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  1. Hi. I am a newbie (not to fountain pens, but to fp blogs) and this is my first post, so be gentle with me. Hopefully, the answer to my question is not an obvious one that will bring forth a chorus of “Der!”. One of the pens in my collection (list below) - the Conway Stewart Winston - has a slight issue in that, when I screw on the cap, the thread seems just a little stiff and slightly more pressure is needed to rotate the cap. It is not that there is any significant resistance, or any risk of damage, it is just that all my other pens can be capped with a smooth motion. I have previously owned a couple of modern Conway Stewarts and they both had smoothly operating cap threads. Is there anything that I can use to lightly lubricate the thread to ease the process without damaging the resin from which the pen is made? Thanks in advance for your help! FP Collection I am a freelance company secretary (known as a corporate secretary in the US, I believe) and have a portfolio of clients for whom I minute board meetings. I always use fountain pens to do so (before producing the minutes in MSWord) and all of my pens (except the Conway Stewart, which is too large) are regularly used for this purpose. So I am a constant fp user with a large handwritten output. · Conway Stewart Winston : Classic Claret · Montblanc Meisterstuck 146 · Pelikan Souveran M800 : Black (TWO) · Pelikan Souveran M800 : Green · Onoto Dickens Collection : Chuzzlewit · Onoto Magna : Havana Brown · Pilot Custom 823 : Black Demonstrator · Parker Duofold Centennial : Jasper Red
  2. One of my Ebay wins. Sheaffer Balance, Carmine Red. somewhere around 1939 to the end of the Balance line. After soaking the cap today there was what I assume to be some extremely stubborn ink on the gold cap band. After polishing a bit to get this ink off I noticed a very faint version of what you see highlighted in the picture but it was on the other side of the cap. Is what I noticed under where the ink was but is now gone some matching detail that I have removed that is now only left on one side or is this tarnish that just ended up making it appear that perhaps there was a design there?
  3. Hi I wanted to know if there is any converter available for Cross Classic Century? OR Is there any Cross fountain pen with a threaded cap for there is a converter available? Thanks.
  4. I have been shown by mail a short (9 cm) vintage waterman safety pen, dated 1916, that has no cap threads, no sign of cap wear, nor any obvious design feature to support a cap, tapered or otherwise. Has anyone seen others like this? If it were to be used as a desk pen, would the nib have to remain extended at all times? Is this just a pen that has lost its cap and is therefore essentially unusable? The seller couldn't help me, and before I send for it I wish I could know what to expect...
  5. Hey guys! Just wondering what the best looking pen you've ever seen is? Pictures would be great too! Thanks!
  6. I was unable to edit my other posting about this so I made this one. Basically I am in need of the clip shown in the image I have attached. This is the same exact cap as on my pen. I also need suggestions on where to go to have the cap returned to its original round shape as it was evidently slightly damaged somehow and is slightly out of round.
  7. I recently bought a rOtring 800 mechanical pencil off of amazon. It was from them and not a third party seller. After several days of use and research, I've noticed that the cap has a hole in it and you can see through to the eraser. On all the pictures of rOtring 600 and 800's, I've never seen that. Is this an old model? New model? A fake? Any help on whether this is normal or not would be appreciated, thanks! Drew
  8. I would like to find the little black cap that fits on the pelican 120 and a brown cap for my platig num.
  9. ScottRiqui

    Loose Cap On Mb142?

    I have a burgundy MB142 MB 144 that's in great shape, but the cap-to-body fit is not snug at all. There's no distinct 'click' feeling when you push the cap onto the body; you can feel a little resistance when the cap seats, but nothing positive. I can't see any cracks in the cap, or any damage anywhere on the pen. I'm also not sure where to look, since I don't know what part of the cap and what part of the pen are supposed to be engaging and providing the 'click', if that makes sense. Any help would be appreciated. Scott
  10. kamel

    Pen Cap Too Tight

    Hi All - I just picked up a Visconti pen on eBay that originally was made for a stationers in New York. The cap is so tight I'm afraid of cracking it just by screwing it back on. Is thee a simple fix to lossen it? It's an acrylic cap with a metal band at the base. This was made for the Rebecca Moss store. The picture of the pen is below. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  11. rustynib

    Oxford Pen

    Hi all, I have a black Oxford (made in the USA)pen with right the Oxford 8 nib. The clip is missing - I don´t know how it is. Can You help me ? Thanks, Rusty
  12. I have a Parker 51. In it's cap, one clutch finger is slanted to the left, which slightly inhibits capping performance. If it isn't too much of a bother, could someone tell me if and how can one go about fixing this in a sane, moderately safe way? Many thanks, Edvin
  13. rodtyler1008

    Noir Et Noir Nib/cap Alignment

    Good evening fellow fountain pen enthusiasts, Today I am posting my first on the FPN but I must say, being a silent member for over a year, I have really enjoyed reading the Montbanc posts and following the people who post more frequently. I got my first Montblanc two years ago when I was 18. It was the Montblanc 147 75th Passion and Soul edition with an EF nib and it is still in my rotation. Today I am writing to you all with a question about two of my Montblanc Noir et Noir Fountain Pens. I have to admit that at the time of purchase of my first Noir et Noir, I was under the assumption that it was a Boheme until I realized that there was an absent ring fitting below the threads. With further examination, I noticed that the ring at the end of the pen where the cap posts did not say “Boheme” but instead “Noir et Noir.” It was then that I realized that I had stumbled upon the pen that preceded the Boheme but was later recalled by Montblanc due to copywrite infringement of the name “Noir et Noir.” I was pleasantly surprised when I read that! Unfortunately I over tightened the cap on the back of the pen and broke off the hinged piece where the ink cartridge goes. So early September I took a four hour drive down to the St. Petersburg to visit family and to drop of my Noir et Noir to be fixed along with my Czar Nikolai I Legrand FP which needed to be serviced. It was by luck that when I was down there I checked local CL Listings and found someone who was selling a broken Noir et Noir, coincidentally with the same problem mine had. So I ended up buying it from him and dropping three pens off at the Montblanc Boutique. Last Friday I received all three of my fountain pens back and all of them were functional again. There is just one detail on both the Noir et Noir that has been bothering me. When uncapping the pens and screwing them on the end for writing to retract the nib, neither clips line up with the nibs like I remember them to. So my question is, am I recalling this incorrectly or is the clip on the cap supposed to align with the nib when posted for writing? To me this is a very important detail because without the cap posted the Noir Et Noir is much smaller and almost unbearable to write with and that is why I would think Montblanc would have taken the time to align this correctly. In closing, we all love Montblanc because of their fine attention to detail and I would hate to think that Montblanc has a technician who is so carless and sloppy not to check to see if the pens post correctly. I will post pictures of my Noir et Noirs so that you can see what I am referring to and I would appreciate if you own a Noir et Noir or a Noir et Rouge or a Boheme with retractable nib, to post pictures of your pens posted to compare and see if the cap lines up with the nib. I know how helpful all of you are so thank you in advance for all your help! With much appreciation, Tyler
  14. Pennata Penna

    Cap Ring (Or Any) Scratch Removal

    First of all, this is just a show and tell, not instructions per se. If you broke your pen, I will laugh at you and tell you to bugger off. But, someone has requested this, and I have time to spare, so yea. Okay, here's the step by step cap ring scratches removal on a Pelikan. Let's start this off with showing what the [first world] problem is. http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2822/9796054335_7c8cae5e70.jpg Multiple ring scratches where the cap ring sits on the barrel. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3730/9796089576_0b59e136f0.jpg Heavy scratches demand heavy grit (caution! Start off with a softer grit and gradually find the roughest grit needed.. in my case, 1000 wet and dry, etc.) Then after the deep scratches are gone, then let's remove the "cloud".. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7300/9796060745_850733d9b1.jpg Gradual micromeshes applied parallel to the pen. From teal to grey. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7301/9796079514_f16bd9019b_z.jpg Moving on to liquid solutions. Novus #3 applied perpendicular to the barrel. Skip the official instructions, because you'll save money with plastic/cellophane instead of cloth applicator here, only very little amount needed. http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/9796096446_d7448fd638.jpg Now it's time to use microfibre cloth for the Novus #2. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7304/9796144193_3697743dc0.jpg Novus #1, looking good already. And yes, I reckon it's worth to buy #1. http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3743/9796073765_717b26e00c.jpg Voila. Tools used: Wet&dry sandpaper 1K-2K, Micromesh 4K-12K, Novus 1 to 3 (2 oz bottles should be right for most), Turtle Wax scratch repair, scotch tape, and microfibre cloth. And it took me a good two hours to do it. Ask away and lemme know if something's unclear etc. Hth. Tony PS: By the way, the pen was Pelikan MC110 with Iroshizuku Yama-guri.
  15. Dear all, I've recently remember how much of a engineering marvel the Sheaffer snorkel is. After finding my pen I noticed how the gold plating on the cap, both on the clip and wide cap ring was fading considerably to a brass like finish. Would anyone know how to restore the finish of the gold back to its original luster? Thanks, Badger
  16. Hello I have a question I am making a Franken pen using a vintage nib Section 1 Sheaffer 33 or 3-25 nib. I need idea on minimum size for my cap section of pen. I have spoken to a person in Florida who makes Sterling Silver pen parts. I need to know diameter of the cap so I can order band for the cap my pen. Also artistically what would be a good band thickness? A thin band or thicker band. Any help appreciated. Your Farhan(London England)
  17. Hello I have a question I am making a Franken pen using a vintage nib Section 1 Waterman’s Ideal #2 nib. I need idea on minimum size for my cap section of pens. I have spoken to a person in Florida who makes Sterling Silver pen parts. I need to know diameter of the cap so I can order a band for the cap of my pen as I don't want to get wrong sized band. Also artistically what would be a good band thickness? A thin band or thicker band. Any help appreciated. Yours Farhan(London England)
  18. Hi everybody, I asked the same question in the repair section, but did not get any response. So I hope I am going to be more successful here. I have a Duofold Lucky 8 version. On top of the cap there is a kind of gold disc. This disc has spontaneously fallen of. I would like to get a recommendation what type of glue I need to use to fix it. But I don't want to damage the plastic of the cap or 'oxidise' the gold disc. And I don't want to run the risk that it will fall of again (as I am afraid that I might lose the disc). Should I use, epoxy or superglue or something else? Thanks for any help! Lucas
  19. ahmet_yuce

    Parts For Sheaffer 300

    I have a Sheaffer 300 with crome trim. It's have a nice nib, smooth writter but i'm not happy with crome cap and plastic material of section. I think cap's base material is copper or smtg similar, easily lose form if gets a impact on tip. Not a good choice for a everyday writter which some accidents unavoidable. Anyway could you suggest me a website to find spare parts for Sheaffer 300? Like cap and nib ? Regards Ahmet
  20. Hi all, I've won this Vacumatic http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vintage-parker-fountain-pen-/261208379828?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&nma=true&si=I%252F54QePjwSIBcPn4t%252FY06icTTi8%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc and am wondering how I tell what the correct cap would be? I'm figuring even if it's knackered and I can't find an appropriate cap, it's worth it for the nib alone. But I'd rather not strip it if I can avoid that.





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