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Please share your Mother-of-All Polishing Regimes
Posted 22 August 2012 - 02:39
Beall Buffing System
Posted 22 August 2012 - 14:51
I prefer to do my polishing by hand. While some would say I over polish, at least doing it by hand allows me to carefully appraise the polish job step by step and polish only as much as is needed. I also mask off pen's trim and imprints so they aren't adversely affected. This masking off works fine for hand polishing and I suspect not near so well with "machine" polishing.
Then there is the cost.
I worked up my polish regimen specifically to use items either already on hand or readily available economically locally. It costs less than $10 to use my suggested materials for probably at least 20-30 pens. For the cost of just One of the Beall systems, about 8-9 members here could set themselves up with polish media for the foreseeable future.
I've refined my process to the point that I think it's as good as it's going to get and I know exactly how to use it to eliminate any scratch that Can be polished out safely. Honestly, I just don't see any reason to "fix" something that isn't broken.
I can certainly understand how the Beall system would be beneficial to those turning pens from raw materials on a lathe. That is a much more demanding set of circumstances than the usual pen polishing I'm going to do.
Bruce in Ocala, FL
Posted 22 August 2012 - 16:40
I once used a bench-mounted buffer on a Montblanc, and I took a piece out of it, even though I tried to be really careful. I hadn't meant to break a $135 pen (1980s), but it happened anyway. It's now a frankenpen. The buffers are fast, but it's better to be late . . .
"Don't hurry, don't worry. It's better to be late at the Golden Gate than to arrive in Hell on time."
--Sign in a bar and grill, Ormond Beach, Florida, 1960.
They took the blue from the skies and the pretty girls' eyes and a touch of Old Glory too . . .
Posted 22 August 2012 - 19:13
Good answers. Thanks for the reply. Once I get my first Esterbrook I will go with Bruce's method.
Posted 31 August 2012 - 23:01
I had a question about using automotive wax on pens. I looked at the back of the can and it said formulated with Pure Carnauba wax so I wanted to know what was in it. I work on helicopters so when I want to know what is in something I look up the Material Safety Data Sheet on it. I pulled up Meguiar's Wax. In the Deep Crystal Carnauba Wax I found it has 10 to 25% Naphtha petroleum, heavy hydrotreated and a 5 to 10% polymer blend a few other things at 1 to 5%. In the Car Cleaner Wax-Paste the big one was 30 to 60% Petroleum Distillates HFP, 7 to 13% Polydimethylsiloxane, with a bunch of other things in very small %.
I looked up Carnauba wax and found it was a hard wax that needs to be blended with other things to be a paste. I picked up some flakes from a wood shop just to play with but I think I will look at it more before I use a wax.
I just think you may want to know what is in what you use on your pens. I don’t want to sound like I know what will or won't harm them, it's just I would worry about what to put on a good pen. I have broken, melted, and done other things to pens before I looked at what I was doing. It's one thing when you are working with a pen that would be trash and you are bringing back from the dead but if you are finished and just want to make it shine it may be at the cost of the pen in the long run. If you want to know more just search for MSDS and the name of the product.
Enjoy your pens for a long time!
Posted 01 September 2012 - 01:46
Here is a pic.