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  1. Got a beautiful Visconti set with several different nibs, plus glass nib dip pen: just put a cartridge into the nib unit, and it can't have been properly pushed on, as it's now stuck firmly in the barrel. Im hoping to get pliers or tweezers to remove....in UK, I have Amazon Prime, and hopefully can get something by tomorrow, but have no idea as to sizing for such things, so...... .....help! Alex
  2. Someone lended me a thin Pilot cartridge/converter pen for today. It's thin (exactly 10mm at the thickest point of the barrel) and short (~123.5 mm long, or 5.15 inches long). I can't find anything like it online, even when I search "pilot fountain pen white" on Google Images. I included some pictures too. I know this isn't the repair section, but for some reason the pen writes very dry and is quite scratchy. I included a picture of the nib where the tines seem to be misaligned. I'm using Noodler's X-Feather with this pen if it matters. My friend doesn't know what kind of pen it is either. He found it at a rummage sale.
  3. This is a shout-out to you Sailor red ink fans. I'm wondering if either Nagasawa Kobe #11 Ikuta Orange or #20 Motomachi Rouge is a match, or very, very close? Or perhaps the best match is Kingdom Note Nipponia Nippon? Or …? In my ink tests, FWIW, and to my eye, Sailor Jentle Red Cartridge ink's color is very close to Pilot iroshizuku fuyu-gaki. YMMV, and that's no problemo! Just please tell me which current Sailor-made bottled ink you think is closest to Sailor Jentle Red cartridge ink or, if you don't have the ability to compare to Jentle Red cartridge ink, to iroshizuku fuyu-gaki. It has a slight golden sheen that outlines each stroke. -- Constance
  4. Hi! This morning I was doing a routine of choosing empty cartridges to recycle/trash...and taking for mistake a parker cart. and my safari...it WORKED. The parker cartridge fits very well, without excessive pressure in the inserting. Same for the lamy cartridge on a vector. it was empty cartridge so don t know about sealing or leakages..but now I wonder: everywhere I read that lamy/parker are not cross-compatible...but is it true? what are the risks for "hybridizing"? Can i break the piercing nipple top of the section, or damage feeds? and what about my lamy converter...?
  5. berc

    A Vintage Parker?

    So, I was going through my old stuff and I found an old fountain pen (as I luck would have it, I did not find what I was looking for). At first sight it didn't catch my eye as it looked like an ordinary generic pen. Also it didn't have any numbering or engravings on itself (even the nib and the body were "engraving-free"). However, I did not look the clip closely enough. There are these triangle like engravings (sorry, I do not know a better way of describing the Parker logo; maybe arrow like engravings?; anyway, you will see for yourself) that remind me of the Parker logo. It is a cartridge operated fountain pen. So, fellow fountainpen users, I would like to ask you for your wisdom, and help me in identifying this pen and telling me truth: whether this pen is a legitimate Parker?
  6. Hi all! Bit of a dilemma. Being the budding fountain pen newbie that I am; this'll probably seem a bit sillly but; The end of a quink cartridge (the bit you pierce to allow ink flow) has seperated from the well of the cartridge and has lodged itself in my nib. Any ideas on how to remove it? Thanks in advance Regard, J
  7. Ink Stained Wretch

    Pilot Black In A Cartridge V. In A Bottle

    Does anyone have any experience with using Pilot Black ink from a cartridge and Pilot Black ink from a bottle? I mostly want to know if they are the same formulation or if the cartridge ink is different from the bottled Pilot Black ink. Thanks for any information on this.
  8. strawberry

    The Pura That Was None

    I discovered a hidden B&M store today. The personnel had absolutely no clue about the writing instruments they were selling. They declared goldplated M200 nibs as gold nibs, the bicolour 14c Lamy nibs as partly gold-plated and the rhodinized 14c nibs as steel nibs. They also knew nothing about the different filling mechanisms of the pens offered. So they told me that the modern Pelikan Pura fountain pens they had were all piston fillers, "because all more expensive Pelikan pens are piston fillers". Among the Pura fountain pens was another Pelikan with a modern design that strongly reminded me of the 2003 Pelikano. The handwritten Tag on it said "Pura" and it should cost the equivalent to 65 Dollars. I was given the pen to try it out and the lady behind the counter almost freaked out when I screwed off the barrelend to reveal the black plastic cartridge holder that was inside the pen. I needed to explain to her that this was not a piston filler and no harm done to it. I took a closer look at the rhodinized nib and saw an imprint on the side: 14c 585. So this was a gold nib. I tested it on some paper that I had brought along and explained why I wasn`t using the supersmooth testing paper they had in the shop. The nib of the pen was ugly as hell with the simple design it had, but it wrote smooth and had some springyness to it, too. Quite like the famous M200 steel nibs with a bit more softness. The line this medium nib made was an Oldschool-Pelikano medium like it used to be back in the 60s, 70s and 80s. The pen had a thick grip section and felt very comfortable in the hand while writing. The body was made from aluminium and very well machined. The barrel and grip section were made of one part and had grooves cut into them as a design feature and to prevent the pen from slipping. The barrelend and the cap had a matte, slightly brushed silvergrey finish and the metal clip and the ring at the cap opening had a champaign colour. On the cap top there was a black and white Pelikan logo, showing the bird with one chick. So this pen was a relatively new model. I bought it and got an aluminium "Pura" zipper case to transport the pen in. At home I looked it up at the Ruettinger website and found out that it is a Pelikan Epoch P361 "zirconia" fountain pen and no longer produced. On another website I found the tip to rip out the plastic cartridge holder with pliers. The cartridge or converter can then be inserted without the nasty holder around it, which is said to cause an inky mess over time and thus make this pen unreliable. For me, the Epoch 361 is the luxury version of the 2003 Pelikano. And without the cartridge holder inside this will be a bulletproof nononsense workhorse of a fountain pen for sure. And one that will last for at least decades. If it wasn`t made of aluminium I would try to convert this into an eyedropper. Any fans of the Epoch around here? What are your experiences with it? strawberry
  9. Hi, A supplier in Japan shipped me my Sailor Profit 21k fine rhodium with only its usual cartridges instead of adding in the purchased converter (which is now on its way). What type of ink is usually in these cartridges please - non-water resistant or a water resistant nano-type pigment like their blue-black? Their English wasn't too understandable to me when discussing the converter so I didn't want to ask them in case confusion occurred. I intend to use Iro inks once the converter arrives so didn't want any unusual gunking in the pen if the inks are incompatible and I'd missed cleaning a tiny bit of the cartridge ink out. It's a pen I've wanted for some time so don't want to mess it up. I usually only use water for cleaning, so if there is a home made pen flush that will do the job of cleaning out Sailor's nano ink I'd be keen to know which recipe here on FPN might be best please (I have it in a dedicated Pilot that is coming up for its first clean anyway). Thanks.
  10. Alexcat

    Mb Boheme....start Problems

    Recently got a Boheme; wondering if Im doing/not doing something properly. The cap flips up, cartridge goes in, twist to bring down nib.....but it is very difficult - nigh on impossible - to get to start at all, let alone consistently. Any words of wisdom? Alex
  11. Apologies if there's a list already around....Im looking for which fountain pens take the long universal cartridges, rather than just the short ones. Any suggestions very welcome. Alex
  12. I bought a 45 on ebay and ordered some Quink long cartridges. They aren't fitting. The ones I bought are on the top. Do I need the cartridge on the bottom? http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/Njg3WDEwMjY=/z/R2QAAOSwrklVG04T/$_57.JPGhttp://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzIyWDg4MQ==/z/OosAAOSwqu9Uz8Zx/$_57.JPG
  13. I have a few Kaweco Sports, which I usually fill by syringing ink into an empty short international cartridge. It works great for me except that I do find that the pen will go dry at times as the ink hangs up at the end of the cartridge, despite the presence of a ball agitator. So far I've used Monteverde and Kaweco cartridges for this purpose; aside from the Kaweco having an embossed logo, they're identical. My question is whether there is a standard international short cartridge with a agitator that works well, or some kind of mechanism that prevents hang-ups (like how Pilot cartridges have flutes down the insides),
  14. So I got some Monteverde cartridges recently and I noticed that they have a slight difference that other cartridges. They have a small little plastic piece at the bottom, as seen below on a red cartridge. If you take an unbent paper lip, you can push out this plastic piece and easily get the ball out, place it back in and fill up the cartridge and close up the plastic piece. I have not tried this yet, but it seems like it might work. If anyone uses this method, please let me know how it works out.
  15. Manalto

    Old Cartridges

    I have a question for those more knowledgeable about inks than I. I just got a nice Targa brushed stainless with a gold nib (seems to be a bold). With it came a maroon box of five Jet Black cartridges. (I describe the packaging to possibly estimate the age of the cartridges; it appears the new Sheaffer nib packaging is a hang card with the black-and-red logo.) For the most part, the pen is performing well, but at times it appears the nib gets starved. Could this be because the cartridges are old and partially evaporated, making the ink more viscous? Or is this typical of a broad inlaid nib? I read somewhere here on FPN that feeds in many pen modelss are all the same; that is, they're not calibrated to accommodate the different demands of an XF compared to a BB nib. I have a Sheaffer converter on the way. James
  16. A few months back I asked the forum what this mysterious pen was and it turned out to be a Parker 95, which is currently discontinued. I want to get more use out of that pen now but I really hate the suction... converter... thing. Is there a piston converter that goes with a 95? I know it's a model from two decades ago and maybe converters weren't a thing, so pen companies probably didn't consider that when designing their pens.
  17. Diver

    Rotring Art Pen

    Hi There! Following on from my (very) recent review of the CS Belliver Bracket Brown, I thought I would have a little fun and have a go at reviewing a much cheaper and much older pen from my collection pen, one that I have had in my possession for just a touch over 25 years now. Please please please do not take this review TOO seriously, I don't intend to try and get hordes of people going out to buy the pen, but I feel that after all these years, it needed a little review. I have found doing reviews are quite fun if not taken too seriously. Introducing the.... Rotring Art-Pen with 1.1 nib. Oh, where has everyone gone? :-) Purchase Experience 7/10 Trying to remember 25 years back IS a pain, but I remember the stationary shop, not the name. It had two assistants, both indifferent, possibly bored, who knows. I have marked the experience as 7 as I was not put off and nobody stopped me or moaned when I asked to open the box to look inside. Money changed hands, a whole £5 at the time. The extravagance eh? Opening the box 7/10 Having gone from the process of going to school, using any pen one can lay their hands on, pens in blister packs, cheap ballpoint pens and the one parker 25 that was saved slavishly for, as an adult, this came as a nice surprise. A tin box lined with card. Please note that this is NOT the original box, it is from a newer example of the pen (1.5 nib) but have snapped it for show and tell. Inside was a matt black, but very long almost attractive instrument along with a couple of unmarked cartridges. Anyhow, if it is in a box that is worth keeping, 7 is a good start. The pen itself (looks) 7/10 I wasn't too fussy about looks, I did think it was a little bland, but quite attractive in a quirky way compared to fountain pens of the time, but what upped the score was the fact it was quite slender, sleek and old fashioned (I thought it looked like an old fashioned dip pen). Black with a red ring and shiny stainless cap, matt black finish, white end cap. Yep. Not bad at all. The pen in the hand 6/10 Urgh. Too thin on the section, just that bit too thin for my liking. At the time, it was sort of “ok” but not being too experienced in these matters, trying to look back, there was not a lot better at that price point. The length, its light and being so is not off balance, but it just isn't really lighting any fires. The grip section has a series of ribs the section being quite lengthy so the finger position can move up and down for a more comfy writing position. Not perfect but it does the job. It does post, but it looks all wrong, I mean just silly. It also kills the balance dead. Don't do it. Taking the cap off: 7/10 As mentioned above, the grip section has an aha! Factor, but the nib is bland looking. Stamped steel plate, no breather, but shiny and I presumed made of stainless steel. It isn't ugly, it isn't stunning it is quite functional in appearance and it did look as if it would work. A £50 Parker of the time just was not anywhere in my sights, neither was £50 available to spend on a pen! Size: 7/10 Too thin for big fingers, too long to be taken seriously, there really is no need, even for an art pen to be so long. Consider this. If the fingers are huge, then the section is too small in diameter. Which means the length will not help any way shape or form. Or one can just ignore all of that, and do like I did at the time, rushed home, inked it and started writing and didn't give the appearance another thought. I had a new pen and I wanted to write a letter. Fill the pen! 10/10 Cartridge converter, small international cartridges, one in the business end, with one reversed and stored in the body. Brilliant idea, so simple. Never used the converter with it, despite getting one to try it, it just worked perfectly so left it alone. Totally fuss free and hasn't leaked in 25 years. Current ink in use: 10/10 Rotring black cartridges. Have tried others, all are fine, as a pen should be, fuss free. It doesn't seem bothered what diet of ink it is fed, it just lays down ink reliably, never remember it either skipping or flooding. Have only ever cleaned it or flushed it when changing inks and then only with water, other than that it just gets to stay inked. Paper compatibility: 10/10 Now we are getting interesting. This old, basic and inexpensive pen will write on anything except the shiny side of brown paper (did it just to try it). Copier paper, Moleskine, Rhodia, Oxford paper, it lays a line down on all of them. Overall writing experience: 8/10 During it's lifetime, I have always considered this to be a 10/10. However, in the last few years I have been totally spoilt by the introduction of new, higher end pens with various gorgeous nibs etc, so armed with this knowledge, I have to (probably quite unfairly) knock a couple of points off. Had I never had my first ever “posh pen” which was the MB Starwalker Mystery Black, it would have to have been a 10. If we were to then consider again the price point here and lined it up against what one can get for the same money now (writing experience nothing else) then it would better than anything currently out there. Forget the quirky looks, it writes a damned good line and writes on anything. Impressions after use: 10/10 With nostalgia, with reliability, with the fact it has never let me down, despite there being pens out there worth hundreds of pounds with gold nibs etc etc etc, this for me, and has been for a large number of years my go-to pen. It is no longer matte black, it has gone shiny with use. The nib is crying out for its first ever strip down and clean, but it is still shiny! The cap still click into place, the clutch still works, although a lot lighter these days. The nib has no sharpness associated with 1.1 italics, it is literally worn smooth on the corners. It has a nice sweet spot and is forgiving. The pen gets thrown into my work bag or dropped into my top drawer, not abused just laid wherever it may be needed. It is in my regular rotation alongside my new Conway Stewarts, my Lamy Safari etc etc. Epilogue (before I get lots of comments and questions) I bought my partner a new Rotring 1.1 and tried it out. The nib seemed to be of thinner material but it isn't to the naked eye. It seems scratchy at the corners which I never remember on mine. The plastic feels cheaper, the mouldings have a little edge to them, but they are not worn down after 25 years use. Overall it does feel a little cheaper but the price is still in the £15 - £20 region. Not cheap anymore but it is aimed at artists (I think). However. Opening my journal and starting slowly so as not to scare the poor thing. It laid down a line. A black, sharp line. On all the paper I tried. No stalling, no skipping... Welcome to the family “Junior”.
  18. Hi everyone! I've been lurking around FPN for a while now, and this is my first post! I wanted to share something interesting about the Quink Permanent Blue. I couldn't find any green Quink anywhere, so I tried calling Parker to see if they stocked it, or could point me to a retailer that did. They didn't and told me all they had was black and permanent blue. I had always wondered why permanent blue had "permanent" in its name when it is not waterproof at all, and fades fairly easily. So I asked them, and got an interesting answer. Apparently the "permanent" Quinks have metal incorporated into them that essentially gets embedded into the paper. When the ink fades, or is rendered illegible due to water or whatnot, you can get what was originally written recovered professionally. Did anybody know about this?!?! I've used Quink as my everyday writing ink for ages, and had no idea. I was mindblower. Is this a feature found in any other inks?? Very interesting, or at least IMHO.
  19. Mardi13

    Are Cartridge Pens Dissed?

    Are the cartridge versions of some of the older classic pens considered inferior? If so, why?
  20. Good evening, I spied this interesting looking vintage unit on the famous auction site last week and it arrived today. Based on the limited information I could find online prior to purchasing, the pen is a c/c, using the proprietary c/f cart or converter. The only markings on the pen are on the clip where it is stamped Waterman's, and on the barrel where a Made in Italy imprint lies. I understand the hood is not an integral part of the nib unit, as is the case with the famous P51, and although I have not attempted to remove the hood there does appear to be a significant gap between the nib and the hood. Despite the presumed lack of the large collector, this pen was chock full of ink, which after a day of soaking and a few ultrasonic cycles seems to be cleared. Now I just have to source a cf cart to refill. I know converters are available for around $20, so that may be a better choice. I'm hoping some of you Waterman experts can help me with additional information on this pen, I have yet to find one like it in my searches, specifically with the grip section. http://i.imgur.com/9Eg22SH.jpg?2 http://i.imgur.com/XOp2WNu.jpg?1
  21. I'm a self confessed piston snob! Don't mind power fillers, or any other filling system so long as it's not a c/c! That was until I recently acquired two new Japanese pens, both of which are c/c are work great. Are we really being fair with our snobbery against the humble cartridge converter?
  22. *Note - sorry if this should be in a different sub-forum. Mods, please feel free to move it if you feel necessary. :-) I’m pretty much ready to pull the trigger on an Al Sport, so I decided to do a few tests this weekend to see just how much writing I can get out of a standard international cartridge. And, since I’m such a generous person, I figured I would share my results with anyone else who might be curious. For my first data point I grabbed a no-name black cartridge that I have and stuck it in my only pen that will take standard internationals (from now on, I’m going to use S.I.C. = standard international cartridge), my Nemosine Singularity with a Goulet 1.5 mm stub. I started making lines of loops until I used up all the ink. This test was done on my standard for ink reviews - Staples 24 lb bright white inkjet paper. I know the picture above might be hard to decipher with so many angles, but I got exactly 7.5 pages of loops out of the cartridge (1 page = 1 side of a piece of paper). I would like to have stopped there, but too many years to training in the scientific process does not allow me to make claims based on a single trial. If I had enough time and patience I would run through a myriad of a combinations of ink and paper, but I have other things to do, so I tried one further run. This time I refilled the same cart with Pelikan Edelstein Aventurine, popped it back into the pen, and put the nib to some A4 Miquelruis notebook paper. Instead of just doing loops, I wanted to do some writing more true to real life. I chose one of my favorite novels and began transcribing it, which took quite a bit longer than I expected. This time the ink ran out just at the bottom of page 9. I also found that the ink flow was much wetter and more consistent than I usually get using the converter with this pen, which was a nice change. Based on the limited statistics of my N=2 experiment, I would estimate that a S.I.C. will write for 7-10 pages. Obviously, this will vary depending on how much pressure you write with, your nib size, the paper absorbency, if you are drawing as well as writing, etc. I’m impressed and I would say that this has convinced me that I could use a pen that takes only S.I.C.’s and have it not be too cumbersome to use in my daily life. Especially since refilling carts is not that hard, and I’m going to experiment today with a way to reseal them so that I can have an extra with me in any color I want.
  23. mikeschu

    Another "id This Sheaffer" Thread

    I found this amongst an eBay lot, and decided to clean it up to use it. It puts down a nice fine/medium line. It could be anything from a Skripset to an Imperial, so I wanted to see what people thought this pen actually is. I'm leaning towards a Skripset, because the cartridge is a very tight fit in the barrel and it doesn't look like a Sheaffer converter would fit (if they made one for this pen). Also - I assume this Triumph nib should not be straightened out? It writes very smooth for it being a very firm nib. Thanks in advance.
  24. Hello, I am seriously thinking of adding a Kaweco Sport xf to my stash of pens, and I had a concern about the fact that you can only use a cartridge with it (the little bladder they sell seems no improvement to me). I have recently discovered the joys of using a converter in my various pens (piston/slider, not the bladder type), and found that the usual problems of skipping, ink drying out, or the ink coming out too fast at times, and otherwise inconsistent performance when half full or less, are greatly reduced, seem to be mostly a thing of the past. My question is whether the Kaweco Sport suffers from the same cartridge issues as other brands, as described above, I do realize there is some variation in how bad it can get from pen to pen. Even the bladders on my Hero 329 and Pilot 78g don't seem to hold a candle to what happens when you can push the extra air out of the pen with a converter (if I could, I would replace the bladder on my Hero 329 pens with a converter, in all 4 of them!). Hopefully my question is not as clear as mud. Any and all personal opinions and observations appreciated.
  25. I am a bit confused. Are these the same size cartridges or is it they messed up with words? - One says "International Size" AND athe other one only says "Standard". No International anywhere... One is G302BK, the other G306BK I would very much appreciate information so I can stock on cartridges until I get a fine fountain pen that I can use with a converter. Is there a place where the length of the different sizes of cartridges is specified? I have seen lots of videos on how to use cartridges and converters, but I cannot find a single video where I could see someone measuring cartridges or explain the differences. I am solely interested on the "standard sizes", not proprietary cartidges. Once I can understand the sizes I can place an order. Thank you. I know I will have some answers. Thanks in advance!

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