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Showing results for tags 'cap'.
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I feel like I am simply failing at Google with this, but are there capped dip pen holders like the Tachikawa T-40 but with the usual metal petaled insert instead of the plastic/rubber rings? Conversely, is there a way to convert a Tachikawa to that type of metal nib holder insert (or purchase one, since I lack skills)? Is there a clever way to shim a nib into this holder, perhaps, as a temporary measure? My issue is that I am taking a calligraphy class which has provided me with a nib that I was hoping to fit into a capped Tachikawa for easier transport (I like how the cap protects the nib better than me just wrapping a paper towel from the bathroom around it to keep the ink from getting all over me and my stuff). The nib (a Brause No.180 2 1/2mm broad?) falls right out, so I am not sure what the quickest solution would be. I am hesitant to do anything to the nib itself, and while I could try to purchase a different nib, I would like to stick with what was provided while in the class and also have no guarantee this wouldnt occur with any other nib I purchase that isnt a comic G (which seems to be all I can find in terms of what people are putting into this holder successfully, aside from an occasional maru/crow nib). Comic G wont really work for an italics class :/ Any suggestions or links to existing products that I am failing to find on Google are appreciated, and I apologize if this has already been asked. I didnt see another topic and this seemed like the most appropriate forum, but my search capabilities are admittedly poor
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I just pulled out my Deutsche Telekom CP1 that has been sitting in a draw since March. It was inked with an old Lamy cartridge filled with Diamine Bilberry. Expecting it to contain nothing but purple ink dust by now I tried writing with it. It worked the first time - not even a hard start nor shake nor moistening of the nib was required. It wrote as if it were freshly filled. I checked the cartridge - about 5-10% ink evaporation in 7 months. Now that is a cap seal!
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Hello Friends and Pen Enthusiasts, I plan to manufacture "Luxury HandMade Fountain Pens". I want your suggestions with reference to the following:- 1. Which Material would you suggest I should use? a.) ebonite b.) teak wood c.) resin d.) any other then please suggest. 2. Which NIB is the best in the world. ? a.) Schmidt b.) Bock c.) Jowo d.) any other then please suggest. 3. Which material nib is the best? a.) Steel b.) Gold c.) any other then please suggest. 4. Which is the best ink feeding system in the world? 5. What kind of material should be used for the Clip ? -- a.) Brass b.) any other then please suggest. I sincerely await your inputs or suggestions of any or all of the above points. Incase you believe that I may have missed something crucial or I need to be aware of then please feel free to let me know. In the event you want to suggest something which is different then my thought process mentioned above then too please feel free to share your thoughts. Though I am at an advanced level of conceptualisation, my intent is to create a "TRUE LUXURY PEN" which can be handed down from generations to generations and is extremely high on quality. All Suggestions are welcome. Thanks, Vikas -
Hi, I was tinkering with a cap and needed a quick tool to grab the inner cap and hold it in place while turning the tassie. The junk box is an endless source of inspiration for me, and this time was no different. Basically, I needed something that could be expanded into a hole and then turned (or held in place while turning the hole), and a wall anchor immediately called out to me. The anchor was too short, of course, but that's what I needed: some semi-rigid material that I could expand at will. Next stop, the kitchen. Chopsticks! I carved one so that it could fit inside the cap, but reverse-tappered it, so the end would be thicker than the rest of the stem. And then another piece that I'd use to have the entire contraption push outwards once in the cap. In order to secure the grip, once the thin piece is inserted, it needs to be hammered-in (a few taps with the edge of a metal ruler was all it took). If you have to do this in a pinch, like I did, make sure that the thin piece is long enough to protrude from the cap or removing it will be a lot of fun (don't ask how I know this). To remove it, just pull the thin piece with pliers or grab it with the edge of a sharp knife. Have fun... alex
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I have a Lamy 2000 black fountain pen. When I open it to use, putting the cap on the top, it does not seem to hold tight. It's almost as though it's a bit airtight so the cap fits tight and so I can't turn the pen upside down. I'm going to be in Wilton, CT next week and I think the office there is closed. There was a sign when I was there 2 months ago!
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Hey all, I bought an M200, and was poking around what was left of my searches online. I found a barrel with working piston on eBay for an M150 ($35). Now I know the nibs can be found in loads of places probably for another $30. But, I didn't even think about the cap. Would it be difficult to find a cap for a Pelikan M150, or is it compatible with the caps for other Pelikans? Does it become financially unreasonable to get the 3 pieces separately? I thought it'd be a nice project to add to over time.
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Hello, I need a cap for a Waterman Patrician (if possible in BHR, but also may be in Celluloid). I would also buy an pen for restauration, so I can use the cap to complete my pen. Please make an offer! Hansjürgen
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Fountain Pen Doesn't Write For A While After A While Of Not Using
9a3eedi posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
I have a Waterman Expert II that I have been using for the past 5 years. It is an old pen (if I understand correctly, it's made in the late 90s) that has been lying around the house for a while that I've found 5 years ago and started using to write notes during work. I've noticed for a while now that whenever I don't use the pen for a while (say for example a week or two), then try to use it, it would not write until after a bit of trying, like it was dry. At first I felt this was a normal thing about fountain pens (as it was the only fountain pen I had for a while), but then I realized that I haven't had this problem with other (newer) fountain pens that I've purchased recently. I'm trying to figure out why this happens and what I can do to solve it. I suspected it was the nib. It was bent badly at some point (not sure how, probably an accidental drop, or a malicious colleague using my pen while I wasn't looking) so I had it replaced. However, even with the new nib, it still has the same issue. The cap of the pen also doesn't close as well as it used to. It used to snap. Nowadays, it closes, but there's no "click" or snap. It feels loose, but it does look like it closes properly to me. I tried to give it to a shop to repair it, but they said that they couldn't find a replacement part for the cap as it's an old pen. I'm thinking this is likely the reason, but I'm not sure. Perhaps it's the way I'm cleaning it? I only rinse it with water every once in a while, no ammonia. I use the same ink all the time (Noodler's Dark Matter). Could the cap be the reason? If it is, and since I can't replace the cap, should I just "retire" the pen, and use another one as my daily? When I don't use the pen, I keep the pen stored upright (nib pointing upwards) as is recommended by others in this forum. -
Dear distinguished gentlemen, any help on this topic would be highly appreciated. I am deeply and profoundly in love with the modern Duofold, Centennials early MK1 models form the '80. Somehow, I never got especially attached to the later modern versions of the Duofold despite minimal design differences. I am referring to the ones with the slightly curved cap finial, and somewhat shorter finial on the barrel. From the information I gathered on the net, both girth and length of the two versions seem to be the same. But is it exactly so? In other words, are the bodies and caps on these two versions identical in size, compatible and interchangeable? Perhaps somebody even has both versions of the Centennial line and may verify this empirically? Finally, I would want to kindly ask you for understanding and offer my excuses in advance if the topic has been discussed already. I may have used the wrong terms in my search and missed it... Thanks in advance!
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Hi. I am looking to replace a damaged cap on my Waterman Expert. I have looked in all of the likely places without success. Can anyone help please? Many thanks.
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I've started browsing some of the antique shops I found here in Budapest. I found a red Parker 51 with silver cap. Then I found two Parker 51s in a different shop, both with gold filled cap, black color. I noticed both have different looking endings on both sides. I could guess they are from somewhat different times, right? Also found a red Parker, I don't know what type it is. It has 585 on the nib.
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Hello fellow Lamy fans on FPN! I am a long time Lamy user and a diehard fan. I just have a question for you about one of the ways your Lamys may wear and tear over time (pens with wear listed in brackets). Between my Logos (brushed and stainless steel), Al-Stars, Lxs, and Studios (black) I have noticed that within around 18-24 months of use, the clip rubs a fine line just underneath its point of contact with the cap with a varying degree of aesthetic wear. On the Logos regardless of style it rubs a fine clear line (way more noticeable on the brushed one making that one look almost like the matte one), on the Al-Stars and Lxs, the clip rubs to faint lines just underneath it fading the colour slightly and finally the black studio (and oddly only that one), has the black layer chipped off in that are revealing the clear metal underneath. Just wondering if anyone else has borne witness to this phenomenon on their pens as well and if it is similar or different from what I am experiencing!
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I'm really enjoying my new Wing Sung 618, but the finial keeps unscrewing from the top of the cap. It seems like the finial is connected to the plastic inner cap. When the cap is screwed all the way on, the inner cap sort of grips the pen, so when you unscrew the cap, the inner cap and the finial turn a bit. Is anyone else having this problem? Thoughts on how to fix it?
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Hi, I have a Parkette Zephyr and I have taken it apart to replace the perished ink sac. The problem I have is that the cap no longer screws back onto the barrel with the section in place. If I remove the barrel and just screw it into the cap, it screws on tightly. If I add the section / nib back into the barrel, the cap threads only just meet the barrel threads and with the slightest of pressure will jump off the threads. It's something close to 1/8th of a turn and then then it jumps. The section is pushed as far in as it will go so that the barrel sits against the section and there is no gap between the two. There is a tube like unit inside the cap that creates a 'step' and this stops the section from going any further into the cap. I am not sure what it was like before I started the ink sac replacement, but I do not recall the cap coming off so easily. Any ideas of what I may have done or how I can fix it? Thank you for your help, ice70
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Hello, I recently bought a nice enough Esterbrook J pen body with an intact bottom jewel and a 1554 nib in decent shape. Only trouble is, this pen had no cap. I've been looking on eBay and Etsy for folks that have a cap to sell with no luck. FPN looked like a great place to advertise for said cap, but I'm not allowed to post in classifieds until I'm a Gold Member. So, I'm asking here if anyone has a spare parts cap that they are willing to sell at a fair price. If push comes to shove, I am willing to buy a cap that doesn't match color-wise and just call it a Frankenpen! I just want to have a complete pen in hand some day. I had success with putting a new sac in an Esterbrook desk pen, so with that under my belt, I wanted to also gain experience by putting a new sac in this pen. However, a pen without a cap... Thank you FPN members for any help you can give me.
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I finally got my 51(yay!) However, the pen was damaged during transist and there was a deep scratch on barrel which I removed using 1500 grit wet sand paper (read from a forum here) and now I have to remove microscratches from barrel and small scratch|es on cap.Can simichrome be used? And from where can I find replacements (s.s or lustraloy) caps? Thanks
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Hello all, I recently acquired a wonderful Parker Duofold International with a personalized cap as shown below. This was disclosed in the listing, so I new this was something I would have to address. In reading previous posts, mostly dealing with lost medallions, I understand that the top portion of the cap is not easily removable. Does anyone have more recent experience with replacing such a part, or with obtaining a medallion to adhere over it? There are a few listings on ebay, but all are military or college branded. I'm hoping to find some alternatives, or a source to replace the part. Thank you in advance. Gump Photo Link: http://imgur.com/a/pE8QH Apologies for not embedding, I was unable to attached the file nor embed using the traditional tags.
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I know its probably not worth it since its such a cheap pen haha, however I live in the UK and it can take weeks for another one to arrive of amazon. I was wondering if is anything I can do about the cap being broken so much that the pen might as well not have a cap, so that I can still use it for a few weeks as its a pen I bring and use everywhere?
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I have used this Cross Affinity Opalescent Black Fountain Pen for few years. One day, I unscrewed the cap and it cracked into several parts! I swear i never drop this pen as you can check the body of the pen is still shiny and fresh. I love this pen but it is not a durable pen. I am really disappointed. This pen is my birthday present from my father and i want to fix it. Does anyone know how to fix it under cheap cost or where can i buy a new cap?
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Hey guys. Just joined. I had my lamy lx in my pocket today and i bumped into a couch causing the clip to somewhat pop out on the left side of the clip. It is loose and doesn't clip now. For the past few hours i've been breaking my hand trying to do what people suggest and both stick a pencil in the cap and push it hard, and also the same but unscrew the finial screw with a coin. Neither have worked. The cap pulls out just a bit and scewing does nothing much. It is metal so idk if it's different than other lamy's. Does anyone know what i can do, or how i can replace it if needed? Thanks guys
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Hi everyone, I picked up this gold-filled Parker 51 cap with a blue diamond and a honey jewel on a Parker 51 navy grey aerometric that needs work (so clearly the wrong cap as I was under the impression these were only on the early vacs?) - cap reads '1/10 16k Gold Filled Made in USA'. It has the four parallel lines and the spacing. I know it needs a bit of a clean, but other than that, it's in good condition. The jewel is slightly darker in reality, the pic makes it look a little lighter. The pen itself has a nib which just reads 14 KR, and the barrel and hood are in good condition, but inside it needs everything re-done. It has the '6 times' inscription on the chrome. I'll try and have it repaired and find a more suitable cap for it! I just wanted to ask when this gold cap dates from (I read all the information online but got very confused about 16k and the blue diamond honey jewel combo!), and what pen I should now be tracking down (I know a vac, but which time period?) to go with it ideally in your opinions? Are the honey jewels rare? I remember reading somewhere they were, but have no idea as very new to this. Can the cap be cleaned with a baking soda solution? Hugely appreciate any help. Thanks!
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I have a fairly dented Parker 51 cap that I'd like to take the inner cap and innards out for use with an Ariel Kullock fantasy cap. Mine has a metallic clutch ring with oval shapes. I know that there is a special tool for its removal, but it is expensive and not a worthwhile purchase for me. So I came up with an idea, inspired by my watchmaking caseback removal experiences. The plan: supergluing the clutch ring to some kind of a bolt. Then I'd pull the bolt from the cap to remove the clutch ring, and then dissolve them apart with a solvent that will only dissolve the superglue. Does anyone here think this will work? I'm trying to see what might be an obstacle, but if the only thing the special tool does it to grip the ring, I'm thinking the superglue will do the same. Would appreciate any input, thanks.
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There is about 1mm of wiggle room when I tug on the cap. What's odd is I don't see anything resembling a fingered or pronged clutch at all. This is a Parker 75 Insignia. Were those different parhaps?
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Remove Cap Liner On Faber-Castell Ambition, Maybe Disassemble Clip Spring For Cleaning.
jbeales posted a topic in Repair Q&A
I took my Faber-Castell Ambition on an airplane, and despite the Faber-Castell website stating "You do not need to worry about traveling by air with Faber-Castell fountain pens." it leaked a bunch of ink. Part 1: Cap liner The ink has gotten itself in between the metal cap and the plastic cap liner, and, I believe, into the spring mechanism at the end of the cap. If it's possible to do non-destructively, I'd like to remove the cap liner and clean the interior of the cap. Google's not turning up any tricks, and I haven't figured out how to pull it out myself. Does anyone know if there's a way to get the cap liner out, clean it, and put it back? Part 2: Clip spring mechanism. Ink is leaking around the clip, (which is sprung), and through the end of the cap. Is it possible to remove the spring mechanism without destroying it so I can get it cleaned up? I can't see any way to make it happen, especially with the cap liner still in the cap, but it was put together, so there must be a way to take it apart! Thanks! - John -
Greetings, I've come upon a lovely and brassing-free full cone cap overlay...but alas is missing the nib and feed. I've positively identified the nib I'm hunting for as an Aiken Lambert #1. If I find the nib, I can probably fabricate a feed by turning down one I have ... Let me know if you might have one kicking around in a parts drawer! Cheers, Morgan
