spelt wrong) in a box! My dilemma now is which ink do I use: Aurora Black or J Herbin Perle Noire? Anyone with any experience's of using these inks with M800 range? Thanks rrs

What is the best way in which to remove dry ink from inside a Pelikan M800 or any piston-fill fountain pen? While I can run the nib under water, I do not want to damage the piston by trying to draw water through the piston filling system.

Hello FPN. I just started up a etsy shop that makes hand made fountain pen cases. The current ones I have will fit larger pens like the Vac700 and the M800, but I want to make sure what I create caters to the fountain pen community at large. With that in mind I have decided to take a page out of TWSBI's book and take a look and see what kind of needs are out there in the community. I am thinking of making a smaller case to fit the TWSBI Mini and the Kaweco Sport, and woudl like to know if the need is there. Here is a link to my shop: http://www.etsy.com/shop/quillquivers Take a look and let me know what kind of items you would like to see in future, or suggestions to improve what is already there. Cheers, Phil

Hi All, Here is hoping I can find some assistance. I have a two month old M800 that works beautifully, for the most part. Catch 22: The ink will flow very well and writes so utterly smoothly until the ink held within the capillaries run out. When the fins closest to the tip/ball run dry, my pen will suddenly stop writing altogether. The 'band-aid' solution has been to release the piston slightly to push some ink back into the capillaries. This will enable the pen to write supremely until the next pit stop. On a side note, I believe that this piston maneuver is necessary to make the most of the Visconti Opera Crystal's double ink reservoir. But it just seems ridiculous for me to have to do this for a stock standard M800. I am guessing this is not normal, and am hoping to seek some advice as to what is wrong and would it be worth it to give it back to Pelikan for a service. Thank you kindly.

Hi everybody: I'm expecting a green/black M800 tomorrow and I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts about what one should do before filling it for the first time. I've seen where some folks clean a new pen with water and perhaps a drop of dishwashing soap. Not sure if that's appropriate for a Pelikan, but if one has to...one has to...the exquisite anticipation of first putting nib to paper will, of course, persist until everything dries out..... Anyway, I would appreciate hearing anyone's "new pen/pre first fill" routine.