Montblanc 149 gasket replacement.

[BubbaT]

I have an old Meiserstuck 149, that leaks like crazy.

 

It started to leak when I unscrewed the nib to give it a cleaning and unfortunately the rubber gasket just tore

to shreds. Is there something that I can replace it with?

 

 

PS Where does the gasket go? Is it at the bottom of the part that you unscrew?

 

Update:

Ok I feel stupid. Since I was asking about this today, I decided to clean the pen which I had been neglecting.

I am taking a Qtip into the body to clean out some dried ink when it seemed like the threads broke off.

Uh no. Turns out the pen is not two part like I thought, a body and a nib. But three parts a body, a thread part and a nib.

The thread part goes on a collar on the body, the nib screws in collar and holds the thread part to the body.

 

The thread part is also held by some sort of plastic caulk, which I guess goes up over the outside of the nib part and prevents

leaks. Anyone know what that caulk is?

 

 

Edited February 3, 2008 by BubbaT

[niksch]

Can you post any photos so we could see what you've gotten yourself into? That would give us a better idea of how to help.

 

Eric

[BubbaT]

Can you post any photos so we could see what you've gotten yourself into? That would give us a better idea of how to help.

 

Eric

 

First off, I didn't "get" myself into anything. The pen is in essentially the same state it was in before the nib was put on during manufacturing.

The thing is that the compound keep the thread sleeve on, so I thought the pen had two parts the nib part ( I'm not sure of it is a section technically ), and the body. Cleening the body I discovered that it is three parts, the nib, the body and a sleeve which has the threads for the cap.

 

At this point I can't take photos, but I am attacting a diagram illustrating what I am saying.

[fsnsaber]

##edit##

Edited February 11, 2008 by fsnsaber

[Tom Pike]

For a vintage MB question, I'd suggest contacting either Tom Westerich twesterich@penboard.de, or Gary Lehrer garylehrer@aol.com.

 

I think if you sent your drawing and question to either of these gentlemen, they would respond.

 

 

Cheers,

Tom

 

PS - Please let us know what you learn...

[BubbaT]

For a vintage MB question, I'd suggest contacting either Tom Westerich twesterich@penboard.de, or Gary Lehrer garylehrer@aol.com.

 

I think if you sent your drawing and question to either of these gentlemen, they would respond.

 

 

Cheers,

Tom

 

PS - Please let us know what you learn...

I believe it's circa 1995.

But who knows, it may have been in the store a while before I bought it. Though not likely.

[niksch]

First off, I didn't "get" myself into anything. ...snip

 

Okay then...Good Luck.

[sztainbok]

I just replaced the gasket on my MB 142. I attempted doing it two ways. Using a proper cork gasket replacement, the piston moved tight but didn't fill. I then tried using an O-ring backed by a rigid tube to get the same thickness as with the cork seal, and it worked perfectly well.

I would appreciate some input into how to do an original repair using a cork gasket. Thank you. Victor.

 

 

This arrangement worked

 

 

This did not work

[Chrissy]

I just replaced the gasket on my MB 142. I attempted doing it two ways. Using a proper cork gasket replacement, the piston moved tight but didn't fill. I then tried using an O-ring backed by a rigid tube to get the same thickness as with the cork seal, and it worked perfectly well.

I would appreciate some input into how to do an original repair using a cork gasket. Thank you. Victor.

 

IMG_0901.JPG

This arrangement worked

 

IMG_0900.JPG

This did not work

 

Unfortunately you revived a 2008 thread about replacing a gasket on a Montblanc 149 pen.

In order to get the correct assistance that you need, I think you should start a new thread asking about your Montblanc 142 pen

[fountainbel]

I just replaced the gasket on my MB 142. I attempted doing it two ways. Using a proper cork gasket replacement, the piston moved tight but didn't fill. I then tried using an O-ring backed by a rigid tube to get the same thickness as with the cork seal, and it worked perfectly well.

I would appreciate some input into how to do an original repair using a cork gasket. Thank you. Victor.

 

IMG_0901.JPG

This arrangement worked

 

IMG_0900.JPG

This did not work

 

Hi,

The cork seal should be snug fitted on its piston seat ,and when mounted on its seat being 0.15 to 0.20 mm larger in diameter als the barrel bore.The inner an outer cork diameters should also be concentric . I could be wrong, but looking a your picture I have the impression the cork is not concentric. (Cork looks flush with the enclosure nut at the upper side, or is it my old eyes?)

Francis

[sztainbok]

Hi Francis, may be you see the misalignment because of the picture, the cork is concentric. I noticed when I removed the cork that a ridge formed on the outer edges of the cork, probably caused by the compression of the nut. Also it appears that the cork offered more difficulty for the piston to move and with the o-ring the movement was smoother as if the cork was too tight inside the barrel.

In both cases I applied liquid Vaseline.

[siamackz]

Well the cork seems fine. Two way street to adjust the width to ensure a secure seal but not too tight:

1. To reduce friction or make looser, use Sanding paper to reduce the outer diameter

2. To increase the width slightly and make a tighter fit inside, tighten the cork nut

 

Youll need to adjust a few times using either 1 or 2.

 

From what I hear on FPN forums, cork is more appropriate for celluloid barrels as they age over time because cork has some give and will adjust as the celluloid changes shape ever so slightly. I dont know

[CS388]

Did you treat the cork with wax, or oil? A 'raw' cork may have friction issues, which may cause the problems you outline.

 

If the O-ring works fine, why not keep it? I've seen (and own) celluloid Meisterstucks fitted with elastomer seals, which have worked perfectly for years. (Pic attached)

 

As Chrissy points out, you may get more replies if you start a new thread, about your specific case?

 

Good luck.

 

Edited December 14, 2017 by CS388

[siamackz]

Did you treat the cork with wax, or oil? A 'raw' cork may have friction issues, which may cause the problems you outline.

 

If the O-ring works fine, why not keep it? I've seen (and own) celluloid Meisterstucks fitted with elastomer seals, which have worked perfectly for years. (Pic attached)

 

As Chrissy points out, you may get more replies if you start a new thread, about your specific case?

 

Good luck.

 

Good point!

 

I learned from earlier posts, and Francis, to cook the cork in a 50:50micture of beeswax and liquid paraffin wax (the mineral oil, not the fuel!). There are many posts explaining how to cook, not much to it. Cooking will ensure holes or pits are covered.

 

I just finished re corking my celluloid 146 yesterday. I was about to document the process but felt lazy! If the cork doesnt hold Ill re do it and document and share.

[sztainbok]

Thanks everybody for the input.

I don't know how important it is to make this repair with original materials. For now I will keep the o-ring as CS388 suggests.

Victor.

[slippery when wet]

It's important you don't boil the wax otherwise it will badly distort the cork, I find a very light simmer works well