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Vac Fil Question


siamackz

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I have repaired many Sheaffer vac fil pens successfully, but this one is confusing me.

 

Normally, I remove the packing unit and then I replace it with a fat O ring gasket and place a white washer on top to seal the gasket in there. Right?

 

This time, I am confused. The O ring does not fit INSIDE the packing unit cup, its too big. But it can sit on top of the cup. I didnt really notice that on pens I fixed earlier. My question is, does the O ring gasket actually need to go inside the cup or sit on top of it and get held in place by the white washer that I fuse on top of it with MEK? See pic below.

fpn_1571878212__754a6936-d795-4c5b-a4d8-

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Inside.

 

Did you cut it off?

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Inside.

 

Did you cut it off?

No I didnt cut it, that pic is not of my pen, sorry for the confusion.

 

Strangely, the O ring doesnt fit inside the cup. Isnt there just one standard size O ring gasket for all vac fils? This one is too large. And I can see the cup inside and its clear and empty. So what Whats the deal?

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On the ones I did, this is how they went together ... including one like yours, which had the internal cylinder which could be removed from the body. (hint, the O-Ring goes inside the black cap, the white washer sits on top of the O-Ring, and is sealed/fused/glued to the black cap.

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/uploads/imgs/fpn_1567089366__disassembled_sheaffer_vac_fill_desk_pen_brown_striated.jpg

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/uploads/imgs/fpn_1567089287__1_all_apart_even_the_head_seal_is_removed.jpg

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/uploads/imgs/fpn_1567089433__sheaffer_pen_anatomy_vac_filler.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for confirming what I thought. Is it possible I have the wrong size of O ring or is it supposed to be a really really tight squeeze to get in there? I never faced this before?

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It should be a snug fit. I run a 1/4" reamer down the inside first, then the 0-ring, then the retaining washer.

 

Too bad you aren't in the USA. I'm doing a seminar on restoring these at the Ohio show next Friday in which I'll take the pen apart, and go through the restoration process.

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It should be a snug fit. I run a 1/4" reamer down the inside first, then the 0-ring, then the retaining washer.

 

Too bad you aren't in the USA. I'm doing a seminar on restoring these at the Ohio show next Friday in which I'll take the pen apart, and go through the restoration process.

My loss! I hope you have a great workshop!

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I should add you want some compression of the 0-ring so that you get a good seal both on the wall of the packing unit and the rod. Put the 0-ring in dry, no silicone grease, so that you don't contaminate the surface where the packing unit and retaining washer fuse when solvent welded.

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I should add you want some compression of the 0-ring so that you get a good seal both on the wall of the packing unit and the rod. Put the 0-ring in dry, no silicone grease, so that you don't contaminate the surface where the packing unit and retaining washer fuse when solvent welded.

I should add you want some compression of the 0-ring so that you get a good seal both on the wall of the packing unit and the rod. Put the 0-ring in dry, no silicone grease, so that you don't contaminate the surface where the packing unit and retaining washer fuse when solvent welded.

Yup I usually put them in dry. But its normally an easy process. This time the O ring is way larger than the cup. Im so confused!

See pics. What am I missing?

fpn_1571930397__3725c638-cb0b-4f25-ac58-

fpn_1571930464__85881e11-cc0c-4bb7-943a-

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That's correct. The cup should be drilled out/reamed out to 1/4", which converts to 6.3mm, first. That is the size of both the 0-ring and the retaining washers. The retaining washer is 1/4" OD thick walled styrene tubing that has been cut to form a washer. This is normally done with the packing unit in the barrel because most of the time they won't come out without some damage to either the pen or the packing unit. Sometimes they come out almost, or completely, by themselves. But if they're stuck, don't try to get them out. You go in from the front end and drill out the washer, and then the packing material making sure that you don't go more than 1/4", and don't drill through the end or weaken where the threads are attached.

 

This is where the tool that I came up with, and that Dale Beebe makes comes in handy - it allows you to seat the 0-ring and then the retaining washer down in the end of the barrel in the packing unit. The 0-ring goes on the small end, the retaining washer on the other.

 

http://www.mainstreetpens.com/pix/PT1.jpg

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It should be a snug fit. I run a 1/4" reamer down the inside first, then the 0-ring, then the retaining washer.

 

Too bad you aren't in the USA. I'm doing a seminar on restoring these at the Ohio show next Friday in which I'll take the pen apart, and go through the restoration process.

Have you thought about using a Go Pro or similar video camera to record one of your seminars?

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Have you thought about using a Go Pro or similar video camera to record one of your seminars?

I'll second that request! I'll be there on Saturday, but Friday isn't possible. Sure wish I could attend.

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That's correct. The cup should be drilled out/reamed out to 1/4", which converts to 6.3mm, first. That is the size of both the 0-ring and the retaining washers. The retaining washer is 1/4" OD thick walled styrene tubing that has been cut to form a washer. This is normally done with the packing unit in the barrel because most of the time they won't come out without some damage to either the pen or the packing unit. Sometimes they come out almost, or completely, by themselves. But if they're stuck, don't try to get them out. You go in from the front end and drill out the washer, and then the packing material making sure that you don't go more than 1/4", and don't drill through the end or weaken where the threads are attached.

 

This is where the tool that I came up with, and that Dale Beebe makes comes in handy - it allows you to seat the 0-ring and then the retaining washer down in the end of the barrel in the packing unit. The 0-ring goes on the small end, the retaining washer on the other.

 

 

http://www.mainstreetpens.com/pix/PT1.jpg

Thanks Ron. I figured its safer to trim down the O ring than drill the cup inside the barrel. I have placed the washer on top using MEK. Ill test it later today and confirm

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Thanks Ron. I figured its safer to trim down the O ring than drill the cup inside the barrel. I have placed the washer on top using MEK. Ill test it later today and confirm

 

As you wish. We've been using the technique drilling out the packing units for over a decade, and with with the others that I know who are using the same technique, that makes for an awful lot of pens... thousands maybe. By the number of 0-rings I've had to order, I've done several hundred. It's safe. Trimming the outside of the 0-ring gives you an uneven dimension on the outside, so opportunity for a leak around the outside of the 0-ring.

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As you wish. We've been using the technique drilling out the packing units for over a decade, and with with the others that I know who are using the same technique, that makes for an awful lot of pens... thousands maybe. By the number of 0-rings I've had to order, I've done several hundred. It's safe. Trimming the outside of the 0-ring gives you an uneven dimension on the outside, so opportunity for a leak around the outside of the 0-ring.

You were right, Ron. The seal was ruined by trimming it down. I guess I will need to drill the cup's diameter wider to allow the O ring to fit it, after all. Do you by any chance know what I should ensure the inner diameter of the cup is in order to hold the O ring properly? Thanks for all your help!

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The inside of the packing unit should be drilled to 1/4" ID. Not a heck of a lot, but it does make a difference. The right diameter drill is important, but a problem if you are living in a metric world. You may have to order one. A Cobalt drill costs a bit more, but keeps its edge longer than high speed steel.

 

A 6mm drill converts to 0.236" which is 14 thousandths too small, so the 0-ring and retaining washer would not fit. A 6.5mm drill (if they exist) would be 6 thousandths too, big so the fit would be too loose. If you find a letter drill set, and E drill is 0.250" as well. There may be a British or European standard that I'm not aware of, but fractional drills and letter drills are what we work with.

 

The drill or reamer is the BEST way to go But if you must change the OD of an 0-ring, you need to put it on a shaft, a screw maybe, that will not stretch it much, and secure the 0-ring so that it doesn't spin on the screw. Then chuck that in a drill and sand the outside down while the drill is spinning. Stop and measure the OD regularly. If you get within a thousandth or so of what you need, you can try it in the packing unit.

 

Let me repeat my self though - you really want to get the right size drill if you are going to be repairing more than one or two of these pens.

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The inside of the packing unit should be drilled to 1/4" ID. Not a heck of a lot, but it does make a difference. The right diameter drill is important, but a problem if you are living in a metric world. You may have to order one. A Cobalt drill costs a bit more, but keeps its edge longer than high speed steel.

 

A 6mm drill converts to 0.236" which is 14 thousandths too small, so the 0-ring and retaining washer would not fit. A 6.5mm drill (if they exist) would be 6 thousandths too, big so the fit would be too loose. If you find a letter drill set, and E drill is 0.250" as well. There may be a British or European standard that I'm not aware of, but fractional drills and letter drills are what we work with.

 

The drill or reamer is the BEST way to go But if you must change the OD of an 0-ring, you need to put it on a shaft, a screw maybe, that will not stretch it much, and secure the 0-ring so that it doesn't spin on the screw. Then chuck that in a drill and sand the outside down while the drill is spinning. Stop and measure the OD regularly. If you get within a thousandth or so of what you need, you can try it in the packing unit.

 

Let me repeat my self though - you really want to get the right size drill if you are going to be repairing more than one or two of these pens.

Thank you so much Ron! Much appreciated!

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The 1/4" drill bit is the important part. I've never been brave enough to actually use a drill to turn it, but rather do it slowly by hand. Good luck.

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  • 1 month later...

I took the fantastic advice here and got a 1/4 inch reamer made and it worked like a charm. Thanks for the push Ron!

fpn_1575380632__427878d4-6a57-4b3d-a604-

fpn_1575380736__3ba0f568-77e9-4c1d-a040-

And voila!

fpn_1575380585__b9da7bcd-bc0b-4726-abff-

My Vintage Montblanc Website--> link

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