Pilot inlaid nib leaking

[knewmans]

I have a full size Elite with the large inlaid nib as used on the Custom. Its leaking ink on the right hand side of the nib at the barrel end giving me inky fingers. Left side seems to be fine.

 

Anyone know how to remove and/or reseal a nib of this type?

 

Thanks

Ken

[haywoody]

I fixed one, with some help from Stan, a few months ago. The nibs slide on to the section from the cap end and are held in place by glue. If the glue deteriorates you get air in and ink out.

 

Mine was already loose so I just pulled it off. You might have to soak it in water, heat it up or use a bit of force to get the nib off. Some of these nibs have a small tang at the end away from the tip which snaps into the section a bit. It doesn't provide much resistance but be sure not to push down on this area when trying to slide it off. After removal:

 

1. Remove all glue residue from the nib and section.

2. Apply epoxy over the area behind the feed. You want to make sure you don't leave any air-gaps under the nib once it is cured so don't spread it too thin.

3. Slide the nib on an be sure not to pull back and spread the epoxy into the feed.

4. Ensure the nib is slid all the way on (no gaps between nib and section)

5. Wipe any excess epoxy off with a damp cloth, away from the feed/tip end of the nib. You really don't want epoxy on the business end of the pen.

6. Let it cure as instructed by the epoxy manufacturer. I let mine sit a few days before inking.

 

Good luck.

 

/Woody

Edited January 10, 2009 by haywoody

[knewmans]

Thanks

I'll give it a try.

 

Ken

[stan]

Please do not cut corners.

 

Do not use 'Crazy Glue' or any isocynaurate type of adhesive. In my experience a two-part epoxy is best. this is the same stuff you might use for gluing to pieces of china together and the same stuff sold at Michael's or any craft store. If any oozes out, don't worry. Let is try and rub oit off. Epoxy is very weak in shear strength and comes off. You can use a toothpick to smooth and remove any excess at the joint between the nib and section.

 

Good luck.

[MYU]

Ammonia will also work well at dissolving the old adhesive. I accidentally removed the nib of a Pilot Custom when trying to clean it of dried ink with a powerful ammonia/water solution (~50:50). The thing slid right off. The adhesive was still tacky, so I immediately put the nib back on. But after that, it started to leak from the sides as you described. I haven't tried taking off the nib and gluing it back on with a better adhesive spread... actually, the nib is on very solid at the moment. I'm now tempted to try Captain Tulley's Creeping Crack Cure on the sides of the nib, as a kind of "filler". If it doesn't work, then I'll just go the epoxy route.

Edited January 10, 2009 by MYU

[Dillo]

Hi,

 

It is better to use epoxy. Don't use the creeping cure unless you can take the feed out of the pen. To take the feed out, you will need some special tool that I have. And, whatever you do, do not let any adhesive touch the feed.

 

Dillon

[knewmans]

Epoxy it is then. I had thought of shellac. The ammonia trick is good to know as I was wary of heat. I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks

Ken

[Jopen]

I like better to go the slooow way...

 

I had the same problem with a custom. There was enough leaking to get inky fingers when the upper portion of the nib was in contact with the fingers.

 

To take out the nib I had to pry out and up gently both lateral nib "tangs" or tongues as there was no posterior end "tang" ... only to find a hard black adhesive that did not reach nor seal the borders, being adhered to the nib but not to the plastic and leaving the perfect way for ink to find its way up. I used shellac to seal all that uper portion. I know if anything goes wrong, I can remove safely the nib again (I hope)...

[knewmans]

Well the nib's off. I put it in an ammonia solution in an ultrasonic cleaner. The nib then slid straight off. Next step is gluing it back. My only concern with epoxy is how do I get it off again if I screw up!

[Jopen]

As far as I can imagine, there may be a small chance that it will demould again with the ultrasonic bath, providing that both surfaces are absolute shiny when gluing it the first time. The other way is HEAT, but may be to a degree that the section will for sure not "survive"... this is the reason why I don't like the idea of using epoxy here... my face gets every time I think in that, as epoxy tends to produce a very durable and strong bond.

[knewmans]

Strong and durable would be good here, I just need to get it right. Stan I know has a lot of experience here so I'll wait for a clear desk and a clear head and do it.

[Jopen]

Strong and durable would be good here, I just need to get it right. Stan I know has a lot of experience here so I'll wait for a clear desk and a clear head and do it.

 

Yes, I know Stan is an authority in this field and I respect absolutely his advice. Perhaps the trick is to use exactly what he says, the usual epoxy, which is rather dense, not the special fluid epoxy resins which in fact can go into the feed and slit. The dense one, used just in the whole border and away from the feed slit, in a very small quantity should be enough for strength and function and at the same time less risky. I used shellac for the purpose in a very very thin layer applied to both parts, and without disturbing the previous surfaces, except for a good cleaning. The result is still to be seen, and that needs time...

[Dillo]

Hi,

 

I recommend applying the epoxy on the section itself, not on the nib. This way, the epoxy that is squeezed out will be squeezed out of the joint and not into the feed.

 

Dillon

[elena]

I just had to add that you are all so very brave.

 

Respectfully,

elena

[stan]

The epoxy should be applied to the section, mostly towards the center of the area where the nib sits. This will allow it to squish towards the perimeter. The only requirement is that the existing adhesive be completely removed from the section and nib. It does not need to be squeeky surgically clean, just cleaned off. You don't need any ultrasonic stuff. Do not use any heat. I think, if anything, the nib will expand and loosen to cause another leak, or some plastic might melt. You do not need to mess with the feed as it is perfectly fine where it is and not part of the problem. After replacing the nib wait 24 hours. I know there will the temptation to dry write with it or see if it is stable after an hour or two and, in all probability, it will be fine. But, don't. Wait the full curing time. When cured take a toothpick and remove any excess from the joints between the nib and section. Now you can write.

 

PS: Am not sure why some leak and some do not. Some also have discolored adhesive for which I have no good explanation. Guessing, I think pens left out under light and/or heat for long periods of time have a greater tendency to leak. Most of these pens are over thirty years old although one can find a current Silvern with the same problem. Let's assume workmanship is not the culprit in most pens (it might be in a few - watch out for pens made late on Friday afternoon).

Edited January 13, 2009 by stan

[Jopen]

........Let's assume workmanship is not the culprit in most pens (it might be in a few - watch out for pens made late on Friday afternoon).

 

I'm sure mine did!

The glue was only on the centre part, leaving ALL the edge free. That means that Mrs Cappilarity took its role and filled the gap with ink, thus leaking all around the nib to section joint! Perhaps mine is the exception, but the result is 100% logic.

[Jopen]

The trials with shellac FAILED. I do not know why, but the ink has found its way to my fingertip.

 

Next trial, I have choosen a thick epoxy resin, which is stable till 60ºC, which menas that it can be heat debonded if anything goes wrong afterwards, and in the case that due to the thin layer it may remain elastic and not demold (debond) phisically in an easy way. Now comes the curing time...

 

This should make Stan happy

[Jopen]

Well.. err...

 

THANKS to Ken for starting this thread, and Woody, Stan and Dillon for being epoxyphagous... The cure is definitely epoxy resin, and it has prooved to be much more safe and easy to apply correctly than I could imagine... I have used lots of epoxy previously, but never in such a microscopic tiny ammounts like in this task ... There are some toothpicks missing in the kitchen, but that's all!!!

 

As I said... THANKS...

Edited January 15, 2009 by Jopen

[troglokev]

I gather that the epoxy was a success, then! Omedetou gozaimasu!

 

Another little fact to store in the memory bank for the inevitable occasion that it happens to me.

[Jopen]

I gather that the epoxy was a success, then! Omedetou gozaimasu!

 

Another little fact to store in the memory bank for the inevitable occasion that it happens to me.

 

Yup! Now my finger is clean... and using Tsuki-yo, which climbs and creeps everything!!!