It seems you prefer finer nibs and and harder nibs.
You could say that. How I would summarise my nib preferences, in my usual verbose way, is:
- I prefer nibs made precisely, and the lines they lay down on the page crisp at the edges, without undue physical sharpness or scratchiness. I appreciate a good Italic or Stub nib that puts down wide lines — to match the nib's stated width, e.g. 0.8mm Stub on the Nemosine Singularity, or width grade, e.g. Calligraphy Medium on the Pilot MR/Prera — on downstrokes, but keep to smooth fine (say, 0.2mm-wide) lines on cross-strokes. However, the broader a round-tipped nib, the more difficult it is to get crisp lines out of it as a matter of course, unless the tipping is specially ground with an angular "foot". Sailor, for one, is known for having such tipping geometry on its round-tipped nibs.
- I like versatile nibs. As a writing instrument that does not sport a "specialty" or specialised nib, such as an Italic or Twin nib, I expect a pen to be "language-agnostic", and be suitable for writing in Chinese, English, Hindi, Japanese and Russian all the same, even though I only understand the first two (and can only copy writing in Japanese without understanding the text). There is a minimum capability requirement, for a nib to be fit for my writing purposes; other capabilities, such as being able to put down thick lines or produce swells on demand, are a boon and does the nib credit. The H-M nib on my Sailor kabazaiku pen gives me that out-of-the-box in a big way, but many other pens can also do it to some extent. A lot of other fountain pens — not limited to Japanese brands — arrive ready to support "reverse-writing" adequately, although I prefer not to have to keep holding the pen in that orientation in order to get the fine lines I require.
- I don't mind nibs that exhibit elastic deformation — including Soft and Flex nibs — either to produce line variation and give one's handwriting some flair, and/or offer a bouncy writing experience, provided that the metal is really quick to return to the original shape as soon as the user's hand pressure is reduced. In fact, I prefer nibs that will initially comply but continuously push back when the user "forces" its tines to bend, in the way a rattan rod will bend but push back firmly, as opposed to a steel pipe that does not yield at all. The floppier or more "compliant" a Soft or Flex nib is, the bigger the demand it places on me in terms of concentration and fine motor control to get the shapes I want on the page, and the writing experience becomes taxing instead of relaxing and flowing. My Sailor 21K gold H-F nibs all exhibit some give, as do the Pilot gold #10 F nibs, and Pelikan steel M20x F nibs too, whereas the Platinum #3776 14K gold F nibs do not yield at all in my experience, and nor does the Lamy Z52 steel nib; but I enjoy writing with all of those.
I have tried the sailor naginata Broad and appreciate the craftsmanship, but i can not agree that it can be used as an EDC.
I suggest you try a Naginata Concord nib, which writes finely enough in normal orientation.
i have never owned an aurora is it a good idea to try one before a lamy 2000 ( i know they are not at the same price point, but regarding experience)
How much are you prepared to spend?
I like the look of, and enjoy writing with, most of my Aurora pens but not all of them.
(Actually, I'm still waiting for six on the list, including all of the steel-nibbed ones, but five of them should arrive today.) I have two Lamy 2000 pens, although I've only written with one of them — the more expensive Blue Bauhaus limited edition — and frankly I don't like it, even though it is no doubt a well-made pen. Still, for US$100 the gold-nibbed Lamy 2000 Makrolon is probably worth a try, just to know what the fuss is about and form one's own opinion. The gold-nibbed Aurora Ipsilon Deluxe is about US$120, while the entry-level steel-nibbed Ipsilon can be had for around US$60. I just opened up a steel-nibbed one that arrived today, which cost me about US$56 (and it even came fitted with an Aurora converter, which isn't cheap to buy separately), and I'm finding that I like it quite a lot. Its EF nib may not be the finest Aurora EF nib I've used, but it performs respectably in that regard (12 parallel horizontal lines in a 5mm square space) and writes very smoothly, even when "reverse-writing".
There's an offer for the Aurora 888 Mercurio for US$436 right now, and I would've jumped on it if I didn't just buy the 888 Nettuno (but have already been relieved of it), an Optima in burgundy aerolide, and four other cheaper Aurora models this month.
Edited by A Smug Dill, 28 January 2020 - 14:09.
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