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Schmidt K5 Converter

schmidt k5 kaco converter

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6 replies to this topic

#1 Dip n Scratch

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Posted 14 August 2020 - 23:06

I have a kaco Master and I have noted ink feed issues in that surface-tension stops the ink dropping down to the bottom of the OE converter. I was wondering if it is possible to remove the piston assembly of the Schmidt converter in order to insert a tiny spring to serve as an agitator. I have a suitable spring from a converter from a Hero 2065 I broke up.



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#2 tinta

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Posted 14 August 2020 - 23:51

AKAIR (Remember) the metal sleeve can be backed off.  I used a rather sticky pair of Neoprene gloves, firmly grabbing the sleeve & the converter barrel.  For the last three or four years I have not had pens that fit a K5.  I have been able to take apart the Schmidt K5, the Kaweco Standard & the Sailor Standard converters.  Kitchen gloves work too.


*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14c. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14c. H-B "M" BLS (PB) *2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14c. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 1.1 mm. CI (JM) *Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14c. (factory) "H-B" *Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14c.,-0.6 mm BLS, (PB) *Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14c "M" -0.4 mm.BLS, (PB)

#3 Dip n Scratch

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Posted 15 August 2020 - 07:15

Does it unscrew? Because that is what I thought. I was also going to introduce a tiny scrap of wire.

All I want is to rotate the pen in my hand to make the ink drop to the outlet of the converter.



#4 praxim

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Posted 15 August 2020 - 07:26

I have done what you are wishing to do. My recollection is that I could disassemble it easily and reassemble securely, which suggests it is a screw attachment.


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#5 tinta

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Posted 15 August 2020 - 21:32

Does it unscrew? Because that is what I thought. I was also going to introduce a tiny scrap of wire.

All I want is to rotate the pen in my hand to make the ink drop to the outlet of the converter.

Yes the sleeve unscrews on most converters.

 

Once you disassemble the converter unit, it may be best to scrub the inside wall of its tube.  I dip a cotton swab in an ammonia-based pen flush & run this up & down the tube, then flush with RO water.

 

Some of my Sailor units had a lot of manufacturing residue inside their tubes.  My Kaweco converters used to fill with bubbles instead of a proper ink filling.  A thorough inside cleaning has helped both units fill more efficiently.   Don't forget wiping the plunger gasket.

The K5s also benefited from this kind of cleaning.

 

I had tried inserting various objects inside converters (cannibalized universal cart beads, ss & other metal beads, glass beads,  spring coils) with various levels of success.  The unfortunate problem with all these devices is that they take take up a large piece of real estate inside a very small tube.  You will lose filling capacity.

 

When filling your C/C pen, it is good to cycle your plunger up & down a number of times, with the nib immersed in the bottle.  You are forcing out air & allowing your feed to fill with ink.  You may notice that as you do this the level of ink will increase in the converter tube.  Once the tube is almost filled, remove & wipe the nib of ink. 

Express two drops of ink back into the bottle, then point your nib at the ceiling.  Back off the plunger, while watching the ink disappear from the feed's vanes into the section.  When you can draw back no further,  wipe & you're done.  Check to see if your ink is moving normally inside the converter.

 

***Before I fill a converter, I always check to see if the converter is tightly attached to the feed's nipple.  Push-on type international connections aren't as secure as say a Sailor's.  I also make sure that the collars at the rear of the converters are screwed on tight.***

 

Best of luck.

tinta


*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14c. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14c. H-B "M" BLS (PB) *2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14c. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 1.1 mm. CI (JM) *Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14c. (factory) "H-B" *Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14c.,-0.6 mm BLS, (PB) *Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14c "M" -0.4 mm.BLS, (PB)

#6 hari317

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Posted 23 August 2020 - 06:33

fpn_1598164167__5508bcb2-7bc2-489d-9591-

The metal collar is threaded on. The factory uses a thread locking compound to hold it in place. With the aid of a rubber sheet it can be easily unscrewed. Then you simply slide out the mechanism and do what has to be done.
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#7 tinta

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Posted 23 August 2020 - 20:09

fpn_1598164167__5508bcb2-7bc2-489d-9591-

The metal collar is threaded on. The factory uses a thread locking compound to hold it in place. With the aid of a rubber sheet it can be easily unscrewed. Then you simply slide out the mechanism and do what has to be done.

  :thumbup:   A picture is worth a thousand words. 

In so many words, I tried to express the same as above. 


*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14c. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14c. H-B "M" BLS (PB) *2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14c. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 1.1 mm. CI (JM) *Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14c. (factory) "H-B" *Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14c.,-0.6 mm BLS, (PB) *Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14c "M" -0.4 mm.BLS, (PB)





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