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Eradicable inks and the Pelikan Super Pirat


Goodwhiskers

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Picking up from an earlier thread in another FPN forum (please come back to this thread to reply), I'd like to know which brands and specific color names are eradicable with the Pelikan Super Pirat ink eradicator.

 

The only one mentioned by name as eradicable in that thread was Pelikan Royal Blue.

 

"Most European blues" was another term mentioned by 'Stylo' and 'Stypen,' but no specific names.

 

It wasn't clear to me whether FPN member 'scribble' was trying to erase J. Herbin Bleu Myosotis ('myosotis' = the forget-me-not flower?) with pencil erasers or eradicators.

 

How long does eradicator take to dry enough to write over with the same ink that was eradicated? Is that why the Super Pirat has a different blue ink at its other end?

 

Thanks for your time on this one :bunny1: :) .

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Hi, Steve. The eradicators I used as a student (not Pelikan, but I suspect they're the same) erased washable blues (e.g. Waterman, Stypen, Parker, and Reynolds). They did not work well with other colors at all. The cool thing was that the eraser would continue to work, so that the fountain ink disapeared as one tried to rewrite over the erased passage with fountain pen ink. The eraser liquid took a while to dry, IRC, such that any blue fountain ink would continue to disappear even hours later. Obviously, that is why eradicators always have a felt tip pen on the other end, though ballpoint works as well.

I hope that helps,

David

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How long does eradicator take to dry enough to write over with the same ink that was eradicated? Is that why the Super Pirat has a different blue ink at its other end?

Forget about writing onto the same place where eradicator liquid is soaked in. As antoniosz showed in some other thread, the eradicator liquid is dedicated to react with the blue ink dyes and changes their colour to transparent. Even much later, the blue ink will at least bleach somewhat. So you must use something else with a non-reactive colour.

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Thanks, guys.

 

The word "washable" isn't always on the label of washable blue inks in the USA, even from European brands. I'll be sure to ask when I try to buy it.

 

Now I know not to eradicate any of my marks, letters, words or lines without being ready to use the felt-tip pen on the other end or else a pen with a non-eradicable blue ink. I guess that also means eradication is a once-only action!

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Quink washable blue works, as does any regular short cartridge blue I've managed to try (from k-mart even). Yup, once only erasability - for what it's worth, the new erasable highlighters also erase the blue inks, for me anyway... But then I have to go use something else to write over it.

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I know Waterman Florida Blue is earasable.

Is it fair for an intelligent and family oriented mammal to be separated from his/her family and spend his/her life starved in a concrete jail?

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How long does eradicator take to dry enough to write over with the same ink that was eradicated? Is that why the Super Pirat has a different blue ink at its other end?

Yes, definitely. Most brands of eradicators are actually marked "erase" and "re-write" at the two ends. The blue end is to write back over.

 

I can't give you an exhaustive list, but Parker Quink Washable Blue, Waterman washable blue, Montblanc blue, Pelikan blue, Centropen blue, Lamy blue are all erasable. Any non-brand-name blue short-international-size cartridges purchased in Europe are also erasable.

 

Good luck. Do you have good access to the eradicators?

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  • 2 months later...

I just got a two-pack of Pelikan Super-Pirat eradicators from The Pen Gallery. Yes, at $4 USD it was more expensive than the $1 individual Super-Pirats at Pendemonium, but the main item of the order was a pen I couldn't find anywhere else online, and The Pen Gallery's shipping fee is $15 minimum (FedEx to anywhere; The Pen Gallery is in Malaysia), so I added an extra converter and the eradicator to the order to make the shipping worthwhile (they didn't have anything else I wanted at the time). The Pen Gallery is a good store!

 

Anyway, I tried the eradicator on days-dry or weeks-dry marks in Cross Blue (which is Pelikan 4001 Royal Blue), Lamy Blue and Sheaffer Skrip Blue from Slovenia, and the eradication happened as advertised.

 

Then I opened up my 2006-edition copy of Clark's Sampler and had a blast taking little swipes at the samples of blue-looking inks.

 

The following were eradicated:

Aurora Blue,

Boss Blue,

Callifgrafico Blue,

Camel Royal Blue,

Campo Marzio Blu,

Caran d'Ache Blue,

Cartier Blue,

Conway Stewart Navy Blue,

Delta Blue,

Dupont Royal Blue,

Faber Castell Blue,

G. Gnocci Blue,

J. Herbin Bleu Myosotis,

Lamy Blue,

Mont Blanc Blue,

Montegrappa Blue,

Pelikan 4001 Royal Blue (which is also Cross Blue),

Platignum Blue (think "g" for Great Britain),

Reform Blue,

Rotring Royal/Paris Blue,

Rubinato Blue,

Senator Blue,

Sheaffer Skrip Blue (both old pre-Slovenian and new Slovenian),

Stipula Blu della Robbia,

Visconti Lapis Blue,

and Waterman Florida Blue.

 

The following was lightened:

Parker Quink Blue (surprise?! this eradicator re-pulps paper easily, and I had to re-pulp the swipe through PQB before any of the PQB disappeared; maybe the sample swatch was too concentrated? did Dr. Clark apply the wrong sample to this spot?)

 

The following inks turned green and lighter, but did not become invisible:

Artist Line Nachtblau,

Diamine Blue-Black (which is also Yard-O-Led Blue-Black),

Waterman Blue-Black,

Diamine Royal Blue (which is also Yard-O-Led Blue),

J. Herbin Éclat de Saphir and

Omas Blue.

 

The following inks turned gray and lighter, but did not become invisible:

Boss Blue-Black,

Doctor Blue,

Hero Blue-Black,

Lamy Blue-Black,

Mont Blanc Blue-Black,

Pelikan Blue-Black,

Sheaffer Skrip Blue-Black (old, pre-Slovenia),

Uranus Blue,

Dupont Night Blue,

Hero Blue,

Namiki Blue, and

Platinum Blue (no "g," the Japanese brand).

 

The following turned magenta and lighter, but did not become invisible:

Aladine Bleu,

Campo Marzio Blu Notte, and

J. Herbin Bleu Nuit.

 

The following turned blue and lighter, but did not become invisible:

Bexley Lapis Blue, and

Rotring Ultramarine/Saxon Blue

 

The following did not change:

Duke Blue-Black (first sold as "Blue"),

Noodler's Blue-Black,

Noodler's Midnight Blue,

Noodler's Legal Lapis,

Parker Quink Blue-Black,

Pilot Blue-Black,

Private Reserve Midnight Blues,

Private Reserve Sonic Blue,

Private Reserve Black Magic Blue,

Sailor Blue-Black,

Sheaffer Skrip Blue-Black (new, Slovenia),

Swisher Blue-Black,

Noodler's/Swisher Tahitian Pearl,

Bexley Ocean Blue,

Farhney's Blue,

Levenger Cobalt Blue,

Levenger Skies of Blue,

Noodler's Navy,

Noodler's Ottoman Azure,

Noodler's Blue,

Noodler's American Eel Blue,

Noodler's Gulfstream Blue,

Panache/Hunt Blue,

Parker Penman Sapphire,

Private Reserve DC Supershow Blue,

Private Reserve American Blue,

Private Reserve Lake Placid Blue,

Sailor Blue,

Swisher Antigua Blue,

Noodler's/Swisher Eternal Glacier Blue,

Noodler's Luxury Blue, and

Swisher North Sea Blue.

 

Disclaimer: Not being eradicated by the chemical(s) in the Pelikan Super-Pirat is not a measure of either waterproofness or fraud-proofness, of course.

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The following inks turned green and lighter, but did not become invisible:

...

Waterman Blue-Black,

Could this confirm what many claim about Waterman BB: that there is a slight green hue in it? The eradicator perhaps erased the blue in the ink, leaving the unerased green component far more visible.

 

I still have to use my imagination to see some green in Waterman BB. I guess it is either my eyes or simply what I consider to be blue and green.

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The samples in the Sampler are heavy (from little cotton swabs on sticks), and the WM BB sample does lean toward green. Many, but not all, brands' blue-black inks lean a bit toward green, maybe because their black inks are a bit greenish when diluted.

 

(Edit: looked at the Sampler again.)

Edited by Goodwhiskers

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  • 4 months later...
Thanks Steve! That's a great reference.

Ditto on what Denis said.

I though that my choice of erasable blue was much more restricted. Thank You for your hard work.

Is it fair for an intelligent and family oriented mammal to be separated from his/her family and spend his/her life starved in a concrete jail?

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Dear Mods,

 

Would you mind putting this thread into the pinned section of Inky Thoughts?

Is it fair for an intelligent and family oriented mammal to be separated from his/her family and spend his/her life starved in a concrete jail?

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Dear Mods,

 

Would you mind putting this thread into the pinned section of Inky Thoughts?

Done! I added a link to this whole topic thread to the pinned topic, "Erasing/eradicating blue inks." I was going make a link to that, but it seems too recursive :) .

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Dear Mods,

 

Would you mind putting this thread into the pinned section of Inky Thoughts?

Done! I added a link to this whole topic thread to the pinned topic, "Erasing/eradicating blue inks." I was going make a link to that, but it seems too recursive :) .

I realized that almost right after I wrote the thread and forgot to say Big Thanks and Sorry for not figuring that out earlier. :doh: that's the perfect icon!

Is it fair for an intelligent and family oriented mammal to be separated from his/her family and spend his/her life starved in a concrete jail?

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  • 3 months later...

All parker 'washable' inks are good, but the ink eraser inks are never the same colour, my pen ink is different to my eraser ink BY FAR. It also leaves messy marks on the paper, removes lines on lined paper, and picks up paper fibres when you write over them straight away. It actually it look shabby. Any permanent ink while write over it. As for standard washable inks, you have to colour over them if you want to draw on the eraser fluid, but it makes holes in the paper, the inks spreads, like a leak.

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  • 5 months later...
  • 1 year later...
I just got a two-pack of Pelikan Super-Pirat eradicators from The Pen Gallery. Yes, at $4 USD it was more expensive than the $1 individual Super-Pirats at Pendemonium, but the main item of the order was a pen I couldn't find anywhere else online, and The Pen Gallery's shipping fee is $15 minimum (FedEx to anywhere; The Pen Gallery is in Malaysia), so I added an extra converter and the eradicator to the order to make the shipping worthwhile (they didn't have anything else I wanted at the time). The Pen Gallery is a good store!

 

Anyway, I tried the eradicator on days-dry or weeks-dry marks in Cross Blue (which is Pelikan 4001 Royal Blue), Lamy Blue and Sheaffer Skrip Blue from Slovenia, and the eradication happened as advertised.

 

Then I opened up my 2006-edition copy of Clark's Sampler and had a blast taking little swipes at the samples of blue-looking inks.

 

The following were eradicated:

Aurora Blue,

Boss Blue,

Callifgrafico Blue,

Camel Royal Blue,

Campo Marzio Blu,

Caran d'Ache Blue,

Cartier Blue,

Conway Stewart Navy Blue,

Delta Blue,

Dupont Royal Blue,

Faber Castell Blue,

G. Gnocci Blue,

J. Herbin Bleu Myosotis,

Lamy Blue,

Mont Blanc Blue,

Montegrappa Blue,

Pelikan 4001 Royal Blue (which is also Cross Blue),

Platignum Blue (think "g" for Great Britain),

Reform Blue,

Rotring Royal/Paris Blue,

Rubinato Blue,

Senator Blue,

Sheaffer Skrip Blue (both old pre-Slovenian and new Slovenian),

Stipula Blu della Robbia,

Visconti Lapis Blue,

and Waterman Florida Blue.

 

The following was lightened:

Parker Quink Blue (surprise?! this eradicator re-pulps paper easily, and I had to re-pulp the swipe through PQB before any of the PQB disappeared; maybe the sample swatch was too concentrated? did Dr. Clark apply the wrong sample to this spot?)

 

The following inks turned green and lighter, but did not become invisible:

Artist Line Nachtblau,

Diamine Blue-Black (which is also Yard-O-Led Blue-Black),

Waterman Blue-Black,

Diamine Royal Blue (which is also Yard-O-Led Blue),

J. Herbin Éclat de Saphir and

Omas Blue.

 

The following inks turned gray and lighter, but did not become invisible:

Boss Blue-Black,

Doctor Blue,

Hero Blue-Black,

Lamy Blue-Black,

Mont Blanc Blue-Black,

Pelikan Blue-Black,

Sheaffer Skrip Blue-Black (old, pre-Slovenia),

Uranus Blue,

Dupont Night Blue,

Hero Blue,

Namiki Blue, and

Platinum Blue (no "g," the Japanese brand).

 

The following turned magenta and lighter, but did not become invisible:

Aladine Bleu,

Campo Marzio Blu Notte, and

J. Herbin Bleu Nuit.

 

The following turned blue and lighter, but did not become invisible:

Bexley Lapis Blue, and

Rotring Ultramarine/Saxon Blue

 

The following did not change:

Duke Blue-Black (first sold as "Blue"),

Noodler's Blue-Black,

Noodler's Midnight Blue,

Noodler's Legal Lapis,

Parker Quink Blue-Black,

Pilot Blue-Black,

Private Reserve Midnight Blues,

Private Reserve Sonic Blue,

Private Reserve Black Magic Blue,

Sailor Blue-Black,

Sheaffer Skrip Blue-Black (new, Slovenia),

Swisher Blue-Black,

Noodler's/Swisher Tahitian Pearl,

Bexley Ocean Blue,

Farhney's Blue,

Levenger Cobalt Blue,

Levenger Skies of Blue,

Noodler's Navy,

Noodler's Ottoman Azure,

Noodler's Blue,

Noodler's American Eel Blue,

Noodler's Gulfstream Blue,

Panache/Hunt Blue,

Parker Penman Sapphire,

Private Reserve DC Supershow Blue,

Private Reserve American Blue,

Private Reserve Lake Placid Blue,

Sailor Blue,

Swisher Antigua Blue,

Noodler's/Swisher Eternal Glacier Blue,

Noodler's Luxury Blue, and

Swisher North Sea Blue.

 

Disclaimer: Not being eradicated by the chemical(s) in the Pelikan Super-Pirat is not a measure of either waterproofness or fraud-proofness, of course.

 

I'd like to add De Atramentis Sapphire and Inoxcrom Blue to the list of inks completely eradicated by sulphite eradicators. If Goodwhiskers wishes I can provide samples of both so he can test them himself.

 

Great compilation of inks. Thank you!

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Thanks for the updates! I'm no longer a moderator, and the list is in the middle of this thread, so someone else would have to edit the list ;) .

 

I've seen an eradicable black (in a full-sized fiber tip pen with an eradicator fiber tip at the other end) from Bic (and in the USA), an eradicable pink from Pelikan, and more recently an eradicable violet from Pelikan. Are they all eradicated by the same chemical product that gets the eradicable blue inks?

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Yes, there are non fountain pen products in other colors that are starting to come out as eradicable. But as far as strict ink for fountain pens, Pelikan the violets I've seen - Pelikan and Inoxcrom- are only partially eradicable, the Pirate eradicator leaves a slight yellowish trace, and the Pinks also from the same brands, are in fact and like the Royal Blue, totally erased by the sulphite pencil. So they should also be added to the list (but I cannot provide samples of neither pinks not violets sadly, only of the blues mentioned in the above post).

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