Sealing Sheaffer Triumph Section to Barrel

[Daniel Shih]

I've got a *hopefully* simple problem with my beloved Vac-fil Sheaffer Triumph. The barrel and section somehow came apart. There doesn't seem to be any damage to the pen; I think whatever was holding it together just came undone. After poking around the forums, I think I'm supposed to use shellac to seal the barrel and section together. Is that correct? If so, what kind of shellac should I look for at the hardware store, and how should I go about applying it? I'm a complete newbie to pen repair (and hardware stores, for that matter!), and somewhat anxious about the repair process. I'd appreciate any input. Thanks!

[fountainbel]

Hi Daniel,

"Da book" suggests to apply some rubber cement.

I've got exellent results using colorless nail varnish on the thread.

Benefit being one can break the sealing fit easily lateron.

Wishing you succes,

 

Regards, Francis

Edited December 16, 2005 by fountainbel

[Nottolino]

Hi Daniel,

I had the a slightly more serious problem of a rotating nib with that pen.

 

I found some suggestion here in this forum, but unfortunately I cannot remember the page and chronology on my present computer do not help since I was using another one. It was something about a "triumph leaking nib".

 

I restored recently one of those pen and it was the very first time for me.

I'm currently using it, even if it's like writing with a nail, so stiff the nib.

So do not be afraid to do the repair yourself.

I also used some rubber cement on the thread between barrel and nib section (2 drops are enough.

 

Since there is also fountainbel in this discussion, I would like to congratulate with him for the very good job he did for a converter for such pens.

 

His job reported here

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/in...?showtopic=4887

stimulated me to think about repairs in general, and therefore to ask you all experts to share with me your thoughts about ethics in pen repairs.

 

I'm a newbie to pens, but not to repairs in general.

Is one supposed to use original parts as much as possible?

Or is it allowed to use non original spare parts?

 

Of course shellac can be used, but also cyanoacrylic glue, silcone etc.

 

Which is the point not to go beyond, if one want to "restore" the pen ?

 

For example:

in a pen such a Sheaffer piston filler it would be better to use an o-ring at the end of the barrel, or to try to repack the unit using silicon tubing and felt?

 

PS

I hope that "restore" has the same meaning of the homologue verb in italian, used for old paintings, statues and all this kind of things.

 

In my language it has the flavour of carefully repair anything, respecting as much as possible the artist who produced the piece of art.

In other words you can "repair" your mobile phone or computer, but you are supposed to "restore" your grandfather's fountain pen.

[fountainbel]

Since there is also fountainbel in this discussion, I would like to congratulate with him for the very good job he did for a converter for such pens.

Which is the point not to go beyond, if one want to "restore" the pen ?

Hi Nottolino,

This surely is an interesting topic for discussion!

The encyclopedia Britannica determines restoring being” to put or bring back to existence of use”, while ‘renew” is entitled as “to bring back to a FORMER or ORIGINAL state. So what’s in a word or a name?

I do agree that one should preferably aim for a renewal to the original state, also for our treasured fountain pens.

There are however nuances involved:

Are you a collector storing your treasured vintage fountain pens carefully away in a drawer, enjoying looking at them from time to time?

Or are you a vintage fountain pens user, admiring their design & writing qualities as a daily user?

Real “purist collectors” MAY feel uncomfortable knowing that the pen is - at least INTERNALLY & invisible in the assembled state - not originally equipped.

On the other side most “effective users” would surely appreciate using a dependable vintage pen which will not leak over time & in which anybody can replace the sealing elements - including the piston seal! - within 10 minutes.

I also want to point out that - at least for the V1 version – there are no alternations at all executed on the pen for the introduction of the “Fountainbel” cartridge. The barrel remains untouched, allowing reintroduction of the old packing unit whenever needed.

 

Let’s ask ourselves the question: Should Sheaffer have applied modern sealing technology when it had be available at the time?

Given their proven “pioneer” record of continuous innovation I’m sure they would have!

 

Kind regards, Francis

[Nottolino]

I also want to point out that - at least for the V1 version – there are no alternations at all executed on the pen for the introduction of the “Fountainbel” cartridge. The barrel remains untouched, allowing reintroduction of the old packing unit whenever needed.

Hi Francis,

even if there's no need to say,

my previous message had no polemic intentions.

I prefer nonetheless underline it, since with e-mail misunderstanding is always possible.

Far from me to criticize your job that I appreciate a lot

(How I wish I had a lathe......................)

 

Actually I was uncomfortable with "MY" repair of similar pen, done with a standard cartridge filled with silicone washers and felt, and shellaced in place.

To may eyes, this could be a damage to the pen (drill out the packing material), while your cartridge is far better, since there's no need to modify the pen.

 

What I'm asking is some example of do's and dont's on pen repair.

 

On bike restoration for example is allowed to use some spare parts "that could have been used" in the past times.

 

For example:

my very first vintage pen was a gift from my wife.

It was an Elmo, but only now that I'm looking at the details, it seems that the blind cap is not original (slightly smaller and black instead that brown striped) and the nib is marked Tabo, that as far as I know is a contemporary brand of Elmo.

 

It was bought at flea market and it was very cheap, but from an ethic point of view can this be considered a demi-fraud?

 

I'm presently repairing (better renewing?) some cheap pens, aiming to learn some manuality, but in the meanwhile I would like to learn also what "is allowed" and what is not.

 

PS

what the hell of glue did they use at Sheaffer's for glueing the packing unit?

[whv]

back to daniel's question:

.

there is a resin-based section sealant just for this purpose available at tryphon.it - i have used it and it works well. the seal is also much easier to break than would be shellac.

[Daniel Shih]

Hi all,

 

It turns out I just needed to build up the threads so that the barrel and the section would lock. For my pen, the barrel is just a sleeve that covers the actual ink chamber, so a water tight seal wasn't necessary. I used a few layers of teflon tape on the threads and it seems to have worked marvelously. The repair is also very easily reversible, assuming the teflon tape doesn't create other problems (e.g., cracking the barrel).

 

Thanks for the input, everyone!

 

Best,

Daniel

[tryphon]

Hi all,

 

It turns out I just needed to build up the threads so that the barrel and the section would lock. For my pen, the barrel is just a sleeve that covers the actual ink chamber, so a water tight seal wasn't necessary. I used a few layers of teflon tape on the threads and it seems to have worked marvelously. The repair is also very easily reversible, assuming the teflon tape doesn't create other problems (e.g., cracking the barrel).

 

Thanks for the input, everyone!

 

Best,

Daniel

Teflon tape is considered a no-no as it puts stress on the barrel that can cause cracks down the road.

[Daniel Shih]

Doh! Giovanni, would you recommend either your special section sealant or shellac as the preferred alternative for building up the threads? And should I paint on a thin layer and then wait for it to dry, or should I put a coat of "it" on the threads and then screw in while wet?

 

Thanks!

--Daniel

[tryphon]

Doh! Giovanni, would you recommend either your special section sealant or shellac as the preferred alternative for building up the threads? And should I paint on a thin layer and then wait for it to dry, or should I put a coat of "it" on the threads and then screw in while wet?

 

Thanks!

--Daniel

Daniel, the section sealant will give the best results. If you go to any pen shows, please let me know and, if I am going to be at the show I will gladly apply some sealant to your pen, for free, of course. After all, if you only have one pen to take care of, buying a small jar of sealant may not be worth it.

In a pinch, you can use shellac (wet, do not wait until it dries), but it is really a distant second to the sealant.

[Daniel Shih]

Thanks for your response and generous offer, Giovanni. I had seen quite a few glowing recommendations for your section sealant, but I have been hesitant in ordering it for precisely the reason you gave: this is my only pen to take care of, and I'm hesitant to use my student budget when it doesn't involve food. :-)

 

I'm afraid I missed the only pen show nearby my school (SF), and I'll still be stuck at school when the Chicago show rolls around in May. This might be a shellac job, or I might have to see if any Pan Pacific Pen Club members have some of your sealant around. Thanks again!