Heat for Section removal/reinsertion, is there a consensus?

[jszh]

I'm aware that this is an old thread, but I thought this might be relevant:

 

I bought a problem Estie back in November that kept leaking into its cap. I'd pretty much given up on it because I didn't have a hair dryer in my dorm, and the section wouldn't budge no matter what I did, but today I spent 15 minutes (yeah, it took that long) with my hair dryer and finally managed to pull it out.

 

The verdict: The sac is perfectly fine. :| Might be the nib?

 

Also, my fingers are really sore. xD

 

I am not an expert at all but I read somewhere on the forum that it might be the feed or the distance between the feed and nib. Sorry I can't remember which thread it is.

[FarmBoy]

I'm aware that this is an old thread, but I thought this might be relevant:

 

I bought a problem Estie back in November that kept leaking into its cap. I'd pretty much given up on it because I didn't have a hair dryer in my dorm, and the section wouldn't budge no matter what I did, but today I spent 15 minutes (yeah, it took that long) with my hair dryer and finally managed to pull it out.

 

The verdict: The sac is perfectly fine. :| Might be the nib?

 

Also, my fingers are really sore. xD

You have checked the first place I would look so lets move on. Is the renew point tightly seated? Do you have a crack in the section? Also try cleaning out the cap to see if you are just seeing residue appear.

 

Todd

[Jules]

Thanks, everyone! The section appears to be okay and I actually just soaked the cap overnight. If it were just caused by the ink residue in the cap, though, I don't know how it would explain the first major leak -- it was awhile back, though, so I probably did something wrong (knowing me).

 

I have a new nib coming in sometime during the next month. Should I try putting the old one back in first?

[riff raff]

No one has mentioned it, but I've had good luck with heating sections over a bare 40 or 60 Watt light bulb.

 

It's just hard to see afterwards. *blink* *blink* :blink:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited for speeling

Edited June 7, 2010 by riff raff

[watch_art]

and with hair dryers, i have a paper cone taped onto mine to concentrate the heat. works well for shellac too. at least from my limited experience.

[jszh]

I am going to try hair drier soon. I used an iron. I wrapped the section with cloth to block the heat and also only let the barrel face the iron heat. But after 40 mins (yes) the section still didn't move. I almost applied a hammer on it. So frustrating.

Edited June 7, 2010 by jszh

[OcalaFlGuy]

No one has mentioned it, but I've had good luck with heating sections over a bare 40 or 60 Watt light bulb.

 

It just hard to see afterwards. *blink* *blink* :blink:

 

Well, looks like Mike set the stage for a little confession time here. :embarrassed_smile: (Thanks alot Mike! )

 

I was in the past a big proponent of this idea. (In fact, months ago, I DID post a post about it when I first thought it was a newly discovered <for me> GREAT idea!) I've learned since that you need to be careful with it.

 

The good news is (IMO) the heat application is nice and even and slow which on the surface sounds good. The not so good part

(IMO) turns out to be the "slow" part.

 

If one is not careful, the heat from those bulbs can migrate down the barrel and possibly get it warm enough for not good

things to happen like barrel bulge (where the lever retaining ring presses the softened celluloid outwards creating a ring like bulge) or even warping the barrel. (damhIk, Ijk, ok?) Now, I have found a way to mitigate the odds of that happening and that's to make kind of a wrapped paper toweling insulation blanket around the part of the barrel I DON'T want to get warm and that does help (while I'm there, I also fashion a mini-blanket to go over the section so that the only part directly exposed to the heat is the about 3/4" of the end of the barrel I really want to soften/expand). Honestly, all this extra safeguarding tended to negate the "lazy man's way" of section seperation that I thought this would be to start with. (And, while the insulating "blanket" DOES stop the direct radiating heat, it DOESN'T affect the heat simply migrating down the barrel itself...)

 

These days, I am much more in favor of sufficiently hot enough heat, focused and applied directly to just the area in question for as little time as possible to accomplish the mission. I think this is the safest method for the surrounding areas of the barrel that don't take so kindly to heat.

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

[riff raff]

Well, that makes sense, Bruce. So hot and fast is better than warm and slow, due to the heat transfer rate?

[OcalaFlGuy]

That's my opinion Mike...

 

and you know that's worth 3x what you paid for it.

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

[jszh]

I tried hair drier this evening. Right, the heat does cause a little bulge on the barrel. I put a sock over the barrel. Then I tried to put the section into water and used the water to block the heat. Then I used wet toilet paper to wrap both the section and the lower part of the barrel. BUT the section just didn't move a bit! Hair drier didn't help remove the section so far but did magically make the lever work perfectly now (perhaps any heat). Will try again tomorrow.

Edited June 8, 2010 by jszh

[Rabbit]

... Then I tried to put the section into water and used the water to block the heat. ...

 

Just don't drop the hair drier in the water.

 

--Stephen

[jszh]

Thanks, Stephen, safety first. I am already "injured": just noticed a big blister on the right index finger! Too much struggle with this section. :roflmho:

 

 

 

... Then I tried to put the section into water and used the water to block the heat. ...

 

Just don't drop the hair drier in the water.

 

--Stephen

Edited June 8, 2010 by jszh

[riff raff]

I'm going to hazard a guess and suggest that one's been glued together.

 

Thanks, Stephen, safety first. I am already "injured": just noticed a big blister on the right index finger! Too much struggle with this section. :roflmho:

 

 

 

... Then I tried to put the section into water and used the water to block the heat. ...

 

Just don't drop the hair drier in the water.

 

--Stephen

[jszh]

Does that mean there is nothing I can do about it? If it was glued, I assume it is the previous owner who did it not the factory.

 

There is one mm between the section and barrel now but I am sure it is caused by the pulling or the cutting of the blade that I used as a lever.

 

I'm going to hazard a guess and suggest that one's been glued together.

 

 

[FarmBoy]

Does that mean there is nothing I can do about it? If it was glued, I assume it is the previous owner who did it not the factory.

 

There is one mm between the section and barrel now but I am sure it is caused by the pulling or the cutting of the blade that I used as a lever.

Saw blades make be cringe.

 

Sometimes you just get one that is just stubborn.

 

Put it away and come back to it later on.

 

Todd

[jszh]

Thanks, Todd. I am leaving it aside and let my thumb joints to recover.

 

 

 

Does that mean there is nothing I can do about it? If it was glued, I assume it is the previous owner who did it not the factory.

 

There is one mm between the section and barrel now but I am sure it is caused by the pulling or the cutting of the blade that I used as a lever.

Saw blades make be cringe.

 

Sometimes you just get one that is just stubborn.

 

Put it away and come back to it later on.

 

Todd

[watch_art]

so what happened??

[The Grim Sheaffer]

Consensus ........ You still dare to try Bruce. There has never been consensus, ever ... ever

[OcalaFlGuy]

It's been a year and a half since this thread first started.

 

At least among the pro repairpersons, I'd think there actually IS a consensus on the original question.

 

I doubt you will find one of them who will say that NOT using some heat to remove a section is a good idea. (go back in this thread and read El Zorno's post...)

 

(You will still get some who use a heatgun, some that use a hairdryer and some that use other sources of heat but

that's differing on what source to use to not whether or not to use in the first place...)

 

Bruce Ocala, FL

[The Grim Sheaffer]

touché