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  1. slickplaid

    Stipula Passaporto Feed Breakage

    I have a problem with my Stipula Passaporto and I was wondering if anyone could help me either source parts or fix it. The pen still writes, but I would like to find out more information on how I could fix this. The feed is completely screwed into the section and nothing leaks. I've tried to look up replacement parts, but my google-fu seems to be lacking. The nib is fine, but the feed has a ridge that seems to have broken off with use, causing the nib to wiggle when seated. Gif for demonstration: http://zippy.gfycat.com/OccasionalIdealisticBarebirdbat.gif Here is an album of close-up images of where the feed meets the section: http://imgur.com/a/rjNUo http://i.imgur.com/Uuah1GL.jpg
  2. mannyboy2680

    Please Help Me Find The Missing Pieces

    Hi guys! In one of my most recent trips to my grandpa's house, he noticed the fountain pens I was carrying, and to my delight he used to have some himself! He looked around the house, and could only find this, which he gave to me: http://imgur.com/zsf3suq It is an unidentified Sheaffer 14k gold nib, possibly extra fine, which writes beautifully and takes Sheaffer cartridges. That's about all the information I have on it though. I would really really REALLY love to find replacements to the missing parts, so that I can have this beautiful pen up and running again as one of my daily writers. This holds tremendous sentimental value for me due to the fact that my grandpa gave it to me, and I'd love to fully restore it to usable condition. Any help in pointing to the right direction will be GREATLY appreciated. thanks in advance guys!
  3. Watch a feed doing its magic!
  4. Hi All, Hope everyone is doing well! New to FPN and pen collecting - what a great hobby! I need some help and was hoping y'all could assist. I have started getting into repairing my vintage pens (been picking up cheapies here and there) and am having trouble finding parts. Currently I am looking for replacement parts such as: -- Conklin Crescent Mark 50 cap -- Waterman #2 feed/section from a 14k solid gold Edward Todd ringtop -- Parker Lady Duofold "big red" ringtop cap -- Waterman 52 BCHR barrel and cap -- Waterman Thorobred red and green veined cap -- Parker Vacumatic major cap, jeweled, golden I have searched and searched the internet and the "bay" but it seems likes these parts are kept by folks who are collectors/sellers. Anyone have any idea of how I can find the missing parts to my pens? Any feedback is greatly appreciated - it has been a frustrating month or so of constantly searching without any luck . Best, Champagne-N-Beer
  5. Hi All, In need of some advice. I have a busted feed and section for a #2 Waterman nib. It came from my 14k solid gold Edward Todd ringtop (lever fill). The crazy thing is it is a screw-in section. I am not sure if this is original? Anyway, I would like to replace the feed and section and get the little guy up and running again, but I cannot find a screw-in section and feed. My thought was to find a similar (same) pen and swap out the feed/section, but I do not know what to look for on the cheap and not in the mood to spend hundreds on the same pen to fix this one . Any suggestions on how I can get this little feller going again? Can add pictures if you think it would help. Thanks in advance!
  6. Champagne-N-Beer

    Vintage Pen Parts - How To Find?

    Hi Everyone - on the advice of a fellow FPN'er, I have moved my question to the "repairs" section - can anyone help? Hi All, Hope everyone is doing well! New to FPN and pen collecting - what a great hobby! I need some help and was hoping y'all could assist. I have started getting into repairing my vintage pens (been picking up cheapies here and there) and am having trouble finding parts. Currently I am looking for replacement parts such as: -- Conklin Crescent Mark 50 cap -- Waterman #2 feed/section from a 14k solid gold Edward Todd ringtop -- Parker Lady Duofold "big red" ringtop cap -- Waterman 52 BCHR barrel and cap -- Waterman Thorobred red and green veined cap -- Parker Vacumatic major cap, jeweled, golden I have searched and searched the internet and the "bay" but it seems likes these parts are kept by folks who are collectors/sellers. Anyone have any idea of how I can find the missing parts to my pens? Any feedback is greatly appreciated - it has been a frustrating month or so of constantly searching without any luck . Best, Champagne-N-Beer
  7. Hi, I have a Platinum 3776 Century Chartres Blue with 14k medium nib. It writes nicely but upon inspection with a loupe I noticed that the tines are misaligned (see attached photo). When I took the nib and feed apart for cleaning I checked the tines again and the tines are well aligned if the nib is removed from the feed (sorry - the image is a little blurry). Looking at the feed one can see that there are small bumps in the plastic. I believe this causes the one tine to be raised compared to the other. Does anyone have a suggestion how to fix this problem? Maybe I can use a file to remove the bumps? I purchased the pen in July 2013 so I guess I could also send it back under warranty. Thank you, Jochen
  8. bertrandhustle

    Notch On The Underside Of Nib

    I have a 9555 with a curious V-shaped notch on the underside of the feed. Readymade posted a picture of a similar nib here and I'm wondering if anyone knows what it's for.
  9. I've got an orange 1927 Parker Lady Duofold, with the Christmas-tree feed. Although it writes beautifully, and the nib feels quite snug in the section, it periodically slips out enough to lift away from the feed a centimeter or so, enough to disrupt the capillary action and stop my writing until I wipe it off, and press the nib firmly back into its seat. How do I stop this from happening? I have several other Duofolds without this issue, and I can't figure out why it is so afflicted.
  10. http://www.jetpens.com/Pilot-Vortex-Fountain-Pen-Fine-Nib-Clear-Green/pd/10539 Thanks in advance for help, tips, or ideas.... Glenn
  11. I'm not sure how I did it, or if it just broke through wear and tear, but the little black feed now has a tiny chip off the edge of it on the left hand side which I think is causing the pen to run ever so slightly dry. So the question is, should I think about finding a new feed and fitting it? If I do this, I presume that I will have to re-sac it and take the pen apart. Is there another possible solution?
  12. Hey guys, long-time lurker, first-time poster. First, a little background on me. (If you're not interested in this part, feel free to skip ahead to the next paragraph containing the question). My interest in fountain pens is mainly artistic. I began cartooning using dip pens and brushes, which I still do feel are more expressive, but in the interest of speed, have begun inking with the tools from my sketch kit: a Pentel pocket bruch pen with Platinum converter, and a fountain pen that a friend of my father's made for me on his lathe for my 21st birthday, both loaded with Winsor-Newton Calligraphy Ink (the water-soluble one with the blue cap). Have had good luck with this set-up for a couple of years now. I have adjusted the nib of the pen and deepened the feed channel with a pin for better flow, because I have a somewhat frenetic style and I draw fast. I also like to sketch with a Pilot Parallel loaded with Higgins Sepia Calligraphy Ink for a 19th century look. Anyway, the question: the kit pen my father's friend made has a friction-fit feed, which can be pulled out by finger-force alone. I try not to take it apart more than necessary, but I use this thing *A LOT*. Do friction-fit parts eventually wear out? Is there a limit to how many times I can do this before I will have to replace the section, or the feed, or both? Side note: my mom's husband gave me an old Cross that the ink converter was so loose, it would just fall off, and I saved it by brushing on a coat of clear nail polish to reduce the inner diameter of the neck of the converter. Can the same fix be applied to sections that have become loose and sloppy?
  13. So, I bought a new Waterman and can't identify it, but I'm thinking something in the 500 series. Anyway, I have four broken fins on the feed. It still writes, but railroads often and is really scratchy when trying to write at a normal speed. Is it easier to try and find a replacement section, or find a replacement feed? Also, the nib is a 14 ct W5. Should I be looking for a number 5 feed as well? Since it's a cartridge pen, is there anything in particular I need to be looking for? Thanks.
  14. I recently experimented with swapping out the nib set on my TWSBI 580 while the pen was already filled. Rather than eject a drop or two of ink by driving the piston down to saturate the feed, I decided to let gravity saturate it for me by keeping the pen point down in an empty cup for a while. To my surprise, I found that it took 35 minutes (even with a bit of shaking) before the pen was ready to write. I was surprised by this, it was my understanding that a pen should take at most 20 minutes to saturate a clean feed. From this experience, I had two questions I was hoping more experienced fountain-peners could answer for me: 1. What is the normal amount of time a clean feed should take to saturate from an inked pen that is held nib down? 2. I understand that leaving fountain pens nib down with ink in them leaves them more vulnerable to clogging. How long can I safely leave the pen nib down and inked without having to worry about the risk of clogging up my pen? I'd like to know this in case gravity is taking its time to saturate the feed in the future. That way I can decide if it is okay to leave the pen nib down for an hour or two or even overnight to get it working if it is going slowly.
  15. Aloha - This vintage Sailor has an 18k "sleek" 70's style nib, not the traditional open nib. Red jewel on the blind cap. The section including nib and feed and converter bay are virtually one piece, filled via a squeeze-sac converter. No flow initially, but I managed to get a weak and temporary flow after overnight soak in soapy water, bulb flush (no luck), soak in amonia solution, flossing nib/feed with brass sheet - after all this, I loaded with Iroshiguzu asa-gao and just get a trace onto the soft paper. Some flow from sac, not much. How can the "modern" sleek nib molded over the feed be disassembled to clean the feed, or otherwise improve flow? Dipped, it is a dream writer.
  16. I have a Jinhao X450 (marbled finish) that I got a while ago when I bought a couple of Chinese pens (one is my knock-about Hero 110 that's quite good). I avoid Chinese pens unless I need something that I can use when working in the lab or that can be knocked-about, be lost (or stolen). Given that, I don't usually pay more than $10 for them, and don't care much if they don't work. But I have taken a liking to the very sturdy brass and enamel construction and the excellent M nib that I have gotten used to (though I greatly prefer F and EF nibs and usually avoid M or bigger because it is impractical to write calculations with them, and the fact that I simply really like EF nibs). Unfortunately, after writing two paragraphs, a vacuum forms inside the converter and no ink at all flows into the feed/nib section. I end up having to turn the piston in and out to manually draw air in every ten minutes. I took every single piece of the pen apart and soaked it in household bleach (it was fine, but please don't anyone soak their Montblanc in bleach! I DO NOT recommend trying this on any pen you spend more than $10 on! ). Cleaned every single channel and section with a little nylon brush. Everything was free of any contaminant or manufacturing residue. Put everything back together perfectly. Tested pen. . . And the same thing happened. I can hear a slow bubbling sound as the air tries to get into the reservoir. It is obvious that the feed system is not allowing for any air to enter. The system consists of a partially hollow feed with a little capillary feed that slips inside of it, it is this narrow little capillary feed that plugs into the tiny hole in the section and connects to the converter's reservoir. I don't think the design facilitates for any air to enter to stop a vacuum forming. Does anyone else's X450 do this? Is there any way to fix it? I would really like to find a way to solve the problem, as I have taken a liking to the pen. Thanks in advance for any advice.
  17. I have a pen at hand, nemosine singularity with a stub nib (I think this is a production error and xfountainpens have been more than wonderful in helping me get a replacement, but I'd like to take it as a learning opportunity) problems: If I push the feed all the way down until it has no more to go, and twist the converter until ink flows into the section, the pen will write for a while, and in random intervals drop really big blobs of ink on the page, sometimes followed by a dry spell where the pen stops writing entirely. If I adjust the feed to be more forward, just clearing the sides of the tines so that it is not visible from the top-side of the pen, the pen will write super smoothly after I force some ink down from the converter, but it will stop and not write again at all until I force more ink. observations: I do not see any ink filling the combs of the feed in either situation, but there a pool of ink can be seen between the feed and the nib in situation 1 The nib itself, if you look at it from the tip as if you are going to poke your eye out, the tines are tilted invards, so instead of being a h ( τ ) , it is more of a ( ϒ ) *SUPERBLY EXAGGERATED* what I tried: Brushing the feed and the nib, along with the converter with mild dishwashing detergent Reseating everything about a million times Different Inks Very tight / Very loose nib clearance from feed Tight/Barely touching tine adjustments flossing the tines flossing the feed channel Thanks a bunch.
  18. Hi all, I was wondering if there was any difference in charicteristics provided by the modern production plastic feeds and the previous ebonite feeds fitted to the MB 146 and 149 range? Is the difference in flow etc. noticeable? Many thanks, Badger
  19. onewater7

    Pelikan M800 Feed Issue (Possible)

    Hi All, Here is hoping I can find some assistance. I have a two month old M800 that works beautifully, for the most part. Catch 22: The ink will flow very well and writes so utterly smoothly until the ink held within the capillaries run out. When the fins closest to the tip/ball run dry, my pen will suddenly stop writing altogether. The 'band-aid' solution has been to release the piston slightly to push some ink back into the capillaries. This will enable the pen to write supremely until the next pit stop. On a side note, I believe that this piston maneuver is necessary to make the most of the Visconti Opera Crystal's double ink reservoir. But it just seems ridiculous for me to have to do this for a stock standard M800. I am guessing this is not normal, and am hoping to seek some advice as to what is wrong and would it be worth it to give it back to Pelikan for a service. Thank you kindly.





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