Jump to content

What is a "sheen" ink?


Eoghan2009

Recommended Posts

I had a friend write me with Diamine "smoke on the water", produced in Liverpool but only available in Germany - go figure!

 

It seems to be basically two colours that don't mix and come out the nib as two colours. It is described as a "sheen" ink. What is a sheen ink and how do they work?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 22
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Eoghan2009

    5

  • A Smug Dill

    5

  • amberleadavis

    2

  • tartuffo

    2

What I think happens with sheen inks is that the solution is so saturated with dye that, while drying, crystallization takes place in some parts of the written line. You can then see the base (uncrystallized) color together with the sheeny (crystallized) color.

 

Whether sheen shows is extremely paper/pen/ink combo dependant. Tomoe river is VERY conducive, as are wet/broader nibs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My understanding of sheen is simply that some component dye that dried unabsorbed by the substrate (usually paper), but sits on top of the page's surface, reflects light bouncing off it at an angle to appear a different colour from the base/primary ink colour. If the piece of paper you're using is relatively less absorbent, either because of the way it is produced (e.g. hot press) or because of how it is coated, then you're more likely to observe sheen from an ink. Or, taking it to the extreme, if you write on stone paper or even a sheet of glass, you'll see sheen from an ink that has such a dye component; in fact you may already have seen sheen on the rim and/or threads of your ink bottles.

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Light reflects off the page through the layer of dye and we perceive the color. I always thought that in heavily saturated inks the dye components dry in separate layers and the light reflecting up through the overlapping layers is what produces the appearance of different colors(s), i.e. the sheen. Eclpse's crystalization theory probably makes more sense, however.

It's hard work to tell which is Old Harry when everybody's got boots on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ordered Diamine Majestic Blue, its available in the UK and had a good review at Goulet Pens (YouTube)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cult pens also has 4 sheening inks ( uk exclusive) from diamine.

Oxford blue and a few inks from diamine inkvent series are sheening as well( noel, polar blue etc etc).

Or try kwz Walk over Vistula, Baltic memories, sheen machine.

 

You may order German exclusive inks from fountainfeder they ship single bottles as well... I think it was 4 euros for 1-2 bottles.

 

These inks are very saturated and hence have nice flow...but on certain papers they take a long time to dry and have tendency to smudge( only on certain papers).

Edited by vikrmbedi
Link to comment
Share on other sites

To add to what has already been said...the color of sheen that you get does not mean that the ink has a dye component of that color. For example, a blue ink with red sheen does not need to have a red dye to produce the sheen: the sheen is the light interacting with the blue. That doesn't mean that there isn't also some red dye in the ink.

 

For some reason, blue inks will typically have red sheen. Red inks gold sheen. There are other patterns as well. I'm not sure if those are hard rules, though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As Eclipse157 said, it can be VERY paper dependent. For instance, I have gotten Noodler's Kung Te Cheng to sheen on very slick, non-absorbent paper (when I first tried it, it was on crummy absorbent Piccadilly sketchbook paper, and was flat and chalky looking).

OTOH, I was able to pick up a bottle of KWZI Chicago Blue (an LE ink made for the Chicago Pen Show a few years ago), which is one of the "blue shining red" inks -- and I even got sheen on the Piccadilly paper.

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

"It's very nice, but frankly, when I signed that list for a P-51, what I had in mind was a fountain pen."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My understanding of sheen is simply that some component dye that dried unabsorbed by the substrate (usually paper), but sits on top of the page's surface, reflects light bouncing off it at an angle to appear a different colour from the base/primary ink colour. If the piece of paper you're using is relatively less absorbent, either because of the way it is produced (e.g. hot press) or because of how it is coated, then you're more likely to observe sheen from an ink. Or, taking it to the extreme, if you write on stone paper or even a sheet of glass, you'll see sheen from an ink that has such a dye component; in fact you may already have seen sheen on the rim and/or threads of your ink bottles.

I have a new chemistry lab to construct... Thanks.

Festina lente

Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cult pens also has 4 sheening inks ( uk exclusive) from diamine.

 

Five Iridescink colours, actually; and some of the Diamine Blue Edition inks are designated as shining inks.

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The more strongly light is absorbed, the more it is reflected. In normal concentrations blue ink scatters blue light and absorbs red and green light. But if the dye is sufficiently concentrated the red and green can start to reflect.

 

It sounds peculiar, but consider a guitar string: if you pinch it strongly over the hard metal of a fret, any string movement at that point is completely absorbed. The result is that the wave just bounces backwards off the fret towards the bridge and you get a standing wave. If you hold the string more loosely the wave is not reflected and the energy dissipates.

 

Metals are reflective because they conduct: the electric field in light waves hitting the metal surface is short-circuited - analogous to pinching the guitar string - so the wave is reflected.

 

Inks tend to sheen if they're allowed to pool on the surface of smooth paper. As they dry out the dye becomes more and more concentrated until (depending on the dye type) it becomes dense enough to reflect. The reflected colour is made up of the light that the ink would normally absorb, so you can't get a blue ink to sheen blue.

 

Footnote:

Certain materials are known for being extremely black. How does that work, if strongly absorbing light causes it to be reflected? They work by having a very rough matte surface, so that any reflected light is likely to be scattered back into the surface for another chance to be absorbed. The description above is for smooth surfaces.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

I have after two months got my sheen on 160gsm Colotech+ paper.  Nothing else seems to work but I am getting a sheen with a wet nib on 160gsm.  The same paper however in 100gsm does not generate a sheen???????

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Eoghan2009 said:

The same paper however in 100gsm does not generate a sheen?

 

I suspect you're conflating “the same brand of paper” with ”the same paper”. A manufacturer and/or owner of a brand can make very different product lines; Canson 96gsm Graduate Sketching paper is (or behaves) nothing like Canson 250gsm Graduate Watercolour paper, in spite of having the same brand (Canson) and product family (Graduate) names.

 

Treat each type of paper as simply different from each other. The two aforementioned Canson papers are different from each other; and so are Canson and Arttec ‘mixed media’ art papers, even if they happen to have the same gsm paper weight.

 

Not even Tomoe River 52gsm white paper and Tomoe River 68gsm cream-coloured paper behave similarly. Or TR 52gsm white paper vs TR 68gsm white paper. Or even TR 52gsm from early 2019 vs TR 52gsm from late 2020. Make the gradations and your sensitivity to differences as fine as possible, and make the selection as discerning (and as onerous or taxing) as possible, if you're after a particular result that you want to obtain consistently.

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/24/2020 at 2:04 PM, A Smug Dill said:

 

I suspect you're conflating

The Xerox Colotech+ paper comes in different weights, I use the 100gsm for international airmail and the 160gsm for domestic correspondence where weight is less of a problem.

 

In my limited experience of sheen inks 100gsm does not cut it where 160gsm does.  The only other paper I have noticed  sheen on is on a receipt from my bank where I scribbled an annotation.  I suspect it has a lot to do with how the ink dries rather than the specific weight of the paper.

 

If anyone else has experience with sheen inks I would be interested in hearing from them regarding the type of paper they use. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

30 minutes ago, Eoghan2009 said:

If anyone else has experience with sheen inks I would be interested in hearing from them regarding the type of paper they use. 

 

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/28/2020 at 1:32 PM, A Smug Dill said:

 

Have you seen anything in common with these papers?  Are there papers that don't produce a sheen in your experience?

 

😞

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/30/2020 at 10:11 AM, Eoghan2009 said:

Have you seen anything in common with these papers?

 

I don't know what to say in answer to that. They're all paper. Apart from the Rhodia, which is made in France, the rest are made in Japan — because that is what I look for specifically, when I shop in Daiso and Muji — but I've also encountered Japanese-made paper of the same brands and/or in the same shops that perform very poorly with fountain pen ink. They are all relatively lightweight paper ≤80gsm, but then I've used ≥210gsm mixed media paper (from France and Australia) that show sheen, so it's not the paper weight that counts. (Keep in mind, also, that the Tomoe River paper that attracts such adulation and fanboyism from hordes of sheen-chasers is 52gsm.) Cold press versus hot press? Coated in a particular manner versus not? I can't really speak to that aspect.

 

On 12/30/2020 at 10:11 AM, Eoghan2009 said:

Are there papers that don't produce a sheen in your experience?

 

Plenty.

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/4/2020 at 3:41 PM, tim77 said:

The more strongly light is absorbed, the more it is reflected. In normal concentrations blue ink scatters blue light and absorbs red and green light. But if the dye is sufficiently concentrated the red and green can start to reflect.

 

It sounds peculiar, but consider a guitar string: if you pinch it strongly over the hard metal of a fret, any string movement at that point is completely absorbed. The result is that the wave just bounces backwards off the fret towards the bridge and you get a standing wave. If you hold the string more loosely the wave is not reflected and the energy dissipates.

 

Metals are reflective because they conduct: the electric field in light waves hitting the metal surface is short-circuited - analogous to pinching the guitar string - so the wave is reflected.

 

Inks tend to sheen if they're allowed to pool on the surface of smooth paper. As they dry out the dye becomes more and more concentrated until (depending on the dye type) it becomes dense enough to reflect. The reflected colour is made up of the light that the ink would normally absorb, so you can't get a blue ink to sheen blue.

 

Footnote:

Certain materials are known for being extremely black. How does that work, if strongly absorbing light causes it to be reflected? They work by having a very rough matte surface, so that any reflected light is likely to be scattered back into the surface for another chance to be absorbed. The description above is for smooth surfaces.

Very insightful post. I gather that you are a physics major/studied physics? Nice explanation of the photoelectric effect without hand waving the physics too much.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you check out the Inky Topics of the Day - look for the thread about sheen.  We have a couple of sheen threads but you will see the one about how to get sheen.

 

Fountain pens are my preferred COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM (in part because crayons melt in Las Vegas).

Create a Ghostly Avatar and I'll send you a letter. Check out some Ink comparisons: The Great PPS Comparison 

Don't know where to start?  Look at the Inky Topics O'day.  Then, see inks sorted by color: Blue Purple Brown Red Green Dark Green Orange Black Pinks Yellows Blue-Blacks Grey/Gray UVInks Turquoise/Teal MURKY

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33559
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26744
    5. jar
      jar
      26101
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...