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Showing results for tags 'cap'.
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Can anyone point me in the direction of where(in the UK, and online)Imcan buy a Psrker 51 cap? Thanks Alex
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Okay... I have somehow acquired a flat top black Sheaffer pen cap, but I've never had the pen. Can anyone tell me what is supposed to sit under this cap, please? And, how difficult is finding a pen? The ball on the clip is flat. There is a slight hump on the clip. Flat top and a single gold band.
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Hello all. I recently purchased a sheaffer pen that has a lifetime nib but I can't seem to identify it. I think someone may have put the wrong cap on the pen. The cap looks like a Sheaffer Cadet cap. Here's a link to the Sheaffer Cadet: http://penhero.com/PenGallery/Sheaffer/SheafferTipDip.htm. I got the pen very cheap and it is in good shape I have yet to clean the pen. Any help you could provide in identifying the pen would be great. I posted pictures of the barrel imprint as well as the nib and cap. Thanks in advance. Davide http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah48/Davide_Borrelli/Sheaffer_03_zpsfemwkiea.jpeghttp://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah48/Davide_Borrelli/Sheaffer_04_zpsu2iejmzn.jpeghttp://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah48/Davide_Borrelli/Sheaffer_06_zpsi8oua6l4.jpeg
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Are there any models which have "Mont Blanc" written(as in engraved) along the side of the cap? Alex
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I got a new(to me) Omas yesterday, and having spent ages fiddling about trying to figure it out( explanation later) I have mislaid(telling myself it's not lost. Im sure it isn't....it's just so we here in my immediate area, ie in the guddle round the couch...yep, looked under couch. No joy) What can I use as a temporary cap till I (hopefully)find it? As to the difficulties, I'll explain in a bit..... Alex, capless in the land of frustration.....
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Hi All! Do you prefer a cap that screws or a cap that clicks ? Can you motivate your preference ? Do you know any other way to hold the cap in place on the body ? H-G
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I got this.....it's a tiny Esterbrook dip pen, with an e tea large dip nib(photos show it as it arrived....have as yet done nothing to it) On the nib : 314 R. Esterbrook relief( Im assuming "relief", as the 'r' is under the barrel) Altogether, capped around 6" I love how it has a cap, and plan to use it as a test pen, when Im trying to choose an ink. It's just a very pretty little thing, and I'd love to know more about it....anyone got any information? Also any advice on care, cleaning, and if/where such replacement nibs are available.... I hope it's ok to post in more than one place - wasnt sure where this should go. Mods. please give me a gentle ticking off if I shouldn't have done it Alex
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When writing (with a regular size FP), do you post your cap ? H-G
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I was wondering if a plastic seal in the cap is essential in the design of an aluminum FP. Is it to protect the nib from drying or to prevent a chemical reaction between the ink and the aluminum or both ? If the cap is not supplied with the nib unit, do you have suggestions where to get then ? H-G
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I hv a Waterman Graduate 3000 from the late 90's. (Attached photo.) Hardly an heirloom, but the pen is of enormous sentimental value to me. Problem: the cap no longer "clicks" when I place it on the pen, and it will not stay on. If anyone has any guidance or suggestions, I wd v much welcome them. MAEW
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Hello, I'm restoring a standard-sized Skyline (silver moire color) and need a black derby to complete the cap. Does anybody have one to sell me? (To be clear: I don't need the whole cap, just the mushroom-shaped plastic derby portion of the cap. It needs to be black.) Thanks! Richard
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Hi folks, I'm trying to restore a green moire Eversharp Skyline pen. The problem is that the cap doesn't screw securely onto the barrel. I've tried screwing the cap on to several other Skyline barrel-section assemblies, and it screws on fine. I've also tried screwing the cap onto its own barrel without the section and it screws on fine. It only doesn't screw on fine to this particular barrel with a section installed. So, I believe I need to take apart the cap and shorten the length of inner cap. Ordinarily, Skyline caps are dead-simple to take apart. This one, however, is proving a Right Little (bleep). I've tried unscrewing it as I do normally with Skylines. Failed. I soaked it in an ammonia-water ultrasound bath. Failed. I've heated it with my heat gun. Failed. I've tried ultrasounding it in the bath for ten minutes and then heat-gunning it, and failed. I'd be grateful for any suggestions. Other than the cap not screwing on, it's a lovely pen. Thanks, Richard
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I have been noticed condensation in the cap of my fountain pen. It is a monteverde artista crystal. I am assuming it is because it is cold out and walking in and out is causing parts of the pen to be colder and warmer and condensing the water inside the cap or the grip section gets hot and collects moisture from my hands and expels it to be later condensed in the cap. Sorry if that did not make any sense. I am not too certain on either of those things though so if you have any ideas I would love to hear. What I am wondering is do any of you know how to avoid this problem? It is sort of annoying to me but I can live with it. Thanks for the help
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Howdy, I got a Lamy 2000 a few months ago, and I absolutely love this pen. Unfortunately, I like to play with the cap, and have been turning the finial at the top of the cap back and forth in my free time. This is a no-no, as it strips the plastic inner-cap. Now the very top of the cap won't screw all the way in and the clip isn't held in place. Does anyone know where I can purchase a new cap? Tom
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I received my Base "Uni" yesterday. But there are two distinct things I want to ask. First, the barrel screws on the section with a click and then it has a "play" or "free movement" of approximately 1 mm i.e. the barrel and section can be rotated against each other to 1mm which very annoying while writing becuse they feel to be moving. Second, the same is with the cap and the pen also. After capping, the cap and the pen rotates freely to some 1 to 1.5 cm either ways, to the right or to the left. Does Schneider Base sport these features or mine is a mis aligned/ faulty one?
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Does anyone know what this Blue 8 Logo means on this Waterman Rollerball pen cap?
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Hi, I'm new to the forum. I recently came across an old Mont Blanc my father had and when I tried to take the cap off, the screw part broke off. By screw part I mean the nib section that you screw on and off the body when changing cartridges or ink via a converter. I took some pics and was wondering if anyone here could tell me if it can be repaired or if I've permanently damaged the pen.. Thanks!
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It was in 1991 that i found a parker 51 aeromatic filler pen wid a book seller in a remote town of southern district lakki marwat of the kpk province of pakistan.the book seller said it belonged to his father..i gave a good cleaning to the pen...however ,i came to know that the ink sac of the pen was punctured because nobody bothered to clean the sac before putting it into a drawer.the town was near to Bannu city.i heared someone was there who could repair the pen.well, i got to that so-called repairman but what he did was breaking the metal barrel/sac guard with black plastic end. Later though, i was able to find another filler,alongwith sac,for my pen but it was not like the earlier one..the inscripyion on this filler read "press ribbed bar 4 times " while the same on the original read "...6 times".the instruction for use of ink also differed.also the new filler was of rouded end n lacked the black plastic end. The cap was like those of earlier vacumatic versions n so was the clip.it is 14 k gold filled.the lines pattern on the cap is 5 lines convrerging into one at the top.there are two rounded holes on the nib...one small and tte other relativly big alongwith a squre cut at the top.it is also inscribed 14 k gold and made in usa. the date code is something like this or better say i could read it like this without the magnifying glass " T MAM 1"..the cap jule jewl of the cap is also missing. the pen is excellent writer...and a beauty to look at. I wonder if such cap , clip were used on the aeromatic 51?reviews on the pen woud b much appreciated.forgot to mention the pen clour is forest green. Here are some pictures of the pen i wonder if such cap, klip .
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Hey all, Is it possible to repair a clip that has 'brassing' on it? Is it possible to get it plated in gold or anything? And; Can you remove micro-scratches from resin pen barrels and caps? Thanks, Tom.
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Hello. We have recently inherited a couple of Mont Blanc pens, one of which is a Nobless Oblige. It was in a filthy state, but I've cleaned it up and it now writes beautifully. But... The cap does not close. I've looked down the inside of the cap, and there doesn't seem to be anything out of place or jammed in there. I suppose it's possible that the Nobless Oblige cap is not original to the pen and that the barrel and nib are another model. In fact, if I were seeing this 'in the wild' that would be my assumption, as the gold rim at the back of the section seems to be slightly too wide. But knowing the former owner, I think that is unlikely. So I'm stumped. Any ideas? I'm including some pictures below. The first is a close-up of the 'most closed' position - note the gap. The final picture shows the pen as a whole. The top of the cap has a slightly rounded MB white star; the bottom of the pen is flat black. Sorry, no photos of the inside of the cap - I don't have the equipment for a picture like that. Thanks in advance for your help.
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Very simple question: do you prefer a screw or snap-on cap, or is it something you don't care about? Personally, I've discovered that I was gravitating toward screw caps, and now I'm firmly in that camp, so much so that I'm not going to buy a pen with a snap-on cap again. I feel I have more control over uncapping the pen when unscrewing as opposed to pulling the cap off. The Sonnet I recently received will be exchanged because of drying out (I still find it impossible to believe that Parker STILL hasn't fixed that!), and it won't be replaced by a pen with a snap-on cap. It will probably be replaced by a Sailor ProGear. So... screw, snap, or don't care?
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Hi Everyone - on the advice of a fellow FPN'er, I have moved my question to the "repairs" section - can anyone help? Hi All, Hope everyone is doing well! New to FPN and pen collecting - what a great hobby! I need some help and was hoping y'all could assist. I have started getting into repairing my vintage pens (been picking up cheapies here and there) and am having trouble finding parts. Currently I am looking for replacement parts such as: -- Conklin Crescent Mark 50 cap -- Waterman #2 feed/section from a 14k solid gold Edward Todd ringtop -- Parker Lady Duofold "big red" ringtop cap -- Waterman 52 BCHR barrel and cap -- Waterman Thorobred red and green veined cap -- Parker Vacumatic major cap, jeweled, golden I have searched and searched the internet and the "bay" but it seems likes these parts are kept by folks who are collectors/sellers. Anyone have any idea of how I can find the missing parts to my pens? Any feedback is greatly appreciated - it has been a frustrating month or so of constantly searching without any luck . Best, Champagne-N-Beer
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Vintage Pen Parts - How To Find?
Champagne-N-Beer posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
Hi All, Hope everyone is doing well! New to FPN and pen collecting - what a great hobby! I need some help and was hoping y'all could assist. I have started getting into repairing my vintage pens (been picking up cheapies here and there) and am having trouble finding parts. Currently I am looking for replacement parts such as: -- Conklin Crescent Mark 50 cap -- Waterman #2 feed/section from a 14k solid gold Edward Todd ringtop -- Parker Lady Duofold "big red" ringtop cap -- Waterman 52 BCHR barrel and cap -- Waterman Thorobred red and green veined cap -- Parker Vacumatic major cap, jeweled, golden I have searched and searched the internet and the "bay" but it seems likes these parts are kept by folks who are collectors/sellers. Anyone have any idea of how I can find the missing parts to my pens? Any feedback is greatly appreciated - it has been a frustrating month or so of constantly searching without any luck . Best, Champagne-N-Beer -
Hi. I am a newbie (not to fountain pens, but to fp blogs) and this is my first post, so be gentle with me. Hopefully, the answer to my question is not an obvious one that will bring forth a chorus of “Der!”. One of the pens in my collection (list below) - the Conway Stewart Winston - has a slight issue in that, when I screw on the cap, the thread seems just a little stiff and slightly more pressure is needed to rotate the cap. It is not that there is any significant resistance, or any risk of damage, it is just that all my other pens can be capped with a smooth motion. I have previously owned a couple of modern Conway Stewarts and they both had smoothly operating cap threads. Is there anything that I can use to lightly lubricate the thread to ease the process without damaging the resin from which the pen is made? Thanks in advance for your help! FP Collection I am a freelance company secretary (known as a corporate secretary in the US, I believe) and have a portfolio of clients for whom I minute board meetings. I always use fountain pens to do so (before producing the minutes in MSWord) and all of my pens (except the Conway Stewart, which is too large) are regularly used for this purpose. So I am a constant fp user with a large handwritten output. · Conway Stewart Winston : Classic Claret · Montblanc Meisterstuck 146 · Pelikan Souveran M800 : Black (TWO) · Pelikan Souveran M800 : Green · Onoto Dickens Collection : Chuzzlewit · Onoto Magna : Havana Brown · Pilot Custom 823 : Black Demonstrator · Parker Duofold Centennial : Jasper Red
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One of my Ebay wins. Sheaffer Balance, Carmine Red. somewhere around 1939 to the end of the Balance line. After soaking the cap today there was what I assume to be some extremely stubborn ink on the gold cap band. After polishing a bit to get this ink off I noticed a very faint version of what you see highlighted in the picture but it was on the other side of the cap. Is what I noticed under where the ink was but is now gone some matching detail that I have removed that is now only left on one side or is this tarnish that just ended up making it appear that perhaps there was a design there?
