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Found 17 results

  1. From the album: First look

    My order of four Monami Penna pens arrived yesterday. I haven't inked any of them up yet; but my initial impression is one of disappointment. The barrel material is very prone to scratching, even from just the cardboard in the retail packaging itself. One of the pens arrived in absolutely appalling cosmetic condition, on account of movement inside the retail packaging in transit. The clear plastic display box took the brunt of the impact of being crushed and is permanently creased and deformed, along with the cardboard frame inside, but otherwise shielded the pen; however, that made for a bit more wiggle room for the pen trapped inside. p.s. I reported the issue to the AliExpress seller, and I blamed the manufacturer squarely for inappropriate retail packaging design, given that the barrel on another pen of which the box was not crushed is also marred by a haze of micro-scratches thus acquired. To the credit of the seller, he took responsibility for inadequate packaging, and offered to send me replacements for the two pens.

    © A Smug Dill

  2. From the album: Nothing to see here, move along

    This chart was taken from a section of the Platinum Prefounte's retail packaging.

    © Platinum Pen

  3. A Smug Dill

    Daiso Preppy-wannabe pens colour range

    From the album: Chinese pens

    These fountain pens are Daiso's answer to the Platinum Preppy, with the clear, lightly coloured pen bodies and spring-loaded inner caps. Unlike the Chinese-made Platinum Riviere PTR-200, which Daiso also sells, they are not co-branded. These pens started appearing, here in Sydney, late in August 2020. I've only ever seen them in one store in the four months since, even though there are three Daiso stores within walking distance of each other. My first impressions are that these pens are of much better product quality than the PTR-200. The nib width grade is not stated anywhere, either on the pen itself or its retail packaging; the nib on the unit I've used writes like a Fine, I'd say.
  4. ralfstc

    Osmia 294 Loose Clip Repair

    Hi folks, One of the things that can be pretty annoying on any pen is a loose part, usually a clip. Not only does it bother me when I'm writing, I worry that it'll get caught on something and pull off, or otherwise get damaged. One of my favourite pens is a lovely wood-grain Osmia 294 from the 1950s. It writes beautifully, and looks great in that streamliney 1950s way! The clip was loose however, and I thought I'd share the repair procedure in case it's useful for somebody with a similar design of pen. Ron Z has a blog on a similar (but not identical) procedure on his Blue Fingers Blog, so credit where it's due! The pen does not have a screw off cap top, because a. it wouldn't be streamliney and b. it would be too easy. And the clip itself is folded metal and cannot be tightened from the outside. When I say loose, I mean it was rattling and moving several mm in different directions. Here is an overview of the pen: The clip is held tight by a protrusion on the inner cap: You can see the metal tab on the clip that the inner cap protrusion fits into: And here is the final piece of the puzzle, the cap showing the slot the tab fits into: So how to fix the loose clip? If the clip is loose, it means that the inner cap is loose in the cap. The inner cap has a coarse right-hand (normal) thread on it. I was able to unscrew the inner cap and remove it using a rubber gripping sheet and a chopstick. Initially I tried simply tightening the inner cap, but the alignment wasn't right, so I loosened it and took the parts apart. This allowed me to wipe them down (they were pretty clean) and get the alignment perfect when I re-assembled. I chose to put a TINY bit of silicon grease on the inner cap threads. I may regret this if it continually loosens, but I'd rather have 70 year old parts able to come apart easily than jammed together. So now I have a tight inner cap, a tight clip, and a satisfying story! A small but significant repair. Here's the clip in place. You'll notice the contour of the clip doesn't quite match the contour of the cap all the way along, but it is completely solid, and I can live with that. Hope this is helpful to somebody, sometime :-) Best wishes, Ralf
  5. I have accumulated several third tier celluloid fountain pens and "combo" fountain pen/pencils. Nearly all of them are missing the inner cap. Some of these pens and combos are really quite nice both in looks and in writing performance but they do tend to dry out quickly (some more than others). Being one who likes to use my vintage pens on a regular basis, I want to get each pen to the point where I have reasonable insurance that uncapping a nice looking 1930s Wearever Combo to write something down at the bank or some other public place does not have me shaking the pen to get it started. I think a proper inner cap would certainly lengthen the dry-out time of a capped nib. The materials used for inner caps in many of the tier 3 pens back in the 1930s were quite cheap with laminated paper tube being quite common. Obviously, once the paper tube was really saturated with ink, it would begin to come apart and eventually be lost. I don't have a lathe and have focused on using some sort of tubing but am concerned about possible negative interactions between modern-day plastics and 1930s celluloid. I would appreciate any guidance those of you with far more experience might be able to offer. One possible material that occurred to me the other day is hardwood dowel of the proper outside diameter cut to length and drilled to accept the nib. This could then be either sealed with perhaps Thompson's water seal (on the inside only) or shellac and just left unfinished on its outside where it touches the pen's cap. Ideas and suggestions? Thanks, Cliff
  6. Dear friends. I'm trying to remove the inner cap of my on-going restoration Sheaffer PFM gold cap. First at all, I don't want to buy any special-task tool like the Inner cap extractor in http://www.penpractice.com/page3.html What I tried so far: I heated the inner cap with boiled water and ther I tried to use the DIY tool suggested by antonio ilmonaco in the post https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/93139-removing-inner-cap-from-sheaffer-tuckaway/ , with no results so far. Would you please give me some suggest about this? Any trick or tip? Regards, Jose
  7. I assume that this question has been raised in the past, but did not have much luck in searching the forum. I have two very early Safari's where the blind cap has become brittle and comes out peacemeal. I understand that this is a common problem with the very early versions. Can these blind caps be replaced with newer ones? ...or has the design been changed?
  8. Mookli

    Montegrappa Inner Cap

    Greetings all, I am looking for a Montegrappa inner cap for a briar and sterling, of the Symphony series. It will be the same as the basic Symphony. I just wanted to see if any parts are out there before I end up making one. (yes, I'm lazy) Thanks Mark
  9. Hi All, I noticed recently that my M800 Renaissance Brown doesn't have an inner cap, which I suppose makes it more prone to ink drying. All my other M800's including the Grand Place have it. So is this normal, or is it a defect on mine? Thanks in advance
  10. drop_m

    Sealing Holes On A Lid

    Hi, i've a vintage lid which has 2 holes left from a missing clip. Now, since the lit has not a inner cap, i want to seal them to prevent leaks of ink.. any suggestion of how to proceed? The lid's plastic is black, by the way.. Another question: there are other problems i could have due to the lack of a inner cap?
  11. bill legere

    Wahl Eversharp Inner Cap Removal

    I have a Wahl oversize (Greek key band) pen that needs to have a new clip installed. My question is, how is the inner cap removed?, is it a pullout from the inside, or is it attached to the outer cap end that might thread off with it? I have searched in vain for any such information. Any help would be appreciated. Bill in ontario.
  12. scribe16

    Vintage Waterman Inner Cap Leak

    Hello there, I have had a bit of bad luck lately with a couple of antiqe waterman's that I recently acquired. Both pens have started leaking inside the cap to the point that ink gets everywhere and even down onto the section. On close inspection I can see that the inner cap on both pens is distorted. So the inner cap is no longer round and doesn't seal properly and on both pens I can see a spot where the inner cap has pulled away from the wall of the outer pen cap. Both pens are BHR from the 1920s does anyone have any experience with this problem and ways of fixing it? Thanks. scribe16
  13. scribe16

    Waterman's Bhr Inner Cap Leak

    Hello FPN people, I have had a bit of bad luck lately with a couple of antiqe waterman's that I recently acquired. Both pens have started leaking inside the cap to the point that ink gets everywhere and even down onto the section. On close inspection I can see that the inner cap on both pens is distorted. So the inner cap is no longer round and doesn't seal properly and on both pens I can see a spot where the inner cap has pulled away from the wall of the outer pen cap. Both pens are BHR from the 1920s does anyone have any experience with this problem and ways of fixing it? Thanks. scribe16
  14. Hi all, Wondering if someone can help out with a PFM II issue. I'm Not experienced in repair but eager to get this sorted. Got what looks to be a leak that's caused the plastic inner cap to degrade, unusual as I've only been using diamine inks but anyways. After washing the cap out thoroughly there seems to be no end of brown crud emanating from the spring loaded clip. Got a feeling its from a rusting spring thats up there. On to the question; is it possible to remove and replace the inner cap (on a PFM II) so I can find out what's going on? Many thanks for your help in advance, Badger
  15. In a $$ pinch you may not have to fork out for a tap set - you might try the following. I removed a J inner cap using a storage hook as a substitute tap. The hook is basically a lag screw which has been bent into a long flat "U." The stage was set when I disassembled a decent (outside) looking J w/2556 nib I recently bought. The barrel jewel was broken, a corroded half of a J-bar (couldn't find the other half), clip was floating on the eyelet, floating band, rusted C ring, and no sac. Sac tray in decent shape, threads OK, and the barrel, cap and section OK with some use - no bites, dings, or deep scratches. I hand drilled out the barrel jewel and proceeded to do so with the cap. Problem -- I drilled through the inner cap. Anyway, I knew I had to get the inner cap out in order to fix the floating clip. So while the cap was soaking in a lightly soapy solution I tried to remember what was in my arsenal in the garage I could readily get at that would work. I had read it needed to be 5/16in but what was recommended - a tap - was out of the $$ realm for me. I figured the next best would be some sort of screw with sharp threads, but what I found were either too small or lacking the "proper" threads. It is hot and muggy here - and inside the garage probably 10-15 degrees hotter than outside. Frustration building for what I had expected to be a quick delivery. Walked around, outside and back in. There they were begging for a chance to do there part. Hanging from the ceiling were these ladder or bike storage hooks. I was pretty sure I had a couple stashed in one of the containers. Hoping it was the first one -- I pulled the one where I kept fasteners and such. There were two inside waiting for a test run. I barely rinsed out the cap and set the screw in to do its work. First try it slipped; second try there was purchase and the inner cap came partially out. It was stuck in the threads!! Luckily I had already drilled out part of the cap's jewel - through there I pushed a small diameter hex wrench and lightly tapped the inner cap out. Finally!! For anyone wishing to try it. Lag screws can be bought at most hardware stores. I would not buy a storage hook as the threads are not consistently sharp the length of the screw. Make sure it is 5/16in for a J, has sharp threads, and is long enough. Most have 8-9 threads per inch - the more threads the better I think. Cut off the first thread (root) and file it down so it will not pierce the inner cap. Having measured the depth of the inner cap mark off a slightly shorter length on the lag screw. Remember that the lag on the screw may not be the same taper as that of the inner cap. Then go for it. Disclaimer: I am clearly not responsible for any damage as a result of YOU repeating part or all of the information provided in this post. Anything can go wrong and it will. So if you have a spare test cap try it first.





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