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Found 18 results

  1. I have been looking for a vintage cursive italic pen for a while (especially a Swan) but they seem a bit difficult to find. So I've thought about looking for a more modern pen with a cursive italic nib, or with a stub nib. How are those two different from each other? (and their related cousin, an oblique?) I have a vintage Pelikan with an oblique nib which is tremendous fun. And I've read about these three nib types and their differences. But if anyone out there has all three types (cursive italic, stub, and an oblique nibbed pen), I would love to see comparative writing samples (whether they are vintage pens or not) and to hear what you think of all three. And because I am still most intrigued by the cursive italic nibs/pens, it would be very interesting to hear what your favorite cursive italic pen(s) might be, either vintage or modern. ~ madeline
  2. Over the years I've acquired a suite of pens with modified nibs, and I thought it would be interesting and possibly useful to show a progression of different nib sizes. These are all Nakaya nibs modified by John Mottishaw, all are loaded with Pelikan Blue Black ink, and the samples are written on Rhodia 80 gsm paper with a line spacing of 7 mm. I also included samples from a few other pens for comparison. The nib grinds vary from stub to cursive italic - the smooth cursive italics are somewhere in between. For those, I asked John to grind the nib to provide as much line variation as possible while still being smooth enough for everyday use (credit goes to dcpritch for that one). The flows are given on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being the wettest, and the values are what I requested John to set them at. Enjoy!
  3. Hello again to all my FP friends! I just wanted to share some writing samples of the 4 nibs I had custom ground by fpnibs.com (no affiliation, just a satisfied customer). Their work is fantastic, reasonably priced, and with excellent service. These nibs all write wonderfully. The 1.1 Oblique Cursive Italic is especially dreamy and now a daily user for me.
  4. Vunter

    Cursive Italic Vs Stub

    I am purchasing an Italix Parson's Essential and plan on getting it with a Stub Nib, however, Mr. Pen has slightly different wording than Goulet Pens blog post so I am bit confused. Mr. Pen calls the stub Cursive Stub and Italic (Medium Italic, Fine Italic, and Broad Italic). Goulet Pens calls the stub Stub and Italic Cursive Italic. Where I am getting confused is the word Cursive. Is a cursive stub the same as a stub? and is a cursive italic the same as the above italics? Of course, I know the size differences between medium, fine, and broad.
  5. This poll isn't about my handwriting - or anybody else's; it's about preferences when reading handwriting in general. http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m496/gclef1114/Gibberish/imag0001.jpg This poll isn't about my handwriting - or anybody else's; it's about preferences when reading handwriting in general.
  6. mfyorulmaz

    Italic Nib Comparison

    Hi, I learnt a lot from this forum and here is my payback...I want to share my comparison of couple of my Italic pens/nibs. Enjoy... The pens/nibs are: 1-Pelikan M800 BB Cursive Italic by John Mottishaw. Line variation ~x4 (1.0mm/0.25mm) 2-Lamy 1.1mm (standard calligraphy pen). Line variation ~x1.8 (0.9mm/0.5mm) 3-Nakaya Decapod Twist Aka Tamenuri BB Cursive Italic by John Mottishaw. Line variation ~x3.6 (0.9mm/0.25mm) 4-Montblanc Boheme Oblique Medium (original Montblanc nib; no customization). Line variation ~x2.0 (0.8mm/0.4mm) The meaning of the sentence in the pics is "The biggest pleasures become mundane if they are repeated excessively" Observations: John Mottishaw's Cursive Italic nibs are similar to Osmoroid/Manuscript calligraphy pens in terms of nib sharpness but feels not as cheap. They are definitely sharper than Lamy Italic nibs but not so much as to bother for daily writing. Nib is sharp but not too sharp to catch paper. Given that stubs are too blunt for me Cursive Italic is definitely perfect for my taste. These pens can perfectly be used for daily writing. I asked John to make Pelikan 1.0mm and Nakaya 0.9mm. Based on my measurements they are exactly as I wanted... Finally, for daily note taking, 1.0mm seems little bit too bit. My miniscules are getting too big for my taste. On the other hand 0,8mm is too small to some enough line variation. Therefore, for me 0.9mm is the optimum nib size for daily note taking. Let me know what you think... Thanks
  7. I have a Lamy 2000 with Cursive Italic grind on the (originally) Broad nib. I find that it is way too wet for the smooth papers such as Tomoe River that I like. Is there a good way to reduce the flow without disassembling the pen, pulling the nib out of the hood, tweaking, reassembling it to test, and repeating all this until I get it right? Thanks!
  8. Hi all, I'm considering purchasing a pen that has a double broad nib that I'm told has been ground to a crisp italic. I've used cursive italics and still find them a bit sharp on the edges for me and would prefer a smooth cursive italic (or even a stub). Is it possible to regrind the nib to a smooth cursive italic? I'd certainly be willing to give up some of the width of the nib to do so since it started as a double broad. Thanks for the advice.
  9. A 2014 video on transforming an inexpensive standard steel nib into a cursive italic stub, produced by Nathan Tardif of Noodler's Ink, suggested a hacking experiment with the nibs of Jinhao 599 pens. The pens are currently available on eBay for $2 or less. I started with a Jinhao 599 with a Medium nib because this particular pen uses a more traditional nib with a slightly longer body and tines, unlike the more modern-looking nib on Fine versions of the 599. The investment in materials, tools, and equipment totals about $10, so there is very little risk involved. The question behind the experiment is: Can a rank amateur lop off the tip from a medium nib on a Jinhao 599 and make it write fairly well -- or, more ambitious -- make it write smoothly? To my great surprise, the answer is yes. Another contributor to the Fountain Pen Network, Ian the Jock, has confirmed the experiment with a $2 Baoer pen. I've tried this technique twice now -- the first time with a Jinhao x450, sometimes available for $1, shipped from China (!) I accidentally lopped off too much of the Jinhao x450 no. 6 nib, resulting in a 1.7 mm cursive italic stub. It was rather broad, but still wrote well. For people who like to learn on Chinese pens and try other types of nibs, there is very little stopping us. Resources and results of the experiment are posted below. Nathan Tardif's Nib Transformation Video The Method Using a pair of diagonal cutters, lop off the tip of the nib. In Tardif's video, he just does it by sight. Place 2000-grit wet-dry automotive abrasive paper on a hard surface and smooth off all the external sharp edges. It only takes a few strokes. Then pick up each tine and use the abrasive paper to make a couple of light passes on the inner surface of the tines. Ensure the tines are aligned, and the gap between tines is moderate. A 10x loupe is essential for this. A separate video, by Brian Gray of Edison Pen Company, is helpful here, as are notes available on Richard Binder's website. http://www.richardspens.com/pdf/workshop_notes.pdf Brian Gray's Nib Alignment Video The Nib and Pen A Writing Sample
  10. I'm about to make my first foray into the world of customized nibs and I'm having trouble deciding whether to go with a Pendleton Brown butter-line stub or a Mike Masuyama round-nose cursive italic for a Pilot 823. I'm looking for a nib width of approximately 0.4mm on the downstroke for use as a daily writer - I write fairly small with lots of math (small subscripts/superscripts are an issue to me). This is a sample of my normal handwriting when note-taking (stock pilot M nib). Any perspective on which one to pick would be greatly appreciated. In particular, I'm wondering: how the two customizations compare in terms of line variation and forgivingness (I normally normally hold the pen at a 45-degree angle to the paper, with a little bit of inconsistent rotation as well)how controllable the thickness of a line put down by MM's RNCI is - this post mentions that the BLS's line width can be controlled by the amount of pressure put into it; is the RNCI capable of something similar? The ability to put down a finer line when necessary would be great for subscripts.how the BLS looks up close - there's a picture of the RNCI up-close here, but I haven't been able to find a similar pic for the BLS.Thanks!
  11. trulylefty

    Prera Italic Nib Width?

    Hi, Anyone know the nib width of the Cursive Medium nib that comes on some Preras? And is that the width of the nib itself, or the line that it draws? Thanks
  12. Hello everybody! I'm planing to buy a double ended pearl from Edison, one nib is going to be a full flex from Richard Binder and the second one is a problem ... I know for sure, that I want a nib with line variation, but which one? For comparison I have only my Lamy nibs in 1,1 (which is just not broad enough for me and doesn't give the line variation I'd like), the 1,5 (which I like) and the 1,9 (which is my favorite). As far as I read, most compare the Lamy nibs to stubs, right? So I'd be intrigued to have a cursive italic for comparison. But that would leave me with 1,1 which sounds small. 1,5 sound better, but that would be a stub again ... Can anyone compare the line variations given by these two nibs? Which one gives more variation? Cause in the end that's more important to me (at least I think so) than the broadness. Thanks for the input, Tari
  13. Which nib of yours is the one to which all comparisons are made? What is it about this nib that makes this "The nib to rule them all"? Mine is the factory stub on an Aurora 88. Absolutely perfect! Perfect ink flow, perfect line variation, perfectly balanced, perfect feedback. I in fact use this as my standard description of what I want when customising.
  14. I recently won an Ebay auction for a F-C Model 27 Diamondline - really a beautiful pen. One selling point was the advertised custom nib by Michael Masuyama, said to be a medium cursive italic. The pen arrived well-packaged and in excellent shape, and under magnification the nib shows evidence of grinding. However it seems both a bit dry and somewhat rough, not at all what I was expecting. I've tried several different angles of pen to paper, with only minor affects. I'm normally an EF-F writer, so this is really a first foray for me. Should this nib be a bit scratchy?
  15. I ordered Lloyd Reynolds's short book on italic caligraphy and handwriting, and I was discussing it with my husband. "I'm really excited about this book, because I've gotten interested in italic handwriting. I love my Lamy 2000, which I got secondhand, but it has a broad oblique nib, and it doesn't work so well with my usual handwriting, which is looped cursive and it's kind of narrow and angular." "So you're getting new handwriting to go with your pen." "Yes. Is that weird?" "Yes. Yes, it is."
  16. I have been using the nib customization services of Pendleton Brown for a couple of years now. I thought it was past time for me to post some samples of his fine work. In my opinion Pendleton is a living treasure. Invariably when I send him a pen it comes back to me writing much better. Some times it is like a different pen altogether the improvement is so great. I have gotten the full gamut of customization work from him, soft stubs and super crisp italics on both hard and flexible nibs. While all his work is phenomenal my favorite are my flexible crisp Italics. I am posting some of my favorites here. At this point I send almost every new pen I get to Pendleton. I have his GA address saved as a favorite in PayPal. Despite my wholly positive comments here I have no association with Pendleton, financial or otherwise. Feel free to ask me any questions about the attached 20 or so pens.
  17. In the 16th century the angular Chancery hand which developed in Italy (often referred to today under the generic name of Italic) was, in Spain, made more rounded (under the influence of the Redondilla mercantile hand?) and so a new b=astard hand: the Spanish, was begotten. This hand continued to be used into the 20th century (I believe) alongside Inglesa/English Roundhand. I have scanned this set of plates, printed from steel engravings, of D. Juan Folguera y Plandolit's calligraphy, which I think accompanied a book written by him. They were published in 1853, according to the wrapper they came in. In plate 1, the slant is 60 or 61 degrees and the angle of the nib 35 degrees. The height of the minuscules is approx. 8mm and the caps. 16mm. When writing this hand, the paper is tilted to the left so that it is parallel with your arm as you may see below. This hand was written with a straight cut broad edged nib and today you could use a Wm. Mitchell Round-Hand pen, for example. Hi-res Scans are here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/21860485@N06/sets/ These are long out of copyright, so they are to free to use for whatever you want. They are copyright free. Some smaller images: http://i.imgur.com/JEdemXwh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/4EZx6UUh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/UPC78EIh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/RSu1Ak0h.jpg Here is an original example of this style of writing, written by the Spanish calligrapher Vicente Valliciergo http://i.imgur.com/chwyEVs.jpg That example is from this useful and interesting blog which has much on calligraphy and Spanish calligraphy: http://bibliotypes.blogspot.co.uk/2012/03/la-caligrafia-espanola-en-el-siglo-xix.html From the same blog, these images from other Spanish calligraphy books show posture and how to hold the pen for writing this hand (the hold on the left in the case of the 2nd image, the one on the right being for English Roundhand). http://i.imgur.com/b3Jpoqv.jpg http://i.imgur.com/iKVKc1R.jpg
  18. Is it possible to re grind an M800 nib and get a similar experience as one would with an Aurora 88 with a factory stub? I recently bought an Aurora 88 from John Mottishaw, not customised but just a factory stub which he tuned, which has completely blown me away. I've been using M800s almost exclusively for work for about six years now and just wanted to see what all the fuss was about concerning feedback with Aurora nibs. I just find it a fantastic nib to write with, and seems to work with almost any kind of paper that I encounter (I work in a hospital, where paper quality varies a lot!). The trouble is I love the M800 in terms of design generally, but love the Aurora stub nib. Is it possible to regrind a Pelikan M800 to feel like an Aurora? I had a BB M800 nib reground to cursive italic by John Sorowka, and have been mightily impressed with the result. Just wanted to know if I can achive something more like the Aurora by having a regrind, and what would that be? Any help would be very much appreciated...!





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