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Replacing an Esterbrook J-Bar

Djehuty

By Djehuty
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Djehuty

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I have a couple of Esterbrooks in need of new J-bars. The old ones fell out of the barrel in several rusty pieces when I opened the pens. :)

 

How difficult is this operation?

 

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FarmBoy Museum Piece

FarmBoy

Posted
Posted
I have a couple of Esterbrooks in need of new J-bars. The old ones fell out of the barrel in several rusty pieces when I opened the pens. :)

 

How difficult is this operation?

 

Extremely easy.

 

Step 1: Procure replacement J-bar. (Donor pen, parts bin, pen repair person, etc.)

Step 2: Clean the inside of the pen.

Step 3: Clean the inside of the pen again.

Step 4: Let the pen throughly dry before Step 5.

Step 5: Insert the J-bar you procured in Step 1 with a needle nose pliers. (Align the J-bar in the proper orientation as you insert it.)

Step 6: Assemble the rest of the pen.

 

Esties take a 54 mm J-bar if you go the replacement route. Esterbrook J-bars had a lever stop on them, modern replacements do not. Replacement J-bars are ~$3-4 each. If you can find an original for sale they tend to run slightly more.

 

Todd

 

 

San Francisco International Pen Show - The next “Funnest Pen Show” is on schedule for August 23-24-25, 2024.  Watch the show website for registration details. 
 

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Djehuty Collectors Item

Djehuty

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That's it? :lol:

 

I envisioned a delicate procedure involving a jeweler's loupe, some sort of specialized inserter thingy, and a nurse standing by to swab the sweat from my brow.

 

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johnboz Vintage

johnboz

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It's super easy, as FarmBoy said. One thing I'll add: if your J-bar does not line up, don't worry about it. No matter how perfectly you line it up before you push it into the barrel, it will surely be a little off when you test it with the lever (do this before you put the section back in). Just reach your needle nose pliers into the barrel, grab the J-bar, and wiggle and twist it around a little until it works with the lever.

 

If you find that you fell like you need to start over, just grab the J-bar and slowly pull it out while twisting. It will sound very bad, like you are damaging your pen, but I've checked on some spare barrels and even though it sounds like it's scraping plastic, I have not been able to find any scratches from pulling out a J-bar.

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FarmBoy Museum Piece

FarmBoy

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That's it? :lol:

 

 

Shhh. Lets keep this our secret.

 

Todd

 

 

San Francisco International Pen Show - The next “Funnest Pen Show” is on schedule for August 23-24-25, 2024.  Watch the show website for registration details. 
 

My PM box is usually full. Just email me: my last name at the google mail address.

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  • 1 year later...
HokieGeek Rare

HokieGeek

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So, that's the insertion part of this algorithm. How would I go about removing a very rusted (but firmly in place) j-bar from an estie J? It's not glued on there, so I can just try to pry it off? Seems like the spacer could get in the way

Currently inked pens:

  • Pelikan M205 Amethyst [F] (Noodler's Manhattan Blue)
  • Shaeffer PFM II Blue (Private Reserve Naples Blue)
  • Lamy 2000 [binder Italifine 0.7/0.5] (J. Herbin Vert Empire)
  • Waterman Ideal N° 01855 (Noodler's Walnut)
  • Pilot Vanishing Point Mustard [binder Stub Italic 0.6] (Noodler's Walnut)
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ZeissIkon Antique

ZeissIkon

Posted
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So, that's the insertion part of this algorithm. How would I go about removing a very rusted (but firmly in place) j-bar from an estie J? It's not glued on there, so I can just try to pry it off? Seems like the spacer could get in the way

 

When I pulled the J-bar from my J, I found it came right out after I turned it enough to get the top end clear of the sac tray. I also found (though others claim this is unlikely) that, if I used the lever to partially compress the J-bar, I was able to grab the section end with needle nose pliers, saving me having to find a pair of extra strong tweezers or buy a hemostat.

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HokieGeek Rare

HokieGeek

Posted
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So, that's the insertion part of this algorithm. How would I go about removing a very rusted (but firmly in place) j-bar from an estie J? It's not glued on there, so I can just try to pry it off? Seems like the spacer could get in the way

 

When I pulled the J-bar from my J, I found it came right out after I turned it enough to get the top end clear of the sac tray. I also found (though others claim this is unlikely) that, if I used the lever to partially compress the J-bar, I was able to grab the section end with needle nose pliers, saving me having to find a pair of extra strong tweezers or buy a hemostat.

 

Awesome, I'm going to try the switch tonight so it's good to know I won't have to tug too hard. I have a tendency to think more force is the answer to most engineering problems :D . I'm sure I'll learn finesse as I get older.... I'm sure of it.

Currently inked pens:

  • Pelikan M205 Amethyst [F] (Noodler's Manhattan Blue)
  • Shaeffer PFM II Blue (Private Reserve Naples Blue)
  • Lamy 2000 [binder Italifine 0.7/0.5] (J. Herbin Vert Empire)
  • Waterman Ideal N° 01855 (Noodler's Walnut)
  • Pilot Vanishing Point Mustard [binder Stub Italic 0.6] (Noodler's Walnut)
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ZeissIkon Antique

ZeissIkon

Posted
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Awesome, I'm going to try the switch tonight so it's good to know I won't have to tug too hard. I have a tendency to think more force is the answer to most engineering problems :D . I'm sure I'll learn finesse as I get older.... I'm sure of it.

 

If you're having to pull harder than what it would take to, say, extract a map tack from hard wood, something isn't right and you need to look for what you're hung up on. This is an excellent place to start learning to "see with your fingers", as the pen experts say; the J-bar will talk to you, if you only listen...

Does not always write loving messages.

Does not always foot up columns correctly.

Does not always sign big checks.

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HokieGeek Rare

HokieGeek

Posted
Posted
Awesome, I'm going to try the switch tonight so it's good to know I won't have to tug too hard. I have a tendency to think more force is the answer to most engineering problems :D . I'm sure I'll learn finesse as I get older.... I'm sure of it.

 

If you're having to pull harder than what it would take to, say, extract a map tack from hard wood, something isn't right and you need to look for what you're hung up on. This is an excellent place to start learning to "see with your fingers", as the pen experts say; the J-bar will talk to you, if you only listen...

Awesome! So that was indeed pretty simple. The tweezers were useless but my hemostat was perfect. Adding a new one wasn't as easy. The small j-bar I bought from FPH was a couple of mm too tall and the section wouldn't go in all the way, so it's a good thing that it was easy to remove as I found myself having to insert and remove it often. Thanks for the advice!

Currently inked pens:

  • Pelikan M205 Amethyst [F] (Noodler's Manhattan Blue)
  • Shaeffer PFM II Blue (Private Reserve Naples Blue)
  • Lamy 2000 [binder Italifine 0.7/0.5] (J. Herbin Vert Empire)
  • Waterman Ideal N° 01855 (Noodler's Walnut)
  • Pilot Vanishing Point Mustard [binder Stub Italic 0.6] (Noodler's Walnut)
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  • 5 years later...
menoeceus Near Mint

menoeceus

Posted
Posted

I find the hemostat is by far the best tool for this job. You should also have a good light that allows you to see all the way to the bottom of the barrel. Grab the j-bar with the hemostat and twist. Once it yields a little to the left or right, try pulling out while continuining to twist. Gently but firmly. It will eventually come out, unless it's hanging up. Check that with the light, manipulate to avoid the hang-up, and then keep pulling.

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  • 3 weeks later...
PDW Vintage

PDW

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I have never managed to get a J-bar into a pen without leaving the lever loose, from a slight rattle to serious droop when I turn the barrel lever-down.

 

What am I doing wrong?

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ac12 Donor Pen

ac12

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PDW

I think it is the shape of the top of the J-bar.

If the top of the J-bar is like a channel, there will be space between the bottom of the channel and the lever, so the lever will be loose.

For the lever to be tight, the J-bar has to be flat, so that it fits snugly against the lever.

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PDW Vintage

PDW

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Whenever I install a J-bar, however I push it in it ends up hanging down towards the open end, so that the lever is not held closed.

 

Help, please!

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