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  1. I work in a regulatory chemistry lab so having basically everything resistant ink is a must for archival & forgery purposes. Where I'm at we're under EPA regulations (vs. ISO or TNI) so it only says indelible ink. The majority of the inks I use are Noodler's bulletproof inks & have been approved by our QA/QC officer. Since Noodler's inks are not ISO or anything else certified I decided to do my own tests with some of our common solvents in the lab in case an auditor ever asks about it. My test wasn't anything super scientific but should be enough to show anyone the permanency of the ink. While I was at it I figured it's nice to share my results with you. The test: I filled a beakers with 6 common solvents we use in our lab. The solvents are Hexane, Acetone, Ethyl Acetate, Methylene Chloride, methyl tert butyl ether(MTBE), and Methanol. I wrote the name of each ink on plain copy paper and let it dry overnight. I then let it soaked each piece of paper in the corresponding solvent for at least 1 minuet. During the soak I agitated the piece of paper several times in an attempt to force the ink to wash off. And for reference I wrote the name of the solvent the paper was placed in with a black Bic pen. After soaking I removed the paper and placed it on the counter to dry. Edit: One other note, the ink labeled Noodler's Teal is a 1:4 mix of Bad Green Gator and Bad Blue Heron respectively. This first picture is of everything before it was soaked in solvent. And please forgive my bad handwriting as I was scribbling the names and wasn't worried about penmanship.
  2. yazeh

    Noodler's Polar Brown

    Polar Brown is one of my favorite inks. Ironically, I’m not a fan of the color. It’s somehow bland. It can be a frustrating and finnicky ink, depending the pen used. But in this day age, where the veil on life’s non-permanence and uncertainty has been torn to bits, an ink, as permanent as the paper it bonds with is a source of comfort. When I first got into inks, being too lazy, I ordered a bunch of mystery samples. There were two Polar Browns. When I inked my pen, I told myself, what have I done to deserve such an ink in double amounts. But it grew on me, to the point that I bought a bottle, and I always have a couple of pens inked up, just in case, I have to jot down some important information, words of wisdom, sign a check or write a shopping list. Not a pleasant feeling when your painstakingly craft list melts after an impromptu drizzle or stray snowflake…… It dries in less than 10 seconds with a wet medium nib, and 3 with a fine on Rhodia dotpad. On copy paper it’s instantaneous. However, it takes forever to dry on Tomoe River with a wet nib, but it shades. With a fine nib, 45 seconds, until smudge free… It is also one of the easiest inks to clean out of a fountain pen. I’ve tried it even in a vintage Waterman and cleaning was a breeze. Personally, this is one of those rare inks that I would not use with a stub/ oblique nib/ fude. With a wet/ wide combo it would ghost and bleed through unabashedly. Though sometimes I prefer that dark rich brown, haunting the paper, than the mild muted brown it usually is. I’m not sure if it would be happy in a dry pen. I have had it in a Jinhao 992 for a year with no problem. In a Jinhao 450 with a fude nib, it had flow issues but when I changed the nib to a medium it was much better. When it flows, it’s a joy to write with. And unsurprisingly Polar Brown, loves Noodler’s nib creeper. On Rhodia dot pad Rhodia Back On Tomoe River Swab comparaison On Amazon Copy paper - Front Back On Hilroy - King of the fountain pen unfriendly notebooks Back Yesterday it was raining. So, I decided to do a permanence test.... Note the Black Swan in English Roses was actually Sailor Yodaki... Before After 2 hours under rain/sleet/snow After 18 hours under constant rain Finally I subjected the visible texts to swabs of alcohol on the left side and bleach to ride side....
  3. Noodler's #41 Brown does what it was created to do, and it does it very well. Will it win an award for the best behaving, best shading, and best sheening brown ink ever created? No. It should, however, win an award for being a ridiculously awesome bulletproof brown ink. I love it for that reason and highly recommend it. Quick stats if you don’t want to read all the details: Flow/Lubrication: 2 of 5 Saturation: 4 of 5 Shading: 3 of 5 on Tomoe River; not much on standard papers Feathering: none Bleedthrough: none Showthrough: none Water-Resistance: 5 of 5 Dry Time (FP friendly): <30 sec Dry Time (non-FP friendly): <5 sec! Smearing (dry): none Sheen: None Cleaning & Maintenance: above-average (needed more frequently) Staining: possible on converters and demonstrators - easily remedied with diluted bleach Buy again: absolutely - will always have in my collection *A quick side note...This is my first ink review. Also, my photo editing skills aren't the best. Hilarious combination.* I love brown inks and #41 Brown was one of the first bottles of ink I bought years ago. It is a dark and deep sepia color, according to the founder of Noodler’s Ink. My first thoughts when seeing it on paper, ‘Yep, that’s brown.’ Anytime I want a bombproof brown ink, this is the first bottle I reach for in my collection. Lamy 2000 fine - Tomoe River (yep, I mistakenly went from 'h' to'j' hahha) TWSBI Vac 700 broad - Tomoe River Lamy 2000 fine & TWSBI Vac700 broad - Leuchtturm1917 Noodler’s 3oz glass bottles are simple and functional, filled to the brim. Here’s a closer look at the label on the bottle (read Mr. Tardiff’s description of the ink for more backstory): If you want the best behaving brown ink you’ve ever experienced in your fountain pen’s life, this isn’t for you. #41 Brown doesn’t behave badly, but it does require careful pen maintenance (as does every other highly water-resistant ink regardless of brand and color). I would not leave this ink unused in a pen for very long. It wants to work, not to sit idly waiting around for days or weeks at a time. As long as you use your pens often and clean them regularly, you’ll be fine. Even better if it’s a pen you can easily disassemble. Compared to regular fountain pen inks, water-resistant and bulletproof inks tend to dry out on the nib a bit more quickly when left uncapped - #41 is no different. As long as you’re conscious of this and keep your pen capped when not writing, it should pose no issue. During extended sessions, I had no problems with the nib drying out as long as I kept writing. When I did leave the cap off too long, a quick wipe on a paper towel (or my finger) had the ink flowing again. Dry times were weird on Rhodia and Tomoe River (anywhere from 8-30 seconds pending on how much ink pooled) and exceptional on lesser quality paper (under 5 seconds!). If you’re a lefty or anyone who needs a fast drying ink and you use standard paper more often than Rhodia or Tomoe River, #41 Brown is a great option. Tomoe River (smears you see are my fault - my cat kept jumping on the desk...) There was little to no feathering on every paper I tried, including a junk-mail envelop and a Walmart spiral notebook. Impressive! No bleedthrough and little to no show-through. It’s a drier ink which is awesome if you’ll be writing on lower quality papers. On FP friendly papers, a juicy nib will work best (that is, of course, just MY preference). There is some shading with wetter lines on Tomoe River and Rhodia. How about the bulletproof & waterproofness qualities? Post-soak. On Rhodia and Tomoe River, a tiny bit of ink slightly smeared with a wet finger (and I do mean tiny). On all other paper where every bit of ink could bond with the fibers, nothing moved. Here are a few quick comparisons to some of the other brown inks I have: I must admit, I'm biased. I love Noodler’s Ink & Nathan Tardiff and have a keen appreciation for his water-resistant & bulletproof inks (as well as his mission). When I was first getting into fountain pens, I only wanted waterproof inks and Noodler’s was the first brand recommended to me. It wasn’t until I had a dozen or more bottles of Noodler’s bulletproof inks that I started exploring other non-bulletproof inks and other brands. Though I have a wide variety of inks now, from most brands and companies, I always have at least a couple of pens in my rotation filled with Noodler’s bulletproof inks.
  4. Gday everyone, Long time lurker first time poster I'd like to jump straight into it and go ahead and say that I've been having problems (or should i say A problem) with my Noodlers Bulletproof black. It's an absolutely wonderful ink in pretty much every way, except one. My 'Online German: Event' Pen doesn't seem to agree with the Noodlers ink. (I have a Noodlers Flex pen inked up in Noodlers black which works perfectly fine) I've inked it up through a converter and for about, I would say the first page and a half of writing, it writes fine. It flows well with no skipping etc. However once that 1-2 page thresh-hold has been passed the problems occur: The flow becomes weaker and the nib starts to dry outMinor skipping occurs (some shaking and tapping remedies this)Flow becomes near non-existent Every second stroke skips (No amount of shaking or tapping or wetting the nib remedies this)​I've went back and talked to the boutique owner and he says that he's not surprised that an American ink, especially the 'Bulletproof' line, works poorly with a European pen. At first I thought that maybe there was a problem with the nib/feed. However after purchasing some J-Herbin and Mont-Blanc inks I'm starting to think he may be right. MY PEN WRITES PERFECTLY!! It's a very wet writer and has never skipped or been prone to dry or anything of the sort. I decided to brave the Noodlers in my Online German again, but alas, the same exact problem. I've recently read a post somewhere that the Noodlers 'Bulletproof' line is not a very well lubricated ink and is prone to flowing problems. Anyway tell me what you guys think of my situation and if you've had any similar problems with any of the Noodlers inks. ​
  5. I LOVE Noodler's Baystate Blue. In my humble opinion, it is the best color of blue for fountain pens. My only complaints about it are: It is not fully bulletproof.It might not be eternal meaning it might not archival nor fade resistant.It bleeds through most of my papers I use including my checks.Rectifying the above are very important to me. I would not be ashamed to try a different brand of ink, but I do really like Noodler's products so I guess I am a Noodler's fanboy I am thinking about ordering a bottle of Noodler's Bad Blue Heron which appears to have what Baystate Blue is missing above other than it is not quite the same color. Noodler's Upper Ganges also might be an alternative, but it does not appear to be as bright as Bad Blue Heron. Noodler's Luxury Blue looks just like Upper Ganges to me, but will glow under UV light which I find kind of cool, but it is not important to me. Noodler's Periwinkle does what Luxury Blue does and kind of looks brighter, but the stock image on the Noodler's Ink website makes it hard to tell. Noodler's Polar Blue looks like Bad Blue Heron with the added possible benefits of being freeze-resistant and lubing piston-fill pens. So my question is what comes close to Baystate Blue that is bulletproof. eternal, and doesn't bleed through most papers? I did a search and found this thread about this subject, but it lists alternatives which are not really pertinent to my question above and things have changed in 6 years: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/185947-baystate-blue-alternative/ THANKS!
  6. Frank Savage

    Koh-I-Noor Document Ink Black

    Koh-I-Noor Hardtmuth is a famous manufacturer of (not only) writing, scribing and painting "tools" and accountrements of all kinds, with over 200 years of continuous history from former Austro-Hungarian Monarchy to current Czech Republic. Their sortiment is broad enoght to cover whole range from hardcore development engineers through different artists by trade to hobby pencil cartoonists. This company is the original, first succesfull creator of todays most simple and notorious writing instrument-a graphite pencil in a wooden stick. From the brief above is quite clear, that Koh-I-Noor is realy not specialized in inks. They have a basic, but usefull range of comon grade writing and india inks in several colours, but kind of "just by the way", they have in portfolio Koh-I-Noor Document Ink Black I can´t say what is it based, as this is kept secret as far as I know. It is not an iron-gal ink, it is not a graphite ink, no way it is a more stable breed of "coloured writing lotion". Probably it is one of the few formulas which work with chemical interaction with celulose in the paper. The colour is dark grey-black or black-grey with distinctive greenish hue, depending on paper and pen combo. It darkens over period of several minutes to several months into flat black with greenish hue.The more it darkens, the more it is resistant to any kind of wash-out. It is awarded ISO 14145-2 and BS 3484-2. The latter is a British norm for permanent record inks, and as the Brits are quite hardcore (another word would fit here better...) about what to consider "permanent record", it means quite a lot. I´m not sure how much pH neutral it is, but will update if I get the info. The ink is a bit more viscous than most others, but flows very well and have some lubricity. Basic Parker Quink feels like running water with no lubrication in compaison, from my point of view on distant memories-but keep in mind this is nib-affected feeling. The viscosity causes very little feathering, even on most low quality papers, but also makes fine nibs to produce M line on some quality papers due to surface tension effects. But the width of the line is consistant, no blots. Frankly, no blots at all, except some realy poor papers or papers of very fibrous nature with "open" surface (like kitchen towels...). Flows well, on some papers almost too fast for my taste, but still not like eg. Quink. Due to its nature, after about 15-30 seconds, depending on the nib, it tends to develop a bit of "skin" and makes the pen a false starter. If the nib has a "baby bottom" grind, it can be realy troublefull to start it again. From wet nibs on quality paper, it produces a realy deeply saturated line, embedded to rock bottom into the paper. From dry writers, it can be kind of greyish, but this realy does not alter the endurance of the line. There may be some trouble with drying up the nib in some F writers with smalish and/or fine compartmented feeds during prolonged period of fast writing. On most papers, is dry almost instantly (2-3 seconds). I posted some general info about torture tests I subjected this ink to, from 2008 to 2014. The post is in the Inky thoughts section, here: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/288624-koh-i-noor-document-fountain-pen-inks/page-2?do=findComment&comment=3723625 I must add, that the statement "does not clog the feeds" is OK, but after some testing, I´m sure I wil have to give a good bath to my pens, as the M nib Hero 100 writes dryer now than it should. Well, I used it very sparsely in the last 3 years, albeit it was freshly inked all the time. The abuse this ink can stand is simply unbelievable. The paper vanishes, the ink remains. No matter how do you make the paper to vanish. This says it all. Some people (with degrees in chemistry) claims that this ink is probably the most durable against sun fading ever created, if good, uncoated paper with low filler content is used. Here I will quote myself from the above linked post: Several weeks ago, a clipboard with a day worth of important notes (on poor copy paper, 80g/m2), already a bit soaked in the rain, faceplanted into soaked, liquid clay in a ditch. All was covered to no avail under ochroid mess. So I took it home in a plastic bag, washed the paper gently and recovered every bit of info I had written. This says a lot, when I add the paper was more yellowish-brown-ochroid than white as formerly was... The text was not affected at all. The pens used in the standard review sampler are both Hero 100 of 1950´s vintage, daily writers of my grandfather for some 2 decades, now exclusive daily writers of mine for 8 years. My granddad used them so much that a definitive facette has developed on both nibs, which gives a kind of italic accent to the line, as my writing angle is a bit different to grandpa´s-but close enought to apreciate how smooth gliding writers they are, especialy on vintage paper. The water test-I tried to lay down as rich line as I could, to promote the greenish hue which sometimes apears from this ink on some papers, without any shade of compromising readablitiy of the text. So I wrote about one letter in two seconds the top three lines, the bottom in just slow pace-as writing slow, I write even worse pattern than usualy. The test was performed for about 1 minute under hot running water (like 70°C), then soaking like 5 minutes in a bowl of that hot water and rubbing the bottom line with finger. The paper lost the top layers, is one fluffy spot there, but the text is still there. And by the way-there is no alteration to the text after two years maceration in much more agressive solutions than hot tap water... Generaly, I should apologize for the lack of penmanship screaming out of the paper, I used my pens not as frequently as I was used to in the last 3 years (gap in journaling etc.), no practice either... Also, the sampler was printed with a poor toner cartridge, so the thin grey lines are more nonexistant than anything else, so both samples are freehanded, more in a bit of hurry. The ink is availible in Czech Republic 50 ml plastic bottle for less than 1 EUR to 1,75 EUR equal, depending on greediness of the stationery clerk, or in a nice, simple glass bottle of 30g for 3,5 EUR. On other markets, the price is usualy similarly low, as far as I know. It is one of the cheapest inks I´ve ever seen, but of the most durable and bulletproof you can ever have. There is also a blue version on the market, which is not as much durable and was created, as far as I know-because of demand for "nice blue document ink, not that greyish feculence you sell". But there are traces of fading even after just 1/2 year on direct sunlight, which is nonexistant with the reviewed original black formula.
  7. Greetings All, I love the color and waterproofness of Noodler's La Reine Mauve, but would like to get some shading with it in a flex pen. Has anyone come up with a perfect ink:water ratio to produce a little shading with this ink? Before I experiment with this rather pricey ink, I wanted to see if someone had already done the work. Thanks!
  8. nomadhacker

    Noodler's Bad Green Gator

    I'm trying to make up my mind on this ink. On the one hand, it's a nice green color, a little different from other greens that I have. It's waterproof, bulletproof ink, so it's not going anywhere. And it dries really fast. On the other hand, there's the feathering. It soaks into the paper so fast it spreads and feathers and bleeds through to the other side. Now I'm pretty much always using a fine nib in my pens. If you are a flex/stub/double broad type pen user, this is probably not your ink. It managed to stay where I put it with my fine nib, but there was some spreading of the ink as it went down on the paper. Just means it writes a broader line than you intend. An extra fine nib or maybe some higher end clairfontaine or rhodia paper would probably tame this bad gator a little. Hmmm...
  9. Here's one of the better inks in the 1 oz. Eternal series of Noodler's inks. It's soft and slightly chalky, but looks great on Rhodia. Definitely recommended! http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/901/VFJH2O.jpg
  10. This is another water resistance test. This time, I decided to select only inks that I knew were, or were claimed to be, water resistant. I wanted to find out what that really meant. In addition, I wanted to test for simple water resistance from accidental drops and from smearing by the hand. The test I did followed these steps: Create the written samples using existing inked pens or my Rohrer & Klingner glass pen. Allow to dry for 12 hours.Do a drop test on the grid pattern using an eye dropper and two drops of water. Let stand for 30 seconds, then blot off (not rub) with a tissue.Scan.Do the smear test on the last figure 8 patterns by moistening a finger with water, rubbing firmly for a few seconds, then blotting it dry with a tissue.Scan.Cut the paper down the middle and place the right half in a tray of tap water at room temperature for 1 hour. No rubbing or other manipulation.Remove from tray and place on paper towel until dry.Tape back together and scan.Results are shown below. Baseline scan with drop test: Second scan after smear test: Final scan after 1 hour soak test: Analysis: All the inks tested are more or less water resistant. Several were weakly resistant in that some of the color was washed off, but a permanent line remained behind guaranteeing you would not lose any words you had written. The most permanent inks barely budged when rubbed with a wet finger then soaked under water. Best performers: Noodler’s Kung Te Cheng BlueNoodler’s Heart of DarknessDe Atramentis Document BluePilot BlueNoodler’s Upper Ganges BlueNoodler’s Empire RedNoodler’s Bad Green GatorDe Atramentis Document GreenWorst Performers: Noodler’s Bad Belted KingfisherPilot BlackNoodler’s Liberty’s ElysiumNoodler’s Fox RedThe remaining inks either smeared or faded more than I would want from my permanent inks. Still, there is a good variety of colors available in water resistant inks. Permanence does come with trade offs. The most permanent inks tend to be slow drying depending on the paper. Fast drying isn’t an indicator of permanence, but the faster an ink dries, the less it smudges, in general. Some of the inks are permanent (bulletproof in Noodler’s terms), but that only means some component of the ink is permanent. For example, Noodler’s Fox Red is definitely permanent, but loses some of the red and turns more of an orange if soaked in water. Baystate Blue is permanent, but the color spreads and becomes even brighter blue when wet. Liberty’s Elysium loses its bright blue and leaves behind a faded blue line. Likewise for Bad Belted Kingfisher. If I were looking for the most permanent ink, it would be Kung Te Cheng. However, it comes with warnings about frequent maintenance to prevent pens and feeds from clogging. It does perform well on cheap paper without as much bleed through, but it takes longer to dry. Runners-up would be: Heart of Darkness, Bad Green Gator, and Empire Red. HOD and BGG both bleed profusely and Empire Red will tend to dry in the pen. If permanence is not that important, then there are hundreds of beautiful shades of ink to choose from and this test is merely an academic exercise for the permanent ink purists. Hope these scans help you in selecting your next ink.
  11. Kuhataparunks

    Water Resistant Blue Ink?

    I love the colors of the Iroshizuku blues, but far too many times I've gotten just a single drop on the paper and it is ruined. I love Pilot Blue's water resistance, but it is too dull of a blue color...! Are there ANY other water resistant blues out there? I can judge the colors for myself, but I want more viable options. Anything I can find on here gives specific criteria the ink must meet, limiting selection, but all I'm asking for is water resistant blue. By water resistant I mean either A.) a single drop of liquid won't vanish the ink on the page B.) the i k can survive a single wet cotton swab(see photo)! Dry time was around 30 minutes... Plenty of time for the ink to settle. I swabbed a clean wet cotton once over the pilot blue ink once and nothing happened. New clean, wet cotton swab over Asa-Gao and got those ghastly results. With a new wet cotton I swabbed over the Pilot Blue 4 more times until it budged, which is slightly visible in the photo. Any suggestions or other options? Thanks guys!!
  12. I use my fountain pens at work a lot. Not only do I take notes, write drafts of reports and memos, and sign documents, but I also use them to mark up presentations and other reports as I review them. I like to use red and green when marking documents. I like blacks and blues for my notes and general writing. Above all, I need them to be somewhat water-resistant, because in the office environment papers come into accidental contact with beverages and such. I'd rather my writing be somewhat permanent so accidents don't make a mess of the work. I recently discovered Noodler's inks after having been a fountain pen user for many years. It wasn't until the last few months that I started to get interested in the hobby of pens and inks. That's when I discovered FPN and other forums and began reading everything I could find about pens, inks, and paper. I got interested in Noodler's inks because of the wide variety of colors and their claim to water resistance. I learned that the inks I was using were not the best for the environment in which I was using them, so I started trying out other inks. After about six months, I took a look at my ink collection and realized I had a bunch of Noodler's inks, mostly because of their claims of semi-permanence. I decided to do my own test of the inks I had to help me determine if I had selected the right ones for the job. I was confused by the different terms Noodler's used: "bulletproof" and "water resistant". Which did I need? I would like my writing to retain as much of the original color and content should it accidentally get soaked by an office spill. I'm not so concerned about forgery or intentional changes to the writing. Of the Noodler's inks I have, all but one is listed as "water resistant". All but two are listed as "bulletproof". I'm thinking I need water resistant more than bulletproof. Anyway, I decided to test what I had. Using a sheet of 28# Staples Bright White Laser paper (nice smooth finish I use for some of my writing), I wrote two lines per ink across the sheet. The ink was allowed to dry for over 48 hours. I scanned a "before" image. Then, I cut the sheet in half and placed the right half in a tray of tap water at room temperature for 1 hour. After an hour, the half sheet was removed and placed on a paper towel to dry. When dry, it was taped to its mate, and I scanned an "after" image. The results are included here. Before: Photo taken at the two minute mark: After: I was somewhat relieved to see that my inks all survived to one degree or another. Even the one ink not listed as water resistant made a respectable showing. It was interesting to note that some bulletproof inks retained their total characteristics while others faded, spread out, or lost some color components. In order of performance, here's my ranking: #1 - Noodler's Black (absolutely true to it's claims, no visible changes) #2 - Tie - Bad Green Gator and 54th Massachusetts (some faint amounts of dye lifted off in the water, but not enough to change the color or appearance #4 - Noodler's Fox Red (almost immediate loss of red hues and left behind an orange line) #5 - Liberty's Elysium (lost its deep blue dye component in the first few minutes) #6 - Baystate Blue (color remained true, but significant bleeding out into the surrounding paper) #7 - Nikita (for some reason, the red color intensified and spread out on the paper) All in all, my go-to inks, Black, 54th, and BGG held up to my expectations. My biggest disappointment was Liberty's Elysium. I love the ink and was hoping it would hold its color better than it did. My greatest surprise was Nikita Red and its reasonable showing. It's nice to have a low-cost red for general mark-up and editing that holds up to some office mishaps. Hope this helps others in selecting inks.
  13. I recently purchased 1 oz. of Noodler's Red Fox ink use in an old Lamy Safari I haven't used in a while. I chose this ink due to it's crimson color, bulletproof qualities , and rave reviews on these forums. However, I was incredibly disappointed by the amount of feathering it produced. Granted, Lamy nibs are notoriously large (the EF writes like a M), but the ink is so watery and bleedy that I simply cannot use it. How can a universally praised ink perform so poorly? Is this the case for all red inks? Are there any reds that write tight, solid lines?
  14. I'd like a 1.1mm Italic nib pen to run some Bad Black Mockasin. I'll use it for document signing and other such stuff, so nothing ridiculous looking. $50 absolute tops What are your recommendations? Please no Kaweco's! Thanks, Adam
  15. I've been searching for inks that have very solid water resistance and that can take having water dripped or spilled on them. Unfortunately, many of the colorful inks I like aren't very resistant, so I've been trying different one. I've concluded that only a few companies have truly water resistant inks. Among those are Noodlers, Pilot, and Rohrer and Klingner. I decided to collect all of my water resistant inks and test them to decide which ones I can rely on to deliver what I want. My goal is to find a set of black, blue, red, and green inks I can incorporate in my daily rotation while throwing in some of my more ephemeral colorful inks for fun. So, I selected 16 inks from my collection and conducted a water test. Using a Rhodia pad and a Rohrer & Klingner glass pen, I wrote one line for each ink. Using the glass pen ensured consistency in how each ink was represented on the paper. I let the paper dry for 24 hours. I then cut the paper in half vertically. I first did a water droplet test by dripping some water onto the grid pattern for each ink, letting it stand for about 5 seconds, and then wiping it off with a paper towel to simulate a spill at the office and quick rub off of the spill. Next, I filled a small tray with tap water at room temperature and placed the right half of the paper into the tray, making sure it was entirely submerged. I took a photo of the paper in the tray within a couple minutes to get an idea of how the ink behaved initially in water. After fifteen minutes, I removed the paper from the water and placed it on a paper towel to dry overnight. I then taped the right half back to the left half and scanned the page with a color scale included to help with color adjustments for monitors. The scans and photo are attached. BEFORE: DURING: AFTER: Results: Noodler's Black - unmoved by rubbing or soaking Noodler's Heart of Darkness - unmoved by rubbing or soaking Noodler's 54th Massachusetts - unmoved by rubbing or soaking Noodler's Kung Te-cheng - very light smear from rubbing, but unmoved by soaking Pilot-Namiki Blue - a bit more color moved when it was rubbed and slight fade from the soaking Noodler's Upper Ganges Blue - a bit more color moved when it was rubbed and unmoved from the soaking Noodler's Bad Belted Kingfisher - smearing from the drop rubbing test and also significant color fade from the soak Noodler's Liberty's Elysium - smearing from the drop rubbing test and also significant color fade from the soak Noodler's Baystate Blue - no smearing from rubbing and just a slight color lifting from the soak. In fact, BSB got darker and brighter blue after the soaking! Noodler's Bad Green Gator - very slight smear from the rubbing, but completely unaffected by soaking. Noodler's Hunter Green - same performance as BGG. Only difference is that Hunter Green does not bleed through the paper whereas BBG goes right through almost any type of paper. Noodler's Empire Red - very slight smear from the rubbing, but completely unaffected by soaking Noodler's Fox Red - no smearing from the rubbing, but loses some of its red hue from soaking. Result is a rather orange remnant. Noodler's Nikita Red - good deal of smearing when rubbed, and a lot of red color lifted off after soaking leaving behind a pinkish red line. Custom Mix "Black Russian" - same performance as Nikita, but left behind a nice, dark black/red line. This is my red/black mix of 1 part Nikita and 9 parts Noodler's Black. I get nice shading from this mix, too. It's a well-behaved blend. R&K Scabiosa - What can I say? It's an iron-gall ink. Absolutely un-phased by anything. Once dry on the paper, it doesn't go anywhere.
  16. Sandy1

    Noodler's 54 Massachusetts

    ➤ Please take a moment to adjust your gear to accurately depict the Grey Scale below. As the patches are neutral Grey, that is what you should see. Mac: http://www.computer-darkroom.com/colorsync-display/colorsync_1.htmWintel PC: First associate the colour profile sRGB IEC61966-2.1 with your monitor at the operating system level, then deploy Calibrise http://www.calibrize.com/index.htmlhttp://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/27ddb717.jpg - http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/ff436a47-7ee9-4e1d-a2c6-2e8cc820f845_zps965c2bdf.jpg - Fidelity One may compare the appearance of the ink I used to the depiction on the Noodler's site: noodlersink dot com Note Well: I give all Noodler's inks of their 'bulletproof' family an almighty shaking prior to use, wait for the froth to subside and the ink to return to ambient temperature, then charge the pen. Figure 1. Swabs & Swatch Paper: HPJ1124. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK212_zpse01f6deb.jpg Figure 2. NIB-ism Paper: HPJ1124. Depicts nibs' line-width and pens' relative wetness. Distance between feint vertical pencil lines is 25mm. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK211_zpsba49fd56.jpg L → R: Pilot, 440, 1745, PPP, P99, Carene. WRITTEN SAMPLES - Moby Dick Ruling: 8mm. Figure 3. Paper: HPJ1124. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK219_zps2046d495.jpg Figure 4. Paper: Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK218_zpsc1abbbef.jpg Figure 5. Paper: G Lalo. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK216_zps8883ebb9.jpg Figure 6. Paper: Royal. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK217_zpsf0000066.jpg Figure 7. Paper: Staples. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK214_zps283c8b4e.jpg OTHER STUFF Figure 8. Smear/Dry Times & Wet Tests. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK213_zps8ed5efe2.jpg Figure 9. Bleed- Show-Through on Staples. (Reverse of Figure 7.) http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK215_zpseb120fcc.jpg N54M Diluted Pen: Rosetta North Star + steel Schmidt B nib. Paper: HPJ1124. Samples on Rhodia & Staples held no great surprises, so are not shown. Figure 10. Written Samples: http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK220_zps4d52a86b.jpg Figure 11. Smear / Dry Times: http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK221_zps16eaf583.jpg We thank Member composertp for written samples of diluted N54M at Post № 23 https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/246357-noodlers-54th-massachusetts/?p=2693483 Hi-Res Samples Originals are 60x30mm. Pilot on HPJ1124: http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK224_zps8944ee2a.jpg 1745 on Rhodia: http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK225_zps91350e45.jpg PPP on G Lalo: http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK227_zps793998b2.jpg Carene on Royal: http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK229_zps23094018.jpg N54M @ 60% from Rosetta on Rhodia: http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2013/Ink%20Review%20-%20Noodlers%2054%20Massachusetts%20N54M/INK223_zps271724df.jpg GENERAL DESCRIPTION Type: A member of Noodler's family of 'bulletproof' cellulose reactive fountain pen inks.Presentation: Bottle.Availability: Available when Topic posted.Daily writer? For the committed.A go-to ink? When a robust high-performance dark Blue-Black ink is desired.USE Business: (From the office of Ms Blue-Black.) Suitable for business correspondence devoted to gravitas.For personal work product, the very pleasurable writing experience supports longer writing sessions, even with very narrow firm nibs on toothy paper.Performance on 'lowest bidder' copy/print papers is admirable, and two-sided use is a reasonable expectation.Even though I am a right handed under-writer, the long S/DTs would have me using loose sheets that could be hung in a warm breeze until dry and/or using blotter sheets, so perhaps not the best pick when hastily sorting out a bale of bumph.Readability is quite high, though I find inks so close to Black to be rather stark, and don't roll along so quickly during the longer read, which may be off-set by the reader increasing their coffee intake. Those who use Black inks may find N54M to be fleet-of-foot, so may switch to decaf.The robust qualities of N54M will be appreciated by those whose work is exposed to the risk of accidental exposure to various liquids, or may be subjected to mauling by highlighters.Too close to Black to be used for mark-up & annotation of material printed in Black, and wouldn't be my pick for dedicated forms work or 'legal' signatures. Lacks the zap needed for error correction or grading.Illustrations / Graphics: Yes indeed.For charts & graphs, N54M could be used as a substitute for Black for both area and line formats.Trials on frosted draughting Mylar® were quite encouraging, was atypical performance for an FP ink. (Also demonstrated the persistent nature of N54M.) Any table draughting aids, such as zee tea square, would need to be kept free of N54M in the same manner as inks for technical pens. Given the long S/DTs, extra care is needed to avoid smears & smudges, so not the best pick for gesture drawing.Due to clean-up and dry-out foibles, I would use N54M from pens, setting aside other applicators such as brushes, though those so inclined are likely to find work-arounds.Contrary to my experience with wet FP inks, I found N54M was quite compatible with steel dip pen nibs, to the extent that even I could achieve passable results from nibs without aux reservoirs.Lubricity was much appreciated when using very sharp nibs on coarse paper.As a watercolour, the very high water resistance supports overworking with wet media with little risk exposure to ink coming adrift from sheets that were soaked to remove sizing; and the dye/s seem to behave in concert, so washes should be of consistent hue across gradient values.Students: If one can avoid nib dry-out during stop-start note taking, (and commits to pen maintenance), N54M offers a pleasant writing experience, strong performance even on 'lowest bidder' papers, and very high durability.Likely to be acceptable for assignments, though when/if a something more than mundane scribbling might be generated, consider an ink with more of a 'bright bulb' appearance, such as PR American Blue.Personal: Here I am again, setting aside an ink as it comes for personal personal writing - it is just too close to Black, especially viewed under indoor domestic lighting. As Member composertp and I choose to dilute this ink for personal use, I can only speculate on how others would use this ink for personal writing.Given that this is a wet ink, I trend toward dry pens that keep the value high enough to avoid the appearance of full-on Black.That said, it is apparent that the field is open to explore a range of pen+paper combos, so have at it! PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE & CHARACTERISTICS Please Note: N54M is not to be mistaken for Waterman Mysterious Blue, so my cautions might seem rather loud, yet my intention is to enable enjoyment of inks that take a bit of special care & feeding to reach their potential. As N54M has some idiosyncrasies, those might not be evident in all cases; and I don't doubt that I've missed a few, especially those which are revealed over time or extensive use. I strongly encourage dear readers to gather more information from other Members' Ink Reviews, Replies and other trustworthy sources. Flow Rate: High.Nib Dry-Out: There was occasional nib tip dry-out from pens left uncapped for a few minutes, resulting in some virga.Pens left uncapped too long gave a choppy result, as shown in the circled areas on Figure 7.Some Members previously mentioned that slight dilution was a work-around for that vexing behaviour.Start-Up: * Immediate from capped pens that were recently charged.Some capped pens that were left idle overnight needed a quick dip in water to be roused from their slumber. Lubricity: High.A very 'fast' ink, even from narrow nibs on coarse papers.With my brisk light hand, an effort was required to keep the plump wet Pelikan tethered to the Rhodia.Nib Creepies: Yes.One of my pet peeves. Even though the Carene is Red, I could see it blushing from the embarrassment of having its exquisite nib defiled.Staining (pen): ** Not seen after three days.Clogging: * If a pen is left uncapped for too long, the ink exposed to air will dry out, requiring an effort to get ink flowing [evenly] again.There did not appear to be any upstream stoppage high in the feed or in the reservoir.Bleed- Show-Through: All pen+paper combos used here were greenlighted for two-sided use. Not to rain on the parade, but at least one Member has depicted bleed-through on cheap & nasty paper.Feathering / Wooly Line: Not seen on papers used.Aroma: Not noticed whilst writing.Hand oil sensitivity: Not evident.Clean-Up (pen): ** Deceptive - much residue remains after a plain water flush, even though rinse water was clear.Wet ink was quite readily removed from the ink reservoirs, but cleansing the nib units and sections required use of a commercial pen cleaning solution for draughting pens. e.g. Koh-i-Noor Rapido-Eze. (My DIY pen cleaning solution containing water, 1% ammonia & surfactant did not have enough oomph.) An ultrasonic cleaner was also effective, and minimised time exposed to clean-up chemistry.Mixing/Blending: Discouraged.In addition to the usual perils of mixing, the robust properties of N54M may be compromised.Other Noodler's 'bulletproof' inks just might be tried.Archival: Claimed.__ __ __ * Other Members also mentioned instances of hard starting. - To alleviate that nuisance, I suggest that at the end of a writing session, one remove excess ink from the nib+feed. - Those using N54M as a daily writer may find that charging their pen at the start of the day also helps to remove ink concentrated by evaporation from the nib+feed. (Ms Fussy would keep the nib+feed immersed in water to prevent dry-out, blot the nib+feed, then charge the pen. As N54M has a very high dye-load, the bit of water that might creep up the feed or otherwise be carried forward should be inconsequential for general work.) - Pens with a hooded nib could alleviate dry-out during use, but due to clean-up challenges exacerbated by nib creep, I would prefer not to use N54M in a pen with a fixed hood. e.g. I'd choose a Parker 45 not a Parker 51. ** Of the FP inks I've used to date, N54M is the most persistent. - Pens should be scrupulously clean before charging, not allowed to dry-out, and thoroughly cleansed after use. - Internals of caps & barrels should be cleansed; and one might expedite clean-up if the pen may be safely disassembled to the extent that one is confident it can be re-assembled afterwards. - Some practitioners are reluctant to use such persistent inks in pens which may react adversely to chemicals used for clean-up and/or are inherently tedious to remove the last vestiges of ink. e.g. Vacumatics, Snorkies, Visconti Power Fillers. Members have shared their thoughts & experience on cleaning certain models of pens in this Topic: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/244152-easiesthardest-pen-in-your-collection-to-clean-for-ink-changing/page__view__findpost__p__2658017 - A set of samples similar to those in the Topic Noodler's Benevolent Badger Blue - Adhesion On Mylar & Aluminium Foil was also prepared, so if you're profoundly curious about those, please send a PM. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/233669-adhesion-noodlers-benevolent-badger-blue-on-mylar-aluminium-foil/page__view__findpost__p__2512103 - See also: Limit to Soaking? https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/229245-limit-to-soaking/page__view__findpost__p__2453755 THE LOOK N54M does not have the chalky appearance of some 'bulletproof' inks, though it is without lustre. Presence: A respite from full-on Black. Saturation: High.A fully-inked line is typical.Shading Potential: Not even imaginary.Dilution reveals shading.Line quality: Very high.Variability: Pen+nib combos used: †None - N54M is too saturated to generate appreciable variation.Papers used:Very little.Typical of wet saturated inks, one should watch for more than the usual line width variation, which depends on the papers' absorbency, coating, etc.Malleability: Decidedly low, which is an attractive property for a daily writer ink, when consistent appearance & performance across a range of pen+paper combos is desired.___ ___ † Noodler's offers suggestions as to their preferred nib set-up. http://noodlersink.com/adjusting-nibs/ As ever, I do not cherry pick or adjust the pens used in the review process to match an ink, rather I prefer an array representative of common pens. I believe the Written Samples show that it is not necessary to use an unusual nib set-up, which is a very good thing indeed. PAPERS Lovely papers: All.N54M ♡ ♥ ♡ paper! Trip-wire Papers: ☠ Not seen.Copy/Printer Paper: Impressive results. Writing experience was pleasurable, line quality was high, and no bleed- show-through with pen+paper combos used.Tinted Papers: A likely pick.Is high-end paper 'worth it'? Very much a matter of preference over performance.Personally, coated papers seem too slick for my hand.High-end papers that are uncoated, have a low degree of calendering, or have low resistance to bleed- show-through seem likely dance partners.ETC. Majik: No - just not sufficiently malleable to conjure.Billets Doux? Impossible from yours truly.Personal Pen & Paper Pick: The Pilot 'Lady' on Rhodia.The hard nib generates a very narrow line, which keeps the visual weight of the dark line from plummeting through the sheet.The slightly warm tint of the Rhodia cossets the narrow line by reducing simultaneous contrast, and the coated surface keeps the line crisp & taut.Yickity Yackity: My first impression of this ink was formed by the Review by Member iliadodyssey, then firmed-up by Member arkgray in his Review, so I was not too keen on adding another Teal-leaning Blue-Black that runs on rails to my array. As these things sometimes go, a friend acquired a bottle, liked the ink, so gifted me with a sizeable sample, along with an encouraging, "You really must try this one." (She also liked Standardgraph vergißmeinnicht!) So I gave N54M a whirl, liked its potential, then diluted it, and liked it more. But I've no inkling if it'll be replaced when the 15ml bottle runs dry, though as I keep diluting it, that decision has become less pressing. And the Benevolent Badger is unlikely to relinquish its sett.Ah kushbaby, can yet another high maintenance robust Dark Blue-Black ink wriggle its way onto your ink shelves?= ==== = NUTS BOLTS & BOILERPLATE Pens - Written Samples: A. Pilot 'Lady' (White) + H882 Fine nib. B. Sheaffer 440 (Burgundy) + steel F nib. C. Reform 1745 + duo-tone steel nib. D. Platinum President Purist + 22K B nib. E. Pelikan P99 Technixx (Blue) + steel B nib. F. Waterman Carene + 18K factory stock Stub nib. - Figure 11, 12: Rosetta North Star + steel Schmidt B nib. - Lines & labels: Omas Turquoise from a Pilot Penmanship + EF. Papers: HPJ1124: Hewlett-Packard laser copy/print, 24lb.Rhodia: satin finish vellum, 80gsm.G. Lalo Verge de France: natural white, laid, 100gsm.Royal: 25% cotton, laser/inkjet copy/print, 'letterhead', 90gsm.Staples: house brand multi-use copy/print, USD4/ream, bears FSC logo, 20lb.Imaging An Epson V600 scanner was used with the bundled Epson s/w at factory default settings to produce low-loss jpg files.No post-capture manipulation of scanner output was done, other than dumb-down by Epson, Photo*ucket, IP.Board s/w, and your viewing gear.Other Inks This Review uses the same Written Sample format, atrocious handwriting and some pen+paper combos common to most of my previous Reviews of Blue-Black inks. Consequently, ad hoc comparisons through manipulation of browser windows is supported. Should that functionality not meet your requirements, I welcome your PM requesting a specific comparison. Additional scans may be produced, but the likelihood of additional inky work is quite low. Fine Print ◊ The accuracy and relevance of this Review depends in great part upon consistency and reliability of matériel used. ◊ Ink does not require a label/notice to indicate (changes in) formulation, non-hazardous ingredients, batch ID, date of manufacture, etc. ◊ As always YMMV, due to differences in materials, manner of working, environment, etc. ◊ Also, I entrust readers to separate opinion from fact; to evaluate inferences and conclusions as to their merit; and to be amused by whatever tickles your fancy. -30- Tags: Fountain Pen Ink Review Sandy1 Noodler's 54th Massachusetts Blue-Black 54 Fifty-four Fiftyfourth BlueBlack 2012 2013
  17. Ok. I'm probably unreasonably excited about this ink. Growing up, Periwinkle was my absolute favorite color from the Crayola box. I had hoped to find a good periwinkle color of ink when I got into fountain pens. But most of them don't look quite there. And Noodler's Eternal Periwinkle, I've heard doesn't really behave itself well. This ink was an accident as a result of a dye supplier change for one of the dyes in Pendemonium exclusive Violet Vote. Resulting in an almost perfect Crayola periwinkle blue. Sadly, according to Pendemonium, Nathan isn't going to make any more of this and it's just gone when gone, as he's working on getting his color reformulated back for regular Violet Vote. This ink flows smoothly on the paper. It's not what I'd call a wet ink. Rather a more thick feeling smooth ink. Not really a shading ink either. At least, not in the fine nib I was using. It may have some in a stub. Completely unmoved by the water. In fact, if the paper weren't a little wrinkly where it got wet, I couldn't be able to tell. Dries fast. Under 10 sec on Rhodia. No feathering or bleeding on the Rhodia pad at least. Nathan, tell me again why this isn't going to be a regular issue? Please? I took pictures of the ink review under my Ott Light last night to try and get as close colors as I could. I'll add a scan later. In the comparisons box I only had Iroshizuku Ajisai on hand of the other erstwhile periwinkles. I do plan on adding the Herbin Bleu Pervenche to my ink stable pretty soon, but a quick image search will show that while it's a nice enough color, it's different. And the reference
  18. nomadhacker

    Noodler's Bad Belted Kingfisher

    I almost didn't try this ink. Bad Green Gator was just sooo bleeding and feathering I thought perhaps all the Warden series inks from Noodler's behaved similarly. I'm glad that I did try this ink though, because it does not behave like Gator. The color is perhaps a little more standard dark blue, or blue-black in color. The flow is wet and smooth. Writing with this ink is pretty nice. It has some shading which is also nice. Some bit of the color bleeds off in water. But the rest is bulletproof, so it isn't going anywhere.
  19. InterInk

    Waterproof Brown

    Hi, I'm looking for a waterproof/bulletproof brown ink. I like the color of Sheaffer brown. I use brown ink for my school notes on yellow paper. Can someone help me find something with good water-resistence and brown/red color?
  20. - on Rhodia dotPad N°16 paper - with a TWSBI Diamond 580, fine nib - minimal, but extant, shading front: http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2891/8810288085_0445f43e0d_o.jpg Noodler's 54th Massachusetts by jakoblwells, on Flickr back: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5349/8810553665_6db2121060_b.jpg Noodler's 54th Massachusetts back by jakoblwells, on Flickr





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