Jump to content

Best place to buy a J bar & what else is inside


Titivillus

Recommended Posts

Before I made my purchase with Pendemonium for some sacs and shellac I decided to open the pen up. Well a little hairdryer heating let it come right out!

 

Problem is that with the sac ( black) there also came out two metal pieces which I figure are the bar. So I need to find a source of replacements.

 

I shined a light into the barrel and it looks like there is a half round piece to hold the sac in place so I'm curious if someone else could enlighten me on the inners of an Estie.

 

 

thanks,

 

K

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 9
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Titivillus

    4

  • OcalaFlGuy

    2

  • ANM

    1

  • MsLoathsome

    1

Top Posters In This Topic

Before I made my purchase with Pendemonium for some sacs and shellac I decided to open the pen up. Well a little hairdryer heating let it come right out!

 

Problem is that with the sac ( black) there also came out two metal pieces which I figure are the bar. So I need to find a source of replacements.

 

I shined a light into the barrel and it looks like there is a half round piece to hold the sac in place so I'm curious if someone else could enlighten me on the inners of an Estie.

 

 

thanks,

 

K

 

Do some reading on this forum as there's a nice cutaway photo of an Estie showing the relative positions of the j bar and sac. You can also check out http://www.richardspens.com for some excellent illustrations of what's inside a typical lever fill pen.

 

The half round piece you see is a spacer that allowed Esterbrook to use the same j bars and sacs in J as well as in slimmer LJ/SJ pens. That piece is secured in place. The new j bar would be pushed in against in but the sac would not hit the end of that spacer. This is one of those times that a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

I purchased some additional j bars from woodbin.ca while I was getting the sacs. The bummer is that there are no Estie j bars to be had so they're all generic. They are also a bit too long and will require trimming and fitting to fit properly. This is where some donor pens for part become invaluable.

 

Same thing happened to me with my first Estie pen (a red J).

Good luck.

Alex

Edited by biotdi
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kurt!

 

Glad to see that you decided to try it yourself!

The hairdryer was a good idea, and you may need a little heat again to get the section back in place. Worry about that later!

 

The "Half Plastic" piece you see is a sac protector(?). It's there to ensure that the #16

sac worked with all Estie pens. It belongs there, so leave it there! You will need to get the replacement J-bar in there past that plastic part when you get it back in though!

 

Farmboy here at FPN is an excellent source for Estie parts. I have gotten J-bars and jewels from him myself. PM him with those needs!

 

Frank

"Celebrating Eight Years of Retail Writing Excellence"

"When, in the course of writing events, in becomes self-evident that not all pens are created equal"

 

Federalist Pens and Paper (Online Pen Store)

 

facelogobooks.png.7b61776c10ce24852b00693f4005dc72.png

 

 

Use Forum Code "FPN" at Checkout to Receive an Additional 5% Discount!

 
 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kurt!

 

Glad to see that you decided to try it yourself!

The hairdryer was a good idea, and you may need a little heat again to get the section back in place. Worry about that later!

 

The "Half Plastic" piece you see is a sac protector(?). It's there to ensure that the #16

sac worked with all Estie pens. It belongs there, so leave it there! You will need to get the replacement J-bar in there past that plastic part when you get it back in though!

 

Farmboy here at FPN is an excellent source for Estie parts. I have gotten J-bars and jewels from him myself. PM him with those needs!

 

Frank

 

The sac protector/stabilizer might need to be adjusted if it's in the wrong place. I learned this from Farmboy. When I got mine, it had migrated askew. It should be placed directly opposite the lever. Farmboy said that there is some kind of little tab or clip inside that will lock the stabilizer in place once you push it into place. Hope that helps.

I subscribe to The Rule of 10 (pens, that is)

1) Parker Sonnet 1st gen 2) Pelikan 200 yellow 3) Parker 51 vac 4) Esterbrook trans J 5) Esterbrook LJ "Bell System Property" 6) Sheaffer Snorkel Valiant fern green 7) Waterman 52.5V 8) Parker 75 cisele 9) open 10) open (I'm hankering for a Doric)

 

<img src="http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/606/letterji9.png" border="0" class="linked-sig-image" />

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kurt!

 

Glad to see that you decided to try it yourself!

The hairdryer was a good idea, and you may need a little heat again to get the section back in place. Worry about that later!

 

The "Half Plastic" piece you see is a sac protector(?). It's there to ensure that the #16

sac worked with all Estie pens. It belongs there, so leave it there! You will need to get the replacement J-bar in there past that plastic part when you get it back in though!

 

Farmboy here at FPN is an excellent source for Estie parts. I have gotten J-bars and jewels from him myself. PM him with those needs!

 

Frank

 

The sac protector/stabilizer might need to be adjusted if it's in the wrong place. I learned this from Farmboy. When I got mine, it had migrated askew. It should be placed directly opposite the lever. Farmboy said that there is some kind of little tab or clip inside that will lock the stabilizer in place once you push it into place. Hope that helps.

 

Yep that's what I thought it was since it is in the perfect place to hold the sac against the bar. I think it's in the proper place so that's at least good.

 

K

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kurt, Trust Me! I have the mechanical apptitude of a small appliance bulb. The one redeeming mechanical

skill I have is to know when, if I do one more thing, I'll mess it up beyond all repair. (There are actually worse

single skills to have...) If *I* can resac an Estie ANYONE can do it.

 

Having the section apart easily puts you half way there. I will say actually getting the sac on the nipple is

a little fiddly for my fat fingers but a little practice sans shellac beforehand helps alot there. Different

people use different de-fiddling methods. I do have a sac spreader but I found that more trouble than it's worth

personally. The method I've finally settled on for me is to hold the bottom of the sac over the bottom edge

of the nipple with a fingernail and use tweezers to pull the upper edge over. Since I tend to get shellac on

most everything within about 5' of me when I'm doing this, I usually masking tape over the sac section except

for the nipple area to keep it clean(er). After the sac is on and a bead of shellac run against the edge of it,

a wipedown of the section (staying away from the nipple area of course) with a paper towel wetted with rubbing

alcohol gets any shellac that may have snuck under the masking tape off.

 

HTH,

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kurt, Trust Me! I have the mechanical apptitude of a small appliance bulb. The one redeeming mechanical

skill I have is to know when, if I do one more thing, I'll mess it up beyond all repair. (There are actually worse

single skills to have...) If *I* can resac an Estie ANYONE can do it.

 

 

Next question is what sizze of J bar do I need to get as I see three different ones and trash has already gone with the broken pieces!

 

K

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kurt, Trust Me! I have the mechanical apptitude of a small appliance bulb. The one redeeming mechanical

skill I have is to know when, if I do one more thing, I'll mess it up beyond all repair. (There are actually worse

single skills to have...) If *I* can resac an Estie ANYONE can do it.

 

 

Next question is what sizze of J bar do I need to get as I see three different ones and trash has already gone with the broken pieces!

 

K

 

Kurt,

 

Take this as preliminary info until someone more knowledgable steps in.

 

I think you need to order 54mm replacements BUTTT, I also think some bending/snipping is necessary too.

If at all possible, I'd try and get those 2 broken pieces so you can make a clone. Also keep in mind that

the modern replacements don't have the lever stop tabs in them, that you will have to manually stop the

lever at the 90 deg verticle point during a fill. If you want the lever to stop at verticle by itself you need a

standard Estie j-bar from (I think) the same style (J, LJ, SJ) pen you have.

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kurt,

 

Take this as preliminary info until someone more knowledgable steps in.

 

I think you need to order 54mm replacements BUTTT, I also think some bending/snipping is necessary too.

If at all possible, I'd try and get those 2 broken pieces so you can make a clone. Also keep in mind that

the modern replacements don't have the lever stop tabs in them, that you will have to manually stop the

lever at the 90 deg verticle point during a fill. If you want the lever to stop at verticle by itself you need a

standard Estie j-bar from (I think) the same style (J, LJ, SJ) pen you have.

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

 

Bruce,

thanks for the info- got a PM from Farmboy that confirms the 55 & my Churchill didn't have the lever stop tab so I've dealt with that already. Now to get all of the pieces and put together the pen.

 

K

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33559
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26744
    5. jar
      jar
      26101
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...