Jump to content

Lubricating 80S 149


aurore

Recommended Posts

Hello, any suggestions how to lubricate the piston of 80s 149 (with plastic mechanism I am unable to disassemble)?
I am asking about DIY methods. "Contact your boutique" is not quite the advice :)
Thanks.

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 23
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • aurore

    8

  • Michael R.

    4

  • meiers

    3

  • zaddick

    2

In my opinion the mechanism needs to be removed for lubrication. I use vaseline just like Montblanc does when servicing pens.

The 1980s mechanism should be able to be removed just like any Montblanc 149 from the 1970s on until today.

Only early 1960s shrink fit mechanisms require different skills and tools.

Maybe some repair person can help removing the mechanism?

Good luck

 

Michael

Link to comment
Share on other sites

buy a wrench and unscrew it. it is possible to make the tool if you prefer.

If you want less blah, blah, blah and more pictures, follow me on Instagram!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you guys. So basically the same method as with current production despite 80s mechanism is partly plastic?

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you very much, Michael. Actually what is a good source of reasonably priced wrenches except ebay (where they are quite overpriced currently, the Chinese are still selling them for 10 bucks but with a 40 bucks shipping :))?

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I screwed open the piston on my 149 while the pen was upright and poured some silicone from TWSBI on the plastic threads. The stuff was somewhat runny and after a day or two sitting upright the piston was smooth as glass. I was quite surprised.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't do that.

 

The silicone from TWBI is silicone oil, which will will wash away quickly and get into the ink and therefore the feed. Silicone grease is better, especially if it has been made to be resistant to washing off, as is Molykote 111. The tool is worth the investment if you are likely to keep the pen for any length of time. A jar of silicone grease will set you back $5 plus a couple of bucks shipping.

spacer.png
Visit Main Street Pens
A full service pen shop providing professional, thoughtful vintage pen repair...

Please use email, not a PM for repair and pen purchase inquiries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't do that.

 

The silicone from TWBI is silicone oil, which will will wash away quickly and get into the ink and therefore the feed. Silicone grease is better, especially if it has been made to be resistant to washing off, as is Molykote 111. The tool is worth the investment if you are likely to keep the pen for any length of time. A jar of silicone grease will set you back $5 plus a couple of bucks shipping.

 

Thank you a lot Ron. So you would rather use a silicone grease not vaseline?

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Use silicone grease as Ron noted. I'm using Super Lube silicone grease. Clean the chamber with clean q-tips and rub some (never generous amount!) silicone grease on the chamber wall and the piston (white). You don't have to apply grease on the rod or any other part. Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you! It's just many say MB uses vaseline. I have lubricated Pelikans only so far (with silicone) and would prefer to avoid faults especially with my pen from 70s.

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm completely confused. I know some warn off sillicone grease because some brands contain a petrolium derivative but I have sillicone grease that has no petrolium component that I've used in other pens (although not MB's). Another thread suggests not using sillicone grease at all but to use only vaseline but I'm fairly sure that is effectively petrolium jelly.

Full disclosure: I have the piston unscrewing tool and was thinking about taking a Schiller apart to regrease (I suspect seals have failed as it burps from the front and leaks from the piston when it's warmed in my hand). Now I'm so confused I might just send it to MB to do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm completely confused. I know some warn off sillicone grease because some brands contain a petrolium derivative but I have sillicone grease that has no petrolium component that I've used in other pens (although not MB's). Another thread suggests not using sillicone grease at all but to use only vaseline but I'm fairly sure that is effectively petrolium jelly.

Full disclosure: I have the piston unscrewing tool and was thinking about taking a Schiller apart to regrease (I suspect seals have failed as it burps from the front and leaks from the piston when it's warmed in my hand). Now I'm so confused I might just send it to MB to do.

 

I am just as confused. I have read almost everything on the subject here but there is no consensus.

 

To summarize.

 

Group one insists that vaseline (petroleum jelly) is the best way to go because it was mentioned in some MB papers and also a former MB employee said vaseline is what MB service uses etc. The main argument is that vaseline is allegedly what MB uses. This group also sometimes claims that silicone grease may eventually cause micro cracks.

 

Group two says that PURE 100% silicone grease (not oil) is the way to go and they have never had any troubles with it (and have never seen proofs that it indeed caused any damage) and all the supposed negatives of silicone to plastics is because not a pure silicone grease was used.

 

Group three says they use both and never had any troubles.

Edited by aurore

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've asked those who know MB pens better than I about petroleum jelly VS silicone grease. Their answer was silicone grease.

The reading that I've done says that MB suggested petroleum jelly because silicone grease may have caused some pens to develop problems, but that was quite a while ago. But doing plastic repairs as much as I do, I've experimented and have found that modern MB "precious resin" has proven to be resistant to any of the solvents that I use in pen repair. I do mean EVERYTHING, except cyclohexane, which caused complete and catastrophic failure of the resin. That isn't in silicone grease. I think that silicone grease is a much a better lubricant and is less likely to wash off. But if almost nothing reacts with MB resin, petroleum jelly isn't likely to harm the pen or the plastic piston seal either.

Not all silicone greases are the same. There are different formulations. I would avoid using Super Lube (even though I think it's great stuff) in some applications because it has other things like Teflon add to it. Read the application sheets for the product you want to use. You can learn quite a bit.

 

Molykote 111 is a Dow Corning product, and the application information says that it is resistant to washing off, and is "compatible with many plastics and elastomers." Nobody is going to say that it is compatible with ALL because it can't be tested with everyting that's out there. I feel comfortable using the product in pen repair, and do. I sell it because I know it works, and believe it to be safe and appropriate for use in pens.

Now, having written all that, I delayed posting until I could send an email to a friend who is head of the Chemistry Department at the local college, because reading the MSDS I noticed that it contains Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or (OMCTS). Is that related to cyclohexaney in any way?

 

His reply is helpful...

 

Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (OMCTS) is the precursor used for most silicone oils, waxes, or greases (or plastics). It may be listed on your MSDS because traces remain. Or, it may be there intentionally because it is a silicone liquid itself which would help make the grease thinner, as you suggest.

 

Silicones in general do not interact much with other polymers or rubbers. They are chemically dissimilar and therefore do not (usually) soften or dissolve in them. So, for your Montblanc pen resin, I would not expect that the Molykote 111 would react with it or soften it. However, I would suggest trying a little bit on some inconspicuous area if possible to test it. [edit: which we already have many times over many years without problems]

 

The word “cyclo” in OMCTS indicates a ring structure, which is also present in cyclohexane. However, the functional groups in the molecule are different, and that is what determines chemical properties.

spacer.png
Visit Main Street Pens
A full service pen shop providing professional, thoughtful vintage pen repair...

Please use email, not a PM for repair and pen purchase inquiries.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

:notworthy1: For me this is the ultimate explanation and answer and the real end of this reccuring subject. Thank you so much, Ron!

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You guys are superb. Thank you all a lot! Ron's post however is a real gold, I shall be attaching it whenever it comes to lubricating MB.

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Announcements


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33558
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26730
    5. jar
      jar
      26101
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...