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My new 0.8 mm stub nib from Richard Binder


Jeff Muscato

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But exactly what kind of italic is the Pelikan nib? How does it compare to *proper* cursive italic from a genuine nibmeister (Richard's CI is no different to Mottishaw's CI - their nibs are the standard to which you judge other nibs against.)

 

What I'm saying is that I would imagine that a Pelikan Cursive Italic is going to be an "italic for the masses" and as user-friendly as possible - e.g. as smooth as possible and designed to be a cause of as few returns as possible. Therefore, it might not be correct to call it a stub, or stub-like nib...

 

Just something to consider.

Edited by Phthalo

Laura / Phthalo

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Actually... I'm confused... I just re-read your post, and you say it's a stub, then you mention your "other cursive italic" - can you clarify?

 

A Stub is different to a Cursive Italic, and when people say "Italic" they are generally referring to a Crisp Italic which is a different nib again...

Laura / Phthalo

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Actually... I'm confused... I just re-read your post, and you say it's a stub, then you mention your "other cursive italic" - can you clarify?

 

A Stub is different to a Cursive Italic, and when people say "Italic" they are generally referring to a Crisp Italic which is a different nib again...

I'm sorry for the unclarity: As all three (cursive italic, crisp italic, and stub italic) are italic, I used the word "other." (I should have put a comma after "other.") This pen from Richard is my first stub.

 

The cursive italic from Pelikan is very smooth, very wet, and pretty sloppy looping. I have some crisper (but not true calligraphic) italic nibs from John Mottishaw, but I was looking for something smaller for taking notes around financial reports. (I understand that a F or XF would be best, but I like italic writing.)

 

Here's a comparison of one of the crisper italic nibs from John Mottishaw and the stock Pelikan italic (on the right). You can see how much sloppier it is; I suppose it could be useful for signatures but I usually prefer the more elegant, crisper look even for those.

 

http://www.getCIT.com/files/jeff/IMG_0513_m600-m200_comparison_letterhead_paper.jpg

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Pelikan has recently begun making M200s with steel italic nibs:

http://www.fahrneyspens.com/Item--i-363101S

Interesting. If you compare the line variation with Richard Binder's are they similar, or is the width ratio of thick vertical lines to thin horizontal lines greater on his. I found that his had slightly more line variation than two other nib grinders I tried.

 

Also, what is this about "semi-flexible" plated nib? Are they trying to say that the tines spread under reasonable writing pressure? Or even merely that their steel nib is soft or springy? Neither is my experience of Pelikan. (But then I did not find that Esterbrook's steel flex nib was responsive until one used much greater pressure to write with than I would think reasonable.)

BruceW

There are times when you know the truth, and it is liberating. But other times you are so used to the shackles that you wait for the truth to vanish like a dream at waking.

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I started a reply, writing about my nibs, comparing them to my other nibs. . .

 

And I realized that nibs are a preference. If you think the nib is toothy, send it back to Richard and have him work on it for you.

 

 

Fool: One who subverts convention or orthodoxy or varies from social conformity in order to reveal spiritual or moral truth.

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Nevermind. Answer was in title. :)

Edited by Deirdre

deirdre.net

"Heck we fed a thousand dollar pen to a chicken because we could." -- FarmBoy, about Pen Posse

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I'm actually a little hesitant to bother him because I bought this steel nib from his ready-to-go list just to try a new kind of nib, so it's not as if it's custom work with which I'm unhappy.

 

I know that Richard will happily stand behind any product you buy from him including any and all "ready-to-go" products!

Edited by framebaer

Sensitive Pen Restoration doesn't cost extra.

 

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Here's a comparison of one of the crisper italic nibs from John Mottishaw and the stock Pelikan italic (on the right). You can see how much sloppier it is; I suppose it could be useful for signatures but I usually prefer the more elegant, crisper look even for those.

 

http://www.getCIT.com/files/jeff/IMG_0513_m600-m200_comparison_letterhead_paper.jpg

For reference, what size of crisp italic did you get?

I don't know exactly; he started with a BB nib but he ground it to an italic himself. Using the writing sample above and this sample of the M200's stock italic nib, you can compare the two. Below that photo is a photo of the two nibs together. (The M600's is very slightly oblique; the the M200's is not.)

 

http://www.getCIT.com/files/jeff/IMG_0085.JPG

 

http://www.getCIT.com/files/jeff/IMG_0515_m200italic-m600italic.jpg

Edited by Jeff Muscato
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Pelikan has recently begun making M200s with steel italic nibs:

http://www.fahrneyspens.com/Item--i-363101S

Interesting. If you compare the line variation with Richard Binder's are they similar, or is the width ratio of thick vertical lines to thin horizontal lines greater on his. I found that his had slightly more line variation than two other nib grinders I tried.

 

Also, what is this about "semi-flexible" plated nib? Are they trying to say that the tines spread under reasonable writing pressure? Or even merely that their steel nib is soft or springy? Neither is my experience of Pelikan. (But then I did not find that Esterbrook's steel flex nib was responsive until one used much greater pressure to write with than I would think reasonable.)

I suppose I was expecting less line variation (and thus a smoother, more forgiving feel). (That's why I chose a stub instead of a cursive italic.)

 

About its flexibility, I've never used a real flexible nib so I can't compare, but the tines spread only under extreme, deliberate pressure on downstrokes. Never during normal writing have I had them spread noticeably.

Edited by Jeff Muscato
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Regarding the smoothness of a Binder nib, I have not had any issues with his nibs, whether custom or bought from his stock. I do think it is appropriate to return the nib, with the pen, to him for smoothing and installation.

 

If it were me, I would just smooth the nib myself. I am NOT an expert. I have a simple smoothing kit that I acquired from Tryphon Enterprizes. I have gotten a couple nibs from sources other than Richard that were not as smooth as I would like, so I used my handy-dandy kit and carefully smoothed them. It did not take much effort or time, but it did require patience and I got exactly what I wanted.

 

Regarding the Pelikan factory italic nibs, I have been under the impression that they are a newer product and available for the M-200 only. If I am wrong in that assumption, I welcome being corrected. I have factory italic nibs on a set of Pelikan "Script" calligraphy pens, and they are quite nice. I have a preference for M-800 and M-1000 pens for which there are no factory italic nibs that I know of. That absence of factory italic nibs has been the single issue with Pelikan pens that really irks me! All of my Pel italics were done by Richard.

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I know some friends who were and are very happy of richard binder's work on their fountain pens. I think he is one of the best nibmeisters along with john mottishaw, I can only recommend him.

Pens are like watches , once you start a collection, you can hardly go back. And pens like all fine luxury items do improve with time

 

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