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Mac or PC? If on a Mac, you at least have ColorSync and the ability to do a rough monitor calibration with ease. It CAN be done with a PC, but requires a couple hundred dollars worth of equipment and software. I would suggest the following to make your life easier (without actually calibrating your scanner and monitor) -- get a photo gray scale and color patch, as used by one of the other ink reviewers (name, alas, forgotten -- many thanks anyway, you know who you are!) and scan that along with the ink samples. You can then, using Photoshop or some other fully capable photo program, use the gray and color patches to adjust the scan so that white, black, gray, magenta, cyan, and yellow are correct. You will also probably have to use the Hue and Saturation controls in you software to adjust the saturation, scanners almost always get it wrong unless they have been calibrated with an IT8 target. This will adjust the colors of the inks to as close as you can get given the limitations of your scanner. Some variations will NOT show up because the scanner isn't sensitive to them (many people see much farther into the near UV than your scanner does, for instance), but it will be much closer to what you see. For the most accurate results, you really need to get an IT8 target and use some good software to calibrate your scanner to reproduce accurate colors. There are inexpensive ones out there ($35 or so for the target, ditto for VueScan software from Hamrick Software, I highly recommend that for critical work) if you really feel the need. The interface on VueScan is a bit cranky compared to commerical software, but it's the product of one guy working at home, and I use it for all my scanning work. Color reproduction is a real hassle, so I definitely appreciate the time and effort you are putting into this!

These scans don't look quite color accurate to my eyes, but my eyes are defective and I don't know how to color calibrate/correct scans. The Rouge Caroubier looks about right, but the Skrip Permanent Red looks darker and not quite right. I don't know; looking at the full size scan at full resolution it seems about right. Might just be my monitor and background lighting right now. Anyway, FWIW, click to get full 600dpi scan: http://imageshack.us/a/img826/6681/vintageskripred600w.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img824/9046/redvsrougecaroubier600w.jpg

ok, my first iron gall ink. please calibrate for your monitor. these are properly white balanced and the color is just as i see it. Page 1 Page 2 overall, i can dig it. love the permanence and lack of bad behavior on paper. just need to be meticulous about cleaning the pens. seems to really like wet pens too. as you can see, it needed time to warm up to my vac700 and we got alot of nice shading near the end. i may just have to get a bottle. -p 3/7/2013 addendum: acetone washes the pigment out, and hydrogen peroxide almost annihilates the iron portion so that only a bit of transparent yellow is on the page.

Hi, This comparison was invoked by the curiosity, (aka 'the perceived need'), of Member Phormio Post № 14 Although these inks are quite different, they do have some similarities which encouraged me to go beyond a sideXside swab comparison - I even inked a pen! Alas, replication of another iroshizuku evades us. If one chooses to extend their comparison, I encourage you to peruse the numerous Ink Review Forum entries for these inks. I have posted Reviews of each, so one can read across points for those Topics - no point inducing coma by repeating that here. As ever, I shall leave it to fellow Members to set course for other items of interest. ~♡~ ☞ For convenient viewing of the images, you may wish to scroll to the menu at the very bottom of this window to ensure the FPN Theme is http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/ecb8726d-1.jpg. Please take a moment to adjust your gear to accurately depict the Grey Scale below. As the patches are neutral grey, that is what you should see. Mac http://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-Your-Monitor Wintel PC http://www.calibrize.com/Grey Scale. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/b4a04182.jpg ~♥~ Swabs With the intention of emphasising comparison of colour rather than tone, I have taken my typical swabs of 3, 2, 1 passes and off-set them by one pass. L: Pa R:ABl http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Comparison%20-%20Pilot%20ajisai%20-%20Aurora%20Blue/89af89b6.jpghttp://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Comparison%20-%20Pilot%20ajisai%20-%20Aurora%20Blue/75284e48.jpg Written Samples - Moby Dick. Ruling: 8mm L: Pa. R: ABl. Paper: HPJ1124. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Comparison%20-%20Pilot%20ajisai%20-%20Aurora%20Blue/6117a49a.jpg Paper: Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Comparison%20-%20Pilot%20ajisai%20-%20Aurora%20Blue/5499c2ec.jpg _ _ _ _ Prior Topics: Pa: Ink Review LINKWritten Sample LINKABl: Ink Review LINK====== NUTS & BOLTS Pen: Pilot Somiko + TiAu-plated steel B nib.Papers: HPJ1124 Laser Copy 24lb.Rhodia.Imaging An Epson V600 scanner was used with the bundled Epson s/w at factory default settings to produce jpg files. Figures shown were scanned at 200 dpi & 24 bit colour. No post-capture manipulation of scanner output was done, other than dumb-down by Epson, Photobucket & IP.Board s/w.Fine Print The accuracy and relevance of this Review depends in great part upon consistency and reliability of materiel used. Ink does not require labelling/notice to indicate (changes in) formulation, non-hazardous ingredients, batch ID, date of manufacture, etc. As always, YMMV, not only from materials, methods, environment, etc., but also due to differences between the stuff I used, and that you may have; and manner of working. Also, I entrust readers to separate opinion from fact; to evaluate inferences and conclusions as to their merit; and to be amused by whatever tickles your fancy. -30- Tags: Fountain Pen Ink Comparison Review Pilot iroshizuku ajisai hydrangea Aurora Blue Sandy1

Please take a moment to adjust the brightness & contrast of your monitor to accurately depict the following Gray Scale. As the patches are neutral gray, their colour on your monitor should also be neutral gray. Mac http://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-Your-MonitorWintel PC http://www.calibrize.com/Figure 1. Gray Scale. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/INK576-1.jpg Figure 2. Swabs http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Herbin%20EdS%20TO%20MBRB/4c3a195b.jpg Herbin Eclat de Saphir x3Montblanc Royal Blue x3 Herbin Eclat de Saphir x2Montblanc Royal Blue x2Herbin Eclat de Saphir x1Montblanc Royal Blue x1Figure 3. Other Stuff http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Herbin%20EdS%20TO%20MBRB/4ea99773.jpg Left Side: Herbin Eclat de SaphirRight Side: Montblanc Royal BlueWritten Samples - Moby Dick Figure 4. Written Samples on Rhodia http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Herbin%20EdS%20TO%20MBRB/ade5042b.jpg Left Side. Herbin Eclat de Saphir: Nine lines from the M200+EF; then ten lines from the 330+M; then ten lines from the Safari+1.1i .Right Side. Montblanc Royal Blue: Nine lines from the M200+EF; then ten lines from the 330+M; then ten lines from the Safari+1.1i .Figure 5. Written Samples on HPJ1124 http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Herbin%20EdS%20TO%20MBRB/44d22b2f.jpg 1st Line: Herbin Eclat de Saphir from the 330+M2nd Line: Montblanc Royal Blue from the 330+M3rd Line: Herbin Eclat de Saphir from the Safari+1.1i4th Line: Montblanc Royal Blue from the Safari+1.1i High Resolution Scans As I do not wish to have the sobriquet 'Queen of the Bandwidth Bandits', these are Links only. Herbin Eclat de Saphir from 330+M on Rhodia. My linkMontblanc Royal Blue from 330+M on Rhodia. My linkHerbin Eclat de Saphir from Safari+1.1i on Rhodia. My linkMontblanc Royal Blue from Safari+1.1i on Rhodia. My linkHerbin Eclat de Saphir and Montblanc Royal Blue from 330+M on HPJ1124. My link Herbin Eclat de Saphir and Montblanc Royal Blue from Safari+1.1i on HPJ1124. My linkObservations: These are the things which are not apparent from the Images.These observations may differ ever so slightly from the Ink Review/s that may be in place.My contribution was to generate enough reasonable samples, then capture the appearance of those samples.If you'd like more detailed information, please send me a PM; I'll do what I can. (Within reason - you naughty FPN boys).I leave it to each viewer to interpret what is seen, and/or to initiate discussion in the usual way.Type: Both are dye-based FP inks.Flow Rate: Both inks have higher than average flow.Nib Dry-out: Both inks are OK.Start-up: Both inks are OK.Lubrication: Eclat de Saphir has a bare minimum.MB Royal Blue has significantly greater lubrication.Nib Creeping: None for both inks.Staining: None after 3 days for both inks.Clogging: Not seen for both inks.Bleed Through: None on papers used for both inks.Show Through: None on papers used for both inks.Both sides of the sheet may be used.Clean-up: Both cleaned-up very quickly with plain water.Densitometer Readings - From the Ink Reviews. (FWIW) Herbin Eclat de Saphir:Red 112Grn 125Blu 240Lum 145[*]Montblanc Royal Blue: Red 100Grn 113Blu 220Lum 131 |:|''||''|:|''|.|''|:|''||''|.|''||''|:|''||''|.|''||''|:|''|.|''|:|''||''|:| MATERIEL Paper: Written Samples:RhodiaHPJ1124Glossy card[*]Other: Glossy paperHPJ1124Royal - 25% cotton rag [*]Pens: Pelikan M200 + M200-series g-p steel EFSheaffer 330 + steel MLamy Pink Safari + a rather wet steel 1.1i IMAGES: Scans were made on an Epson V600 scanner; factory defaults were accepted. Figures shown were scanned at 96 dpi & 24 bit colour. Images linked were scanned at 300 dpi & 24 bit colour. Scans went straight to the file sharing thingy. -30-

Really? i'm only seeing a single "scroll-line" around the breather-hole in any of these pictures. Maybe it's time to calibrate my monitor. EDIT: Okay ... the more i look at this and the more i google, the more convinced i am that this is one odd little nib. (And the more confused i am that nobody else thinks it's odd ... and the more i wanna know about which model this came from.) i mean, am i insane, or ... does it really only have one engraving line!? Where's the second one that loops around the hole? And why is it such an odd shape? And ... well, why .... period? Does the nib unscrew and everything like normal?

Noodler's Walnut is a very nice brown -- almost exactly the color of black walnut shell juice, in fact. There is a scanner standard, by the way, it's called an IT8 target and costs a couple hundred bucks in standard form. There are less expensive ones around, printed by fully calibrated printers, but they are still upwards of $30 if I remember correctly. Very handy, as they can be used to actually calibrate a scanner to produce fully accurate scans, within the capability of the scanner. However, it will require a fully calibrated monitor (on both ends) and color matching software to get fully accurate results on a monitor off the web, and even then there may be some "slippage". Peter

I probably need to calibrate my monitor, all the examples show a pinkish purplish hue to the shading.

About color monitor calibration: do you recommand to calibrate at 6400k or 5800k??? I just done both temperature using a spider4pro I borowed to my father. Also what chart do you use as reference?

A few hints to make your scanning easier: If you can find a proper scanning target you can afford, by all means calibrate it, this will greatly reduce the amount of time you spend fixing colors. Always scan a bit of a gray scale with your inks, and use that in Photoshop (or equivalent) to set the correct black and white points. Again, this will automatically fix most color variations. Back up you paper with something opaque so that you don't get light bouncing off the white background of the scanner cover and illuminating the ink from the back side. This is probably what causes the illusion of shading. Black mount board might be just the ticket. Use good scanning software, and make sure you have color correction set properly. This means USING colorsync on the Mac for everything (calibrated scanner, calibrated monitor, software, printer if you print). If you forget to set up the software properly, most amateur packages default to "vivid" -- read over saturated -- color. My Epson printers drive me nuts this way, every time you go to print something it's necessary to turn OFF color correction! As far as I know, you are just out of luck on a PC, there isn't anything like ColorSync, and you have to do everything in Photoshop and hope for the best. Remember that most inks are metachromatic, and scanners use mostly fluorescent bulbs as a light source. These vary all over the map, and I've got one medium format scanner that I had to replace the bulb in with a generic one -- terrible mess until I got it reasonably calibrated, it was very green to start with due to different phosphors in the bulb. What are you gonna do when the manufacturer doesn't make parts anymore? The viewing illumination makes a difference as well. Some Noodler's inks are markedly different in sunlight vs incandescent lamps vs CCFL vs LED. Monitors are additive, scanners and printers are subtractive, monitors are luminescent, ink is always viewed "in person" by reflected light unless you hold a page up to a lamp, so you won't be able to exactly reproduce some colors. Finally, don't beat yourself up too much if you cannot get an ink to scan exactly right. Many inks are really outside the color gamut for scanners and monitors, and will never look quite right on screen, and definitely NOT printed out! Of course, you probably already know all this..... Peter

I would get a Canon for photographic needs but unfortunately it works out too expensive for our daily office needs...so we get an all in one that works out relatively cheap How does one calibrate ones monitor Fabienne? Buzz

I used to tweak myself stupid over scans. Everything had to be perfect and nothing was good enough and lather, rinse, repeat. It worked but what a hassle. Then Mike suggested that I calibrate my monitor. I did that and now I am astounded that the scans are turning out just about spot on the first time. I had calibrated it a while back but I think that now, since I am in FPN and extreme accuracy is encouraged, it is imperative that the scanner be tuned every once in a while and so the scan is ever so much better. I was shocked at my scan of Visconti Purple, it was accurate with no fiddling. My scanner is Canon MX870 and I have to say that it is the berries! I love Canon.

OK, the plot thickens. This MB Black is owned by the very Mr. Fabienne. He has had it since 1990-something SO I am sure it is not the New Mystery Black. It is in a shoe bottle BUT it is not new. The bottle does not even say "Black" on it. He had been keeping it in the sun the whole time. I don't know if this would have any effect on it but it is kept on a desk facing the south and that is the strongest exposure. I am not sure if that would have any effect on the color of ink, but I am bringing it up. I will be sending you a sample of the ink with the sample of the writing when I get your address. BTW, I did go through a good deal of tweaking to get the two scans above and to calibrate the monitor later. I think that the second one is closer to the true colors on the page by far and I do think that there is a definite brown/sepia/yellow cast to the ink on Staples cheap paper.

Hi, Dilution is most appropriate for those who like an ink's colour, but find the density is too high - especially when used with wet pens and/or absorbent papers. Dilution may also be proposed as a low-cost immediate 'fix' for inks that are too wet for a given pen/paper, and to reduce Smear/Dry Times. In the case of this ink, there were also reports that the ink was still smearing / smudging days after writing, when it should have been well and truly 'cured'. So let's crack on . . . -|- ☞ For convenient viewing of the images in all their inky goodness, you may wish to scroll to the menu at the very bottom of this window, then change the FPN Theme to 'IP.Board Mobile'. Please take a moment to adjust your gear to accurately depict the Grey Scale below. As the patches are neutral gray, that is what you should see. Mac http://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-Your-Monitor Wintel PC http://www.calibrize.com/Grey Scale. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/b4a04182.jpg WRITTEN SAMPLES - Moby Dick Ruling: 8mm. Figure 1. Paper: HPJ1124. Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/1976512e.jpg Figure 2. Paper: Rhodia, Blank. Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/d6156f12.jpg Figure 3. Paper: Staples 20 lb. Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/6aeba7d1.jpg Figure 4. Paper: Clairefontaine Triomphe.* Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/fb9905ac.jpg Dip Pen † Figure 5. Paper: Rhodia, Blank. Ink @ 100, 40%. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/e849e309.jpg SMEAR / DRY TIMES: Figure 6. Paper: HPJ1124. Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/87553d27.jpg Figure 7. Paper: Rhodia - Blank. Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/edba4a5d.jpg Figure 8. Paper: Rhodia, Lined. * Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/cfa1776c.jpg Figure 9. Paper: Staples 20 lb. Ink @ 100, 80%. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/d337020a.jpg Figure 10. Paper: Clairefontaine Triomphe. Ink @ 100, 80, 60, 40%. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/b977626b.jpg Dip Pen Figure 11. Paper: Rhodia - Blank. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/242108c0.jpg BLEED- SHOW-THROUGH: Figure 12. Paper: Staples 20 lb. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/FPN_2012/Dilution%20-%20Diamine%20Bilberry/7f79d79d.jpg PERSONAL OBSERVATIONS The writing experience remained acceptable at all dilutions on papers used. Lubricity diminished as dilution increased, so extreme combos of hair-width nibs on textured-beyond-toothy papers may not be all that inviting. As dilution increased, a bit of so-called shading was revealed on the coated papers. The visual effect was to add some lustre, which was welcome to enliven the monotone line, but not at all near the attractive native shading of some other inks. (So sorry.) While there was some minor variation in S/DT when DBil was diluted, my reading of the runes does not suggest a predictable or significant drop. Rather, changing to a drier pen and/or a more absorbent paper is a more predictable and reliable solution to awkwardly long S/DT. (In the Review, I suggested trying a 28 lb. bond rather than using Rhodia; that suggestion stands.) Dilution did not have significant effect on the opacity of the ink: the feint lines on the lined Rhodia were over-written at 40%. On the samples prepared with an FP, when using a tissue-wrapped finger at white knuckle pressure, it was not possible to generate a smudge one minute after writing. Samples from the dip pen on CT and un/lined Rhodia could not be smudged after two minutes. Also, when underlying pencil marks were erased, the ink did not smudge. Unfortunately, dilution did not improve the extent of bleed- show-through on Staples. Then again, did dilution did not cause bleed- show-through on the other papers. Wet Tests were considered a WOMBAT, so were not done. If there is a strong desire for Hi-Res scans of a specific aspect of these samples, please send a PM. As ever, scans are far more likely to be generated than additional inky work. Bye, S1 ______ Notes: RE: S/DT. Being right-handed, I usually do not have a problem with S/DT. Indeed, I was taken aback by the rather long S/DT of some inks I have used for years, without even noticing such a 'problem'. (Same with water resistance.) I am blonde, but no poking the fun, OK? There is no 'standard' for an acceptable S/DT. And any arbitrary number would be rather meaningless due to variables of pen, paper, atmospheric conditions, ad infinitum. All I can say is that I make an effort to be consistent, so results are relative; hence may show trends and relationships.I have chosen to draw the numeral '4' rather than down strokes. I like to think that the varying amount of ink put down in each direction of travel, ↓ ↙ →, and two 'ink pools' that seem to occur at the end of my lines, are more representative of practical use. The '4' was written every five seconds from right to left - a countdown mode if you will - then a clean finger was run over the row with sufficient force to emulate making a soft fold, not a [origami] crease.* This paper was used to indicate significant change between varieties of well known widely used FP friendly paper, and was not used in the Review. † A dip pen nib was used to emulate a very wet FP. = = = = NUTS & BOLTS Pens Samples: FP - Rosetta Magellan + Schmidt g-p steel B nib.DP - The nib was one of a sort preferred by those who choose to sample FP inks with a DP: a Brause (Iserloha) 0.5mm round-point Ornament 500 nib fitted with over-under reservoirs, which I have found equivalent superior in practice to the Leonardt 400 series nibs. Lines & Labels: Visconti Green & Noodler's Lexington from a Pilot Penmanship.R&K Solferino from a Sheaffer Prelude with a Stub hand-ground from a two-tone Fine nib. (Thanks to Sam at Pendemonium!) ______ Papers HPJ1124 24 lb. Laser Copy.Rhodia Blank.Rhodia Lined - S/DT only.Staples 20 lb.Clairefontaine Triomphe.______ Images Scans were made on an Epson V600 scanner; factory defaults were accepted. Full written samples were scanned at 200 dpi & 24 bit colour. If HiRes Images are added, they should be scanned at 300 dpi & 24 bit colour. Scans were not adjusted post-capture, so went straight to photobouquet.______ Densitometer Readings ______ Fine Print The accuracy and relevance of this Topic depends in great part upon consistency and reliability of matériel used. Ink does not require labelling/notice to indicate (changes in) formulation, non-hazardous ingredients, batch ID, date of manufacture, etc. As always, YMMV, not only from materials, methods, environment, etc., but also due to differences between the stuff I used, and that you may have. Also, I entrust readers to separate opinion from fact; to evaluate inferences and conclusions as to their merit; and to be amused by whatever tickles your fancy. -30- Tags: Fountain Pen Ink Comparison Review Dilution Diamine Bilberry Sandy1

Thank you for the replies. I had such idea because I was reading reviews of blue inks here and they are too vibrant on my monitor that they look no where close to how they actually are. I wanted to be able to show calibrated ink scans inside the browser, not requiring the user to download it and tune it in Photoshop or something. Embedding color profiles may not work properly, because web browsers (as far as I know) would use its own default profile. Besides, with the same color profile, there are variations in color on different monitors. The current idea, if works, is very convenient. Users only have to calibrate once, and then all ink scans they see on the webpage would be accurate. So when they order the ink, it would look exactly as how it looks on the monitor. As for fading of bank notes, I do not have such problem with my local currency (Hong Kong dollars). The reason I thought of bank notes is that you don't have to buy it (I was going to say they are freely available but.. well..). I am no expert in colors, so I might have got something wrong. Even though, I would still love to have volunteers. Thanks.

OK, a little discussion here on scans, photos, and browser displays... I'll keep the discussion fairly simple, but there are some depths to each suggestion that we will have to avoid for the moment. 1. Ultimately, if one wants to discern colours in a consistent manner, the scans and/or photos should use a neutral gray card to allow for colour shifts with scans and/or white balance issues in photos. If one wants to be really retentive with this, one should use a colour card, not just a neutral gray card. 2. Internet browsers do not work with a wide or terribly accurate colour gamut. If one wants to be more accurate, download a scan and open it in a photo editor like Photoshop with a defined colour set-up (we're going to gloss over colour spaces like sRGB and Adobe RGB 1998 in the interest of brevity). Downloads will show a sometimes rather different colour set for the viewer. Looking at photos only inside browser systems will eventually (quickly?) lead to frustration. 3. If one's really into the issue of colour, one can calibrate their monitor with an Eye-One or similar calibration device to allow for a more accurate colour cast. There are other efforts required for printing that we won't address here. Depending on the display, this can have subtle or large effects. Those of us who shoot with DSLRs in RAW know just how annoying these issues can be, and even with a mort o' experience, still hit our noses on the glass sometimes. Discerning subtle differences in colour, even with colour cards, WB compensations, and a pile of other tricks is nonetheless going to have some problems. What can we do here on FPN ? Well, if we're really going to get in depth on this, then include at least a gray card in a scan or a photo, provide a defined colour gamut for each shot, then encourage readers to download the image to look within a quality photo editor. Otherwise, we can talk - respectfully and without an intention of unkindness to anyone here or elsewhere on FPN - at cross-purposes in ink comparisons. John P.

Hey guys and gals, I have been working on an article dealing with an easy way to calibrate monitors, including LCD/TFT screens, for some time now, to be published here. And most of the text is done. If you just gimme a few more weeks, we should be fine. I am in the process of making some set-up screens that can be used universally, because the actual pictures for calibration just use your browser, and nothing else. You may need an additional (tiny) piece of free software, but that is about it. And I am trying to get rid of that too. And make it as foolproof as possible. A calibrated monitor of course means it would be independent of the paper used. Of course, under ideal circumstances you need to calibrate your scanner and printer as well, but for now this will have to do, as it is a spare time activity, besides being present here on FPN . And a grey card, of course, is a great thing to use for calibration of middle grey! HTH, warm regards, Wim

Call me crazy but I like that color. Sort of a gray denim. heh. maybe we're the ones with the color perception problem. I see blue - albeit very subtle. I do keep my monitor calibrated but of course, that's calibrated to the best of what *I* can perceive on the screen when I calibrate it! It's grey but has a blue cast which makes it, as you said, a sort of denim. Bah! Still, I used it in wet pens and got something in between what stefan posted and Sam's scan. And serious shading which is one of the reasons I liked it so much. In fact, I started using PBB because I saw it in the handwriting of a person experienced with a vintage flex nib. Yowza! After all that prattle, the color I am seeing in Stefan's scan is true to what I would expect of PBB in a dry writer, however. I just wouldn't call it a pure gray.

Please take a moment to adjust your gear to accurately depict this Gray Scale. As the patches are neutral gray, that is what should be seen. Mac http://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-Your-Monitor Wintel PC http://www.calibrize.com/Figure 1. Gray Scale. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/INK576-1.jpg Figure 2. Swabs http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Visconti%20Blue%20TO%20Waterman%20Florida%20Blu/315f7a23.jpg Visconti Blue x3Waterman Florida Blue x3 Visconti Blue x2Waterman Florida Blue x2Visconti Blue x1Waterman Florida Blue x1Figure 3. Other Stuff http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Visconti%20Blue%20TO%20Waterman%20Florida%20Blu/398e7f9d.jpg Left Side: Visconti BlueRight Side: Waterman Florida BlueWritten Samples - Moby Dick Figure 4. Written Samples on Rhodia http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Visconti%20Blue%20TO%20Waterman%20Florida%20Blu/6ded4ba7.jpg Left Side. Visconti Blue: Nine lines from the M200+EF; then ten lines from the 330+M; then ten lines from the Safari+1.1i .Right Side. Waterman Florida Blue: Nine lines from the M200+EF; then ten lines from the 330+M; then ten lines from the Safari+1.1i .Figure 5. Written Samples on HPJ1124 http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Visconti%20Blue%20TO%20Waterman%20Florida%20Blu/3cc343fc.jpg 1st Line: Visconti Blue from the 330+M 2nd Line: Waterman Florida Blue from the 330+M 3rd Line: Visconti Blue from the Safari+1.1i 4th Line: Waterman Florida Blue from the Safari+1.1i High Resolution Scans As I do not wish to have the sobriquet 'Queen of The Bandwidth Bandits', these are Links only. Visconti Blue from 330+M on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Visconti%20Blue%20TO%20Waterman%20Florida%20Blu/c7bb06a8.jpgWaterman Florida Blue from 330+M on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Visconti%20Blue%20TO%20Waterman%20Florida%20Blu/0011e4f5.jpgVisconti Blue from Safari+1.1i on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Visconti%20Blue%20TO%20Waterman%20Florida%20Blu/48ace375.jpgWaterman Florida Blue from Safari+1.1i on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Visconti%20Blue%20TO%20Waterman%20Florida%20Blu/fb31a263.jpgVisconti Blue and Waterman Florida Blue from 330+M on HPJ1124. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Visconti%20Blue%20TO%20Waterman%20Florida%20Blu/c56383f1.jpgVisconti Blue and Waterman Florida Blue from Safari+1.1i on HPJ1124. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Visconti%20Blue%20TO%20Waterman%20Florida%20Blu/cae0eaf3.jpgObservations: These are the things which are not apparent from the Images.These observations may differ ever so slightly from the Ink Review/s that may be in place.My contribution was to generate enough reasonable samples, then capture the appearance of those samples.If you'd like more detailed information, please send me a PM; I'll do what I can. (Within reason - you naughty FPN boys).I leave it to each viewer to interpret what is seen, and/or to initiate discussion in the usual way.Type: Both are dye-based FP inks.Flow Rate: Both inks are OK.Visconti greater.Nib Dry-out: Both inks are OK.Start-up: Both inks are OK.Lubrication: Both inks are OK.Visconti is greater.Nib Creeping: None for both inks.Staining: None after 3 days for both inks.Clogging: Not seen for both inks.Bleed Through: None on papers used for both inks.Show Through: None on papers used for both inks.Both sides of the sheet may be used.Clean-up: Both cleaned-up thoroughly with plain water.WFB was much faster.Densitometer Readings - from the Ink Reviews. (FWIW) Visconti Blue:Red 72Grn 95Blu 206Lum 112[*]Waterman Florida Blue: Red 109Grn 129Blu 225Lum 144 |.|''|'|"|:|''||''|.|''||''|.|''||''|:|''||''|.|''||''|.|''||''|:|"|'|''|.| MATERIEL Paper: Written Samples:RhodiaHPJ1124Glossy card[*]Other: Glossy paperHPJ1124Royal - 25% cotton rag Pens: Pelikan M200 + M200-series g-p steel EFSheaffer 330 + steel MLamy Pink Safari + a rather wet steel 1.1iIMAGES: Scans were made on an Epson V600 scanner; factory defaults were accepted.Figures shown were scanned at 96 dpi & 24 bit colour.Images linked were scanned at 300 dpi & 24 bit colour.Scans went straight to the file sharing thingy._____________________________ Fine Print: The accuracy and relevance of this Comparison depends in great part upon consistency and reliability of materiél used. Ink does not require labelling/notice to indicate (changes in) formulation, non-hazardous ingredients, batch ID, date of manufacture, etc. As always, YMMV, not only from materials, methods, environment, etc., but also due to differences between the stuff in the bottles I used, and that in bottle/s you may have. Also, I entrust readers to separate opinion from fact; and to evaluate inferences and conclusions as to their merit. -30-

Please take a moment to adjust your gear to accurately depict this Gray Scale. As the patches are neutral gray, you should see that on your monitor. Mac http://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-Your-MonitorWintel PC http://www.calibrize.com/Figure 1. Gray Scale. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/INK576-1.jpg Figure 2. Swabs http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottoman%20Azur%20TO%20Waterman%20FB/4da6628f.jpg Noodler's Ottoman Azure x3Waterman Florida Blue x3 Noodler's Ottoman Azure x2Waterman Florida Blue x2Noodler's Ottoman Azure x1Waterman Florida Blue x1Figure 3. Other Stuff http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottoman%20Azur%20TO%20Waterman%20FB/c1e1ccc0.jpg Left Side: Noodler's Ottoman AzureRight Side: Waterman Florida BlueWritten Samples - Moby Dick Figure 4. Written Samples on Rhodia http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottoman%20Azur%20TO%20Waterman%20FB/1afd6234.jpg Left Side. Noodler's Ottoman Azure: Nine lines from the M200+EF; then ten lines from the 330+M; then ten lines from the Safari+1.1i .Right Side. Waterman Florida Blue: Nine lines from the M200+EF; then ten lines from the 330+M; then ten lines from the Safari+1.1i .Figure 5. Written Samples on HPJ1124 http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottoman%20Azur%20TO%20Waterman%20FB/f3de4b7d.jpg 1st Line: Noodler's Ottoman Azure from the 330+M2nd Line: Waterman Florida Blue from the 330+M3rd Line: Noodler's Ottoman Azure from the Safari+1.1i4th Line: Waterman Florida Blue from the Safari+1.1iHigh Resolution Scans As I do not wish to have the sobriquet 'Queen of the Bandwidth Bandits', these are Links only. Noodler's Ottoman Azure from 330+M on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottoman%20Azur%20TO%20Waterman%20FB/856502ea.jpgWaterman Florida Blue from 330+M on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottoman%20Azur%20TO%20Waterman%20FB/5679ef18.jpgNoodler's Ottoman Azure from Safari+1.1i on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottoman%20Azur%20TO%20Waterman%20FB/665fb922.jpgWaterman Florida Blue from Safari+1.1i on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottoman%20Azur%20TO%20Waterman%20FB/c731f6ea.jpgNoodler's Ottoman Azure and Waterman Florida Blue from 330+M on HPJ1124. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottoman%20Azur%20TO%20Waterman%20FB/8f137594.jpgNoodler's Ottoman Azure and Waterman Florida Blue from Safari+1.1i on HPJ1124. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottoman%20Azur%20TO%20Waterman%20FB/eaddfeca.jpgObservations: These are the things which are not apparent from the Images.These observations may differ ever so slightly from the Ink Review/s that may be in place.My contribution was to generate enough reasonable samples, then capture the appearance of those samples.If you'd like more detailed information, please send me a PM; I'll do what I can. (Within reason - you naughty FPN boys).I leave it to each viewer to interpret what is seen, and/or to initiate discussion in the usual way.Type: Both are dye-based FP inks.Flow Rate: Both inks are OK.Noodler's is greater.Nib Dry-out: Both inks are OK.Start-up: Both inks are OK.Lubrication: Both inks are OK.Nib Creeping: None for both inks.Staining: None after 3 days for both inks.Clogging: Not seen for both inks.Bleed Through: None on papers used for both inks.Show Through: None on papers used for both inks.Both sides of the sheet may be used.Clean-up: Both cleaned-up thoroughly with plain water.WFB was much faster.Densitometer Readings - from the Ink Reviews. (FWIW) Noodler's Ottoman Azure:Red 65Grn 105Blu 183Lum 113[*]Waterman Florida Blue: Red 109Grn 129Blu 225Lum 144 |.|''||'|:|''||''|.|''||''|.|''||''|:|''||''|.|''||''|.|''||''|:|'||''|.| MATERIEL Paper: Written Samples:RhodiaHPJ1124Glossy card[*]Other: Glossy paperHPJ1124Royal - 25% cotton rag Pens: Pelikan M200 + M200-series g-p steel EFSheaffer 330 + steel MLamy Pink Safari + a rather wet steel 1.1iIMAGES: Scans were made on an Epson V600 scanner; factory defaults were accepted.Figures shown were scanned at 96 dpi & 24 bit colour.Images linked were scanned at 300 dpi & 24 bit colour.Scans went straight to the file sharing thingy._____________________________ Fine Print: The accuracy and relevance of this Comparison depends in great part upon consistency and reliability of materiél used. Ink does not require labelling/notice to indicate (changes in) formulation, non-hazardous ingredients, batch ID, date of manufacture, etc. As always, YMMV, not only from materials, methods, environment, etc., but also due to differences between the stuff in the bottles I used, and that in bottle/s you may have. Also, I entrust readers to separate opinion from fact; and to evaluate inferences and conclusions as to their merit. -30-

First, you must realize that Hue is a location on a color wheel, in the degrees from an arbitrary location. Second, you MUST be using a color calibrated monitor WITH a correctly color calibrated display program. This is fairly simple with a Macintosh, nearly impossible with a PC, and to do it right you REALLY need an external calibration device to read the color and luminosity of the display. LCD displays are sometimes nearly impossible to calibrate, too, as the video driver cannot vary the base point for each color intesity, nor the illumination output curve vs signal. To top it all off, ink color is reflective and display color is illumination -- the two don't always (some people, including me, would say never) match exactly. All ink dyes have a specific and unique absorbance spectrum, and it quite impossible to duplicate that spectrum exactly by combinations of blue, red, and green phosphors or filters. Add in the color of the LCD backlight, and it gets even more murky. This is true of color transparency films, too, if you remember those. Blue morning glories almost always turn out purple on film, no matter what you do! Lightness, chroma, and hue values are great for comparison, and to someone with a trained eye and the necessary genetics. very descriptive of a particular ink. A computer generated color spot on your monitor may not actually represent what the ink looks like on paper. Peter

Please take a moment to adjust your gear to accurately depict this Gray Scale. As the patches are neutral gray, their colour on your monitor should also be neutral gray. Mac http://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-Your-MonitorWintel PC http://www.calibrize.com/Figure 1. Gray Scale. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/INK576-1.jpg Figure 2. Swabs http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottaman%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial/9db9fe18.jpg Diamine Imperial Blue x3Noodler's Ottoman Azure x3 Diamine Imperial Blue x2Noodler's Ottoman Azure x2Diamine Imperial Blue x1Noodler's Ottoman Azure x1Figure 3. Other Stuff http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottaman%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial/93ce2df7.jpg Left Side: Diamine Imperial BlueRight Side: Noodler's Ottoman AzureWritten Samples - Moby Dick Figure 4. Written Samples on Rhodia http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottaman%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial/314e1ed8.jpg Left Side. Diamine Imperial Blue: Nine lines from the M200+EF; then ten lines from the 330+M; then ten lines from the Safari+1.1i .Right Side. Noodler's Ottoman Azure: Nine lines from the M200+EF; then ten lines from the 330+M; then ten lines from the Safari+1.1i .Figure 5. Written Samples on HPJ1124 http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottaman%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial/cd0edd1a.jpg 1st Line: Diamine Imperial Blue from the 330+M2nd Line: Noodler's Ottoman Azure from the 330+M3rd Line: Diamine Imperial Blue from the Safari+1.1i4th Line: Noodler's Ottoman Azure from the Safari+1.1iHigh Resolution Scans As I do not wish to have the sobriquet 'Queen of the Bandwidth Bandits', these are Links only. Diamine Imperial Blue from 330+M on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottaman%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial/8382ad77.jpgNoodler's Ottoman Azure from 330+M on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottaman%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial/e6a01dcb.jpgDiamine Imperial Blue from Safari+1.1i on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottaman%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial/73a4d0f4.jpgNoodler's Ottoman Azure from Safari+1.1i on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottaman%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial/5530cc6c.jpgDiamine Imperial Blue and Noodler's Ottoman Azure from 330+M on HPJ1124. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottaman%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial/d379e41f.jpgDiamine Imperial Blue and Noodler's Ottoman Azure from Safari+1.1i on HPJ1124. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20Noodlers%20Ottaman%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial/404770b5.jpgObservations: These are the things which are not apparent from the Images.These observations may differ ever so slightly from the Ink Review/s that may be in place.My contribution was to generate enough reasonable samples, then capture the appearance of those samples.If you'd like more detailed information, please send me a PM; I'll do what I can. (Within reason - you naughty FPN boys).I leave it to each viewer to interpret what is seen, and/or to initiate discussion in the usual way.Type: Both are dye-based FP inks.Flow Rate: Both inks are OK.Diamine Imperial Blue is a bit on the dry side.Noodler's Ottoman Azure is slightly greater than average.Nib Dry-out: Both inks are OK.Start-up: Both inks are OK.Lubrication: Both inks are OK.Diamine Imperial Blue is slightly greater.Nib Creeping: None for both inks.Staining: None after 3 days for both inks.Clogging: Not seen for both inks.Bleed Through: Not seen for both inks on papers used.Show Through: Diamine Imperial Blue did show through on the HPJ1124. Clean-up: Diamine Imperial Blue was slower than most.Noodler's Ottoman Azure was faster than most.Both cleaned-up thoroughly with plain water.Densitometer Readings - From the Ink Reviews. (FWIW) Diamine Imperial Blue:Red 100Grn 107Blu 209Lum 124[*]Noodler's Ottoman Azure: Red 65Grn 105Blu 183Lum 113 |:|''||''|:|''||''|:|''||''|.|''||''|'|''||''|.|''||''|:|''||''|:|''||''|:| MATERIEL Paper: Written Samples:RhodiaHPJ1124Glossy card[*]Other: Glossy paperHPJ1124Royal - 25% cotton rag Pens: Pelikan M200 + M200-series g-p steel EFSheaffer 330 + steel MLamy Pink Safari + a rather wet steel 1.1iIMAGES: Scans were made on an Epson V600 scanner; factory defaults were accepted.Figures shown were scanned at 96 dpi & 24 bit colour.Images linked were scanned at 300 dpi & 24 bit colour.Scans went straight to the file sharing thingy. -30-

Please take a moment to adjust your gear to accurately depict this Gray Scale. As the patches are neutral gray, their colour on your monitor should also be neutral gray. Mac http://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-Your-MonitorWintel PC http://www.calibrize.com/Figure 1. Gray Scale. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/INK576-1.jpg Figure 2. Swabs http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PRAB%20%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blue/778346b0.jpg Private Reserve American Blue x3Diamine Imperial Blue x3 Private Reserve American Blue x2Diamine Imperial Blue x2Private Reserve American Blue x1Diamine Imperial Blue x1Figure 3. Other Stuff http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PRAB%20%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blue/ea56705b.jpg Left Side: Private Reserve American BlueRight Side: Diamine Imperial BlueWritten Samples - Moby Dick Figure 4. Written Samples on Rhodia http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PRAB%20%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blue/4649aa3c.jpg Left Side. Private Reserve American Blue: Nine lines from the M200+EF; then ten lines from the 330+M; then ten lines from the Safari+1.1i .Right Side. Diamine Imperial Blue: Nine lines from the M200+EF; then ten lines from the 330+M; then ten lines from the Safari+1.1i .Figure 5. Written Samples on HPJ1124 http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PRAB%20%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blue/d83c538a.jpg 1st Line: Private Reserve American Blue from the 330+M 2nd Line: Diamine Imperial Blue from the 330+M 3rd Line: Private Reserve American Blue from the Safari+1.1i 4th Line: Diamine Imperial Blue from the Safari+1.1iHigh Resolution Scans As I do not wish to have the sobriquet 'Queen of the Bandwidth Bandits', these are Links only. Private Reserve American Blue from 330+M on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PRAB%20%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blue/3289310b.jpgDiamine Imperial Blue from 330+M on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PRAB%20%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blue/7543049b.jpgPrivate Reserve American Blue from Safari+1.1i on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PRAB%20%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blue/35892adf.jpgDiamine Imperial Blue from Safari+1.1i on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PRAB%20%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blue/5c0503e3.jpgPrivate Reserve American Blue and Diamine Imperial Blue from 330+M on HPJ1124. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PRAB%20%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blue/6e8b745b.jpgPrivate Reserve American Blue and Diamine Imperial Blue from Safari+1.1i on HPJ1124. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PRAB%20%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blue/565da8e5.jpgObservations: These are the things which are not apparent from the Images.These observations may differ ever so slightly from the Ink Review/s that may be in place.My contribution was to generate enough reasonable samples, then capture the appearance of those samples.If you'd like more detailed information, please send me a PM; I'll do what I can. (Within reason - you naughty FPN boys).I leave it to each viewer to interpret what is seen, and/or to initiate discussion in the usual way.Type: Both are dye-based FP inks.Flow Rate: Both inks are OK.Private Reserve American Blue is greater than average.Diamine Imperial Blue is a bit on the dry side.Nib Dry-out: Both inks are OK.Start-up: Both inks are OK.Lubrication: Both inks have high lubrication.Nib Creeping: None for both inks.Staining: None after 3 days for both inks.Clogging: Not seen for both inks.I suggest not becoming slack on pen hygiene when using PRAB.Bleed Through: Private Reserve American Blue showed none. Diamine Imperial Blue did bleed through HPJ1124.Show Through: Private Reserve American Blue showed none. Diamine Imperial Blue did bleed through HPJ1124.Clean-up: Both are slow.Both cleaned-up with plain water.Densitometer Readings - From the Ink Reviews. (FWIW) Private Reserve American Blue:Red 67Grn 91Blu 193Lum 106[*]Diamine Imperial Blue: Red 100Grn 107Blu 209Lum 124 |:|''||''|:|''||''|:|''||''|.|''||''|'|''||''|.|''||''|:|''||''|:|''||''|:| MATERIEL Paper: Written Samples:RhodiaHPJ1124Glossy card[*]Other: Glossy paperHPJ1124Royal - 25% cotton rag Pens: Pelikan M200 + M200-series g-p steel EFSheaffer 330 + steel MLamy Pink Safari + a rather wet steel 1.1iIMAGES: Scans were made on an Epson V600 scanner; factory defaults were accepted.Figures shown were scanned at 96 dpi & 24 bit colour.Images linked were scanned at 300 dpi & 24 bit colour.Scans went straight to the file sharing thingy. -30-

Please take a moment to adjust your gear to accurately depict this Gray Scale. As the patches are neutral gray, their colour on your monitor should also be neutral gray. Mac http://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-Your-MonitorWintel PC http://www.calibrize.com/Figure 1. Gray Scale. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/INK576-1.jpg Figure 2. Swabs http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20MB%20Royal%20Blue%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blu/badf83ce.jpg Montblanc Royal Blue x3Diamine Imperial Blue x3 Montblanc Royal Blue x2Diamine Imperial Blue x2Montblanc Royal Blue x1Diamine Imperial Blue x1Figure 3. Other Stuff http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20MB%20Royal%20Blue%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blu/44f58ec6.jpg Left Side: Montblanc Royal BlueRight Side: Diamine Imperial BlueWritten Samples - Moby Dick Figure 4. Written Samples on Rhodia http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20MB%20Royal%20Blue%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blu/4b74db3f.jpg Left Side. Montblanc Royal Blue: Nine lines from the M200+EF; then ten lines from the 330+M; then ten lines from the Safari+1.1i .Right Side. Diamine Imperial Blue: Nine lines from the M200+EF; then ten lines from the 330+M; then ten lines from the Safari+1.1i .Figure 5. Written Samples on HPJ1124 http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20MB%20Royal%20Blue%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blu/cc1d6631.jpg 1st Line: Montblanc Royal Blue from the 330+M 2nd Line: Diamine Imperial Blue from the 330+M 3rd Line: Montblanc Royal Blue from the Safari+1.1i 4th Line: Diamine Imperial Blue from the Safari+1.1iHigh Resolution Scans As I do not wish to have the sobriquet 'Queen of the Bandwidth Banditos', these are Links only. Montblanc Royal Blue from 330+M on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20MB%20Royal%20Blue%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blu/0d50a810.jpgDiamine Imperial Blue from 330+M on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20MB%20Royal%20Blue%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blu/f1b8e754.jpgMontblanc Royal Blue from Safari+1.1i on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20MB%20Royal%20Blue%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blu/3442faf9.jpgDiamine Imperial Blue from Safari+1.1i on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20MB%20Royal%20Blue%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blu/9b530988.jpgMontblanc Royal Blue and Diamine Imperial Blue from 330+M on HPJ1124. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20MB%20Royal%20Blue%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blu/ebd86056.jpgMontblanc Royal Blue and Diamine Imperial Blue from Safari+1.1i on HPJ1124. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20MB%20Royal%20Blue%20TO%20Diamine%20Imperial%20Blu/332583ae.jpgObservations: These are the things which are not apparent from the Images.These observations may differ ever so slightly from the Ink Review/s that may be in place.My contribution was to generate enough reasonable samples, then capture the appearance of those samples.If you'd like more detailed information, please send me a PM; I'll do what I can. (Within reason - you naughty FPN boys).I leave it to each viewer to interpret what is seen, and/or to initiate discussion in the usual way.Type: Both are dye-based FP inks.Flow Rate: Both inks are OK.Montblanc Royal Blue is greater than average.Diamine Imperial Blue is a bit on the dry side.Nib Dry-out: Both inks are OK.Start-up: Both inks are OK.Lubrication: Both inks have high lubrication.Montblanc Royal Blue has a more appealing feel.Nib Creeping: None for both inks.Staining: None after 3 days for both inks.Clogging: Not seen for both inks.Bleed Through: Montblanc Royal Blue showed none. Diamine Imperial Blue did bleed through HPJ1124.Show Through: Montblanc Royal Blue showed none. Diamine Imperial Blue did bleed through HPJ1124.Clean-up: Montblanc Royal Blue was very quick.Diamine Imperial Blue was slower than most.Both cleaned-up within a reasonable time with plain water.Densitometer Readings - From the Ink Reviews. (FWIW) Montblanc Royal Blue:Red 100Grn 113Blu 220Lum 131[*]Diamine Imperial Blue: Red 100Grn 107Blu 209Lum 124 |:|''||''|:|''||''|:|''||''|.|''||''|'|''||''|.|''||''|:|''||''|:|''||''|:| MATERIEL Paper: Written Samples:RhodiaHPJ1124Glossy card[*]Other: Glossy paperHPJ1124Royal - 25% cotton rag Pens: Pelikan M200 + M200-series g-p steel EFSheaffer 330 + steel MLamy Pink Safari + a rather wet steel 1.1iIMAGES: Scans were made on an Epson V600 scanner; factory defaults were accepted.Figures shown were scanned at 96 dpi & 24 bit colour.Images linked were scanned at 300 dpi & 24 bit colour.Scans went straight to the file sharing thingy. -30-

Please take a moment to adjust your gear to accurately depict this Gray Scale. As the patches are neutral gray, their colour on your monitor should also be neutral gray. Mac http://www.wikihow.com/Calibrate-Your-MonitorWintel PC http://www.calibrize.com/Figure 1. Gray Scale. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/INK576-1.jpg Figure 2. Swabs http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PR%20American%20Blue%20TO%20Noodlers%20Ottoman/8d4a3aac.jpg PR American Blue x3Noodler's Ottoman Azure x3 PR American Blue x2Noodler's Ottoman Azure x2PR American Blue x1Noodlers' Ottoman Azure x1Figure 3. Other Stuff http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PR%20American%20Blue%20TO%20Noodlers%20Ottoman/9113ec6f.jpg Left Side: PR American BlueRight Side: Noodler's Ottoman AzureWritten Samples - Moby Dick Figure 4. Written Samples on Rhodia http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PR%20American%20Blue%20TO%20Noodlers%20Ottoman/2617e8e7.jpg Left Side. PR American Blue: Nine lines from the M200+EF; then ten lines from the 330+M; then ten lines from the Safari+1.1i .Right Side. Noodler's Ottoman Azure: Nine lines from the M200+EF; then ten lines from the 330+M; then ten lines from the Safari+1.1i .Figure 5. Written Samples on HPJ1124 http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PR%20American%20Blue%20TO%20Noodlers%20Ottoman/c82a3421.jpg 1st Line: PR American Blue from the 330+M2nd Line: Noodlers' Ottoman Azure from the 330+M3rd Line: PR American Blue from the Safari+1.1i4th Line: Noodles Ottoman Azure from the Safari+1.1i High Resolution Scans As I do not wish to have the sobriquet 'Queen of the Bandwidth Bandits', these are Links only. PR American Blue from 330+M on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PR%20American%20Blue%20TO%20Noodlers%20Ottoman/d79962f9.jpgNoodlers Ottoman Azure from 330+M on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PR%20American%20Blue%20TO%20Noodlers%20Ottoman/7a958061.jpgPR American Blue from Safari+1.1i on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PR%20American%20Blue%20TO%20Noodlers%20Ottoman/d490f7e6.jpgNoodlers Ottoman Azure from Safari+1.1i on Rhodia. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PR%20American%20Blue%20TO%20Noodlers%20Ottoman/9113ec6f.jpgPR American Blue and Noodlers Ottoman Azure from 330+M on HPJ1124. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PR%20American%20Blue%20TO%20Noodlers%20Ottoman/00e14879.jpgPR American Blue and Noodlers Ottoman Azure from Safari+1.1i on HPJ1124. http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy116/Sandy1-1/InkyThoughts2010/Comparison%20-%20PR%20American%20Blue%20TO%20Noodlers%20Ottoman/fb0f56de.jpgObservations: These are the things which are not apparent from the Images.These observations may differ ever so slightly from the Ink Review/s that may be in place.My contribution was to generate enough reasonable samples, then capture the appearance of those samples.If you'd like more detailed information, please send me a PM; I'll do what I can. (Within reason - you naughty FPN boys).I leave it to each viewer to interpret what is seen, and/or to initiate discussion in the usual way.Type: • Both are dye-based FP inks. Flow Rate: • Both are higher than usual. • PR American Blue is somewhat greater. Nib Dry-out: • Both inks are OK. Start-up: • Both inks are OK. Lubrication: • Both inks are OK. • PR American Blue is superior. Nib Creeping: • None for both inks. Staining: • None after 3 days for both inks. Clogging: • Not seen for both inks. • It feels like PRAB may be more prone to clogging - simply due to high saturation of dye-stuff. (?) Bleed Through: • None on papers used for both inks. Show Through: • None on papers used for both inks. • Both sides of the sheet may be used. Clean-up: • PRAB was slower than usual, and almost encourages one to reach for a surfactant to speed things along. • NOA was faster than usual. • Both cleaned-up well with plain water. Densitometer Readings - From the Ink Reviews. (FWIW) Private Reserve American Blue:Red 67Grn 91Blu 193Lum 106[*]Noodler's Ottoman Azure: Red 65Grn 105Blu 183Lum 113 |:|''||''|:|''||''|:|''||''|.|''||''|:|''||''|.|''||''|:|''||''|:|''||''|:| MATERIEL Paper: Written Samples:RhodiaHPJ1124Glossy card[*]Other: Glossy paperHPJ1124Royal - 25% cotton rag Pens: Pelikan M200 + M200-series g-p steel EFSheaffer 330 + steel MLamy Pink Safari + a rather wet steel 1.1iIMAGES: Scans were made on an Epson V600 scanner; factory defaults were accepted.Figures shown were scanned at 96 dpi & 24 bit colour.Images linked were scanned at 300 dpi & 24 bit colour.Scans went straight to the file sharing thingy. -30-