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  1. truthpil

    Diamine Cornflower Ink Review

    Hello again to all my FP friends, [This review has been sitting on my desk for months and I finally got around to posting it. Stay tuned for a comparison of Diamine Cornflower and Penbbs #116 Cornflower.] Diamine needs no introduction on this board. Suffice it to say that they have been making inks for over a century and produce many, many beautiful hues, a lot of which are prone to feathering and bleed through on everyday office paper. This ink up for review is from Diamine’s Flower Series. It is named after the cornflower (centaurea cyanus) which can be various shades of blue or lavender. I’ve never seen the flower in person, but by just comparing with various photographs online, the ink looks like a pretty good match to the flower. Diamine Cornflower is a deep and very saturated blue with a dash of purple. This ink dries quickly on absorbent paper, but has an average dry time on nicer papers. Sheening is nice and shading possible with wet nibs on good paper. It can be quite a stunning color with the write combination. Unfortunately, this ink’s downfall as a daily work ink is its tendency to feather and bleed through. Although feathering with finer nibs wasn’t too bad on copy paper, even the Japanese fine nib produced noticeable bleed. Water resistance is passible; a dark purplish line remains legible. This is a lovely vibrant color that reminds me of a dark counterpart to Noodler’s Baystate Blue. The color is also standard enough that it could be used in most professional environments. They only thing that keeps me from buying a bottle is that the feathering and bleed through make it impossible to use on any paper I would run into outside the house. However, if you like saturated, slightly purplish dark blues and mostly use good paper, then this is not an ink you’ll want to miss. *A special thanks to lapis for sending a sample of this ink to me! Pens used (in order): 1. Pilot 78G Fine 2. Lamy Safari Broad 3. Pilot Plumix Italic 4. Noodler’s Nib Creaper Flex 5. Hero 5028 1.9mm Stub Swab Paper Towel Drop 80gsm Rhodia Tomoe River *Many thanks to Lord Epic for kindly sending me some of this paper! Check out that subtle sheen! 70gms Deli Copy Paper Moleskine Water Resistance Comparison (More blues to be added later) Thanks for reading! SDG
  2. Friends, I'm looking for suggestions for ink for grading/marking student papers. Constraints: I need to avoid feathering and bleed-through on a very wide range of papers used by students. I can't control their paper choices.Drying time is less critical, but still important. I'd like to be able to make a comment, turn the page, and go on reading and writing, not necessarily in a fraction of a second, but within a second or two.I don't want to use black or blue, because students often use these colors themselves.I don't want to use red, because students perceive red comments as hostile, even when they are not.Green, purple, or brown are good color choices, but if you have just the perfect ink in pink or orange or plaid or whatever, do, please, suggest it. Fountain pens are very much my favorite writing implements, but I'm not at all a collector of pens or of inks, though I celebrate those of you who are. I can't afford to experiment with a dozen different pens and inks, so I'm hoping something that will just work will emerge from this obviously stupendously informed body. I'm currently using Waterman Tender Purple ink and an extra-fine nib. This works much of the time, but I still have to switch to a roller-ball much more commonly than I would like. Thanks in advance, Tim
  3. [video=youtube;MvlZJ0iUGuQ] Intro: I like to use Fountain pens at work, and there isn’t always good paper to use, and I really do not like the look of feathering especially if I write something and need to give it to a college. So I was very interested to see if Noodler’s X-feather could be the answer to my woes. I ordered a sample from the Goulet Pen company and set to testing. Testing parameters: I used my Lamy 2000 with a fine nib because I think it was a good simulation with putting just enough ink on the page to test how the ink performs on the page(s). I also needed a “control” so I used the ink that I have been using for a few years now; Lamy Black. I then used three different papers to see how both inks performed on each. The results: There was virtually no difference between the inks both in darkness and in feathering performance. As it would seem Noodler’s X-Feather has no unique properties that prevent it from feathering. I will say that it is a nice performing ink, and the better water-resistant characteristics is the Lamy Black does not have. So in conclusion, if you are looking for an ink to stop feathering then we still need to wait for something, however if you want to have a good performing black ink then both Lamy Black and Noodler’s X-Feather are good choices.
  4. Any ideas? I like stubs, but a VP stub with pilot carts didnt work out. cheers,
  5. The L'Artisan Pastellier Callifolio inks I have stumbled upon are among the best regarding performance and of most interesting colours. Bleu Méditerranée is my favourite, although Atlantique and Equinoxe 6 are not far behind. Two different wet pens (BB and flexible F) on Leuchtturm. The shading, purity of the blue colour and the warm glow can be enchanting. It may not be suitable for official documents but I am ready to stand my ground. The ink is also extremely shy and well behaved and it stays on paper exactly where it should, without spreading and messing around. Bleu Méditerranée on Clairefountaine, Xerox Performer, Leuchtturm and Moleskine. The ink behaves exceptionally on all papers. Samples a and f were written with rather wet pens (BB and M/B). Surprisingly, the lines in the Moleskine notebook and on the Xerox copy sheet are still clearly defined and the colour stays pleasantly vibrant. Usually, colours on these two papers become flat and dull. The greater spread and feathering in b, c, d and e can be attributed to the extremely wet flexible pen which leaves puddles of ink. It took well over three minutes for the three-stripes to dry on Clairefountaine and Leuchtturm. Again, the performance of the ink on my super absorbent papers is way better than most I have ever used. It's rather an extreme setup but shows how brilliant the ink is and illustrates well the advantages of paper designed for the use with fountain pens. Callifolio Bleu Méditerranée is clearly exceptional but I can't really recommend it to everyone for two reasons: possibly insufficient lubrication and relatively low saturation. The ink appears dry and may make a pen feeling scratchy. Lower saturation will leave washed out colours in pens with more restricted flow. However, if someone likes the performance of Diamine Registrar's or Salix but strives for more exotic blue it's a great option.
  6. I would like to enlist the help of you pen ink connoisseurs. I would like to use a grey ink to take notes with for school ( I want keep colors like black and blue to outline important points) and I am not sure which inks would be the best to use on cheaper paper. I would of course be using a fine nib (Kaweco/bock, might try to get an extra fine nib not sure yet), but I'm not sure which grey inks have the best reputation for not feathering on lower quality paper. I'm not too worried about show through, because it being a lighter color it won't be too bad to look at. I want to stay away from extremely light (Gris Nuage) or anything that is close to black, something that is more graphite looking is preferable. Right now the biggest contender is Noodler's Lexington Grey but i'm not sure how well it works on cheap paper.
  7. I am looking for a fast drying blue or black ink that dries quickly and does not feather on cheap paper (mead, copy paper). I am currently using Noodler's bulletproof black with a fine nib metropolitan and although the ink doesn't feather, it takes quite a long time to dry, even on cheap absorbent paper; sometimes after leaving the ink to dry for a day, it still smears when rubbed. The only other ink I've tried is the pilot Namiki black that came with the metro, and that seems to dry fairly quickly, but feathers badly on cheap paper. Bulletproof ink isn't really important for me, any ink that works well with cheap paper and dries fast will do. I have considered Lamy, Quink, Waterman, and Pelikan inks, but I am not sure which one will work the best. Also, is there any ink that works well on whiteout tape? All on the pens I've tried including rollerballs smear horribly on whiteout. Thanks in advance.
  8. sidthecat

    Can A Wet Ink Be Made Drier?

    I got a jar of Tekker custom ink - the color is really nice but it's the wettest thing going! It hoses out of my old Watermans and blurs my writing on my otherwise-bulletproof Baron Fig notebook. Is there a substance that would make an ink write drier?
  9. I'm thinking of making some Tomoe River pads and/or notebooks? What would you like to see here in the UK and in Europe. Open to suggestion. A4? A5? Pads? Bound notepad? Let me know your thoughts..
  10. After parusing around for to long, I decided that questions like this go on a case by case basis. I am having problems with my writing feathering out on the page (by which I mean when I draw a line or write a character, the lines wick outwards and become way to thick, as well as wiskering in some cases), which makes it so many of my characters are illegible. I do all my writing on two things. I use National Brand computation notebooks for permanent things and blank white printer paper for all else. As a engineering student, I go through a lot of paper. I also much prefer to write on non-lined paper. Writing in the notebooks is fine. There is both very little wicking and wiskering. However writing on any other paper can vary from a huge success to a dramatic failure. Lucky for me my checkbook doesnt wick or wisker just like my notebooks. Untill now I had not though about different kinds of inks as a possible solution. It would be really nice to be able to write on every paper regardless of its type or quality. I have been using J Herbin eclat de saphir ink since I started writing primarily in pen. However this ink fades really fast with sunlight exposure. While searching for a solution, I also stumbled upon the concept of wet and dry pens, something I had not heard about beforehand. The pen I use is a Cross Spire with a fine nib. What would be a good ink that doesnt wick or wisker on any paper, which also lasts a long time? I much prefer blue inks. Or does such a thing not exist. Water resilience would also be a nice feature, but if im not mistaken that characteristic comes with not being able to wash it out right? -- Bob
  11. Other than changing paper or ink, any ideas for adding something to your ink to make it feather less.
  12. Recently saw an ad on Amazon for the Monsieur series of notebook. The two reviews of these books are not really enthusiastic. However, the books are made in Great Britian, have leather covers, and seem to be pretty decent for paper. Price is not bad either. So I bought one and here's what I noted about it: Good looking notebook, bought the sketch book since I like unlined paper. Tried my favorite Noodler inks and got good results. Noted that previous reviews compared Monsieur to Rhodia and (gasp) Moleskin. So used the same pens and inks in a Moleskin and a Clairefontaine (no Rhodia in hand), got comparable results. See next post for pictures of the comparison notebooks. What do you think? Comparable? Or not?
  13. Hi I've finally got everything I need to start making Tomoe River pads in the UK. I'll be making all the pads my self, to the same quality that I'd expect for my self. So question is, what would you like? I think making very ornate leatherbound notebooks will be beyond me, but factors such as number of sheets etc would be handy..!
  14. I used a dip nib with Stormy Grey this morning for the first time. Its a very very wet ink! It also feathered on Rhodia as a result. Based on experiments here https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/283167-glitteratipearlmica-and-e415/page-2 I trialled the Experiment 6 concentrate in J Herbin Stormy Grey. Here are the results. Pics of vial bases are just 1 min after shaking. In cases of direct comparison, the first pic is Stormy Grey a la naturel, the second pic is Stormy Grey x Xanthan concentrate blend. The Xanthan blend feathers less and offers far better gold distribution (where ink naturally pools from writing strokes, so does the gold, but it doesn't gold-dump like the original ink). Due to the viscosity change, you also get more letters out of one dip. Disclaimer: only use in a pen that can be fully dismantled for cleaning, and don't leave the blend in the pen unless you are ok with dry starts the next day or anything that might go wrong. Use at your own risk. Details of where the xanthan experiments are up to are in the linked thread. Dehydration tests beyond 57 hours haven't yet been done.
  15. Hello fellow pen people Just wondered how many suitable basic dyes are out there to make ink with. It seems that there are so many inks out there, though i would think there are a set number of suitable "ink" dyes out there. That would mean that one could calculate how many possible combinations are possible, including combinations that might not be aesthetically pleasing. Are new dyes being created at all?
  16. So, I love the color of Baysate Blue, but I've tried it on about half a dozen kinds of paper, and it feathers on everything, even the paper in my favorite notebook at work, which no other ink I've tried has shown feathering in. Does anyone have a recommendation for a specific paper that hasn't produced feathering with Baystate Blue? Thanks.
  17. I've recently become very interested in paper and pulp industries. My endless endeavours to finding the best FP paper really has taken me all over the globe. I've come to realise that the qualities that make a paper FP friendly, normally stem from the predominant use of hardwood pulps. When I initially came to learn, that some of the papers I very much preferred, sourced their pulp from Brazil, I became somewhat concerned. I didn't want to support any industry that was destroying the majestic Amazon rainforest. Later I learnt that this pulp was coming mostly from plantation Eucalyptus, which appeared to yield particularly well in Brazil on short 5-7 year cycles. The trouble with eucalyptus is that it isn't particularly frost tolerant, so has had limited use as a plantation crop in the USA. However that is about to change. Genetically engineered eucalyptus is here. A GM Eucalyptus that is frost hardy is about to have a very substantial field trial in the USA, and if successful, Eucalyptus pulp will become the most economical pulp manufactured in North America as well. Any thoughts? FP paper, or genetically engineered trees in general?
  18. kanaka

    Iroshizuku Feathering

    Friends, I've noticed one phenomenon that holds true across pens, nib widths, flow, and choice of paper: take-sumi is more prone to feathering that tsuki-yo. If one pen can't handle take-sumi, I ink it up with the tsuki-yo and the problem of feathering is solved. For this reason, I use the tsuki-yo as a "therapeutic" ink. Has anyone had this experience? I have only used these two inks. Would you be able to rank feather-proneness across the inks? More importantly, how does Kon-peki do when compared to take-sumi or tsuki-yo? Thanks!
  19. I have some Tomoe river cream sheets, and also some white as well. £10 for 100 sheets, £18 for 200 sheets, and £26 for 300 sheets. Postage is a flat £2 for posting anywhere in the UK, for any quantity up to 500 sheets. I can provide a custom quote for European orders. PM me if interested
  20. I recently purchased 1 oz. of Noodler's Red Fox ink use in an old Lamy Safari I haven't used in a while. I chose this ink due to it's crimson color, bulletproof qualities , and rave reviews on these forums. However, I was incredibly disappointed by the amount of feathering it produced. Granted, Lamy nibs are notoriously large (the EF writes like a M), but the ink is so watery and bleedy that I simply cannot use it. How can a universally praised ink perform so poorly? Is this the case for all red inks? Are there any reds that write tight, solid lines?
  21. What would be considered a fair price for this fabled paper in the UK and Europe more generally? It's possible to see prices in the US at the $11-15$ per 100 sheets, but nothing here!
  22. I noticed a really interesting phenomena the other day. I've got into printing my own dot grid, and noticed that when I did this through my laser printer. Whilst testing the printing, I ran some cheap copier paper through it. Now this same copier paper is awful to write on. It exhibits far to much feathering to write on. When I printed the dot grid on this paper however, the heat from the laser printer seemed to drastically improve it's performance. This evening, I decided to test my hypothesis with an iron and the same copier paper to see what effect it would have. I ironed half the sheet, and left the other half un-ironed. The first photo is written with a Visconti HS stub, with Diamine Salamander. This has a really heavy ink flow, so thought it would be ideal for the test. The second image is from the un-ironed segment of the page. Anyone else come across this phenomena? I get the feeling that this is what Rhodia are doing to their paper..!
  23. I've tried at least 20 different papers over the last two months. I can honestly say that THE VERY BEST is staples 120gsm, and if you tolerate a slighly heavier weight the 160gsm from staples as well. I've been on a bit of a quest lately, and I've tried HP colour laser 100 and 120gsm, Claifontaine DCP 100 and 120 gsm, conqueror, Mondi colour laser 100 gsm, 120gsm, and 160gsm. I've compared smoothness, feathering resistance, and bleed through to both Rhodia and the Clairfontaine triomphe, and the Staples colour laser 120gsm and 160gsm performed as well if not better. It's also incredibly good value, with 250 sheets costing between £6.5-£7.5 depending on the weight you choose. The Staples100gsm was not particularly good so don't bother with it..
  24. I'm not getting very far in my quest to find the ideal plain laser paper suitable for use with a fountain pen! I know that rhodia is a coated paper, and that this coating is what gives it, its great properties when used with aqueous ink used in fountain pens. It never feather or bleeds through, even with my wettest nibs like the Visconti Homo sapiens stub. I realised that most colour laser papers are also coated but most seem to pale into insignificance when compared to rhodia paper. I've tried HP colour laser, staples laser, conqueror super smooth and conquerer bamboo, and mondi colour laser. Although all of these are coated as well, they all seem to feather mor than I would like. After hearing so many great things about HP colour laser, I bought a ream and was quite underwhelmed and disappointed with how badly it feathers and bled through. I've ordered some Clairfontaine DCP, but anticipate it to have similar problems. Any ides of what laser paper, available in bulk have a similar coating to that found on rhodia? Any idea of what rhodia is coated with?
  25. BlotBot

    Best Ink For Cheap Paper?

    I use my fountain pens at work where the paper is made by Skilcraft, and other providers of cheap, crappy stuff. What inks do people find behave well on this stuff? So far, I have found that Platinum Pigmented Blue has low feathering and bleeding on cheap paper.





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