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  1. Dip Pen Users, If you write for a long time at one sitting, do you periodically clean the nib of your pen? Do you ever let your pen sit while you pause and then have to clean it before dipping again? I am just curious about your handling procedures.
  2. I have a waterman crusader, and i want to clean it out more thoroughly because the suck water in and out takes a long time(long long time, even longer when i'm using that vintage sheaffer skrip royal purple or whatever it is) and most of my pens have removable feeds and all that which makes cleaning a loadton(most are modern) i was just wondering if i could, if it was easy and relatively risk free(most are, more modernwise) if it's not an easy task, i can always continue this way, but it's still a pain in the butt and i've never managed to 100% to get that purple out. Ok so edit: realized i didn't put enough info on the pen. It's a Waterman Crusader with an open semiflex gold nib. black body, gold and silver cap.
  3. Armand.D

    My Parker 45.. What To Do ?

    Hello all, I purchased on ebay as a new pen this parker 45 for 20€.. (maybe too expensive but in europe from what i've seen a 45 can be expensive!) and it seems to has been used well. I surely need to clean it, so what do you think it's the best way to do it ? I heard about an "easy" unscrewing of the nib, and talking about it can you assure me that it is a 14k gold or not ? I will have to open the pen, but as there are silver looking parts on the nib the kind of it appears pretty sure to myself.. I want to do all of this correctly to have a nice "restored" FP, even if the seller said that it was working (I have not tested it yet) nobody knows. (i don't know if running water is enough, if not i think that herbin cleaning flush would be good, i live next to paris so it wouldn't be hard to find) + The auction was a little strange, because he wrote on Ebay that the nib was "de oro" (gold) and the pen "azul" (navy but he's green, the picture was correct so i guess it's a fail, it doesn't upset me as normally it works, it's ebay after all..). I buyed this after advices that were given to me here, so i'm still happy to have this pen even "that" used, I trully think that this pen can give a cool writing experience (that it will in my student life), i'm waiting for your advices ! Pictures → http://image.noelshack.com/fichiers/2014/52/1419801740-a.jpg http://image.noelshack.com/fichiers/2014/52/1419801762-c.jpg http://image.noelshack.com/fichiers/2014/52/1419801771-d.jpg http://image.noelshack.com/fichiers/2014/52/1419801782-e.jpg http://image.noelshack.com/fichiers/2014/52/1419801828-f.jpg
  4. Sailor Kenshin

    Vintage 120 Question

    A friend gave me a vintage 120 years ago, and I'm starting to use it more often. I do not know the era, possibly 1960s...but can the nib unit in these older 120 pens screw out (as with a TWSBI) in order to make cleaning easier? It doesn't seem to 'want' to unscrew, and I don't want to force it. Thanks!
  5. Hi friends, I purchased a VHS steel 25th anniversary edition second-hand earlier this year. I've had a persistent problem where the pen seems to sweat or bleed ink, NOT around the nib unit itself - I know that's the old problem, which I don't have at all on this pen. Rather, ink seeps out around the metal accent ring just above the grip section, where the opening of the cap rests when the pen is capped - the ring that has "HOMO SAPIENS" printed on it. In other words, ink has somehow gotten into the barrel around the converter. I've only ever filled the pen from the traveling inkwell that came with it, which is what's recommended, but I almost wonder if the upside-down filling from the inkwell is somehow causing a little backwash of ink down past the nib unit and around the converter...though I'd HOPE there'd be better sealing inside the barrel around the converter. I've tried, as best I can, to flush in and around the captured converter. I've unscrewed the nib unit to get in there. I once even accidentally removed the blind cap that operates the converter itself, and flushed around the converter with some clean water and took a startling amount of ink out. But there still seems to be some ink in there because every once in a while, my fingers stain where they rest right along that ring. Oftentimes in a color other than what's currently in the pen! SO: anybody else experienced this? Any tips or advice? Happy Thanksgiving! -Steve
  6. Hi there, I have a number of pens with clear silicone type sacs which initially makes it really easy to check the level of ink remaining (unlike the black sacs where I don't have clue!). However, I use a lot of Diamine inks: purple, imperial blue, sapphire blue, dragons blood, orange, and (yes I know) Onyx Black ! Unfortunately the normal process of soaking for several days hardly cleans the ink stains on the clear sacs. The situation gets progressively worse, as if dye is invading the silicone's deeper layers - thus it becomes much harder to see where the ink level is. Has anyone come across a decent method of cleaning this type of ink sac which doesn't involve chlorine bleach (which I don't like because of the residual stench)? Would be interesting to know. Have a nice day. Cheers, E. I
  7. Hello all, if this is the wrong place please feel free to move it to another section. I am after some advice following a conversation I had recently. I was talking to my dad (both dad and grandad are/were avid fountain pen advocates) about cleaning pens and mentioned distilled water. His response was that neither he nor his dad had ever used it or would consider paying money for something that came out of the tap/faucet! He agreed that normal tap water is also "evil" for cleaning pens so they would boil it and let it cool down... and he's never had an issue with any of his pens, some of which are as old as me. I am after different opinions and how people feel about this, bearing in mind that both my dad and grandad are/were old school and artists
  8. Assuming I am going to spill ink on my clothes, are there any inks or brands that have a better reputation for to washing out? I am wanting to be more careless in transporting and carrying a pen which I figure makes it a question of when rather than if I will get ink on my clothes. As such, buying based on the ability to remove it may be a good idea. I am thinking I should do an empirical test with the few inks I have, but they are mostly Noodler's.
  9. Hi, I recently received a Conway Stewart Dinkie 550 which I purchased online; it was described as needing a new sac. I don't know much about casein, but read this on the CS website: Firstly, if I can't apply heat to the pen, how am I going to unstick the barrel from the section, which appear to be shellacked (spelling?) together? I'll have to do this in order to fit the new sac. Secondly, how does one clean the section of a casein pen without dismantling the nib and feed? I had intended to flush it out with a bulb syringe - if it will fit, the pen is so tiny - but wonder if this will affect the casein. The nib is great, I've dip-tested it: it's flexy, which shocked me as I've never written with a flexy pen before. I may gently smooth the nib a little, I have lots of experience of doing this with very cheap pens, but this will be the first gold nib I've smoothed. I would like to turn this pen into a good everyday writer and any advice you can give me about servicing and caring for this pen will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Catherine
  10. Historian

    Cleaning A Twsbi Vac700

    I have a question about cleaning the Vac700. I don't want to disassemble it every time I change the ink in it, but I noticed that small droplets of water remain in the pen after I clean it with water. I tried to get rid off it, but it seems that it's nigh impossible to get all of the water out. My question is, is this ok? I mean it wouldn't dilute the new ink at all, we are only really talking about some small droplets. It just basically annoys me slightly.
  11. Hi FPNers! I need your help. The trim and end of the body opposite to the cap of my Waterman Carene FP became tainted with small inkblots. I tried to clean them with a humid smooth cloth, but did not work. Do you know how to clean them causing no harm to beautiful finish of the pen? I look forward to reading from you. Marcelo
  12. Hi everyone, I have many Parker pens, but I use the Sonnet and 75 as my everyday pen. Do I have to clean these two pens every time I use a different color/brand ink? (Quink Black to Quink Blue, Quink Black to Waterman Serenity Blue, etc.) If yes, do I have to have a major cleaning process OR can I just clean the converter and nothing else. Thank you in advance. -William S. Park
  13. So, I loaded up my fountain pen with Herbin's Lierre Sauvage. Everything was ok, until I opened the bottle today (2 days after I first opened it and loaded up the pen) and there was mould floating on top of the ink. Panic ensued, I got all the remaining ink out of my Lamy Safari and the converter. Rinsed both of them repeatedly, first with lukewarm water and when everything was clean I added a bit of washing up liquid to a glass of water, rinsed and shook the converter about a bit to get all the stuff out. Then rinsed with clean water again a number of times. My question is: was this enough? I couldn't see any mould inside the converter, so hoping that this is all ok now.
  14. I bought a A. G. Spalding fountain pen about 15 or 20 years ago. Never used it. Recently I became interested in improving my handwriting and bought some fountain pens. I found my brft250 model and tried to used without success. It was empty and I think that it had never been filled with ink before, but when I try to write with it, nothing happens. Its nib must be dirty. I would like to know if this model can have his nib removed for cleaning or I will damage the pen. I would appreciate any help. I tried do clean the nib with water but I failed.
  15. I'm considering buying a TWSBI vac700. Seeing as I'm mostly using ink samples for my writing, the ease and speed of cleaning ink out from my new pen in order to use new inks is an important consideration. I certainly understand that the vacuum filling system of the vac700 would allow one to cycle water through the barrel and feed quickly. However, wouldn't the fact that you can only get a partial fill of water by depressing the filling rod result in more inconvenience than help for cleaning it since you can't flush water through the whole body of the pen? What are peoples' experience with cleaning ink out of the vac700? Thank you for any help.
  16. Brontosaurus Pluto

    Cleaning A Platinum Pg-250 Pocket Pen

    Hello. I have a Platinum PG-250 pocket fountain pen. I love it but I am having a rediculus time getting it completely clean. I have flushed it multiple times and let the nib soak overnight. No matter how much I flush it there is still blue ink in there. The only thing I haven't done is put it in a sonic cleaner. None of my blue inks are hard to get out so I dont think it is the ink. Can you put a Platinum gold plated steel nib in a sonic cleaner?
  17. I have decided and an ink syringe would be worth having around. I am wondering what else are things that are other good things for someone new to pickup? Local shopping is somewhat limited so it helps to have things ahead of needing them or you end having to wait on shipping. I was looking around and found Goulet's set. Does anyone have experience with it? From what I saw in Repair forum, it sounded like it was better to get a set of brass sheets with different thicknesses. I am not convinced of a real need for flush when there are recipes out there. But overall the set makes sense to me.
  18. Hello, I am curious if anyone here on FPN has tried this Montblanc Pen Polish that is currently on Ebay... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pen-Polish-Montblanc-and-other-HighEnd-Pens-Resin-Celluloid-Metal-etc-/251298456450 It claims to offer a two-stage, non-abrasive polishing system that produces "Insanely high shine." Also protects pens from scratches. And each bottle has a serial number to prove that it has been quality checked. Any advice or input on this product is appreciated. Thank you.
  19. WestLothian

    Australian Statesman

    I was cleaning my Statesman when I noticed that the feed had wandered off centre compared to the nib. I decided to disassemble to realign this and give the pen a thorough cleaning at the same time. The feed is conveniently fitted with a screwdriver slot at the barrel end to help align this to the nib when it is tightened onto the threaded section. There were no signs of locking adhesive at the threads or the barrel, so I am assuming that this is not required and hand tightening and feed friction are sufficient to avoid any problems.
  20. peter57

    First Time Fill For A Pelikan M800

    Hi everybody: I'm expecting a green/black M800 tomorrow and I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts about what one should do before filling it for the first time. I've seen where some folks clean a new pen with water and perhaps a drop of dishwashing soap. Not sure if that's appropriate for a Pelikan, but if one has to...one has to...the exquisite anticipation of first putting nib to paper will, of course, persist until everything dries out..... Anyway, I would appreciate hearing anyone's "new pen/pre first fill" routine.
  21. The best way of cleaning a pen that has much debris of old ink especially on the writing unit is disassembling the pen and then using a ultrasound device ( like the ones used for cleaning medical instruments ). No problems with Pelikan, Conway Stewart, .... However these parts are sealed on Montblanc, impossible to disassemble. Question: is it possible to put the pen like that in the device without risking to damage certain parts, resulting in leaking or malfunctioning of the pen afterwards?





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