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  1. I have a few Parker 51 pens that I've taken apart, cleaned out, and now it's time to replace their sacs, so I thoroughly removed any gunk and residue from the sac nipple, then shellac'd the new sac and left it to dry for a day or so. The result: after the shellac dries, it seems that it doesn't provide a good air seal. There seem to be "bubbles" under the sac between the "ridges" of the sac nipple, and as I apply some pressure on the sac, it starts to separate from the sac nipple very easily. For this reason, I'm too afraid to put this in a pen, because even though it sold of holds, I'm afraid it would come loose and start to leak soon. It also seems that the shellac is weak, if I apply very little force the sac comes off easily. I've now repeated the process 3 times, tried 2 different kinds of shellac, each time cleaning out the gunk and residue from the previous attempt carefully. But I always get the same result. What am I doing wrong? Is there a trick that I'm missing here? This feels very silly because I was able to do this successfully in the past but for some reason I can't get it right this time.
  2. I've disassembled a couple of Parker 51s for cleaning and tuning. On one of these pens, the sac came off even though I didn't really want to take it off. I assume when I heated it up in order to take off the hood, it must've also destroyed whatever was holding this sac in place. The sac itself is somewhat discolored but it doesn't seem torn or damaged in any way. Is it okay to reuse this old sac by shellacing it back to the connector when I reassemble the pen? Or is this something that I shouldn't do?
  3. Venemo

    Which Parker 51 Cap Is Legit?

    On the left side, there is the usual Parker 51 cap shape that I was already familiar with. On the right, it's a cap that came with a Parker 51 that I recently got from ebay. It has the 51 printed on it along with "1/10 12K GF" then "Made in USA". However it's suspicious to me that it has a somewhat slimmer apperance, a smaller jewel and a longer arrow clip. Can the cap on the right side of the picture be legit for the pen it came with? The pen is an otherwise ordinary looking aerometric 51 with the filler that has the black plastic bit at the top and the "To fill press ribbed bar firmly 4 times..." imprint and a barrel that says "Made in England". I think the fact that the barrel comes from England and the cap from the USA is quite suspicious. However, I'm pretty sure I've read about some early aerometric 51s that have a longer clip, so maybe this is just one of those? What do you guys think?
  4. Hey guys, During my vacation in Greece, my bag was stolen and with it my trusty Parker 51. So I started to search for a replacement on ebay and a few other sites, and I just realized that they are now selling for like 2-3x the price I got mine back in 2018. It was a British burgundy 51 with a rolled silver cap, and I got it for about 60 bucks or so in 2018. But now, I can't find the same model anywhere below 180~200. Hell, I can't even find a decent one with a lustraloy cap below 100~120. What gives?
  5. Carguy

    Mkiii Parker 51 Color Question

    In reading the Parker 51 book, I am finding a color I didnt know they made in a MKIII 51 - Turquoise Blue. Very similar to that color 61 which is my favorite color in that range. Do any of the big collectors have a 51 in Turquoise Blue that they can share a picture of? Id also like to see Rage Red for reference. I picked up a red Argentina model but its not as bright as I expected it to be. Any one willing to share would be greatly appreciated. Mike
  6. WLSpec

    Where To Look For A 51 Vacumatic

    I haven't ventured much into the world of vintage Parker pens, but after hearing endless good things about the 51, I am thinking of getting one. I am curious to know where you would recommend looking for one (best online stores) and what prices to look for. So far it looks like I could potentially get one for around $80 or so (looking for a regular sized vacumatic P51) but I want to make sure it is restored and in decent condition (I am looking on Ebay, but I have had some bad pen experiences on Ebay and I would want to make sure it is a good seller). So, what price should I look for with a P51 Vacumatic, and where should I look? (I have also been scanning classifieds but I don't see many there). Thank you for any info Edit: Likely doesn't matter, but I am okay if it doesn't have a nib in it - just might give a few more options
  7. Or not ~~ interesting, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. This custom "51" features the following: Four “quick change” threaded cap top jewels: 1) a Solid Gold Crown – ideal to have on the pen in your pocket when going to see the dentist – this one is also of course known as the Crown Jewel; 2) .45 solid lead – ideal for high caliber meetings; 3) 9mm Brass Jacket suitable for lower caliber meetings or casual writing; 4) 146/9 Mont Blanc White Star - ideal for highly pretentious meetings with status conscious individuals or groups… etc. The stainless steel cap has been bead blasted and strongly resembles titanium. The war time Vermeil Blue Diamond clip is bent in such a fashion that it would hard if not impossible to duplicate – it is definitely crooked… but, I have not ever found it to be dishonest in any respect. The hood or shell is dark blue and the barrel is black – reminiscent of two-tone cars in the ‘50s & 60’s. The filling unit and blind cap are oversized slightly. The longer than standard ink pump rod is brass and is housed in one excellent red anodized bushing. The added vacuum pressure sort of supercharges the filling system. The end of the rod contains a silver disc with the Parker Halo encased in translucent red plastic from the Parker Model Shop – the same exact red plastic used to make the Parker T-1 red jewels – it took way too long to make but that’s just hindsight. The nib is an 18k 61 nib which was made in the UK. Don’t know the reason why but 51 and 61 nibs made in the UK are just better writers and smoother than those made in the US – just a fact. Like it – Love it – or Hate it – you’ve got to at least agree it’s interesting…? Life’s too short to always take Pens too seriously. ralph prather
  8. Or not ~~ interesting, like beauty, is in the eye of the beholder. This custom "51" features the following: Four “quick change” threaded cap top jewels: 1) a Solid Gold Crown – ideal to have on the pen in your pocket when going to see the dentist – this one is also of course known as the Crown Jewel; 2) .45 solid lead – ideal for high caliber meetings; 3) 9mm Brass Jacket suitable for lower caliber meetings or casual writing; 4) 146/9 Mont Blanc White Star - ideal for highly pretentious meetings with status conscious individuals or groups… etc. The stainless steel cap has been bead blasted and strongly resembles titanium. The war time Vermeil Blue Diamond clip is bent in such a fashion that it would hard if not impossible to duplicate – it is definitely crooked… but, I have not ever found it to be dishonest in any respect. The hood or shell is dark blue and the barrel is black – reminiscent of two-tone cars in the ‘50s & 60’s. The filling unit and blind cap are oversized slightly. The longer than standard ink pump rod is brass and is housed in one excellent red anodized bushing. The added vacuum pressure sort of supercharges the filling system. The end of the rod contains a silver disc with the Parker Halo encased in translucent red plastic from the Parker Model Shop – the same exact red plastic used to make the Parker T-1 red jewels – it took way too long to make but that’s just hindsight. The nib is an 18k 61 nib which was made in the UK. Don’t know the reason why but 51 and 61 nibs made in the UK are just better writers and smoother than those made in the US – just a fact. Like it – Love it – or Hate it – you’ve got to at least agree it’s interesting…? Life’s too short to always take Pens too seriously. ralph prather
  9. Okay, so sometime back i bought these 2 parker 51 lookalike pens to try out hooded nibs(which I really liked). Now, one of them has developed skipping an hard starting issues, because I'm a lefty and many paper fibres and gunk are stuch in the grip section. I would really like to open it and give it a thorough clean, and it would satisfy me very much so. Since it is a very cheap pen (<$1), I did not hesitate to carry out repairs myself. I watched a few tutorials and realized that the feed can be accessed by rotating the grip section on its threads. Now, I tried this, with the result that it worked magnificently on one pen (the good one) and god help me but for the life of me i can NOT open the other one. I have tried everything, every largest amount of force I can muster, but I can't do it. Now, I as it is a relatively modern pen, I don't think the threads are covered in shellac, but in some kind of glue. Again, I could not find any traces of anything on the threads of the other one(they are the same in every way). What should I do?? Please guide me.
  10. Dear all, I am restoring my 51. I do not have access to any shellac to fix the hood. What common household items will suffice? Clear nail polish maybe? Also, please the photo and tell what will the best method to remove the scratch on the hood, and the grit sizes. I have bought Micromesh grits. Regards, Joarder
  11. Daddysteve

    Help In Identifying A Pen

    I purchased a pen at a car boot sale it has Parkers with an s and 51 under it, the cap has a parker arrow clip and the nib is a bankers nib Any ideas?
  12. Greetings enthusiastic FP network community! I am new here, began collecting from around 3-4 years ago. Ever since I didn't really put much thought into taking my hobby up a notch until now. I recently just got a Parker 51 vacumatic from an antiques store for the equivalent of about $70. But what really weirded me out was me not being able to identify it's variant, as I couldn't find any similar pen to it on google so far. I thought maybe someone can help me out and give me more information about it and if I had a good deal? Information about the FP : It's vacumatic, 14K gold filled, and has ".7." written on the barrel. I am not sure which colour it's in, but I am assuming it's either Mustard, Yellowstone or Buckskin beige.
  13. HalfDeadHero

    Question About 21 And 51 Desk Sets.

    I'm new here and have only been collecting for about a year. I have recently got into 51s and was wondering if a 51 would fit into a 21 desk set or vice-versa? Sorry if this is common knowledge but I gave it a couple googles and couldn't find any good information. Thanks in advance.
  14. Burtbricker

    Parker 51 Question

    I just got a Parker 51 today. I have a question about how it writes. I would say that it's an EF and wet only if I hold the pen a specific way. Just picking the pen up and writing it's dry and skips. I have a to move the pen around to find a sweet spot. I did buy it from a reputable seller. I would call him and see if something can be done but I don't want to bug him if that's normal. Thanks for any suggestion. Burt
  15. I recently purchased a serviced Parker 51. However it skips terribly, and starts hard. Backstory: So I asserted that the seller had maybe mislead me about servicing it. So I decided to take it apart and fix it myself. The filler unit works well, so I didn't bother to take that apart. I took off the hood, but realized that the seller didn't lie about it, the collector and feed were completely clean. I re-aligned the nib and feed with the collector carefully, so that the wide air gap on the collector is now precisely over the top of the nib. Then I pushed the nib and feed into the collector as far as they go, and screwed the hood back on. The result: Flow has improved a little bit (possibly because I aligned the nib + feed in relation to the collector better), but the pen still hard starts and skips and like hell. There is a very tight sweet spot, ie. I can hold it in a way in which it skips much less, and of course it doesn't skip when I apply considerable pressure, but... it is not pleasurable to write with it this way. How can I fix this? What am I missing?
  16. Rottandan

    Parker 51 Pencil Reassembly

    Hello guys , I have recently playing around with a new parker 51 pencil that I received (rotary) , and I can't for the life of me get it back together and working properly. The pieces to the puzzle that I have are a small gold ring , a metal washher-like piece , a small spring , the mechanism , and the rubber section for the back . As well as the body of course. Could anyone give me some guidence in to how to reassemble the pencil properly please? Thanks
  17. I finally got my 51(yay!) However, the pen was damaged during transist and there was a deep scratch on barrel which I removed using 1500 grit wet sand paper (read from a forum here) and now I have to remove microscratches from barrel and small scratch|es on cap.Can simichrome be used? And from where can I find replacements (s.s or lustraloy) caps? Thanks
  18. Hi! Straight to the point: what pump-filler pens do you know of? I know of Edison's Pump-Filler but the price is more than what I can afford ($350 for a steel nib and $450 for the gold nib besides international shipping...) so I'm looking at a "51" Vac which is about a fifth of the price. Do you guys have any other suggestions at this lower price point? I'm also aware of the Pilot 823 and TWSBI Vac700 which have a plunger of some sort. Open to those kinds too that are not variations of a lever filler. Thanks!
  19. I think some of you are aware of my quest to find my first 14k gold - nibbed pen. I have boiled down to two choices: the 2000 or 51. My intentions are to: - Have a purdy pen. - A good suit pen - A writer's pen - A fine nib - An EDC pen. - It needs to also be durable. ("Drawing" done by a green Wearever Pennant - Ink is Noodler's Polar Eel Black) Thanks in Advance, Al.
  20. When I disassemble Parker "51" aerometric pens, I find two kinds of breather tubes. Sometimes, the tube is metal (silver or stainless steel). The tube is pretty long, going pretty far into the sac, and there is a tiny little hole in the side of the tube, close to where it enters the feed. The other kind is a short, plastic tube, which makes a little "comma" shape as it comes out the back of the feed. These do not have the tiny little hole in the side. So, I was wondering two questions, which I was hoping someone more knowledgeable than I am about the "51" could answer. I gather from the vintagepens.com site that these two kinds of breather tube are specific to the feed. On the page listing parts for sale, the entry for the Teflon tubing describes the tubing as being for "later 51s with plastic breather tubes." Does this mean that you cannot use metal breathing tubes with these later "51" models? If so, which ones? Because I have seen plastic tubes in Mark I pens. But maybe these were refurbs -- I don't know. It seems to me that the plastic breathing tube is inferior, for two reasons. First, whenever I see it used in a "51," the tubing is always significantly shorter than the metal breathing tube -- it doesn't go as far back into the sac as the metal tube. This would limit the fill capacity of the pen by a lot, it seems to me -- after you have ink in the sac up to the level of the tube-end, further pressing on the squeeze bar would just push ink in and out of the sac. It's the cascading/fountaining over the end of the tube that implements the one-way "rectifier" effect that fills the pen. I suppose you could cut the tubes longer, but they aren't very straight, and perhaps they would curve over and impinge on the side of the sac? I am theorising here; what I observe is that the plastic tubes are short. Second, these tubes don't have the tiny little air hole in the side of the tube. But this is what makes an "aerometric filler" aerometric! It's the little inovation that lets sea-level air bleed out of a nib-up pen when cabin pressure on an airplane drops. So… what the heck? Did Parker just decide at some point to stop making their aerometric pens aerometric? OK, as long as I'm asking questions, here's one more for the "51" historians: why silver? Why did Parker make the breathing tubes out of silver instead of stainless steel or some cheaper material? I mean, sure, the silver tubes are prettier, but somehow I don't think that was the reason…E. K.
  21. I need to replace the hood on a "51." I prefer to use hoods that work with o-rings: I don't have to screw them down hard (stressing the plastic) or use shellac to seal them against leaks. I have the option of buying a shell with a fully-recessed indent for the o-ring, or a half-recessed indent. I have no idea what the trade-offs are here. Could someone clue me in? The half-recessed shells look a little more robust around the lip, for obvious reasons. But I am no expert. Do they completely hide the o-ring? How do the two kinds of shell work out? E. K.
  22. lyonlover

    Tipping Material?

    I'm still learning about fountain pens (even two years into the hobby), and I wondered about this picture. The tipping seems to be a bit meager on this Parker 51. From advertising pictures and from most pictures I find online, Parker 51s generally come with nice round ball-shaped tipping. What do you guys think? Does this nib look normal?
  23. Hi Everyone Recently my Mom gave me her USA made Parker 51 Aerometric fountain and Jotter ballpoint pen set with 270-M case. It was given to her new as a gift by my Dad before they were married in 1956. He had purchased it while serving in the USAF in England. I recall the fountain pen from my youth but it hasn't worked for as long as I can remember. When I got the set last week, I immediately started learning about the fountain pen. Soon found it was an standard Aerometric pen in Burgundy. While the pen is not dated, it was likely produced in 1955/56 since the Jotter ballpoint was introduced in 1955 (or so I understand, some sources say 1954 for the Jotter). The 12k gold filled cap is in good shape with no dents or major scratches and has the "Made in USA" impression. Unfortunately the pen was found in two pieces. Someone had apparently gotten too aggressive taking the barrel off. The section (or connector/coupler) was broken at the hood opening. Dried ink had clogged most of the pen including the barrel threads. After a lot of reading and watching YouTube videos, I was able to get it disassembled with water and cleaned up. The gold nib and other parts are in great condition. The stainless steel sac cage states "press 4 times". Getting the remaining piece of section out of the hood was a challenge. I used hot water to heat up the hood treads and pressed the point of a pick partially into the broken end. It took a few cycles and some patience but I was able to get the piece to back out without damage to the hood or feeder. Can't say this technique is good all the time but it did work. An O-ring came out with the section piece and the hood has the recess for the O-ring. The plastic feeder tube measures about 31 mm from where it enters the feeder. Hopefully I'll find a replacement section from a parts pen or other source. It looks exactly like the sold out part on David Nishimura web site. Mine measures 29mm without the sac and has 5 fine threads on the feeder end and 6 fine threads on the sac end. http://www.vintagepens.com/images/cat/parts/6704.jpg Looking to have some fun and own a few more of these great writing instruments. Cheers Rich
  24. Aeliascent

    Are Blue Diamond P-51S Worth More?

    I plan to never sell my Parker 51, nor purchase another for that matter, but I've been wondering how much it's worth. Are blue diamond Parker 51s worth more than later ones without the blue diamond. Correct me if I'm wrong, but most P51 Vacumatics have the blue diamond. The cap is gold filled, with a tiny, almost unperceivable dent, and the pen is completely restored. All the parts were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner, and the diaphragm is new. All other parts are original. It's from the 4th Quarter of 1945. Thanks guys!!
  25. Hi everyone, this is my first post. So I just recieved a Parker 51 that I'm in thenprocess of restoring. The first thing I did was to make it fulky functional, and now it works great. However, there is a gauge in the seam between the barrel and the blind cap. It's not that deep, and it blends in but it still bugs me. Anyone have any ideas on how I can fix it? Preferably using common household items? Would black nail polish, then a layer of car wax work? Thanks folks! This is my first vintage pen and I love it! It's almost sentient compared to my Lamy 2000.





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