Help Rebuild 1994 Namiki Vanishing Point Converter

[saturation]

Hello Group:

 

Wondering if anyone has insight on rebuilding the bladder based Namiki Vanishing Point converter of 1994?

 

The 1994 Namiki bladder converters were horrible. :bonk:

 

The material would crack after months of use and I contacted Pilot about this many times. I received 4 bladders, and all eventually cracked. But, if I can rebuild them, I'd have a good supply of spares.

 

I found out that the newer Pilot VP piston converter, while it seems to fit superficially, actually doesn't too well. It pushes the nib forward 3mm leaving the trap door on the pen a touch open, allowing the nib to dry out in a day or so.

 

Its either repair it or use ink cartridges!

 

The small text on the lower left margin reads:

 

Converter alone. The bladder assembly is held to the shell by a press fitting at the top [point by red arrow]

Edited February 15, 2006 by saturation

[whv]

if the modern converter fits the nipple in the section, i would try cutting a bit off the tail of the filler knob - sounds as if that may help your overall length problem.

best

Edited February 17, 2006 by whv

[saturation]

if the modern converter fits the nipple in the section, i would try cutting a bit off the tail of the filler knob - sounds as if that may help your overall length problem.

best

 

Thanks! Oh I wish it were so. Its one of the first things I considered. Alas, the bottom of the Pilot converter is 3 tiered, like a pyramid with steps. The third step [away from the black segment] is a touch too wide for the shaft of the clicker section of the Namiki.

 

The 4th step tapers again, so it can fit the adapter of the nib section.

 

In the Namiki converter, the end slowly widens until it enters the nib section, where its at its widest.

 

One gets a great appreciation of how well this pen is designed when trying to design something to fit it!

 

http://www.pilotpen-store.com/imagesEdp/p17654b.jpg

Edited February 17, 2006 by saturation

[Dillo]

Hi,

 

Sorry for the advertising, but I can do it for you and add a clear silicone sac for $10. I had to rebuild a converter for my Pastel II this way.

 

Anyway, Pilot still does make those converters, I got one with my Pilot CD (Capless Decimo).

 

Dillon

[saturation]

Hi,

 

Sorry for the advertising, but I can do it for you and add a clear silicone sac for $10. I had to rebuild a converter for my Pastel II this way.

 

Anyway, Pilot still does make those converters, I got one with my Pilot CD (Capless Decimo).

 

Dillon

Hi Dillo,

 

Sounds very tempting. If it isn't too difficult I would have liked to DIY to learn how to fix it, being that I'm sure it will happen again sometime.

 

That said, $10 is very reasonable. What would it be like complete, S/H included?

 

Private mail me with particulars, if you choose.

[Lloyd]

  The third step [away from the black segment]  is a touch too wide for the shaft of the clicker section of the Namiki.

Is there any chance one could widen the clicker section?

[saturation]

  The third step [away from the black segment]  is a touch too wide for the shaft of the clicker section of the Namiki.

Is there any chance one could widen the clicker section?

Yes, but not without a lot of work enough to reconsider if its worth the effort.

 

At the bottom of the clicker section is a brass like stop that appears to be screwed or glued into the clicker section. Its possible to 'thin' this section out by grinding it.

 

If you turn it in deeper it will keep the trap door shut, but when clicked the tip of the nib it will barely clear through the opening.

 

In analogy its like getting a life saver candy and enlarging the hole in the center. The hole is large enough to let most of the converter through, up to a point. Its purpose seems to keep the clicker mechanism from falling out and to adjust the amount of nib exposed when clicked.

Edited March 2, 2006 by saturation