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  1. This is a review on a Newton Pens custom fountain pen. Background. When the Omas Marconi came out I purchased one because it reminded me of one of my all time favorite pens, a Sheaffer Lifetime Pen pre-white dot flat top. That pen had a huge thick manifold BB nib, gold clip and no trim whatsoever. I would still consider it one of the best everyday pens, exhibiting simplicity and elegance, were it not for its extreme rarity. Except for the frilly trim, the Omas is very similar. Its size, shape, and balance suit my hand very well. It was just too rare and expensive to risk using at work every day. I contacted Omas to inquire about pulling one off the line and omitting the trim and the fancy engraved nib, but they regretted to inform me that limited production runs were basically one off’s and they would not be offering the pen as a no frills standard model. So, many years later, with many custom pen makers to choose from, I contacted Shawn Newton of Newton Pens about making a no frills copy but with a twist. I had read glowing reviews of his work and his experimentation using Esterbrook nib units, and having saved many Estie nibs from my collecting days, I asked if he would incorporate his latest design into the pen along with a section o-ring to keep the ink where it belonged. He was up for it so what follows is the result. Size. Here is a comparison with some other pens readers may be familiar with. (left to right: Pelikan 100N, Parker 51, Aurora 88K, Aurora 88, Aurora Aquila 88K, Waterman JIF, OmaNewtonEster) And again. Performance. From the start I wanted to use Esterbrook 9 series manifold nib units but I did not consider the feed design up to the task of handling ink flow properly in a large volume eyedropper. Anticipating blotting problems, I added a few nib/feed combinations for testing. (top to bottom: original Esterbrook 9460 w/original feed, early Pelikan B w/modern Pelikan feed, early Pelikan manifold B w/Schmidt FH452 feed) As expected, the Esterbrook unit blotted like a Waterman eyedropper from the 1800’s. In all fairness, it was not screwed in tightly and I may try it again after I machine an air channel in the feed. The Pelikan/Schmidt combination has worked flawlessly regardless of the amount of ink in the pen. I have not yet tried the Pelikan/Pelikan combination. (pelikan manifold nib) (schmidt FH452 feed) Fit and finish. I sent Shawn some blue ebonite rod stock for this project. It does not color match the Omas, but it’s a nice color. My first choice was a solid dark blue cellulose acetate with the same formulation as the Esterbrook J’s but that was wishful thinking. The machined surfaces and threading are excellent, as one would expect from Newton Pens. Nothing rattles, it’s a solid pen. Balance. The pen is a slightly heavier weight than the other above pens (with the exception of the Aquila) and the balance point is centered or slightly forward, which is what I requested. It does not skip on the up or down stroke, or on long high speed lines, which again, is what I need all my pens to do. (quick writing sample) Price. At around $200 it’s a bargain considering its custom made. Overall rating. Excellent!!!
  2. Today I attended my first pen meet with fellow fountain pen enthusiasts in my area of Manila. I went home with a few bottles of ink, a Sheaffer VFM, and my very first Esterbrook. It's a green Esterbrook J (I don't know exactly what kind of green this is). The nib is a beautiful 9968 firm broad which writes so smooth and wet. I filled it with Diamine Meadow, a happy shade of green to fit its vibrant color. I am surprised with how smooth this pen writes, and I'm pleased that I got it at a good price (about $38).
  3. I have long been fascinated by the way sellers of Esterbrook pens include a nib - often, on the bay, including the number of the nib in the item title as if that is somehow inherent to the pen itself. Somewhere in my 40 years of collecting, I lost that association and always think of the pens, on the one hand, and of the nibs, on the other hand, but not really as essentially linked. If I am shopping for a pen, I want a particular pen and am not really concerned about the nib that comes with it; if I am shopping for a nib, I'll even weigh buying a pen I don't want if that's the only way I can get that nib. I doubt I can ever do it, but one of my Estie fantasies is having a good (if not NIB) example of every Renew Point that Esterbrook ever made. As it is, I have about 45 individual nibs, but that includes a lot of duplicates (once you get obsessed with nibs generally, the next stage of the illness is becoming obsessed about individual examples of each nib; alas, "new in box" doesn't really mean anything except that there is a box; if you can't inspect the pen in person before purchasing, you may or may not be getting a "new" point); I seem to have about 16-20 different model examples (the exact quantity depends in part on whether I should count perfectly functional points that have some damage to the feed, and in part on how many I have tucked unthinkingly into a drawer and might find again some day when cleaning). Despite -- or perhaps because of -- all that, I can't tell you my favorite. Because so many of those being sold have been heavily (and, I presume, lovingly) used, they are all different, and each also works slightly differently in different pens. I am almost amazed Esterbrook was able to sell them as they did - if I could go back in time, I'd want to grab 10 truly brand new nibs of any single number and a Dip-less pen and sit down to see how standard they were back when you had no doubt they were "NIB." That said, I write small and therefore like the finer points much better, usually those in the 40s and 50s (e.g., 1421, 1550, 1551, 2048, 9051, etc.). Oddly (to me, anyway) I find I often like the 1000 or 2000 series better than the 9000s. So, which do you have, and which are your favorites? How often do you interchange them? Julia
  4. Hi all, I have one little Esterbrook pen and to me it looks like multiple pens. Can someone kindly tell me what I have purchased? It was purchased from a dealer, not on ebay. What is it? How old is it? Best nib? My concern is that the jewel caps seem wrong for the pen and match the grip. I knew the grip didn't match the barrel when i purchased, but thought it was okay because the jewels matched. Did someone just cobble this together? Also... I recently purchased an unopened box of Esterbrook dip nibs, Assortment #11. I cannot find anywhere what the contents are. Is it worth more to leave intact or should I open the box and use some and sell/trade the others?? Seems to be the latest version of box. Thanks all for ANY help!!
  5. There was in another post in this same Esterbrook forum an unexpected interest in Esterbrook pens made in Mexico ("HECHO EN MEXICO"), and I promised to look for some of them… Now, until now I could find two in a repair shop in downtown Mexico City, and I am advertising them in the Clasifieds section under the title "Two Esterbrook Lj “Hecho En Mexico” - Without A Nib" I attach here the photos, so you can see right away if the thing is interesting for you. PEN 1 (Coppery): Pen 2 (Reddish-brown):
  6. Venemo

    Esterbrook 2550 Vs 9556

    After experiencing how pleasurable the Esterbrooks are, I'm buying a dark grey Esterbrook J. I have a choice of nibs. I can get the 2550, 9556 and 2556 for the same price or a 2048 for an additional ~$50. At the moment I don't have an additional $50 (and as a leftie, I wouldn't have much use for a flex nib anyway), and I think that the 2556 is just a weaker version of the 9556, so that's out of the question too. So I managed to narrow the choice down to the 2550 (firm extra fine for bookkeeping) and the 9556 (firm fine, for fine writing). I'm looking for opinions and experiences. Which one should I get? How well do they perform? Is either of them scratchy?
  7. betweenthelens

    Early Esterbrook Inkwell

    My husband spotted this in Sodus Bay, New York, on one of our antiquing forays. He said, "Is this anything?" I don't collect inkwells or should I saw I didn't collect inkwells. Thanks to Brian Anderson at Anderson Pens for his encyclopedic knowledge of Esterbrooks. I sent him these photos and he gave me quite a bit of information. It is much appreciated. http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee513/betweenthelens/IMG_4479_zps581cf0cc.jpg http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee513/betweenthelens/IMG_4480_zps18b96730.jpg http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee513/betweenthelens/IMG_4483_zps9f4d4411.jpg http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee513/betweenthelens/IMG_4481_zps638dc745.jpg http://i1231.photobucket.com/albums/ee513/betweenthelens/IMG_4482_zps09e072d8.jpg
  8. R.D. Herring

    Esterbrook 354 Dip Pen Holder

    I was helping my grandparents clean out their basement this past weekend and found an old lap desk that belonged to my grandmother's first husband. While looking through the thing, I came across a couple of Esterbrook 354 nibs. According to my grandmother, there was a nib holder that went with them, but it was apparently lost when she from New Jersey to North Carolina in the late '80s. I would like to put these nibs to use, but I am unsure what holder I should use. Would any nib holder work? If not, which brand and/or model would you recommend? Thank you
  9. Hello all, I have a green Esterbrook SJ that I got of the bay and re-sacced and all. But it leaked from the base of the section. Looking closely there is a crack in the section (perhaps someone over-tightened the nib). So if someone has a replacement section they can sell me, please drop a note on this thread. I have no idea what a section should go for. Thanks! cheryl
  10. In a $$ pinch you may not have to fork out for a tap set - you might try the following. I removed a J inner cap using a storage hook as a substitute tap. The hook is basically a lag screw which has been bent into a long flat "U." The stage was set when I disassembled a decent (outside) looking J w/2556 nib I recently bought. The barrel jewel was broken, a corroded half of a J-bar (couldn't find the other half), clip was floating on the eyelet, floating band, rusted C ring, and no sac. Sac tray in decent shape, threads OK, and the barrel, cap and section OK with some use - no bites, dings, or deep scratches. I hand drilled out the barrel jewel and proceeded to do so with the cap. Problem -- I drilled through the inner cap. Anyway, I knew I had to get the inner cap out in order to fix the floating clip. So while the cap was soaking in a lightly soapy solution I tried to remember what was in my arsenal in the garage I could readily get at that would work. I had read it needed to be 5/16in but what was recommended - a tap - was out of the $$ realm for me. I figured the next best would be some sort of screw with sharp threads, but what I found were either too small or lacking the "proper" threads. It is hot and muggy here - and inside the garage probably 10-15 degrees hotter than outside. Frustration building for what I had expected to be a quick delivery. Walked around, outside and back in. There they were begging for a chance to do there part. Hanging from the ceiling were these ladder or bike storage hooks. I was pretty sure I had a couple stashed in one of the containers. Hoping it was the first one -- I pulled the one where I kept fasteners and such. There were two inside waiting for a test run. I barely rinsed out the cap and set the screw in to do its work. First try it slipped; second try there was purchase and the inner cap came partially out. It was stuck in the threads!! Luckily I had already drilled out part of the cap's jewel - through there I pushed a small diameter hex wrench and lightly tapped the inner cap out. Finally!! For anyone wishing to try it. Lag screws can be bought at most hardware stores. I would not buy a storage hook as the threads are not consistently sharp the length of the screw. Make sure it is 5/16in for a J, has sharp threads, and is long enough. Most have 8-9 threads per inch - the more threads the better I think. Cut off the first thread (root) and file it down so it will not pierce the inner cap. Having measured the depth of the inner cap mark off a slightly shorter length on the lag screw. Remember that the lag on the screw may not be the same taper as that of the inner cap. Then go for it. Disclaimer: I am clearly not responsible for any damage as a result of YOU repeating part or all of the information provided in this post. Anything can go wrong and it will. So if you have a spare test cap try it first.
  11. I just bought what I think is a cx100 at the flea market (it would be my very first Esterbrook). It is a solid blue lever filler, all soft plastic including the section. The cap is loose and the threads are worn out and it came with a 9550 nib. Cost me a little less than 5 dollars. Does it sound like a cx100? Is there any hope of fixing the threads? Did I pay too much? Thanks for your help guys!
  12. KarenD

    New Member

    Hi: I've started collecting the Esterbrook J series to add to my mother's blue J from her high school years. However, this has now spread into the Waterman ink vue series (yikes!) as I have found two with a discount (an emerald ray and a Type two in a black and burgundy colour. I have no clue as to their condition and hear that they can be tricky to restore. Hopefully, the repair place I have found will have had some experience with them. What would be a good quality ink to use in my vintage pens? Many thanks for suggestions and I will post pictures of my pens when I receive them.
  13. I put an Osmiroid M Italic on what of my Esties and will not take it off. It is smooth and soft and artsy... I am practicing my handwriting with it. But it is not entirely an Esterbrook that way, right? but I need the ease of use. Another one has the 1554 which I love, scratchy but not too much and great for drawing.That is the only purpose of that Esterbrook. Could be great for making notes in small areas of a document, like when I pay my bills and write it down on a special notebook. The third one has the best nib I have used which is the 2668. Soft, wet, medium, the average and perfect for everything. Not extraordinary, but almost as soft as my Lamy Safari What will I use on the fourth Esterbrook that is arriving this week? --- I wish I could say I have the 2048, seems like a nice to have. In my nibs inventory I also have a 9314 M that I think I don't know how to use. Super scratchy unless I tilt it. It's in its box, have to use it when I can dedicate time to it. Should I always tilt it to write? Is that how it is supposed to be? I also have a Medium Venus and Linton that I bought just to make sure I would always have nibs. Which one is better? I am very interested on having a verdict on the Venus and Linton. Future plans: On the mail is an Osmiroid pen that comes with a B6 nib and another package with several Osmiroid nibs. That will be a great experiment and experience. NOTE: I have not tried the Linton but the Venus M is similar to the 1554. I can use it as a substitute if I ever need it. I welcome any suggestions on nibs that are desirable for Esterbrooks. Thank you! BTW: My goal is to have a sample of all the colors that the SJ came in. That is the only organized collection I will ever have.
  14. Finally, I decided on my next pen and it is going to be a blue Esterbrook. Just a notch higher above my first acquisitions. The lure of thsi pen is remmebering it was coming when I was growing up, the nostalgia of it. The seller says says that the sac was replaced and the buyer has 100% good feedback (EB) in thousands of transactions so I expect I will not be disappointed. I read a little and I am also interested in the Osmiroid sketch nib. Hope there are some samples around here I can see and evaluate for the next move. Wish me luck and many writings! Now, what will be the next?
  15. white_lotus

    Standard J-Bar Too Long?

    Hello FPN repair gurus! I'm working on fixing up my first J with a sac tray. The old j-bar had rusted and broken. So I ground down the channel edges on a new j-bar, slip it into the barrel, install new section with sac. And the new j-bar can't be depressed. Apparently it's too long and it meets the section nibble. I've checked the depth to the end of the sac tray, and the depth of the installed j-bar, and it seems that it has gone fully to the back of the tray. I guess I can take the Dremel and saw off a bit of the j-bar. Is this usual to have to do this? Or should I have ordered smaller j-bars? I'm using 54mm j-bar. Thanks for advice! From what I've found searching, the j-bar goes within the sac tray, not behind it. And one result did seem to say they had to shorten the j-bar. Not sure if that's normal procedure though...
  16. The Esterbrook is a very popular pen among fp fans, but since they were already retailing at $35 when I first saw them, I have always kept away. For that price, I could get a Sheaffer with a 14k nib that needs an easy resac. I know that it's not hard to find cheaper ones, but I wasn't looking very hard I guess. Last week I placed a bid on a restored Estie on a whim - $23. Not cheap, considering it had the 1555 GREGG nib that comes with a bad reputation. The pen came today, and I am floored by its beauty. The 1555 nib is a bit harsh on the horizontal stroke, and perfect vertical stroke. It writes with a beautiful wet line. A Transitional J with the 'toaster top" in Red. A beautiful pen. I love the red so much, I gotta get all the reds, at least. So I am looking at the J, LJ and SJ right? And the transitional with the flat jewel? Please tell me there's no more! I don't need any more pens! http://i.imgur.com/C51vgOd.jpg
  17. So I've been around this site for a year now, and heard multiple times how wonderful Esterbrooks are, but haven't used one. The other day I happened across an Ebay auction, minimum bid of 10 bucks, and no bids. I figured I would low ball it, lose it, and move on. Except I won. Here's the auction. http://www.ebay.com/itm/360942433314?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT So I expect it needs a resac, but that's not a problem, I have a few other pens kicking around in the same condition, I can put an extra sac in my next order. I'm just a little worried I missed something. I didn't check the pics very carefully before bidding (my max was $13, expected to be outbid), but on closer examination this evening, I can't see any issues. No cracks, chips, or dings, and the jewels are in good shape. The nib is just a 2668, but seems to be in good shape. Is there some other reason that no one else bid on this pen, or did I just get it for what seems to me like a decent price, $17 shipped? JS
  18. I picked up a new (to me) Esterbrook recently: a blue J with a 2668 nib in really great condition: no cracks or noticeable scratches, has a clear, strong imprint, good nib, new sac, etc. The grip section is very discolored though-- it goes from black, to off-black, to olive green. Is there any way to re-blacken the section safely? If not, where's a good source for replacement sections? I've done some cursory searches on Ebay but I'm not sure if I'm looking at the right items. Thanks!
  19. ellenspn

    Do I Take It Apart Now...

    ...or wait until after the Chicago show? Have a cute little copper J that I picked up off of e(vil)Bay and was wondering if I should take the pen apart now and see how bad the insides are or just pick up all the parts I might need while at the show and take it apart after that?
  20. cednocon

    Esterbrook Used In Wwii?

    Dear Esterbrook Collectors, I am currently working on a short story--a personal graphic novel project--set during the final days of WWII. I understand that there were fountain pens made by Watermans and Mabie Todd that were specifically meant to be used efficiently by servicemen in the trenches. But I am curious to know if there were any stories or records of Esterbrooks that were used on the battlefield? But perhaps someone did--to write letters home or to document his daily life as a soldier in a small journal? In any case, I'm currently new to collecting Esties and I've yet to explore the brand's entire pen history. Thanks for your time -- I appreciate any advice on this subject/topic. Regards.
  21. jaelkthompson

    She Finally Says, "hello"

    Hello, Everyone! I am about a year into my fountain pen habit, and while I've used The Fountain Pen Network extensively for research, I've only recently signed up for a user account, and I've never posted. Today, the silence comes to an end!!!!! About a year ago, I purchased my first fountain pen, a Pilot Metropolitan, and it has been all downhill, on a trail of Sargasso Sea blue, from there. I am in LOVE with collecting fountain pens and discovering which brands and designs pique my interest most. Until today, I've been all about Pilots (and my EDC which is a TWSBI Mini), and thanks to eBay's notable seller, speerbob, (who is the most AWESOME person that I've purchased anything from btw), I have been gradually feeding my addiction by amassing a small collection of Japanese and Korean Pilots, circa 1970-1990 (can that be considered "vintage"?). Nevertheless, thanks to The Atlanta Pen Show today and a wonderful experience that I had meeting an FPN moderator, who has a treasure trove of pen knowledge, a new obsession begins!!! Enter ESTERBROOK! Today I picked up two TWSBI Mini-sized Esterbrooks, a Copper SJ and a Pearl Gray H (Dollar Pen), and these pens are gorgeous! I love the compact size, the smooth pearl finish and the filing system. The 1555 nib is a dream writer for my F & EF-nib preferred style, though I am not so fond of the 2668 nib which writes rather scratchy. (I am taking a little micro mesh to this nib.) Most of all, I love how easily I can swap the nibs on these pens and the wide range of options available!! Needless to say, I am beaming with delight, and I owe my new analog love interest to an FPN contact! So I am very excited to be a part of this community, and I look forward to meeting more of the FPN family and obsessing with the uber-obsessed! Sincerely, Jael
  22. If only it weren't so small. I love writing with this pen.
  23. I am starting to wonder if these things are like wire clothes hangers - multiplying on their own while my back is turned. I got an Eight Ball. I think it came in with some other stuff I bought on ebay. I really do. And then I wanted one desk pen for it. I now have four Estie desk pens here on my desk, one plain black Estie that lacks a cap and might like to be thought of as a desk pen, and another bona fide desk pen coming in the mail. I have the Eight Ball. I have another Eight ball lacking the plastic part - I stuck a bead with a hole just the right size in there. I wrapped up a piece of black foam to fill in the neck of a very small vase for a third one. A fourth is in some other brand of pen holder - no, that's the Sengbush, I had to put it somewhere... Everywhere I turn there is an Estie desk pen... I am going to have to open a hotel. One on the desk in every room. It is my destiny.
  24. Gloucesterman

    Wow, An Ergonomic Estie On Ebay

    Saw this ad on eBay and thought to myself, was Uncle just blowing smoke or does this seller seriously believe? Of course, you can see that the jewel is hanging out a little, but I am sure that's just an adjustable counterweight to make the pen handle better when writing round letters or executing an analog "word-wrap"! http://www.ebay.com/itm/ESTERBROOK-CURVED-SHAFT-PEN-WEAREVER-FOUNTAIN-PEN-JOSEPH-GILLOTTS-LOT-RARE-/221354363762?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3389bf8b72 Your perspectives are welcome... I was going to attach a picture but thought that might be a copyright infringement. Would it be??
  25. Aray924

    Looking To Buy And Esterbrook

    I am looking to buy an Esterbrook and i am wondering what the average price of a J series is? what is a reputable website to buy them from? What are some things i should be wary of?





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