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Another Vac Fill Section Removal Question


eharriett

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I looked this one up and can't come up with 100% certainty and this is my first.

 

First vac fill with a Triumph nib -- a later capsule one. I'm trying to find the right point to apply heat to it so I can separate it. I looked in the blue book, other threads here on FPN and even Google images and while I found a bunch of direction on the older ones where the chamber is a one piece, I can't seem to find anywhere confirming the later capsule type pens. Could someone please confirm if this is the right area to heat to open it so I can get to the packing? And how how do I need to get it? Got a new infrared thermometer so I stop causing fires!!

 

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I use a big thick rubber band from the local office supply store to grip the hot nib and the body (close to where the nib is to reduce stress). A couple sections of intertube works too.

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I have some of those grip pads. Folding it on itself is enough to keep things cool enough to touch

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Update: so I removed the nib. And, as RonZ has warned there is a greater than 50% chance you will detach the nib from the feed, I did. I knew it was a high risk and I have never done it before, but I really wanted to try and I’d never paid less for a vac fill than I’d paid for this one. Although I learned a bit more about how to grip the nib and everything so hopefully I do not make the same mistake again. I am still going to go ahead and keep trying to learn here. So far, in addition to the nib/feed separation, which I have not yet tried to put back on to see what the problem is I keep hearing about, I am learning some other things too:

 

1. I need a smaller drill bit to get out the packing material from the capsule than the one I’ve been using for the older versions.

2. I see there are two worn out rubber pieces on the bottom of the filler rod instead of just one. I have the larger piece that goes on the bottom right before the screw in pellet, but I have to figure out what the upper one is, since on the older rods they appear to be metal and part of the rod itself.

 

I am sad that I have somehow damaged this in my attempt to learn (looking forward to seeing what damage I caused the nib) but pleased to see I have learned something and have ideas on how not to repeat the mistakes.

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You should use the same size drill bit to remove the packing unit. The 0-rings and the retaining washer both require a 1/4" hole.

 

Sheaffer put a short sleeve on the end of the plunger rod, just below the backing washer. No idea why they did it, unless it was to limit travel so that it did not go all of the way to the end of the barrel. Having it there or not does not seem to make a difference.

 

The rod is separate from this sleeve (if present) and the backing washer, and head gasket nut. It might look like they're one piece, but that is likely dried ink or other schmutz.

 

Believe me when I say that you have a looong way to catch up to me on the number of pens I've damaged or broken in the last 30 years. I jokingly call it "tuition."

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You should use the same size drill bit to remove the packing unit. The 0-rings and the retaining washer both require a 1/4" hole.

 

Sheaffer put a short sleeve on the end of the plunger rod, just below the backing washer. No idea why they did it, unless it was to limit travel so that it did not go all of the way to the end of the barrel. Having it there or not does not seem to make a difference.

 

The rod is separate from this sleeve (if present) and the backing washer, and head gasket nut. It might look like they're one piece, but that is likely dried ink or other schmutz.

 

Believe me when I say that you have a looong way to catch up to me on the number of pens I've damaged or broken in the last 30 years. I jokingly call it "tuition."

Remember the difference between a mistake and a learning experience. Mistakes don't cost money.

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The RZ tool doesn’t fit in the capsule. Good thing I checked before doing anything. What am I missing? The packing is in there, is it not?

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