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Showing results for tags 'feed'.
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Hi, I have just received a Lamy Lx Palladium (I got on sale). I have noticed a couple of mishaps. Firstly, I noticed that there is a loose bottom finial- creating a rattling sound. I was able to use my finger to tighten it (in comparison to another one, it is not fully tightened- as seen in the photo by referencing the ‘Germany’ imprinting). However, it came loose again. Since tightening it again, it hasn’t. Is there any way that I can fix this, to prevent it loosening long term? I believe there is a hex thread in the bottom finial? A question about the nib. I noticed a grey streak on the right tine. I originally thought that it must be some sort of factory residue. I cleaned it and inked it up, however, have realised that it is still there. Could this be a spot on the nib where PVD coating is missing? Input on this would be great. And finally, a question about the feed. When capped, the feed remains black, though when uncapped, it fades to a greyish white colour. Is this normal, as I haven’t been able to find any information on this? Not sure if any of these issues or questions have to do with a slight problem I ran into. When loading a cartridge into my pen, after cleaning with a bulb syringe (with basically distilled water), and drying off, the ink just would not flow to the nib properly, as only faint grey lines came out (even after writing for a while). I tried everything to promote the ink to saturate the feed, including putting the pen upside down, gently squeezing the cartridge and writing with it. When cleaning it out, a faint pink colour came out? Anyway, I have since combatted this by using bottled ink (Pilot Iroshizuku), so as to saturate the nib and feed initially, and since I haven’t had any flow issues. Thank you in advance!
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Sheaffer Lifetime Nib/Feed (Vac) - Will NOT go in (re-insert)...
Emc^2 posted a topic in Of Nibs & Tines
Hi all, I am finishing my repair of a Balance Vac, and I am trying to set the nib and feed, and they will not seat in the section far enough in! I have never had this problem before. I have attempted to reseat it about 5 times. Every time I find myself exerting more force than I believe is a proper amount and so I back off, say a few chosen words, scratch my head, knock it back out, and figure out what the hell is wrong. I have looked inside the section, I do not see any old nib edge marks to see where it was seated before (this is my fault for not doing this when I took it apart). I have rotated where I attempt to place the nib and feed when inserting it...the only other thing I can THINK of is to set the section in the freezer or fridge (for a brief few minutes) to get it to shrink and therefore expand the size of the section hole, but that is just pure speculation as I try to figure out how to get this darn thing back in. It is the nib and feed that came/original with the pen, so it's not that I am trying to replace these parts. I am out of ideas. Any suggestions? -
Hello, I have a No. 146 from the 1980s in front of me. I knocked out the nib and feed easily enough but getting them back in seems impossible! I have done this before and had no trouble after applying a little silicone grease. This time, nothing works. I am afraid of breaking a fin on the feed. Does anyone know of a good way of getting them back in? Thanks!
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Title basically sums it up! I have just finished repairing a hard rubber Duofold, but in my excitement to get it writing again, I forgot to disassemble and clean the nib and feed before I glued the ink sac on. Because of this I'd rather not have to cut the sack off to clean the feed and nib. I do not plan of course to soak anything in pen flush; just rinse. With that being said, are pen flushes containing ammonia safe for the hard rubber and the sack?
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Some of you may remember a thread I started a couple of weeks ago about a feed we discovered repairing a woodgrain lever pen: Well, I'm still none the wiser about the origins of the pen or the feed, but here is Part II of the story... After cleaning the rust and the remnants of the old coil, I attempted to replace with a new coil. However, the top lug of the feed snapped, revealing a rusted metal core (about a 10mm long) running through the feed. You can see the core on the feed side: This is the other half on the lug that snapped off: So this is the question that puzzles me: Is that metal core supposed to be there? If so, there is no explanation for the tubular channel in the middle of the feed, and the hole in the lug at the top: On the other hand, if it is not supposed to be there, how did it come to be? And should I attempt to remove it and create a flow through the core of the feed, before re-attaching the top lug? Any suggestions to solve the mystery, gratefully appreciated! Thanks George
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From a descripton of Pelikan P1: From https://www.pelikan-collectibles.com/en/Pelikan/Models/Revised-Piston-Fillers/P1-Other/index.html Can anyone explain how this feed resisted pressure and temperature variations?
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This past Tuesday I received from the maker in India a new Ranga fountain pen, my first Ranga. While I wrote to the maker to ask how the apparently #6 nib and feed come out of the section, I've not heard from him (maybe because he and his son don't often look at their email service or maybe too busy due to the work load: I used mpkandan@yahoo.co.in which is inside the pen case). Therefore, I'm here to ask the same thing: do I simply pull out the nib and feed since they're both friction fit, or are both inside a housing/collar that unscrews from the section? [I know if both are in a collar, I can pull them out of the collar/housing.]
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I am a university student in continental europe on a search for a very wet, very smooth writer. I want to have the feeling of writing on glass, and I don't want to have to worry about the ink flow, while I am feverishly taking notes during class. The paper is not the problem because I use Oxford 90 gsm paper. Does anyone have an idea how to make a feed bleed more? Can anyone recommend a reliable very smooth and very wet pen that I could ask for for my upcoming birthday in April? When I say very wet and very smooth, I think of my grandfather's Montblanc 149 with a F nib. This is however not my pen or a student pen. I also enjoy the writing experience of my mother's Pelikan M200 (1988-1997) with a B nib, however the piston mechanism doesn't work anymore and because it's the Old Style I don't know where to bring it to have it fixed. Last year, I was still able to use a Kaweco Sport with an EF nib, which is a smooth writer, but it didn't have the flow to back it up, i.e. even after an attempt or two to make the nib wetter, I gave up on the pen. This year, I have been using a PenBBS 355 with a Jinhao M/B (0.7mm) nib. This pen writes smooth as well, and I have been able to make the nib much wetter, but twice I have pushed the nib too far, spread the tines, and now sometimes when I put down too much pressure the tines will separate and no ink will flow. Luckily, I have two replacement Jinhao nibs, but for now I'll stick with the wet nib I have. In the first half an hour of use, the pen writes exactly how I want it to, and it exudes ink as freely as what might be considered too wet for the japanese market. However, the feed cannot keep up, and soon afterwards, I have to put down pressure to get the same amount of ink on the paper. This is an endless feedback loop of wetting the nib, spreading the tines, and then fixing the nib to make sure the nibs don't spread too much. Any tips, tricks, and suggestions for a better nib and pen would be greatly appreciated.
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I am a new owner of a Dupont Montparnasse. The feed seems to be of a unique design. There are none of the typical slots that function as ink reservoirs to deal with pressure changes, nor does the nib have the usual breather hole through which you can view the feed slot. Do any of the Dupont experts out there clarify how this manages to deal with pressure changes, ie, is there an alternative to the slots? Thanks for any info!
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Today I took delivery of this Aurora Optima 365 in brown marble. It appears to be in excellent condition, though I have not yet inked it up after an initial flushing. The pen came to me in a box for an entirely different Aurora pen which, while annoying, was not horrible. I pretty much expected that from the sales listing anyway, and I've been on the lookout for just this model so it didn't bother me. What I didn't expect was the deep red ebonite feed. Is this feed color correct for this pen? Does it matter. It does have the correct 18k gold nib. Thanks. EDIT UPDATE -- I asked this question after quite a bit of searching first and not finding an answer. Subsequently, of course, I found the Nibsmith video review which showed the red feed. Got my answer. Thanks anyway. Very happy to have this pen, needless to say. Marc
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Is It Possible To Pull Out The Feed Of Pilot Custom Black Stripe?
cherrymerry posted a topic in Repair Q&A
Hello FPN community. Recently I received my dream pen. And I have a problem: the pen doesn't want to write properly. Of course I flushed it, twice. I guess, may be the main feed channel clogged with old ink, so I need to extract the feed to clean it... It would be great to see your suggestions! -
So I have this Jinhao X750 with a broken feed. It is broken right at the feed post, where the converter attaches. I want to replace it but I don't know how to get the post out. I know this may seem silly for a $10 pen, but I really like it and want to fix it with a new feed (probably an FPR feed). Any tips? Thank you!
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I bought a Sheaffer Prelude Silver Brush “M” Fountain Pen on the Bay (item no. 223837617036) and received it Friday, 3 days ago. This is the made-in-China model, but it seems to have gone to Sheaffer Mexico. The selling price was $38.00. The listing specifies " Condition: New: A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item (including handmade items). See the seller's listing for full details." and "Sheaffer Prelude Silver Brush “M” Fountain Pen. Beautiful and comfortable! Comes in a great Sheaffer gift box, Black as well as a blue ink cartridges and a converter. Condition is New. What a great gift or keep it for yourself! Shipped with USPS First Class Package." The seller has a few dozen fountain pens listed on the Bay. I cleaned and flushed the pen and discovered that it had been dipped in ink. I wrote to the seller on Friday pointing this out and suggested that he be more accurate in his listings or that he flush pens before shipping them. I haven't received a response yet. Nevertheless, I left positive feedback. On Sunday, I examined the nib with a magnifying glass and discovered a defect. On the underside, the black plastic part (the feed?) isn't aligned with the metal part. We're talking about the metal part and the plastic part being an inverted V, with the end of the feed being cut short. In other words, it's more like an inverted U. The straight part of the feed, which goes from right to left, is about 1.5mm wide. The black part is off to the side, about 0.5mm off. It is so badly misaligned that the left hand side (facing up) of the black part extends beyond the metal part. On the right hand side, the metal is exposed. As far as I can tell, the pen writes fine. But, what do I know? With usage, might the nib get distorted? This is a defect, but Is this defect significant enough to return the pen? Would it qualify for Sheaffer's warranty? I haven't written to the seller yet.
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Dear all, I've recently tried 3 bock nibs (all new), all with three sealed cartriges, and all 3 nibs, when pointing downwards, would collect ink quickly between the fins, and if I write like that would burp the ink on paper. None of my other Bock nibs that I've had for a while did this. Now I have another one in hand (for someone else), and it's doing the same thing, using a converter. I am sure there is no air leak anywhere, and to be honest, 4 nibs is way too much of a coincidence. What are your thoughts please?
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I bought this Waterman Expert new in December, 2019. It occasionally skips. When writing on Rhodia paper (No. 18, 80g/m^2), it writes rough. It writes smoother on Tamoe River 52g/m^2 but still skips. I wouldn't say the nib is wet. Does this mean it's dry? The ink I'm currently using is Pelikan 4001 Royal Blue. I filled it July 12, 11 days ago.. Last night, it completely stopped writing. I extracted a little ink with the converter and then it restarted. Could this be the nib? The feed? The cartridge? The pen? I've never in my life gone to a nib meister but wonder if that might help. If so, any recommendations? I'm located in New York City.
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Hi I didn't know where to put this so please delete if this is the wrong place, but... I wanted to know how to pick the right feed for my pen when buying from Fountain Pen Revolution. Here's the link in case anyone wants to see: https://fprevolutionusa.com/collections/5-5-nibs My pen has a feed that is 39mm long but I'm not sure that's what they're measuring here. Any and all help appreciated!
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I have Wing Sung 590 and I accidentally broken the feed. I glued it and it looked ok, then I filled my pen but get a lot of skipping. So I thought that I blocked channels with glue and I deepen the channel with scalpel, then tried to write. The result was even worse. Then I thought that may be I made a channel too deep so I placed a piece of thread at the end of the feed. And it worked! Now the question is: how to reduce depth of the feed? Thanks for any suggestions. P.S. Sorry for bad English.
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It is an unfortunate reality that plastics deteriorate over time. With modern fountain pen feeds typically made of plastic, my beloved collection of 1970s student fountain pens is becoming susceptible to breakage. This holds true for my Montblanc Carrera pens, where the feed post (the bit that protrudes into the cartridge) is prone to breaking off. I would recommend against pressing a new cartridge into old pens with this feed type (not being a fan of using converters, I refill my old cartridges with a syringe). I have found many useful repair tips in this forum and it’s only fair that I share solutions that I have developed. In this article, I will explain a simple feed repair, should you suffer the breakage of the post from the feed. All you need is a drill with small bit, an ear bud and a very small pair of scissors (or a sharp knife). The initial steps are: Drill a small (say 1mm) hole into the centre of the broken feed;Cut a suitable length of plastic from the ear bud;Cut that section of plastic lengthways twice so that about a quarter of the circumference is removed.This is illustrated in the first photo below. On the left you see the small scissors that I used from a small key-chain multi-tool. For an easy comparison, in the photo below, I have placed the broken feed (with hole already drilled into the centre) on the right of an intact feed from another pen. All that is left to do now is to reassemble the pen. The first step is to roll the length of plastic from the ear bud in your fingers, until it has a circular cross section (albeit with a smaller diameter than the original length of ear bud). During assembly, I found it easier to place the new feed post (no glue needed) into the clear section (rather than into the feed itself). This is shown in the picture below. The final picture shows the reassembled pen. The ink flow after the repair is the same as what one would expect from a pen with an intact feed.
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Hi y'all! I have a Montblanc 310 that has quite a gap between the nib and the feed and am not sure of what to do, as I'm not sure whether the gap is the result of the nib being bent upwards or the feed being bent downwards. There's a video showing this pen's tear-down here: https://youtu.be/H57t0ZLfs1Y?t=42 but no the clear piece that joins the section to the barrel on mine just won't budge. Any ideas? I would like to take it apart, so I can either fix the nib properly or apply hot air or water to the feed to bend it upward to have it touch the nib's underside. The pen writes well, but has issues starting after not using it for a day because the ink that fills that gap evaporates. Thanks!!! alex
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i was going to asked if someone has tried to modify their plastic fountain pen feed, how did they do it. Extra bonus if it is a sailor
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To all those who own (tried) both pens, i would like to ask why are western nibs (pelikans specifically) are know to be wetter than the Japanese nibs (considering same nib width on paper and not marking) . Is it because of the feed/nib material or the engineering of the feed/nib ?
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Is increasing the distance between nib and feed increase or decrease ink flow? Why?(concerned about sailors specifically)
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I am new to this forum and network, i was wondering if there is a way to make a sailor write as wet as western writers like pelikans, without changing the line width
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Does anyone know how to remove the nib and feed from a Marlen Alef. With its current clear plastic feed, it has poor flow. I want to fit it with a BHR feed. Merci en avance
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I have a happy smiley-face Kakuno that was brought to me from Japan; I am quite unhappy with it at the moment. I thought it was a cute little pen but it is now giving me difficulty; the nib starts writing and then after a few lines stops unless I shake the pen. Here's what I've done so far: Clean the pen Change the ink Flush the pen Floss the tines None of these interventions has been able to get the pen writing properly again. I do not have a high tolerance for hard-starting pens and if I can't get this issue resolved will let it sit unused in a drawer. Has anyone had a similar experience? If so, were you able to fix it?
