Should I Return Or Keep My Pelikan M205?

[AMlines]

 

 

+1.

 

A "too wet" nib can be harder to fix than almost any other issue. I'd return the "too wet" one and get the other one smoothed out. Me and micro mesh have an ongoing relationship and it's never let me down.

 

Thanks for the tip. I could do that, because I quite like the pen, and don't feel like returning it.

However, I have never done this before, and at this time would like to have someone with adequate experience do it. Can you recommend a nib-meister I could go to here in the US?

[AMlines]

 

 

Heh, in the same vein, I wish Pelikan would produce a steel nibbed M800 size version of the M200. I highly doubt they would ever do such a thing, and I respect their decision for not wanting to as it could impact business and sales in unfavorable ways, but that doesn't stop me from wanting it. I love the M200's nib, but the pen itself is just too small for me.

 

That's high praise. So you think their gold nibs don't perform as well as the steel ones?

I have big hands and felt right away that even capped the pen is a little small for me. Ideally, it should be half an inch longer capped. But, I could live with that and it's not a big issue.

Which other pens in this price range with similar dimension, for you, provide a similar writing experience?

[sirgilbert357]

 

That's high praise. So you think their gold nibs don't perform as well as the steel ones?

I have big hands and felt right away that even capped the pen is a little small for me. Ideally, it should be half an inch longer capped. But, I could live with that and it's not a big issue.

Which other pens in this price range with similar dimension, for you, provide a similar writing experience?

 

 

That question would indicate a presupposition that there is an objective "best" nib out there -- I do not subscribe to that viewpoint.

 

So, it isn't that I think the steel nibs are "better" than the gold in some objective way, but that I love my gold nibs, and ALSO love the M200 nibs I've had (at least 3 in the past I can think of right off the top of my head). They just provide a different feel to the writing that I like. I just want the variety, that's all.

 

So, I'd like Pelikan to make the M800 with an M800-sized steel nib that writes "bouncy" in a way similar to the M200 nibs I've had in the past.

 

Other pens that offer a similar writing experience? Well, that's very subjective. I'm extremely sensitive to section diameter, so I doubt any of the following pens will be comparable to the M200 size in terms of "writing feel", but I can recommend the Pilot 912 with a soft medium nib. It would be slightly more bouncy than the M200's I've experienced, but not overly so. It should be able to offer a similar feel at the nib. The size is larger than an M200 though.

 

Also, my Leonardo Officina Italiana Momento Zero has a slightly springy nib, but it's not quite on the level of an M200. It is not a nail though.

 

I've posted before about my Conklin All American Brownstone in medium nib (with the Bock nib that has the crescent shaped breather hole -- NOT the other versions that were made available with plain nibs from certain vendors) being surprisingly bouncy. I'd even say it goes well beyond that - I could reverse write and get a fine line from it, write normally and get a medium line, and then add a bit of pressure and it would go all the way to a 1.5 mm line equal to my Lamy 1.5 mm stub at it's widest! A true "do-it-all" nib, with bounce, and able to add some flair to one's writing, dare I say. I think I got a unicorn, but it's amazing and I love it. It only uses Noodler's Liberty's Elysium, a rather wet ink, but it doesn't skip or railroad when writing those fatter lines with it. No doubt the feed would never keep up with a drier ink.

 

This post will no doubt trigger the "flex writing" people on FPN, but I don't care about flex writing at all and I'm not calling my Conklin a flex pen either. It will, however, write from a Euro fine to 1.5 mm, so whatever everyone wants to call that is fine with me. I'm simply stating it has a soft feeling nib to it just like the other pens discussed in this post and might be enjoyable for someone that likes a bigger pen that has a softer steel nib. Sorry for the ridiculous disclaimer, but I'm not interesting in getting into a flame war about my views on nibs that bend under pressure. Some people fill pages upon pages about this "flex" topic in a single post, completely unsolicited and off topic, so I don't want to be responsible for initiating the derailing of this thread...

[Arkanabar]

I am still to return the first nib. Why do you say wetter nibs are difficult to correct?

If so, I might as well keep the first nib and have it tuned by a nib-meister as others suggest.

Mainly because I've seen any number of videos and guides on how to deal with misalignment and rough tipping, and very few on how to deal with excessive wetness.

 

 

That's high praise. So you think their gold nibs don't perform as well as the steel ones?

For my purposes, yes. I have an M200, an M205, and an M400, and the M400 is the one that never leaves the case. My handwriting is cramped, narrow, and awful, and an overly wide and wet line reduces its mediocre legibility even further. It doesn't help that I use the cheapest letter sized copy/laser paper I can find. Fortunately, high recycled content paper (which feathers more) is regarded as morally superior and thus priced higher. I will also agree with Bo Bo that the gold nib on my M400 is quite a bit stiffer than the steel nibs on my M2xx pens.

[Bo Bo Olson]

A '82-97 400's regular flex gold nib is exactly = to a steel 200's nib. '87?-now.

A modern gold nib ....besides the fat and blobby nib.. the 400/600 are semi-nails, the 800 is a nail, the 1000 is a regular flex.

 

I don't care for the modern fat and blobby nib, which can be cured by stubbing....or a major overhaul...in those are two round balls, and not tear drop shaped.

 

It's the lack of springy bounce on the semi-nail 400/600 or the nail 800.

I can get nice semi-vintage gold or steel nibs, so don't even think about paying a nib master to work on a nib...to get it thinner, or in hopes of a wonder and having the nail or semi-nail being made springy.

 

I can get great stub...semi-flex nibs...those are gold, '50-65 that are like the 200 1/2 a width narrower than modern, and factory stubs each one of them.

 

Do get a loupe, even a cheap chinese 40x one.....make things much easier for you.

 

 

Some folks won't ship out of Germany, so I trans-posted 200's nibs to a pal in England.

Screwing them on to my 400, which had the same flex, it didn't take long to come to really like the steel 200s nib.................... Sigh...I will confess to being a fool gold snob....and for quite awhile. .

 

In I had a 400, decided I didn't need a 200, so got a 215 with that nice 200 nib. I then got in regular flex more '80-97 or so pens. A gold 381, gold Celebry, steel Celebry and a couple more 200's.

Going to get the Star Ruby too....but in B....in somehow in regular flex I'm missing that width.

 

I call it regular flex, in back in the day of B&W TV, many companies (some of the Esterbrook nibs....some of the Shaffer Subbrands and others, made such nib for regular issue......now it's rare.

 

In I don't chase skinny nibs; I have nor need no Japanese pens...some folks say the 200 is similar to the Japanese 'soft' nib....others say the Japanese 'soft' nib is mushy compared to the 200.

[sirgilbert357]

 

Thanks for the tip. I could do that, because I quite like the pen, and don't feel like returning it.

However, I have never done this before, and at this time would like to have someone with adequate experience do it. Can you recommend a nib-meister I could go to here in the US?

 

Go to? No, I haven't got a clue. I don't know where you live, nor do I know of any that have a physical location for you to see them in person.

 

I would Google pen shows in your area, or ones within striking distance of your city. Failing that, mailing the pen off to a nibmeister is another option. I'd recommend Ron Zorn. There are others. Search FPN and I'm sure you'll come away with a handful of names to look up.

 

Be advised it could take some serious time before you get your pen back if you mail it off to someone. Ask about the lead time when you reach out to a nibmeister. Some queues can be measured in months...

 

Personally, I'd get a cheap Jinhao and some micromesh and practice on the Jinhao's nib. You'll see how easy it is to smooth a nib...then just do it on your M200. If you mess it up, replacement nibs are about 20-25 bucks new. Not a huge deal. You'll spend more than that on shipping your pen back and forth and paying for a nibmeister to look at your nib....just food for thought.

[sandy101]

Visconti Blue ink, in my experience is one ink that not all of my pens can digest easily.

 

Try another ink in the Pelikan, and see if you get a different result.

 

Waterman, or even Pelikan's own inks.

 

You may get a different result.

[Honeybadgers]

Good to hear that. All I can say is there is a visible difference between the two sample nibs I have. The second nib which I find wetter should be fine, but it's much more so than the first one.

Thanks for the tip. Actually, I never press down on a pen - whether a fountain, gel or other. I have always written with an even and soft pressure on the nib.

You're making me envious. Like I said in the other comment, I really like the writing experience with this pen, and see myself write for hours with it. Which is why the nib issue is frustrating for an amateur like me.

I gathered from the others comments that the nib has more springiness than eastern brands. I hadn't really felt this until I saw these comments and then realised that the Plaisir F nib does feel much harder than the M205. While I don't press hard, I do agree that the latter makes for more character.

I could try that. Except, the issue is that two nibs of the same specs are behaving differently with the same nib. So, it is likely not an issue with the nib then.

 

the feeds are the same (which has a huge impact on flow so the too-wet behavior would not change) and if one was scratchy, it may have just been misaligned, so that's a separate problem.

 

The "nib is too wet" issue is almost always easily solved with a different ink.

 

I'd bet $20 you would be surprised what a different ink could do. I have pens that just firehose with specific inks, and others that skip and hard start with some inks and NEVER do with others. And some inks in general can just be picky. I have a few inks that just don't play nice in most of the pens they're put in.

 

Don't be discouraged, the M205 is generally a very well regarded pen from a QC standpoint. Just try a different ink (start with something simple like pilot blue or pelikan 4001 blue or black) and let us know what happens. I'd bet with some pelikan 4001 as a test (a very dry ink) you'd be much happier.

 

I'm running mont blanc irish green through my m205 right now and the flow is absolutely perfect.

 

And if you plan on owning more than 1 or 2 pens, it's worthwhile to invest the $15 in a loupe and some 12,000 grit micro mesh. I learned on cheap jinhao pens to grind/adjust nibs, and now I'm willing to tune a lot of stuff that gets to me and I don't like the performance of.

 

Also, be advised that a nibmeister will likely charge about $40 for an adjustment after all's said and done. New nib units for the m205 are a little less than that.

Edited October 19, 2019 by Honeybadgers

[A Smug Dill]

I like matching my steel-nibbed Pelikan M20x pens with iron-gall inks. They work pretty well to reduce the ink flow and make the nibs deliver acceptable (and even pleasing) handwriting output. That said, KWZI Green Gold hasn't been too bad a match with my M200 F nib.

[AMlines]

 

That question would indicate a presupposition that there is an objective "best" nib out there -- I do not subscribe to that viewpoint.

 

So, it isn't that I think the steel nibs are "better" than the gold in some objective way, but that I love my gold nibs, and ALSO love the M200 nibs I've had (at least 3 in the past I can think of right off the top of my head). They just provide a different feel to the writing that I like. I just want the variety, that's all.

Yes, of course. But what is it about the feel that you prefer over the gold nibs? I've heard so much about gold nibs that I am intrigued to see that there are characteristics of steel nibs that are more preferable for many writers.

 

So, I'd like Pelikan to make the M800 with an M800-sized steel nib that writes "bouncy" in a way similar to the M200 nibs I've had in the past.

You mean the M800 is hard to write with, akin to a Japanese nib?

Other pens that offer a similar writing experience? Well, that's very subjective. I'm extremely sensitive to section diameter, so I doubt any of the following pens will be comparable to the M200 size in terms of "writing feel", but I can recommend the Pilot 912 with a soft medium nib. It would be slightly more bouncy than the M200's I've experienced, but not overly so. It should be able to offer a similar feel at the nib. The size is larger than an M200 though.

Thanks, I am quite interested in Pilot's now. This looks quite good, though a bit too thick. I also saw the Custom 74 and 92 which are thinner and similar to the M205. Do they have the same nibs as the 912?

Worth acquiring them? I might just go for a medium nib this time!

I'll also check out the Leonardo and Conklin...

[AMlines]

A '82-97 400's regular flex gold nib is exactly = to a steel 200's nib. '87?-now.

A modern gold nib ....besides the fat and blobby nib.. the 400/600 are semi-nails, the 800 is a nail, the 1000 is a regular flex.

 

I don't care for the modern fat and blobby nib, which can be cured by stubbing....or a major overhaul...in those are two round balls, and not tear drop shaped.

 

It's the lack of springy bounce on the semi-nail 400/600 or the nail 800.

I can get nice semi-vintage gold or steel nibs, so don't even think about paying a nib master to work on a nib...to get it thinner, or in hopes of a wonder and having the nail or semi-nail being made springy.

Thanks for these clarifications. I hadn't realised the aspect of spring bounce earlier, until I saw members comments. But now, I have to say I am sensitive to the issue, and my Plaisir F nib clearly feels hard as compared to the M205 F. And this despite the fact that I don't press down at all while writing.

So, why do the expensive pens have such hard nibs? If it's all about preference with no inherent technical superiority of one of the other, why not give choices?

Do get a loupe, even a cheap chinese 40x one.....make things much easier for you.

I want to, except at the moment I don't have time to get into nib tuning. I would want the pen - and especially an expensive one - to just work out of the box. At the moment, I am stuck with the two M205 nibs I am now thinking I'll return these and just ask them to get me a Medium.

In I don't chase skinny nibs; I have nor need no Japanese pens...some folks say the 200 is similar to the Japanese 'soft' nib....others say the Japanese 'soft' nib is mushy compared to the 200.

Sure, except I also need to write on cheap A4 sheets and a European Medium will feather a lot from what I hear. When I gifted the Pilot Metropolitan Medium to a friend and wrote with it a little, I realised how smooth it was, and that I could well get one.

[AMlines]

Failing that, mailing the pen off to a nibmeister is another option. I'd recommend Ron Zorn. There are others. Search FPN and I'm sure you'll come away with a handful of names to look up.

Sorry, I meant to ask for a store I could mail the nib/pen to. I won't be able to go to a physical store. Ron Zorn looks prety good and I'll get in touch with them.

Be advised it could take some serious time before you get your pen back if you mail it off to someone. Ask about the lead time when you reach out to a nibmeister. Some queues can be measured in months...

Woah. Rather than wait for so long, I might as well get a new nib!

Personally, I'd get a cheap Jinhao and some micromesh and practice on the Jinhao's nib. You'll see how easy it is to smooth a nib...then just do it on your M200. If you mess it up, replacement nibs are about 20-25 bucks new. Not a huge deal. You'll spend more than that on shipping your pen back and forth and paying for a nibmeister to look at your nib....just food for thought.

Actually, I was thinking of just that. While I would love to hone my nib tuning skills, I really am not in a position to get into this at the moment. Besides, I am not even sure that my diagnosis of the issue is right. Maybe the issue is something else.

I might just order a new Medium nib, or stick to more reliable Japanese brands like Pilot in the future.

[AMlines]

the feeds are the same (which has a huge impact on flow so the too-wet behavior would not change) and if one was scratchy, it may have just been misaligned, so that's a separate problem.

 

The "nib is too wet" issue is almost always easily solved with a different ink.

I bought a full bottle of Visconti which I had settled on and shifting/experimenting with a new ink is a little difficult at the moment. Except, with the same ink and the same Fine nibs I am seeing a difference in performance.

Don't be discouraged, the M205 is generally a very well regarded pen from a QC standpoint. Just try a different ink (start with something simple like pilot blue or pelikan 4001 blue or black) and let us know what happens. I'd bet with some pelikan 4001 as a test (a very dry ink) you'd be much happier.

Thanks. I really like the pen and this is near ideal for my purposes. There is a simplicity to it that is hard to pin down. It just makes me want to write. Which is why it is frustrating for an amateur having spent quite a bit of $$. But, I see your point and understand that this is all about character. It's quite hard to go back to soul-less gel pens! I hope to get around to learning the tuning eventually.

And if you plan on owning more than 1 or 2 pens, it's worthwhile to invest the $15 in a loupe and some 12,000 grit micro mesh. I learned on cheap jinhao pens to grind/adjust nibs, and now I'm willing to tune a lot of stuff that gets to me and I don't like the performance of.

I could do easily do that. Except, I am at a stage where I am not even sure I've diagnosed the issue with the nib correctly.

And, will I be able to make do with just that micro mesh or others with different specs?

Can you recommend some loupes? A decent budget one, and a more expensive one?

Also, be advised that a nibmeister will likely charge about $40 for an adjustment after all's said and done. New nib units for the m205 are a little less than that.

Exactly! I am better off just getting a new nib!

And looking at the quality of the out of the box performance of Pilot nibs, my next pen could well be either the Custom 74 or Heritage 92!

[sirgilbert357]

Yes, of course. But what is it about the feel that you prefer over the gold nibs? I've heard so much about gold nibs that I am intrigued to see that there are characteristics of steel nibs that are more preferable for many writers.

 

You mean the M800 is hard to write with, akin to a Japanese nib?

 

Thanks, I am quite interested in Pilot's now. This looks quite good, though a bit too thick. I also saw the Custom 74 and 92 which are thinner and similar to the M205. Do they have the same nibs as the 912?

Worth acquiring them? I might just go for a medium nib this time!

I'll also check out the Leonardo and Conklin...

 

 

It isn't that I prefer the M200 steel nibs over gold. The Pilot 912's soft medium nib is gold, actually. What I like about the M200 and the Pilot 912 is the softer writing experience. Just to clarify, I don't prefer it. It is just nice having the option to write with something softer once in awhile. I like my nail nibs too and some of my best writers have no give at all. It is just all about preference. Some people may only like nail nibs, some may like only "flex" nibs, others like them both, or anything in between.

 

The M800's I have are both modern (made within the last 5 years) and have nail nibs. Some older Pelikans have softer flexible nibs (although most of the ones I see for sale are M400 sized and can be had from 100-200 bucks -- nothing M800 sized that I have seen).

 

When looking at Pilot's pens, you have to specifically search out the "soft" nibs. They are literally listed as SM (soft medium) or it will say "soft medium" spelled out in the description of the nib. If you just see medium or fine, assume it is a nail and not going to have any give to it.

 

Attached is a quick an dirty writing sample from the Conklin. The ink is Noodler's Liberty's Elysium and the paper is Clairefontaine 90 gsm. I'd certainly call this nib "soft", as it gives more line variation than my Pilot 912, yet it is not marketed as soft or flexy or anything. The widest part of the "flexy" writing is equal to 1.5 mm.

 

[sirgilbert357]

Sorry, I meant to ask for a store I could mail the nib/pen to. I won't be able to go to a physical store. Ron Zorn looks prety good and I'll get in touch with them.

Woah. Rather than wait for so long, I might as well get a new nib!

Actually, I was thinking of just that. While I would love to hone my nib tuning skills, I really am not in a position to get into this at the moment. Besides, I am not even sure that my diagnosis of the issue is right. Maybe the issue is something else.

I might just order a new Medium nib, or stick to more reliable Japanese brands like Pilot in the future.

 

You can easily get a cheap loupe online for less than 8 bucks, or get a magnifying glass from the dollar store. Smoothing out a nib really isn't rocket science, but you have to be willing to start somewhere. Google Richard Binder -- he has a reference site full of excellent explanations of how to tune and smooth a nib, along with illustrations. If you are willing to learn, you can easily sort out most nib issues yourself. If you'd rather not mess with it, you'll pay handsomely to the various nibmeisters for their time and work, and have to wait while your pen is in their hands. On a 20 dollar nib like the M200, I would just attempt to fix it myself. There are a multitude of cheap pens available on eBay that you can get to practice on. Search for Jinhao and Wing Sung...many are only a couple bucks shipped and are almost guaranteed to need some kind of nib work, lol.

[Bo Bo Olson]

Your problem is not 'nib tuning' but re- aligning the tine....takes up to two minuted the first time due to fear of screwing up, 10 second the third.

 

A honking big 1 1/4 inch thick magnifying glass is not strong enough. Get the cheap Chinese 40X loupe.

Loupe, look to see which of the tines is up out of alignment. Place your edge of your thumbnail at the breathing hole. Press the up tine under the low tine (not pressing it exactly under the other tine, but below it and level) the low nib, hold for two seconds, do it again. Check to see if the tines are level. Could be you need to do it three times.

It is seldom one needs to press the up nib below the down tine four times.

 

The reason I said it might take you up to two minutes to do it the first time, is actually pressing it below the low tine.....it might take a try or two, to press it hard enough to go under.

 

Of course you are only slightly, pressing the tine down....you are not bending it 90 degrees. So getting a bit of feeling for it does take up to a minute.

 

The pen companies on the whole went over to nails and semi-nails to lessen repair costs from Hammer Fisted ball point users.............using normal heavy ball point pressure to move the ball, and bending the hell out of the nib. A gel ball point is much easier....but is new. The old ball point cartridge was like plowing the south 40 with out the mule.

Nails, semi-nails, mean less repair costs.

 

There are hundreds of :crybaby:stories of what dammage a pure ball point user can do to a fountain pen nib in two seconds.....pretzel time.

 

The good lie to tell...and it is a lie, It takes ages to get the nib broken in to my hand, and anyone else's use will undo all that work.....and hand him a cheap....'free' ball point, you carry for self protection of your wallet.

 

There is a gold myth.....it matters who made the nib and in what era. A good steel is as good as a good gold nib........accent on good.

My 18K nails are just as hard as my 14 K one, or my couple steel nails....they are all equally nails............you can pay for the gold bling or get two good steel nibbed pens for the price of the gold nail.

The Cross Townsend is a perfect example....having equally good nails in gold and steel. I still have my arm and leg from that transaction.

 

A gold nail and a steel nail, are both exactly = nails.

There is no soft gold nail nibs.

I guess, someone is comparing a steel nail with a gold semi-nail.....because vintage and semi-vintage gold nail nibs are as hard as any of my 'modern' steel nibs.

 

PS I don't chase nails but when new stumbled across some, through ignorance or the '50's Pelikan D nib, the nails-nail, was in a lot of pens at a live auction, and I wanted the other three pens.

The D nib is the one pen you take up on the North Face of the Eiger or if you need to poke holes into a main battle tank.

 

 

Some folks are naturally heavy handed and need a nail....or a semi-nail.

Edited October 19, 2019 by Bo Bo Olson

[AMlines]

It isn't that I prefer the M200 steel nibs over gold. The Pilot 912's soft medium nib is gold, actually. What I like about the M200 and the Pilot 912 is the softer writing experience. Just to clarify, I don't prefer it. It is just nice having the option to write with something softer once in awhile.

Ah, got it now. Btw, I saw some Pilot's listed as having gold nibs but their nib colour was steel. I though a gold nib will obviously look gold coloured. Is that possible, or maybe they put up the wrong picture?

When looking at Pilot's pens, you have to specifically search out the "soft" nibs. They are literally listed as SM (soft medium) or it will say "soft medium" spelled out in the description of the nib. If you just see medium or fine, assume it is a nail and not going to have any give to it.

Interesting. I checked penchalet and Goulet and for the 74 and 92 they have no nibs clearly listed as soft. Which suggests the soft nibs are also not easy to come by. But thanks for telling me about this.

Attached is a quick an dirty writing sample from the Conklin. The ink is Noodler's Liberty's Elysium and the paper is Clairefontaine 90 gsm. I'd certainly call this nib "soft", as it gives more line variation than my Pilot 912, yet it is not marketed as soft or flexy or anything. The widest part of the "flexy" writing is equal to 1.5 mm.

Thanks, look nice So, a hard nib will give little or no line variation? But, a soft nib, even if fine, will give some variation?

[AMlines]

 

You can easily get a cheap loupe online for less than 8 bucks, or get a magnifying glass from the dollar store. Smoothing out a nib really isn't rocket science, but you have to be willing to start somewhere. Google Richard Binder -- he has a reference site full of excellent explanations of how to tune and smooth a nib, along with illustrations. If you are willing to learn, you can easily sort out most nib issues yourself. If you'd rather not mess with it, you'll pay handsomely to the various nibmeisters for their time and work, and have to wait while your pen is in their hands. On a 20 dollar nib like the M200, I would just attempt to fix it myself. There are a multitude of cheap pens available on eBay that you can get to practice on. Search for Jinhao and Wing Sung...many are only a couple bucks shipped and are almost guaranteed to need some kind of nib work, lol.

Thanks for the links! You have me convinced me

[AMlines]

Your problem is not 'nib tuning' but re- aligning the tine....takes up to two minuted the first time due to fear of screwing up, 10 second the third.

 

A honking big 1 1/4 inch thick magnifying glass is not strong enough. Get the cheap Chinese 40X loupe.

Loupe, look to see which of the tines is up out of alignment. Place your edge of your thumbnail at the breathing hole. Press the up tine under the low tine (not pressing it exactly under the other tine, but below it and level) the low nib, hold for two seconds, do it again. Check to see if the tines are level. Could be you need to do it three times.

It is seldom one needs to press the up nib below the down tine four times.

 

The reason I said it might take you up to two minutes to do it the first time, is actually pressing it below the low tine.....it might take a try or two, to press it hard enough to go under.

 

Of course you are only slightly, pressing the tine down....you are not bending it 90 degrees. So getting a bit of feeling for it does take up to a minute.

Thanks! Together with the website mentioned in the previous post, I am sure I'll be able to get along with the tuning. This will help a lot.

Do I not need to get a micro mesh too?

 

 

[sirgilbert357]

Thanks! Together with the website mentioned in the previous post, I am sure I'll be able to get along with the tuning. This will help a lot.

Do I not need to get a micro mesh too?

 

 

I don't see how anyone could fully diagnose your nib issues with the limited information we have so far. Pictures are worth a thousand words, etc. Just post back here if you get a loupe and tell us your findings. Also, if it is only scratchy in one direction (like on left to right strokes), then you might not need micromesh at all. You could just adjust the tines a bit (in my example the left tine would need to come up or the right tine would need to go down). It all depends...you don't HAVE to use a loupe to diagnose issues, but it is helpful. Edited October 20, 2019 by sirgilbert357