In Place Of Shellac ?

[Mangrove Jack]

I live in Sri Lanka and shellac is not available here. I need to secure the section of a Parker 51 MK111 pen that comes loose.

Please could you tell me what may be used to lightly thread-lock the section in the absence of shellac ?

Edited October 20, 2020 by Mangrove Jack

[joss]

Shellac is traditionally used to polish wood so I would be surprised that you don't find this in Sri Lanka. You may have to check with woodwork shops, they may sell shellac as dry granules or flakes from which you make your own shellac solution.

[Kenlowe]

I would ask Causeway Paints Lanka or Dharmatne and Co if they can help.

 

Is this for a Parker 51?

[Mangrove Jack]

Yes it is for a P51 MK III.

[Kenlowe]

Yes it is for a P51 MK III.

 

Not everyone uses shellac on the 51 section, I think Ron Zorn has produced some specialist notes on this as a pinned thread. You can buy this from UK suppliers but the cost of postage is so high for what might be a single use.

 

I would try some paint and woodwork suppliers and take a small container with you, they might just give you a spoonfull from their supplies.

[Ron Z]

Shellac is the preferred adhesive for sacs, except for silicone sacs, and has been since the days of self filling pens. It doesn't have to be fancy stuff either. I was firmly convinced when Richard Binder and I went into the Sheaffer service center before it closed in 2008, and there on the floor of the fountain pen repair station was a gall on can of Zinsser orange shellac. There's a blog post about it here.

 

In the OP's case, they may have to order some shellac flakes from over seas, and then mix it themselves, using denatured alcohol as the solvent.

 

Rubber cement, as in the stuff most of us think of for use with paper doesn't work. I've tried it. I don't know if the adhesive used in a tire patch kit would or not, but it is a different formula. For silicone sacs you need a non-corrosive RTV silicone adhesive, which is what the thread mentioned was about.

 

I can not in any way recommend nail polish for securing sacs. Other adhesives may be usable in all hard rubber pens, but you have to be really careful when working on plastic and celluloid pens because some of the solvents used in the adhesives can also soften or damage the plastic/celluloid materials used in pens.

[Alan-Marshall]

A supplier I have bought from recommends rosin sealant instead of shellac. I'd be interested in Ron's comments on this product.

 

I have a small jar, and would be happy to put a bit in some cellophane and mail it to Mangrove Jack, the OP.

[Ron Z]

Straight rosin, or a rosin thread sealant? I have, and use both for different purposes. I don't think that either is appropriate for attaching sacs. If straight rosin you have to soften it to spread it, and rosin based thread sealant is too soft and fluid to use as an adhesive for sacs. It has the consistency of honey.

 

Take a look at the article in the link above. The pen manufacturers used (and some still use) shellac, and is in most cases readily available.

[Aysedasi]

The OP talked about securing a P51 section, from which I'm guessing he means the shell/hood?

[pajaro]

There has been some discussion about using rosin to secure Parker 51 hoods in lieu of shellac. Some like rosin for hood sealing and securing, but I believe the repairers' consensus was for shellac, because it secures the hood more firmly and keeps the average person (myself and the other end users) from removing the hood and damaging the works. Of course, any end user with a hair dryer can loosen the hold of the shellac by applying heat (and sometimes melting plastics I have melted a couple of hoods.).

[Ron Z]

My mistake. Rosin based thread sealant can be used to seal a 51 hood, but I still use shellac because it keeps the amateur or curious from screwing up the nib/hood alignment.

 

I would think that shellac would be easier to get hold of than the rosin sealant though.

 

And before someone suggests it, no, don't use silicone grease. Silicone grease is a lubricant, and it makes it much easier to over tighten the hood, which can cause stress cracks along the edge. Any "sealing" properties come from its hydrophobic properties - it really isn't sealing at all.

[Alan-Marshall]

Thank you.

[Mangrove Jack]

Thank you all for your replies and advice. Much appreciated. I have temporarily solved my problem of the loose grip section (hood) on my P51 MK III with some dental floss and home made flour paste/glue.

It seems to work fine and will come off when required with a bit of soaking in water.

 

A supplier I have bought from recommends rosin sealant instead of shellac. I'd be interested in Ron's comments on this product.

 

I have a small jar, and would be happy to put a bit in some cellophane and mail it to Mangrove Jack, the OP.

Thank you Alan for your kind offer. The post these days is a bit crazy and it may not reach me; next time maybe I will take you up on your offer.

[pajaro]

You can buy the Sheaffer formula thread sealant from Main Street Pens (Ron Zorn) under the "Stuff" heading on the web site. I don't have any idea what the shipping would be to you.

[Kenlowe]

You can buy the Sheaffer formula thread sealant from Main Street Pens (Ron Zorn) under the "Stuff" heading on the web site. I don't have any idea what the shipping would be to you.

 

 

Shellac is easily available in India and very cheaply with low shipping costs to Sri Lanka

 

https://dir.indiamart.com/impcat/shellac-flakes.html

 

It would appear that the Op has found something which is acceptable to them

[Ron Z]

It would appear that the Op has found something which is acceptable to them

 

...and which scares me. I've seen more damage to pens because a material that was handy and expedient to use was applied rather than wait for the right stuff to arrive.

 

Dental floss is quite thick compared to the threads of the hood. Clearance is often quite close. The outward pressure on the relatively thin shell as you tighten it can cause it to crack. Not theory here - I've seen the results of such things. That's one of the (many) reasons why I don't like Teflon tape in pen repair.

 

A hand made paste may be appropriate for paper or wood, but not for a fountain pen. It isn't water proof, but both shellac and rosin based thread sealant are.

 

[Kenlowe]

You can lead a horse to water..........................

[Mangrove Jack]

...and which scares me. I've seen more damage to pens because a material that was handy and expedient to use was applied rather than wait for the right stuff to arrive.

 

Dental floss is quite thick compared to the threads of the hood. Clearance is often quite close. The outward pressure on the relatively thin shell as you tighten it can cause it to crack. Not theory here - I've seen the results of such things. That's one of the (many) reasons why I don't like Teflon tape in pen repair.

 

A hand made paste may be appropriate for paper or wood, but not for a fountain pen. It isn't water proof, but both shellac and rosin based thread sealant are.

 

To be honest it scares me too. The dental floss was just one wrap 360 degrees on the outermost thread to prevent the hood from going beyond the "perfect alignment with the nib" point when tightened. Basically it acts as a washer.

The flour paste gum is easily dissolved in water and can be removed whenever I want with ease. It just prevents the hood from coming lose during use. Only I will be using the pen and it's just temporary till I lay my hands on shellac here.

[Mangrove Jack]

Shellac is easily available in India and very cheaply with low shipping costs to Sri Lanka

 

https://dir.indiamart.com/impcat/shellac-flakes.html

 

It would appear that the Op has found something which is acceptable to them

Thanks Ken. I will follow up on this from India.

[FarmBoy]

To be honest it scares me too. The dental floss was just one wrap 360 degrees on the outermost thread to prevent the hood from going beyond the "perfect alignment with the nib" point when tightened. Basically it acts as a washer.

The flour paste gum is easily dissolved in water and can be removed whenever I want with ease. It just prevents the hood from coming lose during use. Only I will be using the pen and it's just temporary till I lay my hands on shellac here.

Wouldn’t it be possible to rotate the nib/feed/collector to get correct alignment instead of using string as a washer/spacer to stop rotation early?