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Ink Which Has Moderate Thickness ?


rosa_m

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Germany Schmidt, recommends customers to use ink which has moderate thickness. For example, the cartridges from Pelikan, Waterman, Faber-Castell etc.

 

What are some other inks that are considered moderately thick ?

 

 

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That strikes me as a very bizarre recommendation. Is that a translation from somewhere? Do you have more context?

 

And I'm not sure I would call Waterman or Faber-Castell "moderate thickness". They're inks and seem pretty watery (not in a bad way) to me.

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The whole description sounds like a slightly iffy translation, so it's hard to tell what they mean. I would have guessed wetness but Pelikan and Waterman are almost opposites in that regard. I believe Cross is just rebranded Pelikan 4001 IIRC?

 

They're probably just suggesting the ol' reliables to be safe, so customers don't put Baystate Blue in there, then come back to complain if it does something peculiar to the pen.

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I found Pelikan dry with this nib and Gv Faber-Castell Carbon Black just right .

I will try Waterman Intense Black and maybe a few other brands just out of curiosity .

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Can the translators' intention be moderate intensity or more logically moderate (neutral) pH inks?

 

Pelikan, Waterman, normal Cross (which is rebranded 4001 IIRC) and normal Faber Castell are pretty safe, neutral pH inks.

 

If so,you can also try some Noodler's inks with "Always pH neutral" property. Also Lamy's black is around pH 7, which is like water. Kaweco will also enter into this list as well as Parker.

Edited by bayindirh
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From Pen Chalet :

https://www.penchalet.com/pen_faq/best_fountain_pen_ink_for_fountain_pen.html

 

"Fountain pen inks vary in viscosity. This simply means some are more "wet" or "dry". Wetter inks have a faster flow while dry inks have a slower flow and more surface tension. Wetter inks include Omas Technical ink Blue, Noodlers Ink Widow Maker, or Aurora black. Dryer inks include Pelikan 4001, Noodler's Black or Lamy blue or black."

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I'm thinking that the usage instructions may simply be saying , don't use an ink that is too wet or too dry .

But then Pelikan 4001 is considered by many a dryer ink .

As mentioned in a prior email the Graf von Faber Castell Carbon Black works well .

Just out of curiosity I will contact Kenro and Yaffa .

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The companies on that list all sell not only inks, but also pens.

So I would guess that any ink that is made by a company that also makes pens would qualify.

My guess is that companies that make pens would design/manufacture their inks in such a way that they are unlikely to damage or clog pens, in order to minimise any warranty claims.

I.e. if you buy a pen made by ‘Acme Inc.’ you should find that an ink made by ‘Acme, Inc.’ should work in it without causing any problems - because otherwise ‘Acme Inc.’ would always be having to pay to repair lots of pens that got damaged by their own ink.

All fountain pens function by the same working principle (capillary flow), and so all contain narrow channels of comparable/similar widths. As such, all pen-manufacturers’ inks should be of comparable/similar viscosity/‘thickness’.

 

Other companies that make pens AND inks would include Parker, Visconti, Aurora, Sailor, Pilot, Platinum, Montblanc, Diplomat, LAMY, Sheaffer, and Cross.

And I bet that I’ve forgotten some others that are really famous!

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From Pen Chalet :

https://www.penchale...untain_pen.html

"Fountain pen inks vary in viscosity. This simply means some are more "wet" or "dry". Wetter inks have a faster flow while dry inks have a slower flow and more surface tension. Wetter inks include Omas Technical ink Blue, Noodlers Ink Widow Maker, or Aurora black. Dryer inks include Pelikan 4001, Noodler's Black or Lamy blue or black."

Acually I would not say that thickness is the same thing as viscosity. It rather means volume of dye in it. For instance most Pelikan and Waterman ink are not heavily dyed, some colours do stain somewhat but there is not much dye in them.

There are some very wet but very thick inks - some Sailor inks etc. And there are some rather dry but thin inks - like some Pelikan. On the other hand GvFC Cobalt Blue has a lot of dye in it and is dry, while Waterman Serenity does not have much dye but is quite wet.

 

Basically thicker inks are often more difficult to flush (it takes longer), they also may be sometimes more problematic with pistons - but both things usually only if the pen hygiene is poor.

Edited by aurore

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

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Actually I would not say that thickness is the same thing as viscosity. It rather means VOLUME (AMOUNT) OF DYE used in it. For instance most Pelikan and Waterman ink are not heavily dyed, some colours do stain somewhat but there is not much dye in them.

There are some very wet but very thick inks - some Sailor inks etc. And there are some rather dry but thin inks - like some Pelikan. On the other hand GvFC Cobalt Blue has a lot of dye in it and is dry, while Waterman Serenity does not have much dye but is quite wet.

 

Basically thicker inks are often more difficult to flush (it takes longer), they also may be sometimes more problematic with pistons - but both things usually only if the pen hygiene is poor.

 

Use any ink you like as long as you like the performance, do the proper hygiene and ignore vague misleading recommendations made by the manufacturers :)

Edited by aurore

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

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Can the translators' intention be moderate intensity or more logically moderate (neutral) pH inks?

 

Pelikan, Waterman, normal Cross (which is rebranded 4001 IIRC) and normal Faber Castell are pretty safe, neutral pH inks.

 

If so,you can also try some Noodler's inks with "Always pH neutral" property. Also Lamy's black is around pH 7, which is like water. Kaweco will also enter into this list as well as Parker.

 

In fact many of the mentioned inks are the most acidic inks made (easily about 1.7-3.0 pH), except black which is usually pH 7 or above with many brands.

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

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"Moderate thickness" sounds like any ink except saturated ink. No reason why it would mean anything about pH.

 

Non-saturated inks just seem like ordinary ink, or "classic" ink, similar to what we find in vintage Sheaffer Skrip, Carter's, or Parker Quink. Not watery -- just not saturated.

Edited by welch

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I'd also guess the thickness is about saturation. Highly saturated inks can require more bother to clean and can sometimes surprise users with crystals on the nib.

 

Just be sure to use "fountain pen ink."

Not india ink or drawing ink or calligraphy ink, etc.

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The meaning might be literal, but lost on everyone who hasn't been in talks about "thin" or "thick" inks.

 

I was in a shop and looking at the display of the German brand "Online", they offer fountain pens and rollerballs, which both can be refilled with standard international cartridges.

 

The rollerballs have inks especially created, and the packaging with the cartridges clearly states (in writing and with a picture) whether it's for the rollerball or fpen.

 

I asked the shopkeeper whether it was really necessary to buy the rollerball ink, couldn't I just stick the fountain pen ink in?

The answer was, no, it is better to use the rollerball ink, as it is more watery and thinner than the fountain pen ink, especially formulated for the fine fins or collector of the rollerball, so it doesn't clog.

 

All I know is that I used to have such a refillable rollerball many moons ago and used royal blue (i.e. washable blue) fountain pen cartridges and never had a problem.

 

Whether special ink is necessary or just to add to sales, I don't know.

 

Anyway, might be that this is what they mean?

(I.e. in this case, "only use fountain pen ink in these fountain pens (no "thin" rollerball ink and no "thick" india ink either, please!)!!")

Edited by Olya
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I bought a bottle of Bookbinder's Red Belly Rattler and it just looks "thick" in the bottle. Never really used it because it dries super fast on the nib.

It's hard work to tell which is Old Harry when everybody's got boots on.

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The meaning might be literal, but lost on everyone who hasn't been in talks about "thin" or "thick" inks.

 

I was in a shop and looking at the display of the German brand "Online", they offer fountain pens and rollerballs, which both can be refilled with standard international cartridges.

 

The rollerballs have inks especially created, and the packaging with the cartridges clearly states (in writing and with a picture) whether it's for the rollerball or fpen.

 

I asked the shopkeeper whether it was really necessary to buy the rollerball ink, couldn't I just stick the fountain pen ink in?

The answer was, no, it is better to use the rollerball ink, as it is more watery and thinner than the fountain pen ink, especially formulated for the fine fins or collector of the rollerball, so it doesn't clog.

 

All I know is that I used to have such a refillable rollerball many moons ago and used royal blue (i.e. washable blue) fountain pen cartridges and never had a problem.

 

Whether special ink is necessary or just to add to sales, I don't know.

 

Anyway, might be that this is what they mean?

(I.e. in this case, "only use fountain pen ink in these fountain pens (no "thin" rollerball ink and no "thick" india ink either, please!)!!")

Yes , I think that's it !

Maybe due to translation , it's an awkward way of saying use fountain pen ink , don't use other types of ink .

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I asked Jetpens.com and they noted it was an unusual recommendation from Schmidt , and then suggested Waterman and J. Herbin , both from bottle .

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Faber-Castell Brilliant Black - There would be no issue leaving this ink / nib combo with a babysitter .

Though I prefer it's more aristocratic cousin , Graf von Faber-Castell Carbon Black for it's suave moderately "lubricated" character .

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