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Pelikan Nib Comparisons


GMJEbonobin

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Hi all! I've got a Pelikan M150 with a steel nib in OB, and I absolutely love the way it writes. It's gotten me considering getting a newer model, either an M600, M800 or M805 (I've been really digging the M805 Stresemann Anthracite's look). I was wondering if anyone has had or used any combination of these and if they'd be willing to share their opinions!

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If Pelikan made a nib with the softness of an M150/200 in an M805/Stresemann I would have purchased one long ago.

Add lightness and simplicate.

 

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Sorry, I don't have anything larger than an M400/M405.

I do have a range of nibs (both gold and steel) in my various birds -- including the $5 (price I paid) for a 1980s Pelikano with a nail for a nib -- but it's an unbelievably smooth nail....

Probably my favorite of the nibs is the juicy F nib on a 1990s era M400, followed by the EF (yes, that *is* me saying that, because I normally don't like anything smaller than an F) on my M405 Striated Blue. Both of those are 14K; the nib on the M400 is a little springy as well.

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

"It's very nice, but frankly, when I signed that list for a P-51, what I had in mind was a fountain pen."

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The regular flex 100/150/200 is the same width and flex of the '82-97 era gold 400/600s.

The modern 400/600 is a fat and blobby semi-nail nib....a stiff one.

An even stiffer nail is the fat and blobby 800.

The 1000 is in newest a fat and blobby regular flex.....a somewhat older one is the Bock made nib that is semi-flex.....I do like it....even if fat and blobby....which being newer than now I'd not been looking for.

 

From '98-2010-12 or so, Bock made Pelikan nibs there were complaints it was fat and blobby, baby bottomed and stiffer than the Pelikan made nibs of the pre '97 era. Pelikan took the nibs back In-House from Bock.....and the very same complaints being made even today! :lticaptd:

 

You see IMO the fat and blobby nib and stiffer nib was designed for the ham fisted cross over ball point user who didn't have three minuted of time to waste to learn how to hold a fountain pen. A fat and blobby point allows the user to hold the fountain pen more vertical like a BP or RB.

 

Then someone said... :huh: ...and it did surprise me, he liked being able to rotate the fat and blobby nib...like a ball point, instead of keeping it steady. The round, fat and blobby stiff nibs was just what he wanted. :o

 

Well I do think the semi-vintage tear drop nib or the vintage flat stubbed nib give more character and a cleaner line.

 

Nice springy regular flex is '82-97,

stub...flat bottomed semi-flex is vintage '50-65...............yes there are Pelikans made before 1950....I just don't have any out side a Post War 100n&Ibis...which could have been made up to 1954.

 

Those nibs are @ 1/2 a width narrower than modern. The '82-97 have a tear drop tipping, the '50-65 are flat bottomed stubbed semi-flex.

 

Suggest you have four pens before falling into the semi-flex hole. First, it is semi-flex not semi-flex. It is not a flex/flexi nib....semi=almost, and that almost is quite far from superflex....where you get your wide spreading fancy nibs.

It is a pen that gives your writing natural flair.....it can be done but you endanger the nib if you over stress the semi-flex nib to make it a fat and wide Lettering Nib.

A well mashed Regular flex spread it's tines 3 X; semi-flex takes half that pressure to hit it's max of 3X..

Yes, there are some that insist they can and often do spread the tines of their semi-flex 4-5X....I would not take one of those over stressed pens as a gift.

You can have your nib pre-sprung just for you, just buy any semi-flex nibbed pen, that you see on Youtube or Ebay where. Like the picture.

I see the first quick fox as OK, the second as maxed, and those sigh...nib abusing X's as way too much.

Do go to Richard Binder's site and read his great article on metal fatigue. I call it how to spring your nib.

 

I have been slow often. :unsure: ...I write with my semi-flex nib just as fast as any other pen I have...... a number of folks were saying semi-flex writes too slow for them....for regular writing and note taking..

 

I didn't realize they were spreading the nib all that wide, when when writing/printing letters....which is of course a tad slow... :P .when drawing letters instead of writing.

The first set of X's is ok and the swirl is nicely done and with in max. That last set of X's is a nib waiting to be sprung.

 

AdtsC9R.jpg

 

In spite of that rant....of course I want you to have a few semi-flex nibbed pens....after you have four pens.

F&M are very good springy Regular Flex nib sizes.....both work really well with two toned shading inks on good 90g/24 pound paper. You need 90g paper or better to get two toned shading from shading inks.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

As 'noobie' I believed the gold nib myth.......there are good steel nibs that are as good as good gold nibs.....accent on good. Osmia steel and gold nibs are grand and =.

I also believed In-House must be best. :headsmack: :wallbash:

There are only a hand full of Name companies still doing in house. The rest of the Name companies use Bock or Jowo.

 

Yes a cheap steel nib is a cheap nib............one can not expect much on a $3.00 pen. I often wonder why someone will spend $7.00 on a Knox nib to upgrade a $3.00 pen when one could buy a $20.00 pen with a good Japanese nib.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Thank you all for yoyr replies! I do understanf there is good and bad, as well as everyone has their preferences. I'm still new to fountain pens, my first was a Platinum Plaisir (I didn't want to spend $50+ on a product I wasn't certain I'd like) and I wad over the moon! Then I got my hands on a Pelikan M150 and I loved it! Being that I was used to the stiff nib on the Plaisir I was very surprised (and happy) by the spring on the M150 as I am still new I still feel like even though I appreciate it more now than the first time I used it, but my appreciation is only going to grow the more I become experienced using different kinds of fountain pens and different types of nibs! I now have a Dialog 3 in Fine that I love to use for work documents and such, but for personal use (I've started using 90g paper) I love broad wet lines! Now I'm still learning, but I very much want to one day be able to give pleasant variation on my writing. I do also understand just because it's gold doesn't mean it's the gold standard, I do enjoy the TWSBI Mini fine for documents as well, and the Monteverde Jewelria Mini (I know this is in a Pelikan specific thread I hope I'm not out of bounds here). For now I'm wanting to experience different fountain pens and enjoy the experience while learning.

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M101n might suit you well. It is about the same size of M200, but longer when posted. It is very comfortable. M101n has a nice soft 14k gold nib, wet and broad. I have a medium, grind to cursive italic. It is one of my favorite nibs.

 

Pelikan 14k OB nibs in the pre-97 era are very good. It will take some luck to find one. If you find one of M400/M600 sized, it will fit into any M200/M400/M600/M101n.

 

Then theres vintage, which takes time and luck to get one in a good condition. I have a 400nn M and 400 KM, they are semi-flex, very different from todays nibs.

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I suggest Only, the '50-65 semi/maxi-semi-flex in oblique, in you get the stub effect also. Great line variation.

I have some 16 in semi&maxi-semi-flex.

 

I had a Lamy Persona nail OB that is now a CI, and sold a Lamy 27 nail OM. Some people are left eyed dominant.....or left handed so want to see the top of the nib. There is no line variation with a nail.

Modern obliques in a nail 800 or semi-nail 400/600 are nill, or even the 1000 regular flex; very well next to nil.

 

I have a slightly more springy W.Germany 200 OM and a small W.Germany 600 OBB (something that wide you are going to get a bit.... but.....well I have the real thing in vintage '50-60's pens of a few brands. No Cigar. If you look hard you can find a tiny bit of line variation.

I had hopes my tad more springy W.Germany 200 would give line variation like my vintage nibs.....nope. So really I had no hopes my W.Germany 600 would either.....hell sometimes I don't like being right.

Some not use to the '50's era obliques can be satisfied with a whisper of line variation.

 

I have a Pelikan 381, one of the '90's pens.....I didn't even know it was an OB :yikes: .....so it don't do much.

I have a regular flex 1005 in OBB ... :(

I am spoiled with my Osmia OBB's of which I have two. I'd have to look to see if they are maxi-semi-flex or semi-flex. Osmia is the only brand to mark their nibs to flex rate in that and the pre war era. A small diamond mostly with a number in it is semi-flex, a big diamond with Supra over it or just Supra is maxi-semi-flex.

 

I have an Ibis, 500 and 400nn in maxi-semi-flex with Pelikan.....luck of the draw. Had a real nice Geha 790 nib in maxi, that I swapped for a pen.

All in all I have in different brands some 16 maxi-semi-flex.

 

WAG, in Degussa the gold and silver manufacturer of Germany took over Osmia's nib factory for debt in 1932, Degussa kept making the two gold variants for Osmia, the semi&maxi.

Other firms bought gold ribbon wheels to make nibs, so could have ended up with what ever Degussa had ready to ship a gold ribbon wheel of maxi-semi-flex or semi-flex........cost wise would be the same, both were 14K.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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I shall be contradicting myself but at least it will be to the point (= regarding your question).
I have been blaming modern Pelikan Souveran pens a lot... or I used to - until yesterday. I have owned and later sold about 7 of modern (1997-2013) M800/805, several M400/600 in addition. I also used to have five M800 pre-1997 incl. 4 with W. Germany 14k nibs rather famous for softness and rare nowadays... And I would summarize it this way.
M800/805 is a well built pen - overall construction has been equally great since the very first day and indeed is still as great today. M800 is a terrific pen hands down. But the nibs. Nibs is a different question. To cut the long story short all the compliments to older M800 nibs are both fair and unfair (not everything and not always used to be that great). Definitely pre 1997 QC for the nibs used to be better so was the AVERAGE quality of the nibs in general, current nibs are a hit or miss. Most of my modern nibs were true nails and also most came misaligned (which is a typical problem with modern Pelikan Souveran nibs discussed here in many threads). And indeed unlike old nibs the tipping is usually a blob (not in case of EF or even F).

 

So if you want a 800/805 I very much recommend trying the particular pen first. However if you get the right pen you will hardly ever need another pen in your life. And the CS of Pelikan is superb.
As for M600 I am not a big fan of those pens, I prefer how sturdy M800 feels (but many prefer M600).

Edited by aurore

Seeking a Parker Duofold Centennial cap top medallion/cover/decal.
My Mosaic Black Centennial MK2 lost it (used to have silver color decal).

Preferably MK2. MK3 or MK1 is also OK as long as it fits.  
Preferably EU.

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If you're new to pens, it's best to go to a good pen store (rare these days!) or a pen show and try out all kinds of different pens. I would say the travel costs will pay for themselves since you will save yourself many internet order disappointments. It's educational and a lot of fun!

"If you can spend a perfectly useless afternoon in a perfectly useless manner, you have learned how to live."

– Lin Yu-T'ang

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have several M150/200 and M400. The gold nibs on the 400s are stiffer than the springier steel on the 150/200 (and also lay down a slightly wider line than the same width steels), not that I personally find that a drawback.

 

If you're mainly interested in the "look", the Anthracite also comes in an M405 that costs considerably less than the M805.

Edited by chromantic

It's hard work to tell which is Old Harry when everybody's got boots on.

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you have uncovered the treasure of Pelikan steel nibs (early in your pen experience it seems).

To my knowledge (but would like to know otherwise) only Pelikan makes (modern, still under production) steel nibs that way.

There are many other (modern) steel nibs around, but most are stiff or 'almost' stiff.

If you like the feel of your M150 nib, get a M200. I just love M200 M and B nibs... (F too but I usually prefer larger tips)

For springier gold nibs you need to search the vintage market, but as some have said, not all gold nibs have the same amount of spring (actually almost all of them have a different amount of spring one vs the other) so you need to test the nib you buy...

The modern Pelikan steel nibs vice-versa are very consistent in the amount of spring they offer.

(since M200 and M400 nibs are same size, you might also use an M400 with an M200 nib...)

By the way the OM steel nib is a discontinued size I believe, so hold on to it!

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Waste of money to get a 200's oblique steel nib.

I have a OM W.Germany pre'90 steel nib, that is a slight tad more springy than the '90-97 'Germanu' nib.

It don't quite do the trick. I had hopes it would have 'adaquate' line variation in it is slightly more springy nib.

Vintage which as far as I know is 14 k gold '50-65 stubbed, and then made oblique has great line variation. (I have 16 obliques in semi&maxi-semi-flex and in 15 & 30 degree grinds from '50-70 era in a number of brands....I also had Lamy nails in Oblique :angry:

Two tad more springy W. Germany nibs OM and a small 600's gold OBB. Again even the OBB just don't do the trick. Yes of course there is some more line variation but it is a OBB.

My couple Osmia steel Supra/Maxi OBB's are the real thing and the Pelikan a pale copy.

I was ever so surprised my 381 gold nibbed Pelikan was an OB....I'd not noticed it. And the '90's gold nibs are as good as the 200.

 

Why waste money on a whisper of the real thing? Get a vintage '50-65 oblique, it is stubbed, semi-flex, oblique and enjoy the real thing.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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